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I trained on the Bailey panel bridge at Fort leonard wood Missouri I helped build one 3 times. I've been hoping someone would make a kit of this. Awesome.

White Sharon Rodriguez Robert Allen Brian

rail to the sleeper is the 'rail shoe'!

Your so correct with the base pieces for the track.

Nice one mate 👍🇳🇿

One thing I noticed right off. The 109 on the front of the chart house should be above the 2 windows, not between them.

Very helpful review. Expected quality like Trumpeter, but I can see there is a big gap between...

Did you have enough PE window frames as the kit needs 22 or 23 but there are only 16 on the photo etch fret!

Might need to use a picket knife to make it thinner

Great build mate!! The base is really really well done. I would love to see the painted bogey. Do you have any pics? I'm probably just going to spray mine black and be done with it. Picking out all the details under there in different metals etc will take me a year full of mistakes 😂

I know this video is seven years old but it puzzles me why you went to the trouble of actually using scale sized bricks only to lay them on edge. I appreciate that these bricks probably aren't cheap and you would probably use 3 times the amount but it seems pointless to strive for accuracy only to totally ignore accuracy. Your arches would have looked so much better with the bricks laid correctly as well.

Thanks for the helpful tips. Have you assembled the MiniArt track? If you have what brand did you prefer. Cheers bud.

Excellent...

Thanks, exact issues I found. As a novice, that was encouraging.

Suddenly decided I want one of these for my Karl.

I came to the same conclusion why buy what you can make for free.The tank traps aren't too bad I guess.If you are talking bad tank traps the Miniart one's are even worse dreadful.Nice video🐻🐒🤗👍

lost?????? broke????

When I build this I want the smoke deflectors fitted. Especially if photo etch is available.

like how the loco is coming together trouble with locos is there is just so much work to do on them

I love their moulds! I have roughly 21 of them from the 1/35 range. I'm from the US and for anyone here Iuse a casting powder called Perfect Cast. It isn't quite as hard as what Simon uses but it's close, much harder than plaster of Paris. I have 2 moulds for 6x10 setts and 3 moulds for the brick wall sections. Those are my most used. My first diorama with the cobblestones I realized I needed around 45 pours. And the wall sections are so much more convenient to build with when you can cast them rapidly. Being able to cast 15 in an evening with 3 moulds is much more convenient than casting 5 with 1 mould. Also for the one and a half brick section on each end of the wall sections and brick pier sections moulds I use floral wire as rebar, this allows them to be removed from the moulds in one piece every time. And it cuts easily. I mark the back with a sharpie marker so I know it's there. The curbstone mould is nice I also use it to make window and door openings for stone buildings. My next order will include a second story block mould and a second roof slate mould. I have a desire to do a couple of stone buildings and one stone block mould just won't be fast enough. And slates are a bit of a hassle so spending less time casting them will be nice.

The storm drain mould does have a high failure rate with casting plasters. The way I deal with it is to cast a lot of them, the mould uses so little plaster that I keep it ready so I can fill it with leftover plaster from other mould pours. I have loads of grates because they never fail, it's the frames that fail. If the frame mould didn't have a recess between the thick lower walls and the thin upper walls then frame failures would be reduced. Sometimes I can get the broken bit out in one piece and glue it back on to save the casting. I do all of this to avoid using resin.

Very good explanations thanks!

It’s the same kit of revell ??

магазины помоему не в ту сторону приклеел

AWESOME my father has a 1951 we think is the year

Excellent work 👍👍👍

Unloading over end of the line buffers..

Looks excellent credit due 👍👍👍

Excellent video simion so well explained .. im looking to buy the D9 when i can find one ..👍👍👍

ya didnt fit the hydrolic lines

Did you ever finish the diorama for it?. This model won 🏆 first in our show this year towing another scammell out a ditch with a missing front wheel! Really was a deserved award such a gorgeous truck! Wish someone would do the Falklands/Bosnia Bedfords and some Antars!

It's ashamed no model company gets the gearing the correct way round you did so well done for noticing that important detail the interior looks brilliant! I've got the kit here in the stash I'm thinking of doing next I'm doing the new Hobbyboss Coyote and both jackels 1 and 2 for a diorama then back to my ww2 stuff! Thunder model's wreckers out now to but after building the tank transporter it was a bugger of a kit! I remember but I wasn't for into my hobby at the time probably fly through it now haha! Nothing wrong with this IBG kit really not sure if the ladders are in this for the wee hatch in the back is it?

Hi very good video never use these nuts and bolts before now I do think you

it looks exactly like the barbed wire my fence is made of, as for possibly doing four barbs instead of two i have not personally seen four barbs on a strand of wire mine only has two barbs

Hi Simon Question! I see you are using what I call, WW2 barbed wire, but looking on a lot of online modelling stores its nearly always razor wire what I call, modern barbed wire where do you get your WW2 barbed wire from. Many thanks 👍

The copper and brass look nice but I don’t think copper and brass would hold up to the heat and pressure steam would put them under. They would use iron piping,and it would be painted the same color as the rest of the compartment.

I see it's an old video, i have a two questions about that bridge - that one kit can be used to assembly only one bridge, or two kits can be combined to make a longer bridge? And whats measure of assembled bridge (read: length and width - in inches or cm, no matter)? I plan to used this as tabletop terrain, so i'm going to ask. Thanks in advance.

Need to get the elco 80 the nicest one! It's beautiful the merit 1.48 kit is absolutely amazing aswell built both my normal 1.35 and the 1.48 the 1.48 was a better build better kit all together! It comes out same size as the British Vosper in 1.35 the Vosper being a smaller rig but still a big amazing detailed kit!

Hi, are you still building? Not seen anything for a while now hope all is well and still modelling?

A very accurate Looking , PT 109!☝️😉😁❗☝️

Hiya, love your videos.. but I have real trouble de moulding the wall section mould. The end parts keep breaking? I’ve used Vaseline as a release agent as well. Can you help?

Who is this bloke “Switches” or “Switcher” that you mates refer to?

Outstanding Simon!

Outstanding!

Would liked to see how the parts goes together...

Nice..... Thinking about getting this model but it scares the hell out of me

I'm looking for this kit now only for that dozer blade haha! I'm building asukas firefly and just this morning picked up the hedgerow sherman ill put the cutter on the firefly I've order 3D pri tracks for the firefly I've for masterclub ones from historx for the m4a1 it's that blade I'm needing I do have miniarts newer US dozer in the stash the yellow one that came out last year or year before I'm just wondering if its the same blade n arms I'd just need to make the hydraulic n covers for the front

Did you buy any upgrade resin parts for this?

Thanks I have been trying to find out the 1/35 scale for these! I made one just before watching this and just measured the distance between each eye and it was 15mm :( I did however put a ground screw on one end that I have seen on ww1 photos, it does look the business! TFS, GB :)

Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe