Відео

Thanks for the good question. I had 4 courses below grade, all the way down to the concrete foundation. Once that initial pour had cured, I covered it all with Nudura Water Proofing Membrane. I made sure the membrane went above grade, so that when we backfilled the trench, moisture wouldn't migrate into the foam. Then I put the siding up. I should have maybe painted the visible membrane black, because it is slightly noticeable just under the Versetta Stone, and below the LP Smartside Siding. I am not sure what paint would stick to the Nudura product.... maybe look that up! Good Luck with your build!

GREAT! But then is it not called a pole barn? ICF Barn? We need a good name for this style of Barndominium! Where in the country are you doing the construction?

@@basecampbluesky MN. Icf is the same cost as doing metal building and spray foam. Icf barn sounds great lol

Fantastic. Get it done! We will be up in MN in August. Great weather. But winter, watch my last video cautioning about cold weather with ICF's...

You! Finally got it into a video! And finally a good time to do it too!

Don't we know it! Maybe we can help rekindle the art of doing things yourself! Hard work building it, but loving it too! Thanks for the great comment.

Lot of work, but it was worth it, thank you!!

More than welcomed!

Thank you!!

Oh yes!

Lots of good thoughts. We live in a high altitude, low humidity environment. the walls were poured maybe 10 months before we moved in. I can't say we saw or felt the humidity from the concrete, but I for sure felt humid when the drywall was being mudded, and when I was painting the interior. Once all that had dried, it really hasn't been an issue. Our Ventilation system has a humidity monitor, and we are typically around 30%. I will see if that goes down over the next year, as I have read the concrete will take that long to cure. Thank you for watching!

Go to Episode 17: What in the world is ICF? I explain how I built all our window bucks there. Thank you for the great question!

Thank you so much 😀

Thank you!

Thank you for the good question. Nudura ICF requires their own waterproof membrane: It doesn't deteriorate their foam. I looked into a roll-on product, but it couldn't guarantee it wouldn't melt the foam. As an example, I marked where all the vertical rebar was to go in the first foundation concrete pour. I used a can of fluorescent spray paint, and it slightly melted the foam if I used too much! Other Brands of ICF may be more resilient, I don't know.

Thank you!

Thank you for watching! We did 3 wall pours because concrete is very heavy, and would tend to blow out the bottom foam if poured in too tall at one time. Also, once the concrete is in place, the walls move way more than I thought they would! Concrete, when poured, is a liquid, and the foam barely had enough strength to contain it! So bracing a very tall wall would be hard to do.

Thank you for the comment. All doors were pre-hung. They were shipped in two very well made containers with very good bracing. We had no problems.

@@basecampbluesky good to know. Thx.

For sure. But it is a large space! Over 16' tall inside the garage, plenty of room inside, not sure if we could actually use the attic space... Over our first winter we were no lower than 55 degrees inside the garage with no heat! 65 inside the living space before we turned on the Mini Splits. So far so good!

English please

@@basecampbluesky What is the name of this song

Thank you so much! Kenai is her name, she is a good girl, kept an eye on me during the build, made sure I was doing things safely!

You are welcome! Lots of paint and nails!!

Thank you so much! This one took a lot of time to make!

Thank you! Yes, lot of work, paint and nails... Even with 337 Nudura ICF blocks, lots of nails!

Thank you! Lot of hard work to get to this point! But we love the mountains!

Ha Ha! Yes, she wanted to know what the heck we were doing!!

Thank you for the thoughts. They are true 6x6's, with huge bolts into the concrete and 12x5/8 bolts holding the top plate. I think they look thin because they are over 10' tall!

Thank you for the comment. All the concrete work was done by the same contractors. They did a great job! One of the few things I didn't do myself. I am working on a "timelapse" video and will include how I found some of the sub contractors! Great idea!

Yup, so it will last a couple generations!

Sounds great!

Most all the video with my voice is using a Sony A7IV with a Rode VideoMic Pro+ with a dead cat. Sometimes I have a GoPro with another Rode short mic and a dead cat on it too. Hope that helps! The dead cats do a pretty good job, but not always with some stronger winds. but the VideoMic Pro+ does pick up a bunch of ambient sound, airplanes, birds, cars, etc. Sometimes I have to wait for a quiet period to record....

Thank you so much!! We love it here! Hope you are doing well too!

