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Thanks, yeah rather than fix that one (though I kept the old part), I bought a new one freshly manufactured out of steel off of ebay. I did download the south bend books off the internet...need to read through them and find more lathe projects to make. Since that video I made a replacement pully and a hammer body/end in future videos. So far, for what I need (minimal lathe needs) this lathe has done great.

@@Dawna-y2c It has been a lot better since then, so it definitely helped.

At least it was fixable during the warranty....too bad the warranty periods are so short anymore...but with hardware issues like this, that is not a surprise. Glad you got yours fixed too....so far the fix has worked great for my neighbor...no issues yet since this got fixed.

So far I have made two successful projects on it. :) The pulley went the best, the hammer....made me realize why people hate working with stainless steel....it still worked tho and so counts as a successful project. There are wear issues that make it a slight challenge to use tho, ie the biggest is the backlash in the various wheels for moving the carriage etc. Still worth it I think.

@@josephkrug8579 I have one of these that I would like to do cosmetic restoration on. It works fine it just needs to be cleaned up and repainted.

Yep, they could have hidden it so you could not look down in to see how the mechanism works. :) Luckily they made it as 'easy' as they did so we have a chance to get it to work right ourselves. Just think of how annoying it would be to have to make an appt with some paid service to have them come change the sandpaper...bleh. This way we can at least do it ourselves. :)

Well the good news is it is still working so far for my neighbor since the fix. Hopefully it will stay that way.

Thanks, It was a lot of 'first time' attempts...especially with the stainless steel, so I am happy it turned out as a usable hammer. :) It is especially nice that I can re-use the brass head the original hammer screwed up the threads on.

Nice, I dont use it enough yet to warrant needing a drill for it, but that is a good reminder that it could work :)

@@gregbarber8659 Glad it helped.

@@StanleyRestall Well if u decide to grind on it, make sure your tables in front of the grindstones are square and measure often vs doing what I did. 🙂 I took a bit too much off and the result was not square.

And maybe carefully measure the hole it does not fit in...and make sure there is no debris in there. It could be it is slightly off in size in one dimension vs the other.

I eventually got it sorted and the hot water is way faster to heat for the new one. So this was a definite win.

Thanks :) I will know for sure when the m8 1.25 die gets here and I see if I can properly get threads on that new longer section. At least I have lots of aluminum bar to try again if it does not work, and it really did not take long to make that new piece. If this works I may buy a chunk of 1.125" diameter (1 1/8 x at least 2 inches long, probably 6 inches ) brass off ebay and try and make a similar brass replacement head.

Now we just have to see if I can find projects that will need this or not. :) But at least it runs with the new motor.

Thanks, I think I since solved that issue since the video came out. :) Good to know people are helpful though, I do appreciate the information.

@@josephkrug8579 you could also set the compound to be parallel twitch the bed rails. Would then allow fine feed when facing.

Yeah, the way those buttons work you have to be really careful with the table weight to not pinch/damage your fingers. One solution if you have space (I do not) is to leave them up all the time. Or, only use them for longer pieces where you need them, both would reduce the number of times you have to raise/lower them. Luckily I normally run somewhat shorter pieces (< 16 inches) so most times I do not use the table, but the times I do I definitely take extra care when lowering them due to the danger to the fingers. If I come up with a good idea to make that safer, I will make another video on it. But for now, just be extra cautious when doing that and never do it 'in a hurry'...or you may have issues as you realized.

@@josephkrug8579 I worked in tool and die for a few years. I was trying to think of a way to add a piece over the button to push it in. The ironic part is the sticker next to the button saying not to use your fingers to push it. Ok, what other options do they suggest? lol

Unfortunately with the flood of that in there, It is sometimes hard to find anything else on amazon.

Well, it all depends on what your error is due to....it could be just the heads which is not as bad a fix, but if it is what i found, yeah, new printer for sure. The issue was I think caused by the lady who owned it using office max cartridges which had at least once gone bad and leaked a lot. There are a lot of nice stainless steel shafts that you can harvest from these printers, like I did with this one. :) Good luck.

Thanks :) When I looked on the Little Machine shop website while trying to get the quick change tool post etc ( littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3593&category=2122081985 ) , they said that the mt-1 was more common but the mt-0 was a possibility. measuring it I saw it was the mt-1 size which I got. Yeah it could be that one smaller one is for the mt-0. Maybe the conversion that a previous owner did is why the tail stock gauge is not right too. Maybe i will be able to figure it out when I take that apart at some point to investigate why the handle/etc is bent and wobbles. Until then I will try and have fun with it. :) Without major lathe projects it should be a good size to help me learn what to do, etc. At least it has been able to do that so far. :)

@@josephkrug8579 Wrong. The 618 uses MT1. I also have one.

