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Thanks Scott. I hope you are doing well. I'm a bit embarrassed to realize that someone I know has seen my poor quality video skills. It's not so bad thinking that total strangers can see these. Are you (and your wife) still working, or are you enjoying retirement?

Thanks Steve. The layout of our house is based on the 1820's house that we tore down in the same spot. We built a reproduction of the old house that had partial cellars. One part had a fireplace and was used as a summer kitchen I suspect.

Thanks for your comment Sandra. If you are talking about my comment about clear cutting, don't worry, I'm not cutting the entire wood lot all at once, what Purdue was suggesting is to cut your way across the entire lot as needed, not selectively cutting from within the lot. This way the new tree sprouts get more sunlight. Thanks for watching!

😂The window was not quite as bad as it looked in the video, but it sure showed up in the sun. I debated making a new video for that, as well as the view of the road was pretty poor as well. I did get it sold on eBay, so all is good. Thanks for your comment!

Thanks for your comment, but no, this one does not work that way, unscrewing it a little back just loosens the chuck. Milwaukee replaced it with 2804-20 M18 FUEL™ ½” Hammer Drill/Driver. The chuck on this one does not come loose like the 2607-20 did.

Thanks Vincent!

Thanks Alex. I'd be interested in your results. You might find these details from Patent US4343787A of interest: "It is highly preferred that the solid inserts of this invention are available for use by the patient in a pathogen free condition. Thus, it is preferred to sterilize the inserts and so as insure against recontamination, the sterilization is preferably conducted after packaging. The best mode of sterilizing is to employ ionizing irradiation including irradiation emanating from Cobalt 60 or high energy electron beams. After packaging a convenient quantity of inserts, usually a single dose, the package is exposed to a sterilizing quantity of radiation. The preferred packaging employs sealing the inserts between layers of film or foil and then sealing or laminating the layers together about the edges. The techniques for performing the sterilization are well known and accepted, for example, as outlined in International Atomic Energy Commission, Code of Practice for Radiosterilization of Medical Products, 1967, pp. 423-431; and Block, Disinfection, Sterilization and Preservation, 2nd Ed., Lea & Febiger, Philadelphia, 1977, pp. 542-561. The required quantity of irradiation can be determined experimentally by testing irradiated inserts for viable bacteria. Generally, the amount of irradiation desired to achieve sterilization is defined by the D10 value. The D10 value is the radiation dose that will reduce a given population of organisms by a factor of 10. Based on D10 values, experimentally obtained for Bacillus pumilus, and presterilization contamination levels, a dose of 1.36 megarads is effective in obtaining a sterile product."

Hi again Alex, This is what my powder supplier had to say regarding my questions about sterilization methods: "Thoughts on sterilization methods: Unfortunately, not-one of the listed below methods will be suitable. HPC will lose molecular weight and the viscosity will drop. This will increase the HPC-inserts dissolving speed after sterilization. The higher the water content, the quicker the HPC decomposition. A very short dry heating could work, however considering the fact that it will turn VH to H (reduced MW) or H to M. The only sterilization method for HPC I know is by sterile filtration, but it is applicable for low viscous solutions only. 1. Radiation or Radiosterilization, Electron beam versus Gamma and their potential for crosslinking. 2. Dry heat sterilization (US Patent No. 5,229,128) 3. UltraViolet light, and potential for degrading HPC 4. Any other thoughts or suggestions

@@johnd.crofts7901 I think that's a bit over-cautious, typical X-ray exposure at around 25kGy will not meaningfully degrade cellulose. It will become less dense, but likely not by much. For something as stable as cellulose, you need doses well above 100kGy to meaningfully affect the material properties. E-beam is an interesting option, and it might actually _improve_ the properties of the product. Cross-linking will likely decrease the solubility of HPC, making it last longer. Anyway, I'm going to try both and get back with the results. Are you using HPC from NISSO?

@@AlexBesogonov Yes, Nisso HPC-VH

Thank you for your comment. I have already sold this engine. This engine (no Turbo) has a higher compression ratio than the Turbo version. The Turbo version also has increased fueling. My opinion was that if a Turbo was added, but the fueling left alone, a slight increase in power (CVs) would result, and would not harm the engine. If increased fueling is desired, then the compression ratio should be lowered. This is done by replacing the pre-chamber inserts in the cylinder head.

