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Any normal DRO has a tool library option so I'm sure your BD-3V also has it.

There is a company that does make a front mounted collet closer.

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing the process!

Either you're single, or we need to hear from your wife on this one. $10,000 in tools, hours in labor, fascinating but why? We have to hear from her. :-)

Thanks for sharing your electriQ iQool video. I have the same 12000 BTU wall-mounted unit (with heating) and experiencing poor heating performance (only reaching 17°C max). Have you encountered this? Would really appreciate any tips on DIY maintenance/cleaning you've discovered, as the manual is quite basic. Particularly interested in filter cleaning methods or any other routine maintenance that helped improve performance. Thanks!

I have one of these and reading rhe comments if you have one that doesnt defrost rhen i think you have an issue. Mine periodically defrosts in the real cold maybe omce an hour. You will hear the machine slow right down ans back the fan off completely and then it will just hum and the sun light will flash. You will see it dump all the water out the drain pretty quickly and may notice a small amount of cold air inside for a couple minutes. It will then fire up and run perfectly fime happy as larry. Maybe as mine is newer it has had a software update ? I dont know but it definitely does self defrost.

simple and accessible !!! thank you very much with respect from Aleksej

Very nice, I love a Kerry drill. I restored my earlier version , for me they are the best drill for their size.

Hello! Great video, very informative. We are working on a similar CNC lathe project, but we are having some trouble selecting the right stepper motors. Could you please share the motor specifications you used and how you determined they were suitable for your setup? Any recommendations for selecting motors based on weight and power requirements would be very helpful. Thank you in advance!

Thank you

Thanks for sharing ,your article is useful 🙏

Another excellent video. Thank you Olly!

Hello Olly. This is great! Exactly what I was looking for. I just got a Proverxl 6050. I'm great with Fusion CAD, I'm clueless with Fusion CAM. Hold my coffee while a snap through my bits like twigs. :D

Thanks for sharing - the original, and the feedback.

Well done, that's pretty neat! 👍

Very interesting. Yeah you have me wondering. I’m not as clever as some of these people, but there seems to be vibration coming through. With mine however speed sometimes help as well. Slow it down ir speed it up. I also noticed that to pick up on a pre turned shaft with a bad finish isn’t easy.

Bravo - great explanation and nice solution.

Great job getting to the bottom of the issue and thanks for talking through the details

Well there's no arguing with the data and the result. 👍

Have you tried using the 4 jaw for the same test? I had a similar noise when parting using a 3 jaw but it went away using a 4 jaw. In my case it was a bell mouthed 3 jaw, fixed by careful boring with a Cermet insert.

Hi Olly. Thank you for sharing your interesting findings, especially resonance caused by the VFD. Thats something I would never have considered. Every day is a learning day. 👏👏👍😀

Well, that's a very interesting update. Who would have thought that the VFD was a big part of the problem.

Very interesting! I happy you could sort it out and share your findings!

Gday Olly, thanks for the follow up, amazing how a few changes in the vfd can make a world of difference, great job mate, cheers

Haah! I would've never guessed that. Nice bit of sleuthing.

Interesting. I have a similar issue with my ml7 if the belt tension is not just so. It took me ages to even think of it as an issue. congratulations :-)

Hi Olly, It's definitely not a bell!! You explained and demonstrated the problem very well and made a couple of cracking videos out of it too. Well done, have a great weekend!!

well detected Olly👍👍👍👍😉😉 try fitting a rear parting off tool post for parting off, you should find a big difference with the cutting forces in opposite direction, just a thought for you! see you next time regards Kev

Cheers Ollie! Thanks for sharing the conclusion! You've inspired me to continue looking into fabricating the offset / riser block for my lathe!

