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Thank you for letting me know that. I have been happy with my first unit I setup and have just accepted I get no service from mfg if there is an issue like with this one. Roll the dice...

I'm your huckleberry! Thanks for that info. I know about the cool down but not about the running on high for 10 minutes thing. Thanks bud!

Thank you for the info Gary. I have tried to keep an open mind based on comments here but I have a hard time with the fact that the bit is basically pot metal. I have never had any of my real steel wood bits snap before. Hope your comment has helped others too.

I will look for one Eunice. Thank you for letting me know.

I guess what bothers me is that they advertise them as "no ticking" on Amazon and the video review I watched of a guy who does a lot of videos on diesel heaters kept hopping on the no ticking. But he is given units by the mfg and likely just shills what they want people to hear. We pay for our stuff and want them to be what they are advertised at.

I recently watched a youtube video of someone testing out used motor oil and it didn't go well. I just looked up the video. ua-cam.com/video/KQopA8n7quU/v-deo.html

Glad to see I am not the only one it happened to. No offense lol. I will look at the Irwin ones as well.

You are the second person to mention the Vevor units and are happy with them. Thanks for the comparison info. I have a 15amp fuse for mine. Is yours connected to a 10amp fuse setup? I wonder if that is why it is tripping at high levels.

@@senselessfun Yes, it did come with a fuse, and I believe it is a 15 amp, but the over heating is, I believe, to be internal. I plan on calling Vevor to ask them what the overheating could be. It will get my porch up to 80 degrees on setting 5, but will overheat at 6 or above. Can't wait to hear what the problem could be.

Good luck. I just setup my 2nd diesel heater to run using a 110ac to 12v adapter that is fused for 15a. You could always try that. I just posted the video up: ua-cam.com/video/Cr7KqfAsLIo/v-deo.html

Thank you for the reply reddragon. I completely agree about breaking bits. I have broken more than I would like to admit lol. But I never expected a brand new wood bit to snap like that going through just 3/4 inch plywood.

Thank you for that detailed information!!! That is really helpful. I will to make changes to the 2 installs I did on the exhaust setup to fix any possible condensation issues. I appreciate you pointing that out.

@@senselessfun Sure no problem. One other thing I will point out is that I have found if the unit is vented to an area outside the building where the air/wind does not move around and is stagnant, near a door or window, there is a greater chance of the exhaust entering the building through cracks around the door/window seals especially if the heater's combustion air intake is not located outside as it can create a negative pressure in the building, searching for air for combustion. A thermal camera is great for finding air infiltration into the building. Any other appliance or wood stove that vents to the outside will add to this issue as all air that leaves the building must be replaced with air somehow, someway, and will naturally find a way to make this happen. I also highly recommend to anyone with a wood stove to always install the fresh air kit for it so it will draw combustion air via there, rather than back drafting other appliances, bath fans, kitchen hoods, door/window seals, etc.

I may be misinterpreting your reply based on its being so brief, however, if you are implying the video is fraud then you apparently have not watched any of my videos. I do videos as physical speech therapy from tongue cancer treatment last year and not for clicks and views. I point out mechanical failures as well as my own failures in videos and just try to have fun doing them. No fancy production channel here. I hope you and your family have a nice holiday season.

​@senselessfun "Hazard Fraud" is what some people call Harbor Freight. To be fair, you only broke one bit, so you shouldn't be saying that all of harbor freights it's are junk.

lol Chris. Thank you for clarifying what that meant. And you are correct since I do use a lot of HF stuff and it usually suits its purpose. It could have been just a mfg defect crack.

Thank you Yonni!! Have a great day.

Thank you for your reply. Have a great day!

I was just very surprised and don't want anyone getting hurt from a bad product.

Had to Google him lol. Thanks...i think. Funny guy. Glad you liked the video. You, my mom and sister so I got three that like it.

I will give my daughter the link to your video!!

Good to know. I only got the parts in the box so now bag or anything else for any other capabilities. I will have to look into that. Thanks.

Sounds like you have a good system worked out. Working on the ground was not fun. I will need to work on that if I continue to do this. My first cut setup is the small granberg mill and the ms310 saw using a granberg style rail system. I don't care for it at all. It is too flimsy and the adjustment screws back out with vibration on their own. Your exhaust pipe setup sounds good. I have a lot of new pipe lengths in my garage I may try that. I did get a less expensive grinder to sharpen chains than the Oregon. It works well and I have all the chains at 10 degrees. That is also how the granberg chains come. Thanks for the info on your setup and advice. And I have that pile covered with a tarp and also have put the first and last cut leftovers from the logs stacked on top of the pile for weight on the pile. I was hoping that would keep the boards in better condition.

​@senselessfun Your tag line of "senselessfun " is spot on for chainsaw milling. It makes no sense at all unless you just want to prove to yourself that you can do it. But it is fun when you see your results. When I started out,I just sliced off of the top after the 1st cut. It then occurred to me that,after the 1st cut, I could set my depth post as deep as the diameter of the log and remove the bottom flitch. Now I have a 2 side cant. It would be almost impossible to do on the ground, but works well up on sawhorses. Just put your shims between bottom of the log and bottom flitch . Of course that thickness is limited to 12-13" ,or 24" with the extended depth post. I have found a way to get a 90 degree, 2 side flat cant by rotating the log 90 degree (1st cut in the plumb position). Screw some blocks of wood into the sawhorses to hold the log in that position. Set your rails on top of the log and use a framing square to square the rails with the 1st cut flat side , which is now vertical/ plumb. If the log is less than 12" (Appropriate width of your rail system), you may have to block out your flat side with 2"x4" so that your framing square has a flat reference point.