@@johnd.crofts7901 tank you

Hi Cady, sorry for the slow response. I would be happy to advise you however I can. You can contact me at johndcrofts57@gmail.com Regards, John

Dear jwhite, Unfortunately I'm not in a position to make any additional HPC inserts at this time. If anything changes, I'll be sure to let you know.

@@johnd.crofts7901 Thank you for replying. I just want to say you are greatly admired for what you're doing for your wife. As a fellow sufferer of Sjogrens I know how devastating and life changing severe dry eye associated with Sjogrens is. God Bless You

Thank you for the reply.

Thank you John for all your research and work. This video could potentially save my sanity.

@@johnd.crofts7901I’d be interested too. I don’t have anyone who’s mechanically inclined to help me.

Thanks for your comment.

Sorry, this was the only Renault engine that I had.

Thanks for your comment, but apparently a previous commenter does not agree.🤣

Our DIY Lacrisert are a lifesaver for my wife. Some are a little to big or small, but since B&L's are not yet available and so expensive, we will probably keep making them for the foreseeable future. I wish a generic manufacturer would take this on. let me know if you have any thoughts or leads for a generic manufacturer.

Here is a link to the Patent. We are trying to follow example four. patents.google.com/patent/US4343787A/en?oq=US+4343787

Amazing! I really need these inserts. Do you take orders??😊

Sorry to hear your experience, but not surprised with this model. You might try calling Milwaukee, and explain that you believe that this is a know problem with this model. 3 years is probably too long though. Did the drills just start this, or have they always done it? If Milwaukee won't help you, I would nicely tell them how disappointed you are with the current state of what was once a reputable brand, and that you are switching to Makita in the future, because Makita is real tool company that is managed by engineers, not like Milwaukee, which is one of many brands that are made by Techtronic Industries and run by bankers in Hong Kong.

@@johnd.crofts7901 Thanks, John. I've only had the drills for about 6 months so they are still well within warranty. When I wrote '3 years down the road' I was referring to the fact that it's been three years since you and others brought this issue to Milwaukee's attention and they are still selling drills with the same problem. I may try putting a different chuck on to see if that makes any difference - though like you I think that it's the very rapid de-celeration that causes the chuck to loosen. Even if I don't get the situation resolved, your video has still been very valuable...I know it's not only me that has this problem! :) BTW, I tried the 'backwards one click to lock' thing and it didn't change the time the chuck took to drop the driver on the floor. If I didn't have money tied up in M18 batteries I'd switch over to Makita....which I may do anyway, if I get more frustrated with the Milwaukees. Cheers John

$800 storage fee and it's yours Ed.

Wow, that's very impressive. I had hoped to someday repower something with this engine, but my priorities changed. I sold it to a guy with a LeSharo mini motor home. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winnebago_LeSharo

Thanks for your comment Don.

Hi Kassie, Do you remember how much you paid for a 30 day supply 20 years ago? The last one's my wife purchased cost her $543.50 for a 30 day supply. Also, what do you use now?

Thanks for your comments Kassie. My engineering background, and the fact that I'm retired (and having my wife as a willing guinea pig) made it possible for us to do this. I'm hoping to show that if I can make them, surely a generic manufacturer can make them.

I need those so bad

Wow, that is a lot of miles Luigi!

Yes, 2nd gear, and all others shift fine. Thanks for asking.

It may be me, as I have not driven a stick shift for many years now.

Sorry to hide this in the playlist description: My wife has dry eyes due to having Sjögren's syndrome, an autoimmune disorder, and found that Lacrisert gave her the best relief. It was not the $520 cost for a 30 day supply that prompted us to make our own, but the fact that Bausch & Lomb stopped production for two plus years. My wife's eye doctor supports her decision to use our homemade inserts. Lacrisert is a lubricant that is inserted into the eye to provide up to 24-hour relief from moderate to severe dry eye symptoms. We learned how to make our own by following example 4 as described in US Patent No. 4,343,787 which expired in 1999. This experience has shown us just how broken the pharmaceutical industry in the US is. This is the same company that was featured in Netflix's Dirty Money Drug Short, S01 E03. ua-cam.com/video/vDRaItqA8k8/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Gn2yasEmk8o/v-deo.html

Thanks! I suspected as much. I am an optometrist and a dry eye specialist. But also a fabricator, 3d printer, welder, all around inventor, etc etc etc. I.....dislike........big pharma with a burning passion. As you have discovered, HPC is practically dirt cheap by comparison to the finished product. @@johnd.crofts7901

Bausch and Lomb are big pharma evil. I have Sjogrens syndrome and severe dry eyes. It has changed my life.

