Відео

Maybe its a suspension component!?

@@asphalt_boxer Suspension component? NOOOOO, I have replaced: Front struts twice. lower arms control with new bolt joint. twice sway bark link and sway bar bushings. Rear shocks. Now I just ordered right mount and see what will happen. I will do a test with the car on and somebody pushing gas pedal in drive and in reverse after I put the right mount.

Not sure what video you watched, but my torq number came directly from the Kia owners manual and repair manuals. Please note in the 2010 there is an automatic transmission and manual transmission that have different mount locations and different mount sizes. Also there’s a 2.0 motor 1.6 motor.

@@asphalt_boxer I agree with you 100%. My is 2012 automatic 2.0L 4 cyl. yes, you are right, but your video says 2010-2013, so it means will be cover all those years.

@@HeydaCarreras correct, the method is the same however, the torque and bolt sizes may vary, for this video, it was done on a 2010 manual, 2.0.

Will do so far I am just under 50 K once I hit 50 K I will make a big update on any issues that I’ve had so far no issues other than the FPHP recall, I’ll be doing a big video on that soon!

It was because of the cold air, it was only low by 3 psi, which actually helps with traction!

Nope CT!

Yeah unfortunately since these cars are extremely light and have a decent tq/weight ratio it happens. But solutions exist

Yeah they made some mount changes however, if you decide to tune it there is still some wheel hop, but they have a replacement mount for the 2024 as well!

Getting wheel hop in my 24 in pretty optimal conditions at the end of 1st gear. Not crazy but definitely a couple hops

Power flex bushings!

It wont, thanks tho!

Stingers are great platforms too, If I had stinger money I would have bought one too, I appreciate the extra space stingers offer

For clarification, do you mean the o2 sensor harness or adapter harness?

Check out my page, i have had 2 sets of wheels already lol, these are the winter wheels

They are not cheap to work on, thankfully aftermarket support is coming back

Real facts! Most of them are sonatas and Elantra’s to!

Since I was running the JB4 already I didn’t notice it being “faster” however I did notice the acceleration is more responsive. Stronger at idle, and wayyy more efficient then OEM, im getting 30+ on the highway now

@@asphalt_boxeron my ‘24 Elantra N I saw up to 36.2 mpg sustained. With a high of 36.6.

@@Vffr1 yes its very possible, do you have any mods?! Also, what grade of gas?

@@asphalt_boxerNo mods, and I always use 91.

Thanks, bought it to drive it lol!

I cannot speak for the older KDM models. However, the new Hyundai have really come along way. You can see from this video and From many of the other videos I have posted on my page the progress that Hyundai and Kia made from 2010 to the current model years have made drastic improvements, Again, I can’t speak for every Korean vehicle on the market, but the ELANTRA Ns are really cool and reliable.

Really bad reliability. Oil leaks issues, engine issues…etc just get another car

Also insurance rates are horrible due to theft in these cars due to Kia boys and Hyundai boys

Check the Hyundai subreddit and compare that with another cars subreddit and you’ll notice the difference lol

@shawnn6522 lmao false

No issues at all, I went through Tire Rack, shipped with everything installed (tires, sensors, etc.) very happy with them so far!

These are called Konig Oversteer, specs 18x8 +45mm and tires are Continental DWOS 245/40R18

Thanks for sharing

Yeah Drive on!!! ENs are tanks but the internet doesn’t think so 🤷🏾‍♂️

Oh man, im still waiting for mine to do that 🤷🏾‍♂️

Yeah I work over there, its a nice road! (When its not being worked on lol)

Ok thanks

I must agree that the design is a little weird. I wouldn’t have designed it that way speaking from my mechanical background however, I guess Kia was trying to simplify things and avoid producing more threaded components.

I just finished up doing the drivers side arm. Took me about 2hrs and there was some WTFs, lol. All the bolts came out fine especially being there for 10 years. Definitely spraying them down helps. I replaced the Oem arm with one from Moog on Rock Auto. Everything looked good but the new arm did not want to get aligned very easily. With the new rubber that’s not compressed it’s a very tight fit and very hard to get the bolts to align back up. To make it easier, I’d probably remove the strut next time bc every time I jacked it up to make room for the arm bc it was hitting the sway bar the shock would make the knuckle kick out and pull the axle out. Luckily it would go right back in but it was a pain getting the sweet spot for it to not kick out so I could adjust the new arm more to get the bolts in.

This is a good question or something that I am trying to investigate currently. I don’t have any data or statistics that say that the NGS button is still an improvement to the car after the piggyback install, I do know that if unplug it orset it to map zero, there is a significant noticeable difference in acceleration and power.

@@asphalt_boxer Thnx I see what you’re sayin. And if I have to install that app on my phone for this piggyback, what happens if I drive and don’t have my phone? Will it be still in the same map settings as I left it?

@yoGmoney808 yes, if you dont run the maps/upgrades the car is pretty much still running on the stock settings. Once you set it to a certain map, it will stay on that map until unplugged or un installed.

@@asphalt_boxer oh, aight. appreciate u brother👍🏽🤝🏾

I promise you, these cars are solid!

@@asphalt_boxer real, fast asf and she’s also fun to drive

Yeah pretty much, once I Put the OEM one back on I was good.

@@asphalt_boxer ok my car just started having issues recently. I’ve had the solenoid for a year. I’ll try taking it off tomorrow

@zerodepth yeah honestly, I believe something about the Peirburg aftermarket engineering may not be as precise as the OEM part for the car. I still have the sixth element BOV on the car however I did replace back to the OEM solenoid and haven’t had any problems for about a 2K miles now.

@@asphalt_boxer hope that fixes my issue. I’m afraid to drive anywhere because the car will randomly stall out at a red light and not start back up for awhile. It’s frustrating because it never throws a CEL. I replaced the fuel pump yesterday hoping that would do fix but it did it again today.

Exactly what im saying! Lol

Driving, Yes one year, Why not, yes in this sports car 🚗 🤯🫶🏾

Technically on 28k miles, and im not worried car is still running fine after plenty of mods and spirited driving

That’s actually pretty good lmao, I had a Volkswagen gti , I bought it at 22k in January of 2019 and in December I was at 70k 😂😂 I was literally going on fun runs everyday for no reason at all, 1 hr+ drives of hammering it for no reason . It was also fully modified

@@thedesibanks1 yeah newer VW is nice af. they came along way too!

Pad is about the Same, no major improvement but definitely the same stoping power, the brake dust is significantly less!