Відео

I own the very same mini. Kx-41H The h is silent, haha I guess it stands for home model. I like your video, well done. I'm planning to get some slop out of mine, this winter. Good luck.👍

I'd rebuild that IDI.

Steal if it didn’t run and move you can’t touch anything like that near me for $4K-$5k at least

I noticed the alternator belt is loose..got to watch it doesn't stop changing or it starts over heating because that belt runs the water pump too

For 1000€, if you got tools and time to fix all, it seems an ok price, nor a fail nor a steal.

I'm looking for a used excavator znd ran into a 6000€ KX91 (3200kg) seller said it was 5000 hours but it was not in my opinion. A lot of black exhaust and as much pressure as from the exhaust coming from the cranck case, was a 4 cylinders. The right track engine did not want to turn (maybe not a motor problem, more likely a drawer one) and then..the turret had a lot of play. Even for that price, i left it, the guy lied and i do not want any other surprises.

hey man ebay has a replacement foam and cover that looks oem you use your pan though and need to staple it on KUBOTA seat back cushions KX61 KX71 KX91-3 PVC KUBOTA JOHN DEERE it is less than 200 so i found it to help you out some hope it works out nice machine when fixed up

Mine actually has the extendable bucket extendable arm.

I am wondering why you have the extra fan attached, would that be to help cool the motor or the hydraulics? seem to have an issue with my hydraulic oil getting to hot that I am trying to resolve.

I have a KX101 that I recently bought. These machines are very hard to find but in good shape they are some of the best minis made I believe. I have had the same problems with the return line and the best money spent is to get a quality fuel line or it will always be a problem in many ways.

Can not best those Kubotas

fan belt is junk

Is that a jd 430 I see 😍 hope u make a vid on it

I love that mini

Sweet

That crashbox was worth 8 bones on its own what a deal . I want to put a 466 and a 10 speed in mine one day

Imagine a fresh maroon paint job, polished chrome and running boards, fresh painted frame and running gear. Dt360 conversion?

Very detailed step-by-step weedeater repairing tutorial. Thanks for sharing!

That's the weakest impact i've ever seen!!

Nice! I need to get some of my chainsaws and weed eaters going, hey we’re did you find that letter style that you used in your thumbnail picture? I wanna use the same but can’t find it

Thats a smooth runner

Great work,new subscriber here 👍🏿

Great tip I was thinking putting a rubber cover over the top to keep water and dirt out

Good job getting it running and field repairs. The TO20s 3 point only works when the PTO is spinning, best to get a PTO sleeve cover for safety. I invested in the Harbor Freight small "$75" ultrasonic cleaner recently because one of my Ferguson carbs idle passages was too packed to run well (I have three TO35 Fergusons since the parts tractor I got with another one is running now). The carb halves easily fit in there open sides down. Bundy Bears youtube channel has a video setting the governor after you do the carb clean. When you get it running, do a rattle can refin, that's what I did when I got the family heirloom running, so as not to frighten the (non--farm neighbors when out doing snow and field work.

I have a gen set and I use a vacuum pump to remove the old oil rather than drain. try that it will solve that problem.

I’d prolly add a lil cast weight in the front and make the front wheels at more of a angle so they don’t go crazy, but awesome job on the build

Man that’s actually really impressive!! That bottom pulley is the same pulley that’s on my Steiner deck

Love them diesel videos!

I'm 64 yrs old. Iv been working on small engines since I was 11. Never seen a shaft adapter kit before. Never too old to learn.lol.thanks .Good luck growing your channel!

Awesome video. I actually bought one of those shaft adapters a couple months ago for a Gravely that I did an engine swap to. Been working good ever since.

Why have you not made a video on that kubota mini ex??!! Please do one on it, I guarantee you it will be your most viewed video

I'll send it in Facebook messenger. What's the channels Facebook? It says it's in Franklinton.

Are you going to do an autopsy on the Kawasaki?

Hey man do you have a Facebook? I noticed you are in Louisiana and I am too. The point is I found a cheap 7.3 idi on marketplace that would make a great will it run video. I saw it and thought of your channel. Keep the videos coming!

Beat a bearing on you have to beat the bearing back off !

oh another tip. look for a small time local saw mill guy and get some nice rough sawn oak boards for that pj trailer. soak 'em in used motor oil and then linseed oil them after the sun bakes them dry the oil will water repel and dry rot repel and the linseed will seal it in on the surface.

29:00 not sure lucas red and tacky is good for high speed bearings. my dad was a powerline heavy equipment operator and he always said high speed white lithium was best for highway wheel bearings. i have a similar 16' tandem car trailer 8,000# H&S brand with dual electric brakes, so that's the only reason i mention this. i'd recommend redoing the grease as those things get super duper near glowing hot with regular grease. but hey, i'd slap on some bearing buddy caps so i could add new grease when ever with the grease gun and give that a try, for awhile. good video by the way. smart man, hope you go far in life to enjoy it the way you want to.

