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Please tell me the correct way to do it then.

Customer has had them on a long time. My guess is mean cycles is the best place to check.

Send it over. lol

Thanks! Thanks for watching.

Well one thing I can promise you is this bike is gonna move and move fast. You are gonna be able to put it in neutral with no issues and bang second gear as much as you want and as hard as you want.

Glad to. Thanks.

Appreciate it. For a full rebuild, labor is $2700. Since we are in there, might as well do a built transmission, which is about $1k. Then it is just any additional parts. I would say somewhere around $4500, give or take. His bike will be good to go for another 20 years.

@@lhcycles1301 I'm going to have to start saving money man, lol

@@TheJayden158 lol definitely not cheap. But at least in many cases, the bike is decked out so it is cheaper than buying a new bike.

@@lhcycles1301 May not be cheap man but for a 109 it can be worth it. I simply have never ridden anything i like as much! Besides, everything on this bike is a pain the the ass to work on.

that is exactly right. Everything, outside of the engine, is a wear item and can easily be maintained. If you do a full rebuild for $5k, it really is like getting a new bike, and that is a lot cheaper than buying something new.

When the screw bottoms out, you back on 3/4 to 1 turn and you will be fine. When you do that the nut isn’t able to be in the threads? If so then something is wrong with the clutch or install. What year bike and what clutch did you put in?

@@lhcycles1301 2008. EBC Clutch

I was trying to add a picture but can't for some reason

@@maxamus01 Ok, I have no luck with those and we won't install them. Most of our customers that come in with burnt up clutches tend to be EBC. There is a measurement called "stack height" and that is the measurement of the full clutch pack. if the stack height is off and is too high, your pin needs to go in further and that could be your issue.

@@maxamus01 message me the image on FB if you want. Harris Horwtiz.

my opinion, they are the only bike that people will flock to and take pictures of, even when stock.

lol always has a smell of burnt oil every time I open up the valve covers. 😂

Thanks and you are right. We used to use an engine hoist but it was a pain. I actually used it to lift my wife’s 109 off the stand. lol had tank off so strapped the frame and took it up.

Were you in the correct pins? I have never seen or heard of any of them ever doing that.

Appreciate it.

Glad to help. Hopefully it gives a little help when doing it yourself

You're welcome. It is a little challenging doing them without a camera person and trying to work but we will keep doing them.

Great bikes! Thanks for watching.

Thanks! When we did my wife's last year, it had 80k. Motor was mint, just had bad valve guides but rebuilt it all.

I could not agree more.

Lol our ocd kicked in when we saw them.

Where are you located? If near Maryland you can come check it out. If not, we will be filming a lot.

@@lhcycles1301 Depends what part. I will shoot you a message on the forums!

You want it more straight up or it will leak out of the filler hole before you get the right amount in. However, you can put a board or two under the kickstand to straighten it up if you don't have a jack.

Thank you! 🙌🏽

@@picklerick7106 glad to help.

Yes it is the 2011-present full kit that works in all years.

It is the newer 2011 to present that works in all years. Yours is a 5 disk and 4 steel setup. This is a 6 disk and 5 steel setup. Same stack height and a direct fit right into your basket on your 07. I had it on my 07 as well. FYI, I just got a new batch in, so I have 6 kits in stock. They were on back order for a month.

algo se perdió en la traducción. ¿Necesitas el motor completo?

1 full turn is what the manual calls for. I prefer 3/4 as it keeps the engagement closer to the grip. Either one works fine.

Sorry never saw this notification. It doesn't matter whether it is hot or cold.

More than likely it would miss. If you are on one cylinder I would test for spark and see if they are firing. Then if you hand spark I would look into fuel. Could be an injector.

@@bigpapam109 i had the injectors bench cleaned before i reinstalled them so i would assume fuel is good. i will check for spark and see what happens. thanks!

@@Kalanioccc ok great. I have cleaned many and even then some are bad. Make sure to power the injector and see if it is opening and closing properly if you have good spark. You can even swap the injectors and see if the other cylinder is dead and the one that wasn't working now works.

@@bigpapam109 ill do all that this weekend and see what happens. do you mind if i recorded a video of it idling and sent you a link?

ua-cam.com/users/shortsvn029h1SR-Y

FI light for Fuel Injection I believe. Check is normal when it shuts off. But if it is saying C00 You are not having any issues. There is a fuel light that blinks but that is yellow.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad we could bring the product to everyone with a much cheaper price.

Not sure I understand your comment.

Same premise for the clutch. I have never checked the part numbers to see if it is the same clutch.

Really glad we can help with the videos. The pair valve acts the same on all bikes for the most part. Deleting it fixes most of the back firing for sure. I have done it myself on four or five customer’s 109s.

⁠@@lhcycles1301thanks for responding! And I was just wondering. To do a clutch plate change and set the clutch correctly do I need to fully pull the motor? Or could I possible drop the exhaust and drain the oil and do it that way?

@@KornyTheDragon you're welcome. You can simply leave it on the kickstand over night. Pull the exhaust and you can pull the clutch cover off with minimal oil loss. I use a pet pee pad and it may get a few drops. Also, if you get into the clutch and see things very dirty, like fiber material, you will need to remove the oil pan and clean your sump screens. All can be done with it right on the ground, although a little harder for the oil pan. We have the clutch video as well as an oil pan video to show you. If you are near an oil change, then I would drop the oil first, then do the rest. Also, we now sell clutch kits for a great price. You can email me at landhcycles@gmail.com if you need.

If the bike feels like the rpm’s are going up under throttle, but it isn’t increasing speed like it should.

Glad we could help and thanks for watching. We will be having a bunch more videos coming.

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching! Glad to help.

Did you replace the wave washer and inspect the main drive plate? The oiling is immediate but if you didn't replace the wave washer and inspect the main drive plate, that could be your issue. Sometimes it gets grooved. Also, the wave washer is a spring and we believe that due to lack of oil, it gets hot and also contributes to the issue, which is why we always replace that.

Sorry for the delay. You would need to remove the slave cylinder from the clutch arm, do the adjustment and put it back. It is a pain but that is what needs to be done.

Sounds good preciate it

Ur video help 1000%

@@kevinshack2004 that is awesome. Glad we could help.

You’re welcome.

Thanks for watching! The M stands for muscle. In the Boulevard line there is a C for cruiser as well. I am not sure what the R is for.

Super , thanks for that.

@@GG-xs8vt glad to help.

That is awesome! Very glad we could help you do it yourself. Thanks for watching.

Have seen them snap at 8 ft/lbs. It won't leak when snugging up good. Never had one leak in over 100 clutch jobs. Also, if the torque wrench is not calibrated well, and is reading low, it will snap those bolts. Have seen this a few times now.