Good to see you back in the workshop Olly 👍 I was going to suggest (as have others) filling the toolpost void with lead as it's particularly dead and un-ringy and would add a small amount of additional mass, but I see lateral thinking has brought you the solution. The toolpost looks almost indestructible -great job repurposing scrap with the stick welder. @Rustinox has taught you well! 😂

Thanks for all the great feedback, but the problem is now solved. I changed the PWM frequency of the VFD and that has eliminated the vibration. It was happening when the motor load was about 50%. Probably the motor slipping under load and the control loop trying to correct. Maybe the PID values could be tweaked, but the frequency was the first thing I tried and it seems to have worked. I can now part off 42mm EN8 bar to a mirror(ish) finish. It was basically impossible before.

G'day Olly. Nice build mate. Sorry the effort didn't see the results you wanted mate. As others have suggested, try tightening the gibs. Addionally, I had a similar lathe back in the day and had to take it easy and not do massive cuts. Cheers, Aaron.

Resonance comes from parts flexing. Definitely not your belts, probably not your stand or hollow headstock. The stand could cause inaccuracy in cuts (bed twist), but is unlikely to cause flex, the lathe is such a large mass, that the resonant frequency wouldn't be that relatively high frequency. The hollow headstock is not a problem, all lathes have a hollow headstock. So long as the spindle is properly sized, and held (there is proper preload on the bearings), there shouldn't be any flex coming from the headstock. Most problems like this come from the carriage or something on the carriage - much more of a bottleneck as far as flex goes, than the spindle/head. I would get a DTI and start measuring for play in various places. Place a long piece of 25mm round bar, placed in your spindle bore with an indicator on the spindle nose. Then lift with moderate force (10kg+, you are trying to move any lube film out of the way for a moment), 300mm from the spindle nose, and then lower. Take note of indicated deflection. Much deflection here could indicate headstock bearings that need more preload, but not too much or they'll run warm. I would expect less than 0.01mm Similar test with a decent sized boring bar (or anything similar) held in your toolholder. Measure deflection at the toolpost, relative to the bed ways. If there's much deflection there, try to bisect the problem: 1) Measure tool relative to the cross slide then 2) cross slide relative to bed ways. Also look for anywhere else flexiblity could develop; tool holder to toolpost, toolpost to compound (is it faced slighly hollow on the bottom? That would help it have a good broad/stable stance) etc. Also try taking the same problematic cut with the cross slide gib screws fully tightened. If this makes a big difference, then this way interface may have high points near the middle and is rocking, or high points near the ends and is springing in the centre. Do you have a carriage lock? If you think about the mechanics of how most carriage locks work, they may stop the carriage sliding one way or the other, but if that scraped interface doesn't have intimate contact then you'll get this kind of problem. All the above makes a few assumptions: 1) you have a good sharp tool with good geometry. Easiest way to guarantee this, if you're using carbide is to use an insert intended for aluminium as others have said. Alternative is to sharpen one of your inserts that are intended for steel, but if you are not 100% confident with your sharpening, you can't be sure your resulting geometry, you are introducing another variable that might muddy the waters further. 2) Also I'm assuming your tool height is good? I know you said it cuts well in softer material, but you can get away with a lot in those softer materials. 3) Speed, DOC and feed need to be reasonable for the tool material, available spindle power, workpiece material, diameter, etc. 4) Oil films everywhere. If the machine isn't lubed, then you are missing some of the critical damping in the system. Sorry for the novel, you did ask! PS: Misspelled hollow in the title! 😂

Stop using carbide inserts. Sharpen up some nice HSS cutting tools and takr lighter cuts. Carbide insterts are for production machining on very rigid machines that can handle very high cutting forces. They are often a poor choice for hobby machining on small lathes! Use a low force cutting tool like a very sharp HSS tool, and smile. 😎

A solid tool post means just that, not a welder end combination of individual parts that will have their vibrational modes. Making it out of a solid piece of cast iron would be better. Whether that would help is another thing. I find that when looking at them, a lot of smaller Chinese lathes have the screws for the compound on the wrong side. They should have the gib on the tailstock side, not the headstock side. So many factors are involved in harmonics that it can be difficult to trace them down. But making sure all the gibs aren’t loose, including the rear guide for the carriage, is important. If the bearings in the headstock aren’t adjusted properly, that’s a real problem as well. Cutting at the proper feeds and speeds, with the proper insert, at the proper angle, or a high speed tool ground correctly, also at the proper angle, will make a big difference as well.

