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cantanko
Приєднався 18 лют 2006
Dog likes the car...
My dog Norman has a very strange affinity for cars. Once in one, he refuses to get out as he sees people driving away in them, presumably somewhere cool like a wood or a park. If you attach a lead, he'll hop straight out, but if left to his own devices he'll stay there all day...
Переглядів: 233
Відео
RX8 CANbus control demo
Переглядів 24 тис.10 років тому
'Blog entry: www.cantanko.com/rx-8/reverse-engineering-the-rx-8s-instrument-cluster-part-one/ This is a quick video of a Mazda RX-8 instrument cluster being driven via CAN from an Arduino Uno fitted with a SparkFun (purchased from SKPang) CAN shield. As much as people hate the Arduino, it's incredibly useful with which to do stuff like this - everything you see was worked out in a couple of eve...
Cairo taxi ride
Переглядів 1,1 тис.11 років тому
Shot in February 2007, this is a taxi ride through Cairo. I was over there on business, but we had a day free before the job started and hence we had a mooch around the city. Never had I experienced traffic like this, and yet somehow it worked! I was probably enjoying it a little too much considering how potentially dangerous it was :-)
Toyota Landcruiser HDJ80 1HD-T turbo failure aftermath
Переглядів 78 тис.11 років тому
This is a quick walkthrough of the destruction caused by broken compressor blades from the turbo being run through the engine. This engine and turbo had done 278 500 miles when this happened - driving home from work one evening, start to accelerate onto the dual carriageway then a big bang and lots of smoke from the exhaust. Vehicle wouldn't shut down as it was running on its own oil, so left i...
Celica ST205 GT-Four JDM vs UK speedometers and speedo converters
Переглядів 4,4 тис.11 років тому
I'd seen a couple of auctions on eBay for UK speedo clusters for the ST205 claiming that they removed the 112mph speed limiter that's baked in to most JDM cars. A couple of people had also stated that they thought this was the case, however a few experiments conducted with both the JDM and UKDM speedometers doesn't appear to support this. Apologies for the crap commentary - I was making this up...
Upsetting the wildlife in the ST185
Переглядів 21612 років тому
My new-to-me ST185RC project car / time sink / money pit has a few bonus features, such as bits of extra tree and couple of squatters that don't appear to be too pleased about being disturbed...
Yamaha DSP-AX620 volume control repair
Переглядів 54 тис.12 років тому
Yamaha's DSP-series amplifiers tend to suffer with dodgy volume controls after a few years of use. A lot of the time, people either throw them out or list them on eBay for pocket change. As the repair's so easy to do, I figured it was worth doing a quick vid of how to do it in case you come across one of these. They make really superb second-room hi-fi or home theatre amps, even if they lack ne...
Pratting around with high frequency high voltage
Переглядів 48413 років тому
Mini solid-state tesla coil running at a few thousand volts. Nothing big or scary, but still entertaining when you see what the arcs do. Worth mentioning that the various tools you see coming into shot are completely disconnected - not earthed or powered in any way. This is also the most ridiculous way to solder...
Honking great Tesla coil at Gaussfest 2011, Nottingham
Переглядів 1,3 тис.13 років тому
Phil Tuck's amazing Tesla Coil running at the 2011 Gaussfest Teslathon in Nottingham.
Eaton Powerware 9120 UPS status display doing trimming
Переглядів 10 тис.13 років тому
This video was uploaded from an Android phone.
Oil filter FAIL (Halfords filter on a Citroen Berlingo 2.0 HDi)
Переглядів 12 тис.13 років тому
I got a rather panicked request from my folks today - their car was spewing oil all over the driveway. With it being a Citroen HDi I immediately thought the worst, however it was a really easy fix. Never seen a failure like that before, though. This is exactly why you shouldn't be using crappy after-market filters. Full rant here: www.cantanko.com/landcruiser-80/maintenance/proper-filters-and-w...
Another Landcruiser HDJ80 (1HD-T) cold start
Переглядів 24 тис.13 років тому
Another cold start of my 250,000-mile 1HD-T powered Land Cruiser 80-series
Landcruiser 1HD-T big-end bearing shell change
Переглядів 24 тис.13 років тому
Quick vid of the destruction found in the bottom end of my 1HD-T shortly after I bought it. Full write-up of this is available on my web site: www.cantanko.com/landcruiser-80/maintenance/big-end-bearing-change/ BEBs going on these engines is a well-known issue hence it was a job I knew I must do, but even so I was amazed at how chewed up these shells were considering the engine wasn't complaini...