@@cliffhaskett7703 Wow. You really do have a good system setup. I started doing videos to help with speech and memory issues after radiation and chemo last year for cancer of tongue. And I do what I think is fun no matter how ridiculous...and this chainsaw milling turned out to be fun. I will likely get a small tractor and setup sawhorse setup like yours. So I really appreciate your tips and advice. I also have an attachment that goes on your saw that uses a 2x4, 2x6 etc to square off logs on sides or make dimensional lumber. I haven't tried it yet. Have you used one of those before?

@@senselessfun Yes, I have used the Timber Tuff style jig before. Clamp to your bar and slide down a 2x4. That's what I really started out with. Homemade, I made one. Did not like it at all. And it can yield relatively good results with enough patience and a steady hand. But my cuts were terrible. The revelation I had with the Timber Tuff style was that the bar needs to be clamped on both ends to keep the tip of the bar from wandering. Even though your 20" Granberg Small Log mill only clamps on the power head end , I feel like one would have better control of the tip end as you would be working on a horizontal plane with a wider support base as opposed to sliding down a 2x4 vertically. 1 thing I forgot to mention. After 1st cut set-up of the rails and end plates , I have started lowering my depth post to the bottom of the log and removing the bottom flitch first. The reason being is that , when taking the 1st cut on top of the log , I was ending up with a 1 1/2" thick top flitch after compensating for clearance of the end plates. Then add 3/8" for the kerf of the cut and you have removed 1 7/8" of wood just to get a flat surface. I could yield another 3/4" thick board by moving to the bottom of the log and just barely skinning off a 1/2" flitch plus 3/8" kerf and you've only sacrificed 7/8" of wood 🪵 . When making long cuts (10-20') , I pull 2 strings from end plate to end plate (keep in mind, there are 2 pieces of 1 3/4" exhaust pipe. Left & Right for the mill to slide down). The strings are so I can set up mid span support structures that barely kiss the strings to keep the pipe from dipping down when the saw comes sliding down the rails. I have some homemade steel square tubing cut in half with a 1/2 round circle (1 3/4" hole saw cut, sliced down the middle) . The square tubing now resembles a " U " shape or piece of steel channel. Or I sometimes just use wooden blocks screwed into the log to reach up and barely " Kiss " or touch the string. When I'm all set up , remove strings and lay the exhaust pipe in the 1/2 circle cut outs.

Right? I couldn't agree more!

I was amazed at the difference too. They sell all kinds of chains so you should be able to get standard chains too.

ua-cam.com/users/shortstbtODrBZcAo?si=cLAAODHk1XMpAGUK

That's a clip from lumber capital log yard here on youtube

Yes. I agree if you had no equipment at all and were doing a cost difference then there wouldn't only be a couple thousand difference for getting a bandsaw mill. But that also depends on what you buy. If you buy a cheap bandsaw mill and expensive saws etc it would be small difference. If you buy cheap saws and an expensive bandsaw there would be a huge difference. Also to get large logs onto a bandsaw mill rail you need some type of equipment usually. That can also vary from winches and pullies to a tractor so that has to be thought of. Far better results and much easier with a bandsaw mill setup though in my opinion.

@@senselessfun Yeah, followup equipment needed for the bigger ones would be quite an expense too, completely forgot about that :D Thanks for the answer!

The two things I would check is to ensure you didn't hook up the fuel lines backwards going to carb from tank. And if it was a cheap carb off amazon that you purchased you may have got a bad one. They are hit or miss if they work or not.

@ thanks. I believe I have the lines correct but am not 100%sure. What is the correct orientation. The line that the primer bulb is connected to is not the line with the filter right?

Let's forget about left and right in case those lines aren't in the same place in tank. take the cap off tank and look to see which side has the long hose with the filter attached to it and trace that to which side it goes out. That hose should be connected to bottom of carb. The other line is the return line and that one should be connected to the longer nipple on the priming bulb assembly. Also double check the fuel lines didn't get pinched anywhere when you put the new carb on and tightened it down. If that is all good and the priming bulb works correctly then it may be a junk carb you were sent.

@ the long hose is connected to the fitting that is closest to the body of the blower. I believe that is the line closest to the carburetor pump. The short line is connected to the fitting that closes to the filter. The opening of that fitting faces the tank

To charge lithium batteries with that charger you choose the Lifep04 setting on the unit.

If the charger cannot detect the very flat battery, the BMS maybe shut down. To wake it up put 12v across the flat battery for a few seconds then you might have 11v on the zero volt batter, now the red charger will detect and charge. If that does not work take the 12v battery apart, if each of the 4 cells inside measures over 2.5v each you need to replace the BMS, about USD8$ upwards from china for 12v 100A BMS

Sorry you had so much trouble Sarah. Guess it is a good thing that I like fixing stuff

I have been using the red ones for about a year in 2 different places. I have 3 of them. They charge all my batteries no issues at all. Lifep04, lead acid, and deep cycle . I honestly can't complain. I use them for 50ah and 100ah lifep04 batteries all the time. And I have had batteries my Schumacher chargers would just lock up trying to charge but these chargers were able to do it.

This is the correct fridge type Matt. Thank you for responding to video with all that great information. I had tested the small standard fridges with my killawatt meter but was curious as to how this one would do.

Great info Mike. I will keep an eye on that.

Sorry. I should have posted that. I bought this one off amazon. It works ok. A bit of a pain to keep changing heights so I just bought a granberg small mill off FB marketplace now to use my small stihl saw for first cuts and use the big saw and big mill for cuts without having to change height. www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7C656WJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I am glad it helped you!

I have been using 3 of these for about a year and no issues and they work well.

Yes. That red charger has a fan built in

Exactly. This dude tapping was annoying as hell. I'm just going to buy a Victron charger. Screw this cheap junk.

@@boomer7638 Yes you need the proper Voltage charger for your batteries.

Great info. Thanks for sharing