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Interesting video. Also saw a comment of yours about wanting to sell a drill press. Do you still have it? Where is it and how much do you want for it? Thanks!!!

You are Too Slow, ZZZZZZZZZz

Could you guide how to DIY coolant mist spray as seen on this video ....please ?

I only do intricate work with stones, crocus cloth and needle files but I love to work with brass.

Interesting strip down and analysis of the broken pump. In the UK the palletised water containers are called IBC containers. They are a cubic metre so that their volume is 1000 litres, which if water means each is 1 tonne. 300 US gallons is only a bit more than 1000 litres so I suspect they are the same thing. I made a video recently on capacitor selection for motors and included a simple theory based calculation to determine capacitor size. I did this for UK standard 240V 50 Hz and for North American 120V 60Hz as I am aware I have some viewers over the pond. I will put a link in to it. Here:- ua-cam.com/video/SLcDTMNzCiU/v-deo.htmlsi=EHiLIuOlgZMJNNI8

Nice job on making the replacement parts for the pump.

Id change the galvi coupling and nipple right before the check valve to stainless or brass

Well persevered. I don't like small threads like that in the lathe either, they always want to bend and flex their way around the tool. The thing is, I seem to have a bit of an aversion to using other methods, like the belt grinder, as you did. I am learning though that the lathe is not always the right tool for the task at hand. I enjoyed your video and I'm sure that the reel's owner was very happy with the result.

Talking down a rabbit hole during bad camera setup at 40:07, skip to 46:58 if you don't want to try and follow along. The talking is about a bunch of thoughts on valve details, priming, and the prior repair's makeshift shoulder bolt vs hardware I have on hand vs making new shoulder bolts. The next video will be making new shoulder bolts, should be out soon

Hi, what model QCTP is that your using?

Want more details? See ua-cam.com/video/vP_jt37WgmI/v-deo.html for an explanation of design and implementation considerations

For details on the VFD setup, see this follow-up video: ua-cam.com/video/9MttE9sSDg0/v-deo.html

Thank you for being the only person on the entire internet to explain what these do! I imagined it must be something like this, but apparently it's just a huge secret that nobody can talk about!

Anything else you would like brainstormed or have follow-up questions on? Let me know

I used an identical Harrison lathe at a community college back in the late '70s. Very nice lathe that was a pleasure to run. Would love to have one in my shop.

I literally just changed my garage door opener and was thinking that I might try to use it as a lift to my garage loft space. Thank you for posting this! Lots of think about.

UK changed to metric in 1965

For more detail on how this was wired using the original controls, see my explanation video at ua-cam.com/video/1gdxiR2k8Qk/v-deo.html

It always makes me chuckle when people think VFDs can do better than the good old mechanical variator.

I've got it back together (for the 10th or so time) and it's still skipping - it works fine for 4 or 5 cycles, then it doesn't turn the turret or it just turns it part way. Incredibly frustrating, and the weight of the parts just compounds it.

Ryan - at 49:46, there's a 1/2" dia. hole visible up and to the left of your left index finger; any idea what that's for, if anything? Also, I seem to have an extra set screw - did you find anywhere that was double set screwed?

🎉🎉🎉

I have one that has sort of the opposite problem, it doesn't leak out the handle, like to shut off the flow of air out the nozzile unless i push the handle back (doesn't spring back on its own)I imagine it may have a similar cause though, if it's not just a weak spring, the o-ring might be binding up in the bore rather than leaking. Guess i should take a look.

Excellent job.

Like what ou have done keeping the original switches. I have done exactly the same on my Hardinge. Not easy but well worth it.

Do you have the locking ring engaged with the lock plate?

A very interesting film. I am going through a similar mechanical challenge with the dismantling of my Harrison milling machine's gearbox.

Glad you posted this - I've got one with my new chippy that needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

Nice that your Harrison came with the capstan. Mine did not and I'm not willing to pay a grand for one.

Very cool setup. I wish I could get my hands on a Chipmaster!

Like what you did with the Vfd utilising the original controls. I put a Vfd on my Harrison M250 and I rebuilt the control panel using buttons and switches in keeping with the design and era of the machine. Incidentally, the 240 - 120 or 110 control transformer is common in the UK in both three phase and factory single phase machines. The contactors and interlock microswitches are fed from 110 and the transformer is centre tapped. The tap is earthed to the machine frame so that if the operator inadvertently touches a live cable or terminal then they can only receive a maximum shock voltage of 55 - 60 volts.

I have subscribed to your channel. I am in the UK, I have a workshop with tig gear, a Harrison M250 lathe and round column mill drill. Currently restoring a Harrison mill. I invite you to take a look at my content. I really enjoyed yours.

I have never seen a Colchester Chipmaster rebadged as Harrison before. You have some great machines. Very impressive. It is always nice to see Harrison or Colchester machines outside of the UK.

I've had one on my 9" South Bend for several years and I really like it. Hoping I can change out the backplate to mate it to my Chipmaster.

My brain fart about hammer/anvil -- clearly the handwheel is the hammer and the part that forms the outer race of the bearing is the anvil. I'll chalk that up to being short on sleep during a particularly busy week

Looks like a nice example of a Chipmaster lathe. Doing the VFD controls the way you have makes it much easier if someone in the future wants to return the machine to run on 3 phase power, all the electrical gear is still present, because its been in use it will work, just putting wires back to match the factory wiring diagram.

I just subscribed so I can find out if you find the cause and fix

Super cool. Great idea!

I ended up repairing the radiator myself - did not film it, but details are written up here. The radiator has passed a pressure test, should be reinstalling it soon. www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/radiator-repair-featuring-hockey-puck-turning-55kw-generator.107101/

How did you date the motor?

Pretty quiet really

Real nice good job keep up the hard work

That's a humdinger!

Am I seeing correctly that the brushes are only touching the rotor during startup?

Incredible work man.

Saw your "rust"eration of the pump, great work. I was going to suggest Rustoleum Rust converter spray for the junction box, but the grey is nice too.

Would like to see the scope shot zoomed in

Love this type of motor

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