- 76
- 124 506
Bikes, Cars, DIY, skydive Everything goes
Приєднався 18 вер 2014
I know enough to get my self in to truble ✌️, short DIY
Відео
Honda Africa Twin XRV750 Brakes caliper refub
Переглядів 1826 місяців тому
Honda Africa Twin XRV750 Brakes caliper refub
Ford focus MK2 bad idle cuts out fixed
Переглядів 1,2 тис.11 місяців тому
Ford focus MK2 bad idle cuts out fixed
Ford Focus MK2 2009 Rear shock replacement
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Рік тому
Ford Focus MK2 2009 Rear shock replacement
Ford Focus MK2 2009 front shock replacement Drama part 1
Переглядів 130Рік тому
Ford Focus MK2 2009 front shock replacement Drama part 1
BMW R1100 motronic chip downgrade part 4
Переглядів 714Рік тому
ua-cam.com/video/XDa9V7T3IHQ/v-deo.html part 1 ua-cam.com/video/yioz7FEDdw0/v-deo.html part 2 ua-cam.com/video/18rJILg0Uzk/v-deo.html part 3
Ford Focus MK2 2009 Drop links replacement
Переглядів 4 тис.Рік тому
Ford Focus MK2 2009 Drop links replacement
BMW R1100RT Throttle body service part 6
Переглядів 2 тис.Рік тому
BMW R1100RT Throttle body service part 6
BMW R1100RT Fork oil seal change part 4
Переглядів 4,4 тис.Рік тому
BMW R1100RT Fork oil seal change part 4
BMW R1100RT brake fluid change Part 3
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Рік тому
BMW R1100RT brake fluid change Part 3
BMW R1100RT Gearbox Final Drive oil change Part 1
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
BMW R1100RT Gearbox Final Drive oil change Part 1
BMW R1100 Fuel pump and injectors upgrade
Переглядів 3,9 тис.2 роки тому
BMW R1100 Fuel pump and injectors upgrade
Very nice💥 🛠
A 400. dollar impact, and a 4 dollar floor jack 🤗
@@jamesrichardson771 have to budget somewhere 🤣🕶
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 Very good Job, my friend!!! I couldn't help myself, raggin" on your little floor jack 🤗🛠🙏
Saved to my new RT playlists, thanks mate. Keep up the good work!
Con un destornillador es imposible saber si el pistón está en su punto máximo de altura ...para eso está la cadena .. justo abajo y tiene una flecha que indica su posición..
How did u know shock was bad? I have 1999rt 30000 miles feels OK.
@@jenmac287 i didn't, 85k ml on my shock, i just had chance get good shock cheap, that why i chenge it. I must take old shock apart.
here is a metallic sound when the engine is running. Is it a broken starter?
@@t-akethatsotherchannel5792 not sure what noises but starter shouldnt be engaged when engine rining
Top man. I need to tackle it in my Focus before the NCT next month. Thanks for sharing the video!👍
I feel your pain, I got bitten by a focus a few years back too, I was using a bottle jack to push the rear control arm up and compress the spring, and I had some blocks under it. As I was cranking the jack, all of a sudden the arm went sideways and for whatever reason my left hand ended up between the control arm and blocks. Took most of the flesh off the left index finger, ambulance, hospital cleaning, the whole lot. Car was sitting up on stands for a few days until I grew the balls to finish the job. It took a few months to properly recover. Some lessons are written in blood but like yourself, it didn't stop me. I was doing the job after work, tired in the dark, don't mess with springs when you're tired!
@floodea thanks for your comments, yes unfortunately playing with heavy metal sometimes paying heavy price if not carefully. So be very careful 😂
Hi there, got the exact same problem with a Focus 2 - 1.8 Flexifuel 2006. But cleaning throttle body and reset adaptations with Forscan did not help at all. Still rough idle.. Car run's fine on higher revs. Anyone got any others ideas?
@@johnbunsowlinden3416 hey, same problem no always same solution, try check for air leaks. After that professional help. Hop you get sorted, keep us posted
thanks! Did run a smoketest but no leaks found. Will remove intake to check PCV hose.@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507
screwdriver and hammer is all you need, lol. Thanks for the video. Tackling myself next week for the first time since my local BMW has now shut down, but TBH they were charging too much for this anyway. BTW: You might want to remove the inner metal spring before taking the seal out first, in case when you pop it it falls into the hole. You DO NOT want that.
pls, shut the radio or tv off when recording, very annoying trying to clearly hear you over the rest of the babble...cheers!
