Відео

@@Rokwallaby hey mate, love the name! Are you referring to the pin that located the gear stick in the housing to prevent it rotating?

@@Tomostuneups yeah the retaining pins, not sure how you got them out without un bolting the housing and lifting the car, there’s like zero room to tap them out

@@Rokwallaby it may have been that my tunnel surround was square rather than semi circle like a standard Classic Mini or most likely that the pins had worn to the point they weren’t being held in very firmly. If you loose closely in the video, I had some black silicone holding them in as they often fell out or came loose whilst driving. But you’re right, taking the whole assembly out is like out the way to go if they don’t come out in the vehicle

@@tobyhartley2829 cheers mate. Not to mention it’s a new harness and fresh paint job 😩 glad we found it now prior to full reassembly!

@@KingRant615 hey mate, Thanks for the comment. It should work similar to resetting the service interval. Let me know how you go. Cheers, Tomo

@@Tomostuneups sure do...my tire light won't go off

@@KingRant615 have you reset time and distance? Which light is illuminated, the flat tire light?

@@Tomostuneups yes ONLY the tire pressure light.

@@KingRant615 that’s a different light compared to tyre reset lamp. Check all Pressures and adjust accordingly as you’ve likely got a puncture. Then check the owners manual on how to reset. Some cars will Reset once pressure are corrected and then driven above a particular speed for a set amount of time

@@danielwebb5680 hey mate, thanks for your comment. I think this is a standard fibre gasket. It’s ideal for basic engines with standard to light modifications. Hope it answers your question. Tomo

@@hossackr great info mate, thanks for sharing 👌🏼 Correct, cavitation will cause air within the system and it becomes more of a tumble effect and doesn’t allow pepper cooling effect at high rpm. Unless you’re driving it that hard, best to stick to the lower rpm range.

@@alwood9148 hey mate, great question! We stuck with 8” drums for this build. After speaking with Colin, if we had done the disc brake conversion kit, we would have needed bigger wheels to clear the brakes, which then would have increased track above the legal limit of 25mm per side, deeming it to be illegal and unable to engineer track. Plus the cost was much higher and my customer wasn’t prepared to pay for the upgrade.

@@frostbite1991 I’ve not heard of the Holley retrobrights, I’ll have to check them out. These definitely look the part and keep it looking somewhat original, however you’re right. The price for these each is rather extreme but the quality is quite high. I’d have to check out the others and compare the two to give a comparison. If someone was looking to upgrade their lights, I’d start with a non sealed beam, then go with an LED upgrade prior to fitting these given the cost. Thanks for the comment mate 👌🏼

The box he's holding at the start of the video says 3000K

@@pauloconnor7951 glad you enjoyed it Paul. I feel I was born to late in life and should have been a mechanic in the 70’s and 80’s. How different times were along with the simplicity of the automobile 😍

@@jeffreyhearn9652 hey mate, Love it! Love the stories and how people would modify their vehicles to rectify a fault, well more like band aid fix it haha Keep them stories coming mate 😎

@@DingleBerryMTB wtf! Are you able to download the previous version? Was it backed up online? Backing it up online is the ONLY advantage of the Hero12, however having to pay for the subscription is a bit ridiculous, not to mention if you don’t upload it to the cloud, you have to eject the SD each time you want to download the footage. Hope you get your stuff back mate!

@@Tomostuneups After a bunch of digging today, i found a copy of the old version online, installed that and bamm. I'm able to do everything i used to be able to do. Plug in, auto download to folders. Simple. :) No subscription, no uploading to a gopro cloud

@@jeffreyhearn9652 hey bud, how ya doing? From what I’ve read, they can be oiled, however if it runs better without oil, then definitely clean it more regularly to ensure it breathes well. Thanks for the comment mate, hope you’re well. Tomo

Hey mate, Thanks for commenting. As I need to fit one of these to Grace, I’d be more than happy to do an episode on it. It’s fairly simple and short but I’ll get it filmed this week and uploaded asap for you. Watch this space! Tomo

Have you tried scrolling through the dash?

No idea. Probably shifting gears

Gday mate, Thanks for reaching out and for the comment. Both clutch styles work well but for this application, I definitely felt a hydraulic setup was right for this car. Took a bit of engineering to workout, but we got there. With the exhaust, we used a standard set of extractors in which I took to an exhaust shop to have them make a flange for it along with a whole new exhaust from manifold back as the old system (unless you haven’t seen yet) was shit and wouldn’t hold up to the power haha it definitely made the vehicle sound and perform that much better 👌🏼 Hope this helps mate Tomo

@@Tomostuneups Nice. I currently have a full Maniflow 1.5" exhaust setup on mine, which seems to suit it pretty well.

Indeed it likely will.

Indeed, however the battery is in the boot and running a 2.5m earth is going to run the potential of high resistance. I have one from the Bell housing to body and Battery to earth in boot floor. Which from my understanding is standard classic mini setup.

No, not on a mini, standard is a short earth to the body in the boot (makes sure its a good one, no paint in the way) then in the engine bay a single earth from body to block, most often its across the upper left engine steady points but its also common to see them from flywheel end housing to inner wing. The main loom earthing point is on the triangular bracing from bulkhead to inner wing, there will be some model differences however. So many issues can be traced back to a poor main earth.

@@MiniPerformance thanks for the info mate 🙂 much appreciated

@Tomostuneups you're welcome mate, we're from the same town, just different versions of it.!!

Correct, no start stop on this model. I’ve never had one where I’ve had to reset the steering angle sender from memory after changing a battery. Generally if the light is on, going from lock to lock then reaching above 30km/h generally resets the light. There may be another procedure though.