Thanks for your comment. I sold the engine to someone with a Winnebago LeSharo.

That small makita looks good in your arthritis hands

I mean this is a known issue for Milwaukee that lots of people have had.

@@yurahbom, thanks for your comment. I agree, I doubt that I purchase another TECHTRONIC INDUSTRIES (TTI) tool (they also make the Ryobi and Rigid branded tools in addition to Milwaukee) Not a real tool company with management that cares about tools in my opinion.

Hi Martin, yes, Morton would have gladly finished the interior, either when the building was originally built, or anytime after. We saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves, and Morton was happy to sell us materials and advise us on how to do it. We purchased the wall insulation and plastic from Morton as well as the baffles to keep the blown ceiling insulation out of the sofit vents. We purchased the rest from other suppliers. Our building is 24' x 45'.

​@@johnd.crofts7901 What is the height of the walls?

@@martinneps9387 10'.

Thanks John! I have added a taillight since I made the video, and I was able to clean up the bundle of extra cable for my trip computer.

Hi Viviana, since I was not the original purchaser, L.V. would not offer me any solution. If you purchase one new, I'm sure they would take care of it. I did notice that Highland Woodworking has one that looks very similar, for a lower price. If I was looking for a premium one, I might look for a good used Starrett or similar on eBay. www.highlandwoodworking.com/precisiondoublesquare4.aspx www.ebay.com/itm/204241905546?hash=item2f8dc4278a:g:JxgAAOSwfjBj6UXo

@@johnd.crofts7901 hello, thank you so much for your answer, you are so kind. Wish you a nice weekend.

My impression is that these units are not reparable, just replaceable (at least by the manufacturer). I would push for them to send you a new one at their expense. I've wondered if the high failure rate could be an issue with environmental standards regarding releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere?

@@johnd.crofts7901 Great news they offered to send a new unit and I won't have to send the damaged one back to them.

@@over60crafter That is good news. Our 2nd one worked fine all summer.

Sounds like a great set up. I take it that the SL-XP5 is a newer version? Just guessing as it is a bit smaller.

@@johnd.crofts7901 They are produced about the same time, the SL XP 7 has the additional Case on it but I think technically their both equal. I read sth that the XP5 is the Younger Brother of the XP7 with another powersupply which Made the whole difference but I couldnt verify this either. I was wondering because the original price tag on mine dated to 1986 and I am actually struggeling getting the accu pack of for further information.

No, Homelabs sent us a new one. That's why I made the video, to show them evidence of the failure. Ours failed right away, but I believe that there is a two year warranty. The Amazon return had expired, but Homelabs took care of it, they did not want the old one back, as I assume they have had lots of failures. I would push them for a replacement, even if it is out of warrantee, as it seems to be a known weakness. They also wanted pictures of the serial number, etc.

@@johnd.crofts7901 tnx

Thanks for the comment Alexx! I ended up selling this on eBay to a guy in Germany. I cant believe the high price people (including me) are getting for these classic first generation CD players. It doesn't hurt that they were so well made, but not having the skip reduction software is a drawback if you want it portable.

Hi Red, thanks for your comment. Yes I'm worried that if I just start filing, I will make things worse. I have thought about milling it flat and true using a slitting saw with my milling machine, but again getting it square may be difficult for me. I'm mostly disappointed that Lee-Valley don't seem interested in investigating a possible defect, and working with their supplier to prevent similar defects, if that is the case. I don't believe that the founder, Leonard Lee would pass up the opportunity to improve their product quality.