@@alainmiclette7634 🤣 yes Sr!
If you torqued your fasteners like I said in the other video, this wouldn't of happened.
@@DogsOnAcid thanks for comment, but even if torque bolt still get undone some times, from vibration🤷🏽
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 that's true and why you should apply threadlock on critical fasteners
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 also you should torque your fasteners immediately after applying a very small amount of threadlock before it sets. The manual will give you the expected torque with the threadlock if it tells you to apply it.
You shuold really read and follow the Honda manual next time. If you don't have it I can give it to you. 1 - You should always replace the seals when refurbishing your calipers. 2 - You should always replace the pins when refurbishing your calipers. If you did you wouldn't have to worry about corrosion. 3 - The only thing that should touch those seals and brake pistons is brake fluid. You have just contaminated your brake system with grease. Brake fluid will help you slide everything in place. 4 - You must torque the fasteners. This is your brake system. You won't strip any threads if you torque this to spec. And you won't crash and die because a fastener came loose. 5 - Clean your entire caliper with a tootbrush, warm water and fairy liquid after dissassembly, if you are going to take the time to "refurbish" your caliper, at least take 2 minutes to clean everything. 6 - Stop applying copper grease to your pins. The factory doesn't do this and the honda manual does not tell you to do this. You don't want any kind of grease ANYWHER NEAR your friction surface.
@@DogsOnAcid well.... its not 1st rodeo for me, thanks for offer but i do have manual, i dont replace seals unless chunks missing out of them , i service callipers once a year onthis bike due to corrosion.
So pour oil right up to the cap, but remember to keep the motorcycle on center stands. Right?
🎉экстрим
Good work, thanks
Teşekkürler❤
Good Video
Thxs again... this helps... now I want 2 Change the gearbox oil as wellicht
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thxs... makes it easier for me
You're lucky. I have the 2014 R1200RT and I spent most of the day trying to get the starter motor out. The manual says "remove screws" but don't tell you that you will be pulling your hair out getting at them. I ended up welding a Torx bit to a piece of round bar. While this could only just get to the bolts between the frame, I then couldn't turn one of them because it will hit the frame no matter what. I ended up ordering a micro ratchet and I hope that will let me get it out.
Did you had a chance to do it, yet? If not, worth watching Chris Haris, he has a video here on YT on replacing a starter on a 2004 bmw r1150rt; using extensions helps (talking about 2-3 feet, in his case, I believe). I wonder how different might be from your model. There is a certain way to get them out on the rt, that he shows, tilting it a certain way. Also it helps getting a long 6 mm ball end allen (atleast on the 2004 that is what they use), that allows a fery helpful tilt into the rear bolt, between the starter and body of the bike. I think the allen ball end idea actually came from another video, from "the bmw guy", also has a good video on the topic. Got my ball end allen today from Harbor Tools, and ordered a starter last evening, ready to replace mine as well! After watching Chris Harris, I ended up ordering the Enduralast rather than Valeo, it seemed he favored the aftermarket better than the original for some reason.
@@t.s.3669 Completely different bike with starter in a different place. I did get it done with the small ratchet I ordered and it made no difference. I think I have another issue, maybe a bad ground somewhere. Cleaned up the relay connectors too. Maybe my battery is just old, but running battery diagnostics it says it's fine. I read 12.8v going down to 11.6v on a load test, but a cranking test makes it go down to 8.6v-9.4v. It doesn't make sense. I cleaned up all the wiring. It's not as often now but every so often it sounds like it is struggling. I did notice the starter feels stiff to turn by hand though when reassembled. Not sure if that's normal because of the strong magnets? I smoothed the commutator in a drill press and the bushes have plenty of life.
@@ArcanePath360 I was about to ask if you checked the negative battery to the frame connection, but then I realized you mentioned checking all the wiring, already. How old is your battery, I wonder. Mine lasted 4 years, even though always on battery tender, but indeed, different generations, and when it comes to electronics, they could be sensitive. Did you had a chance to check/scan for any error codes? Some owners report issues with the starter magnets, at various years/models.