Snowy cold start of 1994 Celica GT-Four (ST205 WRC)
Переглядів 2,5 тис.13 років тому
'Tis the season to be cranking, apparantly, so here's a cold start vid of my 1994 Celica ST205 WRC. Nothing special about it as it's my daily driver and hence would rather it be more reliable than powerful :-)
Dakar 4x4 (3.9 EFi Rover V8) cold start
Переглядів 1,6 тис.13 років тому
Cold start of my Dakar 4x4 (now sold) - hadn't been run for a couple of weeks: under cover, but still very cold! Engine is a 3.9-litre Rover V8 (Range Rover running gear).
Stanton-In-Peak & Beeley Moor in the snow in a Landcruiser HDJ80
Переглядів 2 тис.14 років тому
Stanton-In-Peak & Beeley Moor in the snow in a Landcruiser HDJ80
Landcruiser 80 (HDJ80) 1HD-T cold start without preheat
Переглядів 10 тис.14 років тому
Landcruiser 80 (HDJ80) 1HD-T cold start without preheat
wow! doesn't look like an easy task to do. better to find the remote controller (even if it's now lost, I am sure it's easier to find than to fix that knob)
NGL for 11 years ago the camera work is ahead of its time! looks like something that would come out like 2022 or 2023
No need to regrease, after you cleaned it?
Depends on how "damped" you want it to feel. I just wanted it to work, but as the grease seems to thicken up over time I didn't bother.
Can anyone confirm this fix will work even if the remote control does not adjust the volume?
Was there ever a part 2? Bit of a cliff hanger! 👍🏻
Wondering why the turbo air outlet doesn't have a wire-mesh cover to prevent this from happening?
I have an HDJ81 series 80 with the 1-HDT. 160,000 miles. Your video has been helpful.
The beautiful background music suggest you are a pro video maker and know fuck all about the topic at hand.
Iv got the powerwire9 but no battery could you tell me what brand of batterys it takes it will be much appreciated thanks.
Thank you very much!
Ah very good, I have to do this repair on one of my Yamaha amps.
would you know how to be able to tell if a st205 speedo is rewinded and tampered with if you can how thank you
It's mechanical for the odometer and trip, motor driven via worm gears and so on in much the same way as older vehicles with a cable drive. To wind them back, they have to be physically disassembled and manipulated. Typical indications of this are misaligned digits, but it's often easier to buy a replacement speedo that's showing a lower mileage and just swap it out - no indication at all then that anything's been done. Given the age they are now (thirty years!) using mileage as an indication of vehicle condition is probably a bad idea. Unless you have something like MOT test history with steadily advancing mileage, just assume the odo is wrong and go by condition of the car as indicated by an inspection by someone familiar with them.
Wow, really excellent repair video. Thank you.😂
Thank you for a very good video. This is also a great opportunity to replace the memory backup capacitor. It's the silver and black component behind the VFD in the top left corner @2:43. It is a supercapacitor with a component value of 0.047F/5.5v
Thank you so much, I just followed your method to repair my Yamaha RX-V620RDS. Now works perfectly.
Thanks for the good tutorial. Had the same issue on my Yamaha V361. On mine the array was soldered onto the board but other than that the disassembly was very similar. Works perfectly again now! :)
What type of grease should we use? If it used to have grease it needs to be replaced right?
Thanks - I did all this, but in testing before full reassembly, I have to push on the volume knob to create better contact and make it work right. I have the volume assembly back together as tight as it will go. All the cleaning also removed all the factory grease and the knob moves a lot more freely with some friction. Ideas on either of these?
Wiping the "fingers" of the control with a paper towel as shown here probably bent them downwards slightly, even if by only a few thousands of an inch (this was kind of a brute force technique and I don't recommend it). You can probably hook those contacts with a dental pic or jewelers screwdriver and bend them upwards slightly. *Very very slightly*. If you have a set of cheap digital calipers with a depth measurement option you can measure the height of the "fingers" first as a reference and then bend them up just a couple thousands. The best way to clean the pie-plate disc and contact fingers is to gently polish them with a pencil eraser after degreasing them. Use a light touch and don't leave bits of rubber behind. As for the control not feeling the same afterwards after you cleaned it, the original silicone lubricant has a viscous consistency imilar to honey. It really wasn't necessary to remove the grease from the shaft and bushing, but if you don't have a similar honey-like silicone lubricant easily available, clear transistor-heatsink grease, or Teflon "Super-Lube", will work. Grease the shaft and bushing, and put a thin, very light coat of the lube on the pieplate disc. It won't feel quite the same as the original lubricant but it will feel a lot better than your currently unlubricated control.