So glad to hear this video helped you do the job and a job well done. Thanks heaps for your feedback. Be sure to take it easy the next 500kms or so to allow the brake pads to wear in properly. Thanks again, Tomo

Sweet Jesus, how’d I get they wrong 🤦🏼‍♂️ great observation mate, I’ll be sure to adjust them to the correct position. Thank you

No dramas mate, glad I could have helped. It’s likely the contacts inside the key fob have either work out or they need replacing. I’ve not had that issue nor had to code one of those remotes before, but trusty doctor google/youtube should give you a pretty good answer I’d imagine. Sorry I couldn’t be much help. Let me know how you go

Still got some work to do, hopefully old silent bob aka Kev shows up sometime soon 😂

I told ya! That apprentice of yours is dodgy af. Such a bludger!🤣

True, however it makes it rather difficult to remove having it fitted that way

Hmm unsure mate. Unless it’s in the service part of the reset procedure, it may be set from the factory OR may need to be changed with a diagnosis tool. Have you consulted your local mechanic?

Thanks for the feedback mate. Regarding the alarm, if it’s a factory system, it won’t have an alarm as vehicles now come with immobilizer’s, a much more advanced system then a siren going off. Just disconnect the negative, open the doors and away you go. Before reconnecting the vehicle earth, switch the ignition on, that way if there’s any faults in the airbag system, the airbag would deploy upon reconnection of the battery. This is advised for any type of electrical/SRS airbag system repairs. He heard of cases from people doing repairs, refitting the battery then switching the ignition on inside the car only for the airbag to explode in their face. Hope this helps mate, Tomo

@@Tomostuneups Thanks for the useful info Tomo! I actually have a 2008 Mazda 2, very similar to yours and I read in the manual that disconnecting the terminal will cause the alarm/siren to go off and I would rather avoid this as my key fob buttons don’t work! Do you know how you managed to get your car not sound the alarm in this video 🙏🏽

@@ImplodeGamingHD not a problem mate. Hmm, maybe the earlier vehicles came with an alarm compared to this model with an immobilizer (2011). Best way to do it, run the vehicle, disconnect the battery whilst the engine is running, then change the battery. The alternator will provide enough charge to the electrical system to keep it going for the short time you’ve got the battery removed. This method shouldn’t be a problem on an early model vehicle. Let me know how it goes mate 👌🏼

Awesome news mate, well done! Glad you found the video useful as it took me weeks to workout some of that stuff. Thanks for reaching out, you made my day hearing that 😍 Feel free to contact me on Instagram if need be 👌🏼 Tomo

Hey mate. We ran with 8” drums at the front. Once bled and adjusted they worked a treat!

Bottom line, can’t upload to the GoPro app via cable like previous models.

Hey mate, great question. Always disconnect NEGATIVE first then positive. Tomo

Had to do this under the dash, I've seen people bend a fork. I ended up taking flatbar drilled out a hole, and then used rubber bands to keep pressure, basically creating this. If i was going to do this kind of work I would buy this part.

Hey mate, Thanks for the comment. Please see the link below; autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-Range-by-Brand-at-Autobarn/Saas/SAAS-Fuel-Press-Gauge-15-Psi-Liquid-Filled-41mm-Black---SG15B/p/PE18511 If you get stuck, contact me via instagram and we can work it out. Cheers, Tomo

😂😂 sorry to disappoint. Would have been the quicker MM out there if we did do it

@@Tomostuneups not disappointed, I liked hearing the mods. Years ago I put a 1600cc engine in my 1300 Escort. They bought in stricter rules just after that with regards to mods in New Zealand. I got knocked back on my WOF (roadworthy) inspection so had to jump through all sorts of hoops, get an engineer to look at it for $300, all for 5 or 11hp extra which was within the less than I think 10% power increase. I was joking with a wrecker about my "big block" being knocked when a guy that worked there got all butt hurt that I had called my little 1600 a "big block". I told him it was just a joke and I already knew that. We live in a steep street that has rough chip which has a curve at the bottom that makes it easy to break traction. I heard a V8 do a burnout one day in the pouring rain when I was at home. He made it all the way up the hill and as he crested it there was a huge bang and silence. The car coasted to a stop outside my place. This clown had been doing it practically weekly, even in school travel hours with kids on the street. Heard it cranking over a few times, then a door and bonnet open, a few more cranks but you could hear he had murdered it. This was the days before cellphones and about a quarter of an hour later there's a quiet knock on the door. It's the same bogan from the wreckers. Asks me if we have a phone he could use, "no, we just moved in and there's no phone yet". I asked him "is that a big block" and he says yes. "Shame" I said as I closed the door. His car was out there for a few hours before he got back from his walk with a tow truck.

I didn’t know they made a diesel starlet, I’d assume an overseas model? Haha electronic ignition is definitely more reliable that’s for sure!

@@Tomostuneups Yes, a 1990 diesel starlet. 1450 cc, no turbo. Japanese import. Incredibly reliable, 60 mpg but flat out at about 90 mph. It was 10 years old when I got it & had over 200000 kilometers on it. In the 5 years I had it all it required apart from ordinary maintenance was a rubber o ring in the injector pump, a heater pulg & an exhaust weld. In the end the clutch failed & an expensive imported clutch would have to be imported so I sold it as is & got a free old corolla from my mother that I got 4 years out of before I upgraded. Happy days of reliable motoring.

@@Neklar wowzers, how cool is that! 🤯😍

@@Tomostuneups Until 2017 the most I paid for a car was €3000. I got 6 years of easy motoring from that diesel Audi A4 & got over 130000 miles out of it before it was disposed of by a Skoda scrap scheme that paid more than the Audi cost me first day.

Gday mate, Nope, this is not needed in the back, unless you want it seriously low! Tomo