Відео

Experts say compact makes you weaker, I been riding a compact 50-34 and am always being drop by a mile 0r two by my ride group, many times on long descents,spinning out my 11 rear cog , changing to a 53-39 made a big difference, I feel stronger and more competitive, now to be clear am in Florida so mostly flats except for maybe some steep bridges and overpasses which mostly are not longer than few hundred feet, I compensated the difference with lightweight carbon rims and went form 32mm to 30mm tires and now am a rocket.

What about 7 speed that's on a schwinn ascension 29?

The # of gears and speeds is confusing. You say your bike has 11 cog wheeels on the rear? What about 21 speed bike? I thought 21 meant 7 on the rear and 3 in the front. A speed corresponds to a combination of front and rear cog. So how come you are referring to only the cog count in the rear? Confusing..

Finally a video I can understand

Good advice. Thank you. Thanks also for not using background music.

So the Schwinn Super Sport I bought in 1973 with 5 gears on the cassette and two chain rings is a 5 speed? The Schwinn cruiser I bought a few years ago has 1 chain ring and also has a 5 gear cassette. So is that a 5 speed? That makes no sense.

Compact is 50/34, midcompact is 52/36. There is no such thing as a 52/34.

A 50T big-wheel crankset is not compact. "Compact" begins with a ~40T big. Imagine an old-timey 3x but you just delete the biggest cog, THAT is a compact.

I want to thank you for taking your time and fully explaining how the gears on a bike work!!! I never knew what you explained. Best regards, Bob

I have two bikes where both have three rings up front and one bike has 6 rings while the other one has seven rings. Wouldn't that constitute an 18 speed and a 21 speed bike? If so, which one is better?

Very informative and self explanatory 🙏🏽

I ride 50,34 11-30 on my road and TT bike. I get a lot closer cadence and just feel more efficient. TT,s might be around 23-24 mph with a lot of gears left at 90 RPM. I have to chuckle when I ride past riders nearly cross chaining their 53,39 ego gears 😂. that used to be me 😂

Thank g

Great video. Thanks.

you spend much more time climbing than riding at 60 mph

mtb 44-32 (22) crank could be even better for hobby riding and hills

I used this video and others to decide on a compact for my look kg486 frame I built. I have a 11-23 cassette. I'm not a super strong cyclist, but after 3 years I find myself always wanting to cross chain the compact. The small chainring is too easy, so I always want to be on the smaller cassette or I'd want to be on the big ring on the bigger cogs. The 39 on the standard is exactly what I need. I went the other way and switched to standard. High cadence might be how you win races, but most avg cyclists probably prefer to bike at a lower cadence for sustained rides.

More is not always better. I just enjoy having more gears on the crank set because I can use the extra chain rings to keep a straight chain line through a wide range of gears with a relatively small set of back gears (3X6 speed for example). With added chain rings to the middle one, I would no longer have to cross gears to go to extremes. If my gear numbers were two on the right (2/6) and two on the left (2/3) and I wanted to go a little easier, I would downshift the left to first gear and upshift the right to third gear. That way, my gear ratio is similar to the extreme low gear in that middle range of gears and my chain line stays straight. If you have a 3X6 speed bike, you should only use low first to low fourth, medium second to medium fifth, and high third to high sixth gear. That gives you twelve gears that you can still use for some big range. NEVER use low sixth gear on a 3X6. That would be very bad for the life of your chain and the the life of your gears.

Great video nice information but i think you can get a lot more view by changing your video title to how to change gear properly or something.

Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)

Im so confused so can i use any combination befause what about cross chaining

FOR A MAJORITY OF CYCLISTS this is a great idea even changing my big ring for a 50T has made a big difference in my riding cadence and gear selection used AND l ve hit 55km hr on the flats using 50-12 its enough to make you feel like TDF sprint finish :)

I just started cycling and i only ride mtb and in my case i can barely climb 15% using 42crank 30cogs cause my weight 74kg

This was very helpful and well conveyed

Dag I bought a 9 speed bike for $800 😢😢😢

Hello, I need help. My bicycle came with 3 crank rings front and 7 cater rings in rear. so can i upgrade it to 3x12 When i try to buy rear derailleur most of said its work 1x12. so is it make any deference ? If i use 1x12 for 3x12

Video was simple and very easy to understand just got into biking with gears

This also explains why I had to spend such a high amount for a replacement chainring for my crankset. I was using a 52T but I replaced it with a 50T. $240 for a chainring? WTF. Cycling is getting too expensive. I think my next bike is going to be a single speed.

Thank you! This is perfect for beginners

Understanding an engine’s speed/torque curve predetermines a vehicles gear qty and ratios. The human body produces far less than one horsepower! So the speed torque curve is extremely peaked within a very limited speed range, I.e., your optimum cadence between 80 and 95. That is all we need to know….

Not even 2 minutes in and he already confused me lol

Mine have 7 gears in back

Thanks…you made really simple!

@cycle rider roy aisi video banao yar

chain rings small = easier but slower (uphill) big = harder but faster cassette small = harder but faster big = easier but slower (uphill)

Well explained, simple non-technical.

For me it‘s easier to rember when thinking about it this way: When the chain goes diagonally from lower left to upper right, then the gesr is hard because it resembles an uphill section. When the chain goes from upper left to lower right, the gear is easy, because it resembles a downhill section. I hope it makes sense. Just follow the chain position.

This video alone gets a Like/Subscribe/Bell

When they say a bike is a 21 speed bike, would they be referring to the front gear.... ..I'm planning on getting a bike. There's a huffy mountain with 18 speed and disc brakes and my second option is a scott bike with 21 speed and v brakes I'm cracking my head trying to find the right option, I'm planning on traveling at least 50km

Great job I just moved from my mountain bike to my new road bike. It's like moving from a bomber plane to a fighter jet. This really helped out a lot thank you! Cheers!

The only time I ever regret having a compact is if i'm going for a flat PR/CR on Strava. I also live in Washington State so having that 34 in the front is crucial for me lol lots of hills out here

I have seen like 5 videos and didn't understand.. you really did a good job and it is sooooo clear . Thank you

Moment I saw high and low range. I knew I needed UA-cam lol

Excellent video-Thanks!! DD

fantastic explanation

Jesus Christ, thanks for explaining it like we are 5 y.o. Very helpful to receive the info after which you won't feel dumb.

easier to remember inside gears easier and faster outside gears harder and faster

Have seen quiet of videos on cycle gears. Yours was the best explanation i have heard and understood. Keep up the good work.

I just purchased a BMC SLR01 that came with the Ultegra Di2 12sp with 52/36 crankset. I am coming from a BMC SLR01 Sram Red 10sp with a 50/34. I hate the 52/36. Why have 12sp if I am basically staying on the top 3-4 cogs when riding on the 52? I can’t use most of the cogs unless I drop to the smaller chainring. But I hate having to change chainrings so often. On my 10sp 50/34 I could stay on the 50 80% of the time and just switch to the 34 chainring on some uphills. Not the case here. I hate having to spend $ changing the chainrings or crankset but I will. I can go as fast as need to on the flats with the 50/11-16 gear ratio. I rather spend most of my time on the middle of the cassette and have the flexibility to go up and down without cross chaining a lot and not having to go down to the 34 chainring. In short, I agree with you. 50/34 FTW. Whenever I get stronger I may put the 52/36 back on it, but I’m 45 yo and I like higher cadences, so I don’t foresee that happening.

Best explanation so far! Thank you