Thanks, when I saw it on either craigslist or facebook marketplace, I had to check it out as it had so many accessories and was a mile away. :) Yeah I now realize better that when it gets to the end it kicks out the tool, and that is good and better than it being stuck permanently. It is still possible that someone who owned it before me messed with something in the tailstock (still have not opened it to check yet) as the handle is bend and wobbles...And the other issue may indeed be all of the tapers I have are too long for this lathe. I would rather not cut the ends off things like tapers as that ruins the flexibility of the tool to use in the future for a different lathe...even tho I do not yet have another one I like to try and retain all the future options where I can. The one really short taper shaft that I had shown for the smallest drill chuck, doesn't even fit this lathe as I found out...when I tried it last night to see if the shorter one would work. I will get it figured out eventually. :) Especially with all the good comments people keep leaving on the various videos.

Thanks, I did try that a bit, but it didnt help remove the chips, ie they kept getting clogged then I had to stop, pull it back out, clean it off and try again. One other suggestion I saw was that my bits and tapers may be too long for this lathe...ie those end tabs may not be needed, or were for other lathes not mine, so they said I could always trim those off to get some of the extension back as well. I would prefer not to do that but at least I know it is an option.

Thanks, hopefully the rest of it goes well, otherwise it will be time to start on the second aluminum chunk and try again. :)

Thanks, I am glad I did not have to cut everything shorter to fix...widening the holes in the back and then fighting repeatedly to wiggle it into place was less work for sure.

@@josephkrug8579 He he. Not everything works always to plan

@@fredjones1238 The lathe will do up to 6 inches in diameter and 18 inches long. But even for aluminum you have to take tiny cuts, so keep that in mind.

thank you

Thanks, I heard from other people that 20 wt non detergent oil can also work. It is good to know the options. I know that you should NOT use the 3-1 oil from some people, and others said it may work ok, so it is good to know the various options. :)

Yeah I forgot I had one of those kill a watt outlet things, and those would have been more accurate. At least the fan which I replaced the bearing on looks to have similar usage though as the near identical one which has the original bearings. Thanks for the pointer to their store. Similar to the existing fan, the new one has a square motor block....and the new one is the weather shield motor...but just not the fans with the round pattern in the grill. So I will have to decide if I want to keep it or not.

Where were you and your super useful comments when I was working on trying to figure this out. :) So yeah the 9.5mm is 3/8 inches ID...and the 28.5mm is 1 1/8 inches OD....and those look to be more common and easily found. ie a quick amazon search showed this one which may be a bit too thick, but still is similar sizing: 1614-2RS 3/8“ x 1-1/8” x 3/8" (ID X OD X Width) That would take more measuring to figure out the width as i do not remember offhand the thickness needed given the spacing...and did not write that down, For some reason since these were 'modern' fans I figured they would be all metric and so looked that route. Should have done the sae sizes too. Thanks. Once the bearing dries out and cooks the shaft, ie leaves a burn/whatever mark on it, that would indicate the oil dried out. In that case if you wanted to go that route the shaft and collar would need cleaned thoroughly and then the oil re-added. Do you know by chance what kind of oil should be used? That would be another way to go for fixing these fans.

@@josephkrug8579 I have taken apart at least 20 various fans/motors with those type of bushings. There has been not one single case where cleaning up the axle/shaft and the interior of the bushing of any dried oil and then oiling well that the motor/fan has not worked fine. They aren't high tolerance bushings. Just a light weight household 10-15 wt oil. 3-in-one is fine....but...be aware...they do make a heavier 3-in-one that may be too thick.

@@brianroberts4349 Thanks, I heard from others that 20 wt non detergent oil works too. It is good to know the options for sure. As I know lots of other people just throw them out and buy another one, which I would prefer to not do.

