Відео

Cheers! You sure can 💪

What kind of hardware add-ons are you thinking?

Check out the graph at 4:54 👍

@denstoj 👍

@@denstoj so roughly 40hp gain from cams, turbo, intake?

@@garethherman4074 yes, at the wheels with the limitations as mentioned in the video (fuel and ECUTEK)

Hey Beqa223, check inside the banjo bolts, which are located on the front of each cylinder head.

Hey Beqa223, check inside the banjo bolts, which are located on the front of each cylinder head.

Cheers Anthony! That could help a lot of people out. 👏 Please feel free to share.

Wicked! I'm not exactly sure what the owner ended up getting in terms of power and torque figures sorry. An upgraded clutch could definitely give you more peace of mind. Are you planning on pushing it further?

@ nah that’s all good man, I was thinking the same thing for peace of mind…I do want to push it further just not to sure which way to go about it. Any recommendations for a clutch? I’m in aus as well.

@zg2017 is it a daily with some track days?

@@denstoj not a daily, will be a mix of street and track maybe like 70/30 street - track

@@zg2017 If your FK8 is still predominantly a street car, I’d go with something like an Exedy single plate organic . It’s a solid upgrade for handling extra torque but still keeps a smooth, OEM-like feel for daily driving. In comparison, the setup in this video is track-focused. What options are you considering?

Glad you're enjoying it. Sounds like you’ve really put it to the test with that road trip. Totally agree-it’s a street-legal go-kart. No worries, your secret is safe with us. 😉

There are advantages to running a rocker design in the valvetrain which most modern engines now opt for. This video does into the differences if you're curious: ua-cam.com/video/93SlrE-aGwc/v-deo.htmlsi=DHSYbTDE8glf0GPX&t=152

I wouldn't say no to an ITB screaming K24 like @ChaseBays 🤷‍♂️

Hey Keith, good question. We do prefer to run on the looser side, 6 thou (~0.15 mm) for the inlet and 10 thou (~0.25 mm) for the exhaust on the FA20. Are any close to this? Guessing nothing else on the head changed and everything is in the same location (ie. rockers, valves and lash buckets)? Thanks.

No nothing else changed. We pulled out the oem added yours. One seemed really tight so we pulled out and put another in. All have some clearance but a tad on tight side. All of them are about the same. Stock they where a little loose, unfortunately my feelers are odd numbers, .108mm and .203 mm that I was using. All are a little tight now. I'm installing with cam carrier still on head since low mileage wasn't going to rebuild engine, l spent more then planned but your clips are worth the insurance. If i have to add clearance what's best way? Just let you know this will be a street car and hill climb car, no boost planned and my longest hill is about 2 miles long and track events are short time trial of two laps. So not too crazy heat build up.

Yes, definitely worth adding our retainers. That’s good to note that it’s not an extreme track build or boosted setup, but while the motor is out, it’s best to get the clearances setup properly. To add clearance, you could swap in slightly narrower lash buckets from your Toyota dealer (they sit onto of the valve stem). Another option-easier but less window for error-would be to carefully grind a little off the bottom of the pivots. Just take care not to go too far, or you’d need to swap in thicker shims at the lash bucket. It might be a good idea to test with your stock pivots to see how much material you’re removing when you grind. 😅 This is all assuming your current shims are somewhere in the mid-range of Toyota’s available shim sizes. Let me know how you go 👍 and feel free to ask any other questions.

Thanks, not really the answer I was looking for. This is going to be very time consuming. Trying to get this car done, it's my personal car, without getting too behind on customers cars. Might just have to run the miata another year.

Totally understand-fitting in a personal build around customer cars is tough. Considering the clearances are just a bit tight, you might be okay considering you’re staying NA and the motor isn’t seeing extreme temps so as long as nothing is binding and there’s some clearance. It's up to you. You could re-check clearances after a few heat cycles to see how everything settles but that again is extra work.

Thank you 🙏 it did take some effort to put together 💪

They’re not just any Crocs - they come with extra ponies, courtesy of Ben’s daughters.

Snap-on please

Next time, Daniel needs to wear pants?

No worries

One clip is 0.44 grams

Yes, true. In Robert Mitchell's case of money shifting, nothing is going to save him. Good that he admits it was his fault.

Ah yes, the trusty Denstoj Eye Chromometer™-accurate to a few squints and calibrated by "that looks about right".