@@t.s.3669 I bought the bike in 2021 and it looks like the original battery as it's markings show BMW and it looked a bit old, so cannot say. However with a surface charge the bike does seem to start easier. The terminals did need a bit of sanding /wire brushing to shine back up but weren't too bad. No white corrosion just a little green and black. The markings on the battery show it has 200CCA, but when you go to replace it, you have the option of 240 (or maybe 220 I can't remember) or 270 for a better one for this bike. It might be that it's not very healthy but I am getting other weird symptoms... Sometimes my fuel pump makes a creaking/buzzing noise after I shut off the bike, maybe like a fan on hot days and then there's a loud mechanical click after about 30 seconds where it stops. I know that my servo motor in my exhaust also doesn't do a self check, it doesn't rotate at all but doesn't seem to affect anything. And my fuel pump always makes a little noise when it primes as I first turn the key, but never stops. I'm sure it used to shut off after a few seconds but now it doesn't. It feels like something is draining the power. A multimeter shows my voltage dropping by about 0.01v per second until I crank. Not sure if that's normal. Unfortunately I don't have the expensive code fault finding tech. I think they are massively over priced for what they are.
@@ArcanePath360 Indeed, de priming fuel pump noise should stop after a second oe two. Too many electronics in those bikes nowadays, some glitches just caused by electric supply variations. You can find a cheaper 911 scan if you look on sites like ADV rider, they might only work on 1-2 bikes (vs the new ones I believe you can register up to 4 or 6 bikes), for about $200. If you can get one, highly recommend it, it would pay itself even if you needed once to erase some gremlin code that might prevent the electronics from starting, down the road.
After you evaluated everything did you keep the John Gemi chip in with the upgraded injectors or take the chip out when you did the injectors. Just wondering if doing both would make run too rich?
Hey, i downgraded from stage 11 i think to stage 9, run better, i dont think new injectirs made any big difference, its just keep me busy 😁, i left stage 9 in with new injectors
Top man val, defo know ur stuff 👍
Don't know about that 🤔😁
Good vid , my top mount broke
Definitely good time to replace it 😁
What sort of crash bars do you have on your bike? I'm looking for something similar for my 1150RT
Wunderlich
thank you!@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507
Hola es correcto un 5w40 para la rd 07 o mejor un 5w50 sorry is better a 5w40 our 5w50 for the rd 07 thanks ah i see ok 10w40 is the correct
Manual 10w40 , I use that just because wet clutch but could be different for different countries
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 thanks
My xr250 air cooled run on semi-syn 10-40w auto oil 45th km, any problems too. Use more than +40°, change- 3000km road, 1000km offroad Sorry for translate @@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507
@@StepuninDeeMotoVideo yes better use what recomended in manual, like air cooled bikes have differnt tolarant batween different metals and running bit hotter then water cooled , on newest bikes use thiner oils because smaller oil passages and so on, that why use what manufacturers says. Sometimes changing type oil to compensate for years of abuse.
The cv joint screw must be tighten to 75 Nm
Yes that quite possible, it's up to individuals to do research.
Very helpful, thank you:)
What size bolts where the top of the arch? I have bought a dinger and full of problems mines just come off 😢and no bolts
Hi. I presume you talking about 2 bolts that hold shock on top? They 10mm head not sure about thread . Not to long just try what fit in about inch and half long 4 - 5cm ish just make sure put threadlock
Thanks mate I thought mine had come off but they are still there. I'm going to use this video to fix mine thanks for posting this 😊
How did you decide what the height of the hub was before tightening the control arm bolts ?
1st i tighten bolt loose, put wheel back on , drop car of the jack, then torque bolts on the ground .
Thanks for your prompt reply,I shall go and do that now !!@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507
Thank for your great videos, I really need it, greetings from Saudi Arabia
Why didn’t you takeoff the cardan shaft
Because its stuck in the hub and I don't have big enough puller so just left shaft in , makes no difference
I have the same car
Video in italiano
Where did you get the tool from that shows the balance of throttle bodies?
Hey, ah that was years ago can't remember now , probably ebay , its cabtune 4 way , you can get 2 way too.