I just had to rewrite my comment because a lot has happened since I posted my question. I found a killer amp at a great price and really wanted to give the component world of home audio a second chance. So, after getting my extremely high-end Yamaha find from a 2nd-hand shop, I get it home to find this problem we have here. I almost busted some very expensive speakers while testing. After watching the video, I got super excited and I found some "CRC Electronic Cleaner" at my local hardware store for $9.99. My model was different and for second there I thought I was lucky and they added a way to access the control from the front. Nope. You have to do it just like in the video. For me, I had to pull only 1 ribbon cable and had some extra lock-nuts to remove from the front cover but the process is exactly the same. It took me about 1.5 hours to complete because I decided while in Rome, I would clean other parts inside the unit. After fully assembling, connecting front A/B and Center channel, powering up and adjusting the volume control up and down. It was a beautiful moment that can never be replicated. Thank you for adding meaningful youtube content, I really learned something today
Just fixed a Yamaha HTR 5550 someone had left in their free pile with this, now it works great, so thanks! It didn't come with its remote, so I didn't have that option.
3 thinks, never remove the lubricant between shaft and case, it need to be dumper grease (if you remove apply new dumper grace). second, never spray on pcb or any parts (spray on cleaning tools), third, after cleaning apply new special grease (not bumper grease) on contacts. your method is leading to totally damage encoder and contacts. its like removing old oil from engine, cleaning and running without new oil.
I don't doubt that if it was under the same stresses as an engine removing the grease would be catastrophic. Thankfully, it's only under the stresses of a volume control and has so far lasted about ten years without any further maintenance😂 Having wilfully dumped various solvents directly on to PCBs and other assemblies over the years with no ill effects, I'm going to continue to do so. I think you're mistaking a £10 piece of ebay salvage for something that deserves care and attention paying to it!
@@disgruntledgoat this is unprofessional repair, and it should never teach people to do very bad job. learn about it before arguing. yes, you can do wherever you want but don’t learn bad practice people. therefore, so many failures we have around the world as uneducated people are trying to be smart. second, if that would not be necessary so the companies and factories would do the same lie you but 100% of production and educated engineers don’t do what you did.
@@Johny666EU I think you need to relax a little there, chap! You seem to be extremely angry about how I successfully fixed a ten-quid amp's volume control using random stuff I had lying around 😂 I completely agree with your assertion that there are better ways of doing this particular repair, however I consider them overkill and excessive in this instance. My uni tutor told me more than once: "'Perfection' is the enemy of 'good enough'". Does that mean you should do a sloppy or insufficient job? Absolutely not, but it does mean you shouldn't spend time and effort on something that doesn't warrant time and effort being spent on it, namely cleaning the crap from a volume control on a £10 amp 😁 The repair was effective, proportionate and has lasted longer than the original volume control did before malfunctioning, and therefore I suggest that both the method is reasonable and result is satisfactory in this instance.
That just sucks. Any update 7 years down the line?
Great, after 3 years HTR4066 volume works again. thank you!!!
Updates? What ended up being damaged? Same thing just happened to mine.
wich pins do you connect?
4:36 WTF? :D Great video at all. THX!
Cheers for the vid, very interesting. I have a JDM ST205 and just fitted the speedo from my UK ST202 but the speed is now reading far to low, which isn't totally unexpected as the box which made the KPH read as MPH is still fitted. I'm hoping removing this and just fitting the ECU cheat will do the trick. I was looking to swop out the gearbox speed sensor also but found they are different between the ST205 & St202.
just did that, it solved the volume problem on my Yamaha DSP-AX620 -- thanks for that! ;) -- but now the "set menu" only displays point 9 and 10, all the others are gone. this amp is a mess! :D
Even tho it’s not healthy it’s a 1hz you could get a fair few more miles out of that without a turbo the rings would be fucked and you would just have to keep topping it up with oil but if that’s like ur only car and you have to go to work with it I doubt it would let you down any time soon
Hey bud, any chance you could check if it'd be possible to control the climate control? Eg windows def, fan speed, and adjust temperature?
Didn't show the result, after repaired.
Brilliant Harry my old dsp-ax620 volume control has been bugging me for years. Didn't even have to strip it down. Just pulled the knob off and to the left of the spindle there's a gap(next to white block). Gave it a good squirt of Deoxit D5 and after a few rotations couldn't believe my ears and eyes. Obviously the D5 got in there and worked. Perfect. Many thanks Regards John.
Thanks Harry; this worked perfectly!
What solvent did you use?
volume problem on yamaha rx-v 471 ... volume level is fixed but there is no sound when i stop turning the knob. what do i do
Hey Harry did you do this because you had low oil pressure ,I’ve got a 1 hdt And right now having the timing belt ,oil pressure and alternator lights coming on the dash. The oil pressure gauge reads low as I have heard the main bearing wear contribute s to low oil pressure ...?..??
