Відео

Incredibly interesting!

Can you tell me what type of rubber did you exactly used?

i love you thank you

Very informative videos. Quick question, where can I get rubber you used on press? I try to find but no luck. Thanks

Where did you get the piece of rubber?

nice system seen the rubber being used before on embossing letters into sheet metal they used letters cut out of metal stuck to a mdf board and pressed into rubber with sheet metal in between , think you could do door cards with bead roll shapes by using the same method though you would need to shift the panel a few times under the press to get the whole surface done , wonder how thick a material you flange with it before it maxes out the 20 ton press and if you can do something similar using an english wheel with a rubber wheel instead of a press i wouldn't be surprised if you could bend over the sides to make a mounting flange of the wingpiece using the same template and method , though you might go over it after pressing it to get it at a right angle but you should be able to make the initial radius bend started , maybe even at the same time as doing the holes you might be able to get most of the potatochip out of the center piece by preloading / adding a small raise in the middle of the mdf template , this strip of wood under the middle at the top should be enough , the mdf will deform some but that should help against the aluminium bowing away from the flanges

I would squeeze those rivits.

I just discovered your channel. While I am not building a Bearhawk, I am fixing to build an all aluminum part 103 aircraft which require the techniques you are demonstrating. I've learn a lot and I thank you for making these videos.

I'm curious why you didn't form the flange and the lightening holes at the same time.

You are a genius! I like specially the tool to finish the 90 degree folding.

Very stable video love to watch. explain everything. Thanks.

can you tell me the material type for rubber

can you please give the part number of the rubber

4 videos watched 3 different ones and I have seen more mistakes and stupidity in 30 minutes than watching some guy scratch build a metal rc plane with just hand tools and a vise ... at least the guy with the hand tools actually paid attention to what he was doing and saying and was actually working in a safe manner all the time ... not this guy ... he forgot all of his shop rules and obviously never had common sense ... I bet he still wants to touch the red glowing thing on top of the stove before mommy puts the pot she wants to use on it .. . tbh not worth the time or effort to get a tid bit here and there ... no matter how good the information is ... 30 minutes worth of time to learn you can cheat a bit by adding a strip on the back of a nose rib to lengthen it IF it is the same shape as the rest of the leading edge ribs .. and that if you dont cut the center holes all the way you save flying discs of doom ... nothing else is new or special ...

how much spring back did you account for in the flanges ... if any ... or do you plan on leaving the inner flange at a 87degree angle approximately after the pressing ... a flange tool would be much better than this press method for single hole flanges ... and is more accurate ...

ok as you move your head into and out of line with the boom mic you come in and out of good volume .. perhaps a Lapel mic wold be better so it is always near the source of the voice .. and then you can bob your head around all you want and not fade in and out of hearing ... so far not bad otherwise .. ... nice tip on part with the add on piece to lengthen the front rib section when it is not a uniform length all along the wing leading edge .. didnt think of that ... sadly wont work for me ... all my leading edge ribs are a slightly different shape and distance and all require a slightly different approach ...

FYI ... you have Part 1 twice ... I was trying to figure out why everything you ere saying sounded like I had just heard it before ..

Hi just wondering can you refer to the caps as lower or upper chords?

ingenious method for forming aluminum rigs!

Till your compressor kicks on at 2am and you wake your wife kiss that project goodbye ..lol or your wife!!

What type of rubber you have used?

What type of aluminum and heat treat is this? Thanks for the video

Tks

Enjoyed your videos. Shame you didn't keep making them.

Pretty aggressive on that rivet gun there. I might turn it down a few pounds. They get pretty hard to control, especially when driving a #4 or #5 rivet. Otherwise I'm really enjoying your videos. I just ordered a set of plans for the Patrol, and can't decide what (if anything) I want to order versus make. I'm an A&P so I've done most of this work many times before--but that doesn't mean it doesn't still take a bunch of time. So a guy needs to decide how much $$ it's worth to knock down some hours in production.

What are the yellow and black materials?

Nova® Cleco Installation Tool - Pistol Grip @ panamericantool.com (Leave the cleco pliers in the toolbox. The gun is a worthwhile investment)

I know I'm late, but from what I found in my research, this is a Polyurethane *RUBBER* Sheet. The Poly alone isn't rubbery. And McMaster Carr sells it, and it's the "amber" color that has the highest tensile strength, *NOT* the black which appears to be almost the same, but when you read through the specs the tensile strength of the "amber" version is much higher, everything else seemingly being close to equal. Since links tend to stop working over the years (and this seems to me to be a classic video that will be useful for years) Go to the McMaster Carr site and look up the category: *Abrasion-Resistant Polyurethane Rubber Sheets, Bars, and Strips* then look under the sub-heading... *Semi-Clear Sheets* And I think that's the same yellow rubber he is using. I'm actually placing an order for a piece myself (and boy is it expensive!) and I will update my notes here if I discover anything new. For those who want the link for as long as it's working, this takes you to the right page: www.mcmaster.com/urethane but there is still a little clicking to do from there. I really appreciated the video above, so I hope this helps other people who had the same questions I had. 👍

I like that dental wet dry grinder lol.

cool idea

Seems like these videos are 5 years old and nothing recent posted, but if the uploader ever sees this, the appreciation level for these videos is really up there. 💙

You need tin bashers players. Very good videos I would not think of using rubber for your press. You are right about the jack.

Why do the main spar lightening holes not get flanged?

Good job. I once worked for a company name General Forming. This is known as Hydroforming. We did it on a much larger scale. Rubber under pressure flows like water.

THANK YOU!!! This is gonna save me SO much time on my Patrol ribs!

这种设计太棒了

Will the pressure break the mold?

Does the neoprene rubber have a hardness scale and are they both 1” thick?

By doing this type of rib's forming, you have fucked up with aerodynamic performance of rib's skeleton........lol

I have th same press and jack; watching you work has inspired a much needed, and appreciated upgrade. I'm going to look for a small foot or hand actuated valve I can plumb into some hydraulic hose of the right size so a fitting can be put on the end, and replace the hand valve on the jack. My press is outside, but undercover, and when it's cold that valve on the jack bites into your hands so bad... of course, that's only when I don't have something in reach to open or close it. The problem is, with me, that's most of the time! lol I'll post the info on whatever valves I find for the press, in case, you want to do it, as well. I'm thinking foot release being the best, then you can be starting to get hands on with the material, as you are releasing the pressure. Enjoyed your vids. I'm cramming UA-cam vids on press forming, I want to do some, so I can do about forty feet of roofing I need to put a complicated end flange on. I've done about 6' by hand, and KNOW I don't want to do the rest by hand, and there amy be more, in the future as I'm not done with my roof, but about 50%. I'm having a difficult time picturing what I need to build to do a 15-27 foot long piece of roofing. I have to do it in sections, but I'm between doing the entire length a bit, then repeating, or doing entire press section in one go. Have to watch more metal forming, and get my head wrapped around it. Cheers...

I’m a fitter machinists and want to build my own plane great video

You are one smart cookie

20 ton? are you sure that's big enough. Nice job though.

thank you for taking the time to put this information online, look forward to seeing more of your build. I`m working on a Bearhawk B

GREAT VIDEO

Sweet!

When showing products like the chop saw blade, put a description/part number in the comments.

What kind of rubber did you use, and where did you get it?

I wear ear protection every time I use the router.

What is the status of this build? Did you complete it?