Stop listening to that guy from Italy.

There is quite a bit of misinformation going around unfortunately

@@jaxomliambooomm

Cheers legend. I'm not sure what @DarrylSmith-r3p's Rallye # is?

@@denstoj #33

It's been rolled off the dyno rollers halfway for the chat in the video.

The GRY actually has a "2WD dyno mode" which cuts drive to the rear wheels and turns off safety features such as active traction control and ABS. This eliminates AWD drivetrain losses. Regardless, what’s most important is consistency across the tunes to gives us reliable results to compare rather than dyno-to-dyno as calibrations can vary.

Yep, jumping between the two. I think in kw but hp gets more attention with the US audience 👌

To clarify, it is 195 hp and 267 hp but it's at the wheels 🛞 😎 hence the confusion.

I’m not exactly sure how much of an increase in injector size ECUTEK can handle or how much of a difference it would effectively make considering the fuel control limitations on ECUTEK-a great question for Ben. 🤔 From a tuning perspective alone, I know he would have preferred an aftermarket ECU and upgraded injectors to fully maximize the GCG turbo and Kelford Type-A cams….but that can lead to a slippery slope with more mods. What are your goals for the setup, and how do you plan to use the car?

​@@denstoj your customer story aligns exactly with mine, and I have everything in this setup except I'm using the EZP instead of A kelford cams - the motec @ 8k AUD is just a difficult boundary to cross in terms of $$ to value ratio. My goal was to make 250 peak without losing too much on the curve, but we'll see if that's possible. I know my tuners been struggling to get me above 26 psi 193kw rolling dyno on OEM turbo, we'll see what the GCG can do; it's possible ecutek needs a bit more time in the market but I think this build setup could be a decent compromise for a lot of people. Thanks for sharing this series though - I think it captures a sweet spot a few people will want to replicate.

@@jaxomliam Ah sweet. The $ jump to a Motec is a tough boundary to cross. 250 kW is definitely ambitious, but with the GCG turbo, it should be achievable without sacrificing too much of the curve, just not sure if you'll have to swap out the EZ to the Type-A. A good question for Kelford. The limit you’re hitting with the OEM turbo is a pretty common challenge, and yeah with more time in the market this setup will get better with further ECUTEK development. Glad you're enjoying the series. Like you said, it'll a be a common setup for people looking to push their GR Yaris without going all-out on a standalone ECU. I'll let Ben know about your port injector swap question. Hope you're enjoying your long weekend. ☀

Yes the swap to larger port injectors would be nice, however I personally feel as a calibrator there isn't all the tools we need available *YET* to correctly dial the larger port injectors in to OEM standards. That's where the jump to Motec or Syvecs for the ecu will have its benefits at this stage.

⁠@@denstojthese guys can achieve the power on the EZ, they may need a little bit more boost but the power figure is set from the turbo not the cams. The cams only support the power, at 250kw the EZ cams are only just starting to work and would sacrifice bottom end power going to the A spec

Yeah exactly the troubles with trying to balance an ECU setup for both street-ability and track use. Trade offs🤔🤷‍♂️

Cheers! 🍻

Stock injectors all round.

Hey @Nishim0to, you would need to re-measure lash due to potential mismatched wear patterns between the camshaft lobe and rocker arm.

@@denstoj thank you! …so i would just be remeasuring clearances and making sure that they are still within specs. If they are then I can keep the rockers the way I have them? Am I understanding you correctly?

@nishim0to yes you’ve got it 👍

@@M0t018-y4y let us know if you have any other questions. Happy to help. Great that you’re giving it a go yourself.

@@denstoj thank you for your time and video!

Couldn't agree more! x2 🙏

Sounds awesome! Yeah cams would take it to the next level. Are you considering installing a set?

@@denstoj Run out of money 😛

The build never ends, just the funds! 😅

@Xristos-e9d , " it pulls much harder above 4000rpm"👏, I though it will only increase tq at low to mid range. Also, was it hard to installed? Thanks

@inwoodplace It wasn't too hard to install. As long as you take your time and be careful when fitting against the head not to lose the seals and then a little bit of wiring re-routing.

Thank you!