Fark! My Kawasaki 691 died in one cylinder about the same hours, it was a dumb-ass design fault, broken push rod. Kawasaki used 3/16” diameter pushed rods, replaced with upgraded one’s available from Kawasaki, clearly they recognised their fark-up.

i found a better way to secure new planks to the trailer. mild steel flat bar 2&1/2" (or 3") 3/8ths on the underside with lengths the width of the trailers decking +/- 1" (this can vary if you have c channel or 4 sided tubing side deck frame). get your boards all laid out ready to be secured on the trailer as it is parked on a concrete slab (you will want a mechanics creeper), you're going to want a mechanics creeper for this and safety glasses due to the rust and peeling/chipping paint and other debris. lay your flat iron out on top and with white/yellow paint pen, or welders chalk if you can keep from rubbing it off; make your 2 marks for each plank where you want your fasteners @1&1/4" from one edge side of the flat bar, doesn't matter which side(you'll be able to flip them over later on to secure them which ever way required),****for**** 3" carriage bolts or 1&3/4" lag bolts (you will be subtracting 3/8" from the length for passing thru the flat bar) then check with i-beam cross braces for the deck side that can have flat bar span across them on 1 edge of the upper part of the i-beam with out interference you want atleast half of. (might be a couple/few cross beams you can't that's fine only needs the majority of them, not every single one) drill out your holes on the flat bar marks for the next drill bit size up from the size or two of your carriage bolts or lag screws (recommend menards box store/made in america lag screws, home repot chinesium snaps off at the heads and almost cost me the loss of one of my hands, they also killed alot of people at deck barbecue parties when they broke, like the chicago spree) *** for the lag screws going into 2X*** you need a stand alone drill with the 1/4' drill bit ( the just under 1 size of the screws center shank width) with a stop at 1" depth if these are 2X other wise 50% of what ever the material is, is a good approximation for the drill bit stopper. ***for the carriage bolts*** no stopper is required and use a drill bit that will penetrate both the flat bar hole and the deck replacement planks that is atleast 1 size larger than the carriage bolt you are using to fasten the new deck you will need atleast 4 extra screws with semi wider heads than shanks, sheet rock screws at the minimum and atleast 4 washers to make the heads surface area a little wider. these will support the flat bar once it is in place on the underside of the decking so you can drill your holes out in the deck planks from the holes in the flat bar. with the flat bar you are going to overlap the top plate of the i-beam by atleast 1/2", you want the flat bar holes on the opposite side of the i-beams center beam. atleast 50% of the flat bars should be mounted on the nose of the trailer side of the i-beams and 50% on the tail end side of the trailer i-beams (just one side of the ibeam, not both, that's way over kill and will lead to problems every time a lank shifts for what ever reason: load/weather/temperature/terrain) and mount every other flat bar to the i-beam nose-tail-nose-tail-nose-tail...and so on but the last one if it is against the tail end frame if it is C channel deck frame should be overlapped to that tail deck C channel no matter what. same goes for the nose flat bar if it's possible no matter what the first and last should be securing against the frame C channel. this will stop shift of the deck in a crash first from either end reinforcing at the other end which will help prevent the bolts/screws from sheering off if there is decent frame damage and the planks from spring boarding off the trailer. this method allows for plank shift and frame twist due to temperature/moisture content and terrain travel all at the same time keeping the bolts/lags from breaking. it's basically a compression fastener like a washer, except it's one solid thicker piece that spans the entire width for lag screws thicker is better, don't use anything under 3/8", this is where over kill is nice bigger distributes more forces over a wider area and reduced the chance of breaking. i personally use 1/2" mans pinky wide finger for you techi-eccentrics across the pond. DO USE a dab of liquid nails before installing your lag screw and do predrill the holes and not all the way thru, just 50% or slightly more as water will soak the boards at some point and a close to surface hole will lead to premature rot when that happens enough. the liquid nails also happens to prevent not only the rot in the planks but also the lag screws from working lose as it bonds the lag screw into the wood it permeated into the grain holes and fissures ensuring no lags work their way out. tire poppers don't discriminate who they victimize when they fall out on your drive way a parking lot or on the road with giant can crushers on rubber wheels, plus tires are $100-$1,000 these days😵 for carriage bolts you should use 5/16" minimum, those will break, not alot, but some will if your using a tandem axel and you get on real flexi terrain like a ditch or lots of speed bumps. you don't need a flat washer but you do need a lock washer or lock nut. i recommend nylon lock nuts as they don't work lose for over a decade at the soonest in my experience. sounds long winded, it's just simpler to show some one than try to write a clear no nonsense un*mayhem*able term paper on

Also, if a possible, you can send me the part number for the shaft extender

Hey, do you still have the model? I need some parts for my Kawasaki engine maybe I can buy it for parts from you

“Hydraulic dovetail” What’s a video without comedy! lol Great job with the engine swap!

Today's modern trucks are junk.

Looking forward to more videos on this truck, it's a thing of beauty.

Excellent video, educational and not one wasted word.

Nicely done buddy 👍🏻

Great video. You made it look easy, but I know it's not. Taking out engines and replacing them is a pain. I have done many and I hate it, but sure is lots better than taking it to a shop and get ripped off with their labor costs.

2 gallons of oil? You meant 2 quarts right?

I dont know how they could have run it out of oil in 175hrs. I would guess the dealership did not put in enough oil & the new owner has to shoulder some blame for not checking it. !

Awesome Job can't believe you did it all while still on the trailer! Never knew there was a shaft adapter thanks💯👍🏾