So Much Thanks!!

Come on out!

We love it here! Are you planning to move spots?

Thank you so much!

Thank you so much for hanging with us!

Water will always find a way in! But it came in from where the Nudura Membrane didn't stick, and ran behind the window seals, behind the window buck, and into the inside of the window opening in the ICF. Drip drip drip. Once the Membrane was attached all the way up to the roof, no issues! If you didn't have a membrane around the window, then the siding would be needed to divert the rain. But then driving rain might migrate in too.... thus my reasoning for using a rain shield siding construction technique.

@@basecampbluesky Yes, a fully adhered peel and stick membrane to the roof will ensure no wind driven rain finds its way in. But the fact that the water got to the interior means that air will too. From your "Spring Break" video I see you did the right things to seal the windows to the membrane. You did say that the windows were a tight fit. Were you able to get some caulk or Great Stuff in that tight gap for air sealing? For good measure, I think I might have covered the wooden buck entirely with zip tape just in case water did make it there. Of course if that wood got wet in some other way, the tape might keep it from drying! Damned if you do and damned if you don't! I'll probably end up breaking the bank buying foam bucks, cases of tape, caulk, and Right Stuff. ✌️

@@basecampbluesky This may have happened with your wood bucks. Watch around rhe 2 minute mark. Shrinkage of the concrete away from the buck. ua-cam.com/video/zcecO_ICsFM/v-deo.htmlsi=9AOXs7dn-NRenaYp

A learning point: around all the window bucks, I put a 3/8" thin piece of foil faced foam insulation behind the buck face plate, between the angle cut key blocks. There was no warping of the wood bucks, as the bulk of the moisture from the concrete didn't touch the wood. All the door bucks, on the other hand, no insulation was used there and they all warped terribly. Put some type of protection on the concrete side of the bucks! But I think the 2 x 12 pressure treated wood of the large door bucks will warp no matter what you do.... Thus using some type of zip tape or membrane a foot or so past the buck into the foam is a good thing. Also, put the membrane on ASAP after the concrete pour, so it sticks good!!

Yup, big empty room! And thanks, I did most of it myself, and we will be done in just over 12 months.... Not bad for a rookie like me!

The RV door is 14' tall by 12' wide. The wall height in the garage area is 16' 8" to the ceiling.

Yes all RV's have the sewer and water and power on the driver side. Just the big door sometimes gets in the way even at campgrounds where the power post or rock or tree might be around where the door opens....

Thank You!

Spring time it is. The mountains seem to accelerate the wind!

Thank you! Got a lot more coming, thanks for watching!

Big truck, Big tank!

Not sure if that would contaminate the foam blocks... Nudura doesn't like other manufacturer's products used on their blocks just in case the products make the foam fail. But, not a bad idea! As you could see, the concrete had a lot of rocks in it, and it came out of the pumper with a lot of velocity! Maybe a second layer of the tape may have helped too.

Thank you, yes a lot of work getting this Barn built!

Leap Day tomorrow! Yes, it is! Enjoy the extra day this year!

Not yet. Our power meter is on our shed, which might be a good place to start.... We are 100% Electric, so Solar is a good possibility in the future. First, though, on top of our south facing porch roof, I have the idea to place some Hot Water panels, to augment the radiant floor heat. But even with temps in the teens at night, we haven't "needed" the radiant yet. This winter has been warmer and dryer than last year!

My biggest "failure" was not doing solar conduit while doing construction, now it's all in front of the walls@@basecampbluesky

Darn! My thoughts were to put all the batteries, controllers, brains in our shed. But I also have some room in the Zip sheathing area just under the roof line to run lines if I ever were to put anything on this roof.

Yeah, makes sense to put it in your shed, DC power drops fast, up the wire gauge. I assume you have a way to get to the shed from the main building under the concrete.@@basecampbluesky

In a future episode I describe the one thing I missed in our wire feed to the barn....

That would at least keep the wind out! Not sure why I didn't do that! Duh!

Colorado has some great views, Thanks!

Correct! we have Nudura 4' under grade, with another12' concrete footer below that too. Also I applied the Nudura Waterproof Membrane over the top of the footer up to about 12" above grade everywhere, except where I continued up the wall with it around all the windows and doors. No critters in, but they still get into the garage under the door seals....