Відео

Masonry bits is a good trick

This is a very cool project

NICE💥

Here's what I'd do. Lose the "case hardening" stuff. Just heat to non magnetic and dunk in oil or water (oil is safer). Don't dip it slowly like you were doing. Doing that could let it cool to below critical temp and won't allow hardening. #2, tempering the shoe to blue is good, but if the frizzen is getting to blue it's tempered too far (flint strikers for flint/steel fire starting sets are typically quenched and not tempered at all). I wouldn't let the frizzen get any farther than light straw color. I'd probably even try having the striking surface in water and just temper the shoe.

Technically, the softening of the shoe would be annealing...

i would quench in oil water can cool it off too fast and make the metal brittle

history back, one piece at a time

glad you know about this stuff. i have no clue lol

Is your film reversed giving a left sided flintlock?

Clack clack

Things taste like matzos

Scrambled eggs

did you make the carriage yourself ?

How aboud the Pathfinders wo put camo on their uniforms? (not the older unreinforced ones from Sicily, the ones where they used C-47 paint) Did they apply the camo over the cc2?

BFA

Really cool 👍

Did they do this to the M41 field jacket?

What’s my invite? lol works really good

Really sad your customer wanted to destroy the original paint on a $400 original WWII helmet. WTF? That would be like someone taking an original German double decal helmet and wanting to paint a big swastika on the front because it looks cool. Ugh. I would have told this customer to take the helmet to some else because I won't ruin an authentic piece with postwar additions.

avast, indeed

There are so many shades of orange! Thanks Corey! 😎🐝☀️

🇦🇺😎👍🏁

Hey Corey! Sadly I dont have any otterwax at hand, do you think that barbour wax could achieve the same look or do you think i should wait until i can get my hands on otterwax?

Found your channel today, love what you’re doing man! Keep it up!

what would be the difference in using the bar vs the can ? are the ingredients the same ? EDIT: what is the difference between using just beeswax and a combination of beeswax/parafin like in the Greenland Wax ?

Mine took the slightest bending, but I used an original 1928 stock.

Good color match! You are correct at the 4:1 mix. Just a suggestion - thin your paint a bit with some acetone. Typically the tip color markings are a thin coat, almost a wash. Something else to try would be thinned fingernail polish.

Hold up, do you have access to an m60? And remember 5:1 regular to tracer

If the speaker can play while charging and doesn’t last a whole day playing you can probably fit a portable battery charger in the speaker with it to help extend the life.

That is a slick setup

I've used the same thing for my morale radio... I have three different micro SD cards... One for D-Day, One for Market Garden and one for the Battle of the Bulge so I can tailor my radio traffic to the event I'm doing... I use a similar MIFA speaker for mine. I have an LS-7 but I'd hate to gut a good speaker like that...

😝 'promosm'

Awesome vid man! Gonna get my M42 looking spot on!

2f lights off just fine in my muskets, it burns a little sootier usually, I think you need to sharpen your flint

do you have the color code(green)?

Failure is success in progress! 😊

Nice project! If you are wanting a perfect fit you have a couple of options - using a polymer-faced hammer apply a few blows from the inside approximately at the top of the butt trap hole to straighten out the buttplate slightly. Option two would be to use some inletting grease (or other inletting black) to mark the grain end of the buttstock and file/sand for the perfect fit. Frankly, I think your fit is fine as is.

Unfortunately the files got corrupted, but many thanks to Devin for doing his best to fix them!

That was easy! 👍

New at this it would seem

3f for the primer

Sick looking smoke poles! I bought their long land pattern musket and it runs like a clock, i got thin layer of rusting in the barrel. Any suggestions to aleviate this? Whats you cleaning route for oiling yours

I purchased their Potsdam pistol recently. I added a stainless touch hole liner rather than simply drilling a touch hole, sights and reduced the sear spring pressure for a lighter trigger pull. The frizzens are indeed hardened, as advertised, however the frizzen spring on these locks have way too much tension and must be reduced. As is, they will not work well and will substantially shorten flint life. It does not need to snap shut with any force, just enough to keep the pan covered with a couple ounces of pressure, nothing more. After that the frizzen is 100% improved and has plenty of sparkle with long flint life.

I use 120grs of 1F Goex in my Brown Bess and get fantastic accuracy at 75 yards. I usually load my paper cartridge (.69 round ball) directly into the barrel and the prime with 4F Goex that gives me great ignition. Enjoyed the video sir!👍🏻

Sweet! I bought a Military Heritage Sea Service pistol (the 12" like yours) a few weeks ago and just drilled the touch hole yesterday after making a replacement hickory rammer earlier. The pistol's still disassembled on my bench so I can strip and refinish the wood next weekend, but before then I consistently got really good sparks with a sharp flint, same with my other flintlocks from them, so no reason to think the frizzens I've gotten from them aren't hardened. I enjoyed your video showing yours in use -- looking forward to burning powder in mine! I like how Military Heritage's flintlocks can be used as is (after drilling the touch hole) or treated as fitted kits. I redid my 1728 French musket from them in a dark walnut TransTint stain and was astonished at the nice grain that had been hiding under the factory finish.

Imagery is reversed! What is all the extra stuff on the lock ,? Is it a real flint lock or se type of modern ignition ?

For a little faster ignition make sure that the powder in the pan is away from the flash hole. That flash jump actually improves the ignition of the charge in the barrel. If necessary, reharden your frizzen or redress your flints to get more sparks.

Now this is my type of arts and crafts

Put in in epoxy haha