I have a smaller version of this lathe but it still has the same issues. Easy way to find non rigidity is to put a longish and thick bar in a tool holder and use it to lever the tool post, cross slide and saddle up and down to simulate cutting forces and observe any relative motion. Also do the same with a long bar in the chuck to measure flex in the headstock and spindle. In the end these are not designed for heavy cuts. I almost exclusively use carbide inserts designed for aluminium as these are sharper and reduce the cutting forces. To specifically reduce resonance vibration adding mass helps and your new fixed tool post has less than the compound one snd is mild steel which has less damping properties than cast iron.

I suggest putting a dial indicator and measuring the flex on the tool post with varying amounts of force in different directions. If you've seen Robin's videos, he demonstrates how much flex you can get from even what looks like a rigid setup. There could be multiple factors. Additionally the welded joints are not stiff enough as you'd like to think and perhaps not flat enough at the mating areas (as some have pointed out) making the chatter worse.

Make it out of one piece of steel or cast iron a weld up fabrication will just flex and warp under load I have done a similar thing with a jig in my mill the welded jig was large and solid but did not work at all.

Cross slide needs work, that's all there is to it imo

Would it be worth trying a swan necked tool holder?

Nah m8, just snag a chunk of iron or steel even and mill it out as a solid block... Fabrication and machine structural componentry never goes well... I would also move the toolpost more to the middle, as to have it and the tool fully over the cross slide rather than overhanging the ways(support surfaces) of it... I suspect that the weldment is just too flexible for what you are asking of it, especially being a 4 sided box configuration, the rear slanted braces notwithstanding... I know that it appears as if it should offer more than literally 2 cast iron pieces that are interlocking with but a suggestion of their geometry and some threads, but those pieces have more physical support surface that can back up sideways(towards the operator or away from you) forces of the tool, and only relies on the threads and maybe a gib-lock to mitigate the axial forces of the cut... The compound`s biggest weakness is the attachment point at the cross slide, as those are oft small surfaces, 2 pathetic size bolts and a semi-precision fit, round boss of sorts, but for the most part - nothing skookum - not like on the big lathes where you have 4 fat saucy bolts that clamp that shit down with the force that could split rock - over a surface as large as a man`s head with a chunky boss that is often almost ``bearing fit`` in it`s socket... A solid block will allow you to mill in as positive of a geometry as possible as to retain the damn thing stationary and in position foreseen by the design - from integral ``keys`` to potentially 12 bolts to lock that bitch down... Best regards! Steuss

It is improper english to use the word need and home workshop in the same sentence.

Wow.. a multi purpose chipping hammer!

Interesting... From watching other UA-camrs they seem to use a block of cast iron because it has damping qualities. Not sure how much difference it would make but very curious to find out.

It helped for me because there was some play in compound rest. I got old lathe and there is some wear.Its always stayed tightened on gibs. I took big chunk of cast iron and made solid tool post and that give huge improvement for chattering un cutting off issues. Maybe the problem is that you don't have a solid tool post, but one with an empty middle? Or free movement everywhere else

You need to remember the lathe is only small and not realy suited for carbide tooling. I spent 28 odd years working for SecoTools here in New Zealand and know quite a bit about carbide. All carbide inserts, unless ground to a sharp edge, have an edge hone. This is to protect the cutting edge and on shallow DOC's its a bit like trying to cut with a very blunt tool. Have a look at a cutting edge under a microscope and you will see what I mean. You could trying moving the compound slide back so the downward load is taken in the centre of the carrage and not on the edge which is trying to lift the carrage up at the tailstock end. I have a Myford lathe and wouldn't dream of using carbide. A good but of high cobalt toolsteel will do you well if you run at the correct cutting data. Hope this helps. Cheers Ian

Looks like a good idea. Very nice work

This was interesting to follow along with, thanks. I have no idea how you can improve this but I will be reading the comments with interest