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 I’m just about to buy upgrade chip from John, stage 15 one advised by him after details of my bike shared. Hope it all goes to plan, with upgraded injectors too
any news?? how is the bike running?
ua-cam.com/video/FD4HRBgFE48/v-deo.htmlsi=0_1YRZhPu53cdtD1
Thanks for the video. Be really careful with any corrosion on the small spade connector on the starter motor. It is used to control the load sensing relay. When it gets a bad connection the bike loses most of its electrics, the ABS turns off and all the lights go! I had it happen on a winter's night while traveling 70km/h on a country road. Pure luck that I stopped before driving blindly into a ditch. Such a flimsy design for a critical component. BMW should have used a bolt connection and protected it better form the elements. Anyway, hope this helps you avoid having the same experience that I had. Cheers.
Is that std height for handlebars, or are they risers in there?
Hey , yes there 1" risers
درود بی کران بر استاد نکونام ای کاش به زبان ایرانی هم درمورد تعمیرات فورد فوکوس باشه
What is the part number of the control arm?
delphi tc2252
Wow ! I hope youre OK and healing well.I love all your no nonsense videos,they give me confidence to do the jobs myself.Once again best wishes and thank you.
Many thanks for kind words. That point of this videos, not to teach how to do it but to show even amature could do it .
For me the way You are doing it is just the simplest. I don't understand why other guys take the fuel tank off and first bleed part of the system - between pump and abs modulator and they next do part between abs modulator and brake calipers. Cheers.
Hey, well if R1150 , then you need bleed 3 separate circuit , from handle bars to ABS module, and the 2 separet circuits from the wheels to ABS module, its bit more complicated , but on R1100 it's regular ABS .
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 I didn't mean R1150 or even newer ones, only the oldest RT with ABS without fluid reservoir - if you look for tutorials on YT most of people take the tank off to bleed through the valves on pressure modulator. I inderstand it may be a more specific method if You want to make sure You got rid of any air in the system but if You just want to change the fluid I would di it your way. - that's what i wanted to say.
@@tomrider4003 yes I agree, unless it's airlock, but some people have OCD so for them that extra drop make them better sleep. I don't use videos as tutorials, I read manual 1st then use videos as cross reference and if there steps to bypass I probably will.
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 manual.. yes but it is not answering all the questions.. f.e i' ve changed rear break pump recently so I was excepting full rear system bleed will be necessary because of some air that I believe must have infected the system when the hose was disconected from the old pump. I didn't bleed and brake seems to work fine. But I suppose meaby it's better to bleed throufh the valves under tank so the system will release out one or two bubbles..? What U think ? Hope It is not OCD ;)
@@tomrider4003 hi. Well if still air in the system then brakes be spongy, I never had to bleed 1100 at abs module. So if brake working OK then I guess it's ok.
ÇOK Acemisin
JOHN GEMİ ÇİHP ❤
was having big noise coming from under the car , was thinking is wheel bearing, did check and the cv joint was just broken and grease all over the place , could this make that noise ? or still some wheel bearing is broken ? thanks
Hi, ok for start I'm not mechanic, but do couple checks, turn wheel all the way left and do circle if under power her clicking noise then it's possible cv joint then try right, normally cv joints will have nois only when turning under power, if driving straight and having kind of hum or grinding noise possible wheel bearing , if jack up wheel of the ground and spin by hand you will hear and fill. On other hand hold tripod and drive shaft and feel fif play there.
@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 yes mate , have done u said .. shaft has some play .. and knocking.. have ordered the bearing ..
Saved urself a few Bob doing it urself, fair play 👍
Mine had completely disintegrated, there is a metal collar inside the dust seal and a sprung metal band somewhere within the rubber. I have finally got all the nasty corroded bits out and hopefully I'll be able to get it back together so I can get to work tomorrow! The only other odd thing is one of the bolts that holds the handle bars in place isn't threaded, instead it connects to a loose nut on the underside. Thanks for the video. (it's an R1100R)
Thanks for message, about bolt holds handlebars, probably striped tread that why used longer bolt with nut, and hop you sort your seals too it's easy enough. Unless it's damaged but there is plenty and cheap second hand.
Oh, I’m in Waterford and the sun is blazing down😸😸