Hi John, This was all pre-emptive - the 1HD-T has a habit for eating its big-end bearing shells when used with high-sulphur oils, if I remember correctly. That said, the oil pressure gauge _ALWAYS_ reads low and the t-belt, oil pressure and alternator lights coming on simultaneously is another fault - electrical this time - IIRC there is a diode somewhere that needs replacing, but again don't trust my memory! Get a mechanical gauge on an oil port somewhere if you're concerned about oil pressure, but unless your big-end bearings are knocking and banging, I'm fairly sure your oil pressure will be fine. Get it checked out by someone familiar with the vehicle (like Julian at Overland Cruisers) if you have any doubts, though!
Great video. What type of solvent did you use to clean it off? Would you recommend a DeoxIt product to re-lubricate the contacts? Thanks!
Can we use kerosene or petrol
Harry thank you very much. I had this problem for many years and i was thinking of buying another one. But after following your perfect video the volume control works again as if it was new.
very helpful, thanks a lot. And no new grease?
I think he forgot that part. Also you could probably get the same results by simply spraying some contact cleaner in through the front panel/knob & potentially save yourself from having to disassemble the whole unit
The stuff I sprayed on was contact-cleaning lubricant. The grease seemed to be part of the problem in that it was getting wedged under the fingers of the encoder and causing a bad contact, so none went back in. Ten years on and it's still working fine, and that's longer than from the time it was bought until the control started to go dodgy, so I consider it the correct decision :-)
Yamaha parts were cheap back then when I replaced my volume pot. Now, as of 12/19, they can't be had!
Thanks for this! Had the same problem with my Yamaha Htr-5500. Worked like a charm.
so does that part need grease at all?
Not sure. I think it was originally added by the manufacturer to give it that nice damped feeling when you spin it. I did one without the grease and the control spun way more freely than the original. Add grease to taste, I guess, or limit it to around where the encoder shaft passes through the upper casing to regain at least a bit of the "premium" damped feeling of the original.
Hi Harry I followed the instruction. Clean the knob inside and put it back. The unit is now switching on for few seconds then switch off. Please let know if I am doing anything wrong. Thx
What was the point of the video? I’m an A grade mechanic, engineer and diesel fuel injection specialist. What are u getting at? The fact most idiots can’t build the injectors properly or time a pump. 🤦🏻♂️
Hello good Sir, I have recently bought an RX8 instrument cluster and I wish to control it via CAN from an Arduino. Unfortunately the cantanko link to the reverse engineering of the cluster is no longer available. And so I have no idea where to start from and where I can get the ID's for understanding and controlling the cluster, do you have any idea how can I access the info from that link or do you have it "stored" somewhere so that you could share it? Thank you very much in advance!!!
Probably :-D Hold please...
archive.org to the rescue! web.archive.org/web/20160729183040/www.cantanko.com/rx-8/reverse-engineering-the-rx-8s-instrument-cluster-part-one/
Man you are an absolute lifesaver!!! I did not have high hopes on getting a response, more so, getting a positive one so quick! I am extremly grateful and I hope this will help me in my work. I am a young engineer and I have little to no experience and I want to learn new things so I hope what I don’t get stuck along the way because sometimes things get a bit overwhelming especially when you learn all by yourself. Thank you again and if I have any questions I hope I can ask you in the future(related to this cluster). Wish you the best!
Great job,,but I just use the remote control volume,, works great.
The volume knob on my Sony HCD-CP1 stereo wasn't working. Turning the knob didn't work. It raised/lowered by equal amounts and overall sat in place. Sometimes when I tried to raise the volume it instead went and lowered the volume! I didn't have any cleaning solution or anything. So I tried simply cleaning the contact area with a household paper towel from the kitchen. Surprisingly it worked. The volume knob now behaves as it should. I hope this won't cause any problems long term? The CD reader was also having trouble reading discs, so I wiped the lens with one of those wet wipes intended for cleaning glasses. For the first time in years the stereo works. Now I only have to figure out how to fix the remote control. I tried disassembling and cleaning it, but button function is still erratic. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I don't know why.
Using an eraser (the kind used to remove writing from paper) to clean the remote works.
Something must of hit it
Does Graphogene (graphongen.co.uk) wash out as the oil flows through? or is it permanent
I would certainly hope it washes out otherwise I think you've got bigger problems! In all seriousness, as it's on bearing surfaces that have a high pressure oil feed, I'm guessing it'd be flushed out of there reasonably quickly. It is essentially taking the place of assembly lube.