Our specs are based on the service information via the Capricorn workshop database that we have access to. Comparing them to what you've quoted, ours at Inlet 0.10-0.16 mm (cold) and exhaust 0.21-0.27mm (cold) are on the looser upper tolerance so I'd go with the upper tolerance of what you've quoted to always ensure proper valve closure and with our retainers there is minimal risk of a rocker dropping. Great plan. Do you mind providing the link to your source? I'm curious. Cheers!

@@denstoj Yea it's interesting! I've been trying to find the answer to what the proper spec are so I've found multiple specs online (videos, forums, other variations of capricorn, and talking to techs at the local dealership) while trying to clarify. If there was info on the internet about fa20 valves I read or watched it. There seems to be 3 variations. The second variation that I found was only 0.01mm greater on the loose side of the intake compared to my clearances stated above which are the most common. The third is what I noticed your website stated which is exactly the same as you have just provided above and which actually started my search in the first place haha! I saw your recommendation was different from what I knew and had to find answers!!! I have seen your clearance recommendation once after starting the search on a uk website but it seems to be the least common of the 3 recommendations which leads me to believe it may not be the most ideal recommendation. I would say on the hours of digging around the internet I've seen my mentioned clearances 85% of the time, the variation of my clearances 10% and your clearances only twice from yourselves and one other source around 5% of the time. I''ll provide a few quick links to different types of content with clearances bellow, I didn't save all of them as I went and I finished by the time I read your comment. Hours of reading anyways so I'll be glad to save you a day or two on the subject haha! Anything I found is on the internet and accessible to anyone else (other than all date) but I have spent about two days coming up with the info I have which seems to be that the most common recommendation by far for clearances is intake: 0.10 - 0.15 and exhaust 0.20 - 0.24 both cold for the fa20. I went back into the internet and pulled a few samples for your review if you'd find interest in that! static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10084247-0699.pdf www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146319 zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWIyZ2P9RvZszzJrj69n ua-cam.com/video/XSKxCUkdupA/v-deo.htmlsi=BFzwFoVirqL7TWec&t=440 Additional I've searched All Data which is my capricorn over here in Canada and it stated my stated tolerances as well. I was kinda concerned not only for myself but everyone else putting in some work on these motors including clearly your customers. I noticed you had a few guys that do race quite often repping you which was cool to see. The looser end of the spectrum is more ideal anyways which your clearances clearly favour, but I figured I'd reach out and let you guys know! Maybe I would be able to bring light to something that may require your attention being everyone that orders from your site WILL use your provided specs. Other than yourselves I only found this website that agreed with the clearance you provided: www.gt86.org.uk/forums/forums/topic/2229-stripped-engine-details/ I'm not at liberty to say for yourselves but maybe providing the clearance I mentioned may be better for yourselves or your customers. That's for you do decide but I just thought I'd kindly start the discussion amongst Denstoj! You guys are skilled engineers who worked for the big corporations and I'm just the car enthusiast trying to shim my valves :) haha. If you have an email that would contact you more directly than I'd appreciate it if you could share it in a comment bellow so I can reach out. If your not comfortable with that I could share mine instead, feel free to ask if you'd prefer that. Thanks and have a great evening!

Love all your detailed effort! We will give this the proper read and response when we can. Yes for sure, you can contact us at rockers@denstoj.com.au and one of our team members will chat with you over email.

Hey @deonesobord, Thanks again for the thorough reply and for sharing all your research - it’s awesome to see your dedication to finding the right specs for your build! We genuinely appreciate your effort to bring this to our attention and for providing all the sources you found. It’s true that there can be multiple recommendations floating around, especially for engines like the FA20 that are popular in the modding community. The specs we list on our site are indeed on the looser side, and that’s based on what we’ve found works best for higher-performance or racing applications, where extra margin is valuable to accommodate thermal expansion and prevent valve damage. Our go-to specs are 6 thou (0.1524 mm) for the inlet and 10 thou (0.254 mm) for the exhaust. This range offers a good balance between performance and longevity, particularly when running the engine at high RPM or under load for extended periods (and also easiest to measure with common feeler gauges being imperial!). We understand that the factory specs or more commonly recommended specs like the ones you’ve shared are perfect for many users, especially those using their vehicles primarily for street driving or within factory tolerances. However, our recommendation aims to cover a wider range of use cases and err on the side of caution for those pushing their engines harder, which is why it might differ from more frequently quoted values. Thanks also for pointing out the UK source that matches ours - we’ll review it further along with the other info you’ve provided to see if there’s anything we need to refine. It’s always good to have open discussions like this to ensure we’re giving the best guidance possible to everyone. We will update our website to explain both ranges people might find online. As for contacting us directly, as mentioned you can reach us at rockers@denstoj.com.au - feel free to shoot us an email with any other thoughts or questions! If there’s anything else we can do to help you with your build, don’t hesitate to ask. We're keen to see our retainers on your motor! Thanks again for your thorough research and feedback. Have a great evening, and good luck with your BRZ!