Don't let them off the hook Jamaican, Make them upgrade to another model. Tell them others (like this post) have the same problem. contact them at www.milwaukeetool.com/Contact. They sent me two new (2nd one accidently) replacement 2607-20 drills, and they both had the problem. I used eBay to I upgrade to a Milwaukee Fuel M18 2804-20, and so far so good. I have not used it all that much, but it has never come loose and I was able to keep my existing batteries and charger. Be nice, but firm with your complaint to Milwaukee, and threaten to switch all of your future tool purchases to Makita, which is run by real tool people, not some conglomerate of brands run by bean counters. "As it turns out, TTI owns Milwaukee Tool and a host of other power tool companies. It also licenses the RIDGID* and RYOBI names for cordless power tools (Emerson owns RIDGID). TTI stands for Techtronic Industries Company Limited (TTI Group). Founded in 1985 in Hong Kong, TTI sells tools all over the world and employs over 22,000 people. TTI is listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange and had worldwide annual sales of over US$6 billion in 2017. Their brands include: Milwaukee Electric Tool Co. RYOBI - licensed RIDGID (“Orange”) - licensed from Emerson Empire Level Hoover Dirt Devil Oreck" "Makita is just Makita. Makita did acquire the Dolmar brand, bolstering its already-impressive line of outdoor power equipment tools. It’s pretty impressive the market share this company enjoys!" above " " is from www.protoolreviews.com/power-tool-manufacturers-who-owns-them/

Sounds like you have taken good care of your car and engine. I liked the wet liner design, ribbed for the diesel version. mine sold recently to the owner of a LeSharo RV. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winnebago_LeSharo

I'll have to check on the gauge. The ceiling metal is a deep rib type that is designed for the longer spans. 7.5 feet in our barn, and we are still pleased with it.

Hi Corey, Roof trusses are 7-1/2 feet on center, same as the posts. Sorry for the slow response. The ceiling metal has deeper ribs than standard wall metal, and is designed for these larger spans. Standard wall metal would sag on the ceiling, especially if it supports insulation.

Great memories! Do you still have your CD player? My wife bought mine as a present, along with a pair of Acoustic Research powered partner speakers. It was a revelation to hear such clear sound out of such a small set up. I only went back to old LPs and Cassettes in order to transfer them to my iPod, which replaced the CD player.

@@johnd.crofts7901 no, it gave up the ghost but I had it a good 9 or 10 years.

Hi Tobias, yes it is built like a tank. Sorry I did'n take a picture when I had it opened up to clean and lube the rails of the laser carriage. Here is a vintage review link: www.hifi-classic.net/review/technics-sl-xp7-510.html This one is for sale here: www.ebay.com/itm/255439026455

In the mid 1980's, early compact CD players like the Sony D-50 and this Technics SL-XP7 were too big and heavy to be true "personal stereos". They also had no anti-skip / buffer memory so you could only use them on the move if you were willing to "moonwalk" everywhere lol. Back then people used personal cassette tape players when walking or running and Sony's Walkman was the market leader. In 1983 Sony released the WM-10 - actually smaller than a cassette tape box. Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/vDBPSExEm8k/v-deo.html

It was built like a tank!

Thanks for your comment, and the video link! I had plans to repower a car with this engine, but never got around to it so now it is for sale. www.ebay.com/itm/255451810623

Yes Giulio! Please see my eBay listing here for more information. www.ebay.com/itm/255451810623

Thanks Thomas, but I don't follow how your comment relates to the chuck loosening. My video shows a #2 square drive bit in a Wera Rapidaptor, as well as drill bits. My bit adapter is shown at this link. products.wera.de/en/bits_holders_adaptors_holders_adaptors_connectors_rapidaptor_bit_holders_897_4_r.html The chuck loosened with drill bits as well.

@@johnd.crofts7901 oh ok my bad I didn't know the other info it's just usually when it comes to bits with the 1/4 inch Chuck I usually put them in an impact

You know, I cant remember the price, but Morton is usually more expensive than other brands and local builders, but I have been satisfied with the results. They also have a very good guarantee. They look so simple, but design details are very well developed, and that's what attracted me to Morton.

Would you be able to tell me what's the specs on the insulation? Like dimensions and r value? And perhaps whose makes it?

@@ismailgurgel , The insulation is R-19 and about 87 inches wide. It came on big rolls. I purchased it directly from Morton, as it is made to work with their 7-1/2 foot column spacing. I believe that Knauf makes it for Morton.