Thanks for the comment. :) Yeah since then I had bought the solid steel replacement, and other than still needing to make a better t block for that out of the piece of metal that the little machine shop included with the kit I got, it works well enough that I am attempting the replacement pulley for my cutter grinder on the lathe. I learned a lot so far with doing that, including that I needed a thicker parting blade as the 1/16" one that came with the kit is too floppy. I also learned that it is best to have one hand on the back and forth and one for the in out wheels when doing work,as the play is enough that things float slightly....and cause extra cutting noise. The thicker cut off blade should get here tomorrow so once I make more progress and either have a working pulley or a failed one that I have to re-do, the video will get posted for that. :)

@@josephkrug8579 i totally know what you mean about all hands on deck when cutting, i have a lot of slop in the screws as well, but such is life i suppose. i saw your video on the new steel compound after i made my comment and thats a slick bit of kit for sure, but ouch at the price, i think at some point i'll take a shot at making my own but with t slots down the length rather than just the end, so i can mount other things in there. two suggestion i have for these lathes, one whimsical and one not so much, treadmill motor repower, and an electronic lead screw, the treadmill motor being easy to obtain for sure. oh and for sure the riser block to kick the compound ot the curb til you have to thread or cut a taper

Yeah I was lucky that it was within the warranty...I guess that shows if you buy a new tool, or anything with a warranty, test it thoroughly right away.

@@josephkrug8579 was working just fine until today that i needed to use a grinding stone instead drill bits, started wobbling non stop pretty ass response to "buy a new one look" just guess they dont make it like the old black ones

@@josephkrug8579I bought one brand new that did this out of the box. Dremel is ok for being cheap but if you plan to use it daily don’t waste your money

Yeah, that is why when I built the bench for this, I put so many side to side stiffener pieces in the top section. Same for why I put the multiple layers for the actual top. And I did screw a piece of plywood to the back after installing the drawers, but i don't know if I included that in a video as screwing a piece of plywood to the back of a cart is not that interesting in itself. :) Given the results of the precision level that i did in a different video, I think the top of this one should be fairly solid and not twisting much. the bigger issue is the garage floor slope and angle...sometimes when I move the cart not all the wheels touch which also means the cart is stiff as otherwise it would conform to the floor when I move it around. Good luck with your cart re-do as well. :)

Thanks :) As I mentioned in the video, when I saw it was a mile away with all those accessories....I had to go get it. My next lathe project will be the replacement pulley for the cutter grinder I got that will fit the new 220v vs 3 phase motor that I got for it.

Yeah that is making me worry about our 10+ yr old LG tv as well...it snuck in before the whole smart tv mess....and so I hope it lasts for a while, as the smart tv mess is not something that is fun to deal with.

Thanks, but I already solved this in a future video where I added an after cooler setup instead of desiccant. My problem is that I cant add things to the wall, even with things as small as I have it...as I have to be able to have the flexibility to also roll the compressor out to the parking lot if needed for emergency tire fill ups. That is infrequent enough, and not knowing where in the condo lot we will end up being when needing air, so it has to be mobile vs just a long hose. Also, I do not have space for a second movable standalone portable air tank, so I had to keep everything onboard the compressor setup. The after cooler setup I made definitely works...I have filled the tank from empty 3 times now and zero water made it into the tank. :)

Because I cut the end off that one piece and was tired of waiting for 'bad fitting' amazon parts I went to home depot, bought a 1/4 npt pack of husky fittings and used that to finish the compressor project...ie couldnt return it since I hacked the end off in the lathe (which didnt solve the issue) so may as well make it work anyway. I still do NOT recommend those fittings even if I managed to get it to work eventually buy buying extra parts to use to get it adapted to finally work.

@@josephkrug8579 I have a compressor that is fairly new, but after the motor packed up I decided to change the lot, just kept the tank. That fittings was a headache to match. He he.

Well I am glad you enjoyed it. :) Did you know that even if you buy one of the more expensive $1000 california air tools air compressors....that you still need an after cooler unless you want to spend closer to $3k to get an after cooler they have built in? Or if you have way more garage space than I do, you could buy one of those refrigerated air coolers, but then it is not self contained, and again takes up space I do not have to put it in. I did price out getting another air compressor, and for all that I use it, I could not justify spending $3k on a new compressor that had an after cooler built in that would fit in the space I have....so..I did the intermediate step and added an after cooler to the one I had. If I need a bigger/better air compressor in the future, this after cooler set of parts will scale up to the new compressor too.

The hose was listed as 300 psi working pressure....I figured that would be fine for a compressor that only goes at max to 150psi.

You can get runs of hydraulic line at Tractor supply that are preswedged with ends. They're rated in the thousands of PSI and temps well above any compressor. Like $50-60 for a 4-5 foot piece.

I did, I put he felt wick back in on both bearings before I put it all together and it is working fairly well so far. ie even used the jointer for a project and the oil did not leak out and the bearings did not get above 'touch' temps. The big key was the grooves to help route the oil back in vs having it all go to the outsides.