@@denstoj That was a brilliant response. I agree with you thinking about it. It absolutely makes more sense to run looser spec when you know you'll be cooking the motor and expanding metals further in a motorsports atmosphere. That's a topic I haven't heard a single person bring up before you have. Thank you for that and all the great attention you've given to this thread. It's well appreciated. You've genuinely helped me walk away from this conversation with an greater outlook for future work on all of my motors. I hope you found my inputs to be equally valuable. Have a good one man, it's been great talking! 😄

You’re absolutely right-correct valvetrain geometry is crucial to prevent rockers from popping off. However, under real-world driving or racing conditions, even with ideal geometry, higher performance setups with increased RPM, boost, or aggressive camshafts can still benefit from additional security measures, as there is minimal downside. This is why most modern engines with a rocker arrangement, like the BMW B58 in the Supra, the Lexus 2UR-GSE in the LC500, and nearly all Audis, run a clip. Curious to hear your thoughts further. Neat Evo III!

Thanks!

Cheers Mike!

Cheers Mike! Yes, a bit hard for us to work on your GRC over in States but we can ship parts :) Looking to do any upgrades?

@@denstoj I currently have a SXTH element intercooler and full custom aluminum hot & cold side charge pipes car makes 303whp and 310tq on mustang dyno. I don’t want to do anything else unless I do valve springs. What do you guys recommend? I don’t want anything crazy it’s a daily driver.

Yeah good plan, sounds like you’ve got a solid setup already! When you're ready for the intake and exhaust, upgrading the cams and valve springs would be the go and of course our rockers retainers ;) for peace of mind while you're doing the install. I'd say just drive and enjoy it for now.

@@denstoj At my current power level are the stock valve springs safe.

At your current power level, the stock valve springs should be fine for daily driving. However, if you’re planning on pushing the car harder or doing a lot of track days, upgrading the valve springs would be a good precaution. Do you know what the boost has been increased to and if the RPM limit has remained stock?

Thanks for the question. Correct. The cost and complexity with creating a range of lifters to accommodate different clearances is not financially viable especially on an expected low volume part like this. If you chose to offer a differing range of heights you would do this through shims. Not sure if you've seen the reply in our other comments regardless, happy to copy it here - We initially explored using shims to take up the lash. However, after working with machine shops on various prototypes and considering that engines using solid lifters would already be in a machine shop, we decided to simplify the product with the ethos, 'the best part is no part.' The goal is for most lifters to sit within the required lash range when the engine is set up. If adjustment is needed, it can be done by machining the valve seat, valve stem, or, as a last resort, adding a shim. This approach requires less modification overall, which we believe is the best trade-off. Feel free to ask anything else.

@edvinasba Ah, the golden question! The RPM limit will depend on the engine setup and specific tuning. I'll have a chat with the team at Kelford and see what they're expecting to see with these Type 2 cams and their KVS264 springs. We're yet to push them beyond their limit as it requires a dedicated 500hp+ build (hence why they're pre-order) so unfortunately can't give you an exact number just yet. Will keep you posted.

