Відео

I know, I had the same question coming into this video and it doesn't even address it... from my research, it appears that the general consensus is to go with the OEM solid bearing, as the needle bearing requires frequent maintenance due to dust collecting on the open rollers (i.e.: intended for racecars that have the transmission pulled often).

I'll take some measurements and post them on here; especially of the barb fitting where this tank connects to the radiator. This tank was fit onto a Nissan 240sx and the hose that was used was durable enough to heat and fit over the barb fitting on the tank.

The tank height including the fill cap is 8 1/4" with a diameter of 3". The barb fitting is 1/4" diameter (barb is slightly larger). The 5/16" inner diameter hose going from the radiator to this tank I heated with a heat gun to make it more flexible to help fit it over the barb fitting and then it was secured further with metal hose clamp.

Thanks man!! This totally helps!!

bigfredo2987 thanks for watching. I want to post an update video soon, please let me know what you would like to see to help prove the bushings' integrity. I've been getting a lot of negative comments on this video. These have been on for a year or a little longer now and have seen both street and tracktime. This is by NO means the Correct way to install these, just merely "A Way" to get the job done without a press (as the title suggests).

Hi, sorry to hear that. An unbalanced wheel could be responsible for the shaking if the vibration increases with an increase in speed. After asking around, it seems that this steering wheel shake is often associated with a loose joint in the steering assembly. If its a wheel bearing, there would be play in the wheel in both vertical and horizontal directions. I narrowed this steering wheel shake down to a excessive play in one of the spherical bearings at the end of the front lower control arms. Here's a video of the bearing play: m.ua-cam.com/video/XWzUNVfV9oQ/v-deo.html

Yoo when your car was acting up while you were driving did the transmission and shifter shake as well??? Also did you find out what happend?

I was hesitant to post this at first because I wanted to make sure these would work well before sharing the process. So some cautionary advice: TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I will most definitely post an updated video after some driving- I'm curious about how they will work as well. This process was used on these rear knuckles and the rear control arms. I'm hoping to have some results to share within the next few months; weather permitting. Just to provide a little more info on this: Everything is still tight since the bushing part around the inner sleeve wasn't disturbed (just the one lip on the bushing), both lips are resting on the outsides of their respective sockets (fully installed like they should be), and actually the inner sleeve made everything tighter. Both "lips" on either end of the bushing are fairly thick too, so the "cut/grooved" side does still have some structure. The cuts/grooves really helped to facilitate just enough room for flex and allow for less distortion of the bushing during the install. I'm thinking since the arms surround these (in addition to the main part of the bushing remaining intact and the overall tightness of the fit), hopefully the bushings will still work well. There is one video on here where someone cuts the polyurethane part of the bushings in half to install them.

"Than" needle bearing. =)

The pneumatic 90 deg fitting with the short length of hose (near fill cap) is just a vent to relieve excess pressure within the tank itself; it does not connect to anything. The flared/barbed fitting welded on the side of the tank near the bottom, is the one that goes into the fitting right next to the radiator cap (just like how the OEM coolant reservoir is installed). These tanks are pretty universal, so you shouldn't have too much trouble fitting it. The only thing I would advise you to do is to check the sizing of the bottom fitting against your tubing and fitting on the radiator. Mine was slightly larger, but I was able to coax the tubing into place with some heat; just temporarily until I have the time to weld on a smaller fitting. The walls on the bottom fitting are pretty thick too, so they could be filed down; just make sure to clean out all the filings before use. Alternatively, One could also weld on a new, smaller fitting (like I mentioned above) or use a high temp tubing adapter. Hope this helps : ]

thank you for your quick response. so which one of these nice looking coolant overflow tanks could i get for my car? i know you said it was universal and the top hose connects to nothing. but my stock one has two hoses one goes to radiator (bottom hose) and top hose goes to something else, not sure what. any clue which one i could get?

To be honest, I'm not familiar with Caprices. This link may help you out though: www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/243250/pid/1925839/ .