Great question! Yes you can move the shim adjustment inside the hydraulic lash adjuster, effectively converting it to a solid lifter. This would keep the shim captive, as you mentioned. However, this approach is more common in one-off, budget-friendly conversions. Since we’re developing a bespoke lifter for high-performance builds, we aimed for a more robust and stronger dedicated solid lifter. Given the constraints of the 12mm diameter holes in the head, it’s more effective to design a single billet piece of alloy within this space, rather than two separate pieces, for strength. For reference, the Tomei SR20 solid lifter setup illustrates this well. Their diagram shows three setups: Tomei's one-piece solid lifter, the OEM hydraulic lash adjusters, and finally, the less durable aftermarket solid-converted hydraulic lash adjusters. You can check it out here: products.tomeiusa.com/solid-pivot/643-solid-pivot-set-sr20det When it comes to deciding not to design the solid lifter with a shim, as we responded to @yourmotherlovesit's similar question, we'll copy the response here :) We initially explored using shims to take up the lash. However, after working with machine shops on various prototypes and considering that engines using solid lifters would likely already be in a machine shop, we decided to simplify the product with the ethos, 'the best part is no part.' The goal is for most lifters to sit within the required lash range when the engine is set up. If adjustment is needed, it can be done by machining the valve seat, valve stem, or, as a last resort, adding a shim. This approach requires less modification overall, which we believe is the best trade-off. Thanks for the thoughtful question-keep them coming!

@@denstoj Thank you for the thorough reply. I come from a motorcycle perspetive with shim and bucket valve adjustments being the norm and often. The Tomei lifter you linked was the exact design I was thinking about but I wasn't aware it was a thing already. Thank you for providing that info.

@@BBowerr No worries. You’re welcome! Ah yep, shim and bucket setups are common in motorcycle engines and are known to pop out at the higher rpms they're pushing like you're mentioned...unless they're Ducati's desmodromic 😎 Glad I could provide the info you were looking for! If you have any more questions or ideas, feel free to share. Always happy to chat about this stuff.

At 108Nm, you’re correct that it’s not in the range where significant bolt stretch occurs like in some higher torque applications. However, even at this torque, we prefer (and as per the specs) to ensure proper thread lubrication by using the grease provided. Thanks again for the question.

You're right-torque specs are usually given for dry threads unless specified otherwise. We prefer to use oil or grease to prevent thread galling and ensure consistent torque. On these head studs, they recommend using 30W oil on the thread that goes into the block. Thanks for the great question.

Thanks for the support. Yes, when designing them, we explored running shims. It was our first solution to take up the lash, however, after working with machine shops with different prototypes and taking into consideration that engines that solid lifters are targeted at would already be going to a machine shop, we decided to the simplify the product with the ethos, "the best part is no part" 😎. The intention is, when the engine is being setup by the machine shop, most lifters will sit within the required lash range. Only if required, adjustment can be made by either machining the valve seat, valve steam or worst case as you mentioned adding a shim. Overall, this requires less modification. Yes, it's a trade-off we had to decide on. Have you got a GR Yaris or GR Corolla?

@@denstoj easy as. Makes sense. Yeah I have a 2022 yaris rallye

@@yourmotherlovesit Awesome. How far have you fallen into the modding black hole?

@@denstoj just Lowered seat rails and steering wheel spacer so I fit in at the moment.

@@yourmotherlovesit sounds like you're safe...for now

What parts do you have to reinforce the engine?

@@jherjames.bisconde We specialise in Rocker Retainers and don't make any other parts that improve the G16E engine's ability to handle higher power/RPM. What are you planning on doing?

220kw at the wheels but the tune is still being worked on. It’s not a big rush for the customer so Ben from Benchmark is working on it when he has time.

I thought that was the reason this video hasn’t got so many views! The next one will be :)

@@denstoj i'm in the states and i have a gr corolla so im interested in seeing the capability of the platform

@jadalaspablo3695 awesome. How long have you had it for?

Yes, fuel system could definitely be a limitation. Tune is still a work in progress but will keep you updated with a video when it’s ready.

@@denstoj hi there, has this been tuned ?

@2bcort Sure has 🙌 Video edit is in progress. Aiming to release this weekend. Stay tuned for the run down. 💪

​@@2bcort ready for upload tomorrow morning 👌

Thanks for your detailed comment! Since we’ve added several mods at once, we unfortunately can’t provide a back-to-back comparison for just the Weldspeed intake plenum. However, @mercywing2 in the comments below might have more specific insights. I’m also curious about how it performs across the rev range. 🤔He has mentioned it pulls like a freight train from 4k to redline. Once we get more time with the setup, I’ll share what I can regarding both low and high RPMs but it will be with all the mods. Stay tuned!

@@denstoj Thank you !! Also weldspeed avoids publishing any dyno graphs or number claims, it just says generally thay improves power/torque and that torque comes earlier in the rev range. I sucpect that pic dyno numbers are the same, but power/torque curves are different - power/torque pic comes earlier in rev range which is good.