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What this software can do is mind-bending and limitless! Thank you for opening Pandora's Box - but in a good way! Thanks and cheers from DownUnder 🦘

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Great Video! Thanks.

My phone has f/0.95 aperture 💀

Great tutorial! Just wondering if you have tried do this type of painting in Photoshop?

thank you kate

Does this app work in Landscape mode? Nothing more annoying than holding a 12.9in iPad in Portrait mode.

I've used Nik Collection 4 a little since I installed it a few years ago but mainly just Analog Efex Pro. I've just splashed out on Nik Collection 7 and am impressed by what it can do in the UA-cams I've watched. However, the intricacies of the various control point tools were a bit of a closed book until I watched this video. An excellent explanation! Next on my watch list are your other videos on the Nik Collection. Thank you and cheers from DownUnder 🦘

Great video, I have never used film type. I do not want any grain or noise they add. I have been using Nik since it was free many, many years ago.

Does the histogram bit only work in Apple? I can't get mine to show up.

Great tips! Adding the “why” to your points really helps! You can use the slider on the magic wand tool also - try it - sometimes that’s all you’ll need. Also, the iPhone tends to over-sharpen so reducing sharpness can sometimes help.

How can this be changed in regular photos mode, and also how come some portrait mode pictures don’t give you the portrait button, after the fact, to allow you to turn ƒ completely off?

My daughter loves to take pictures in downtown Charleston. Street photography is not my forte, but I try my best to stretch a little, and really enjoy outings with my daughter. I never thought about going after a rainstorm, but that sounds like a great idea. My daughter's creativity would do well with a challenge like that. Actually, after mentioning this video to her, she showed me a few great images she took downtown of puddle reflections she took on one of our outings. I have gone out with a single purpose in mind before. A couple of trips to Cypress Gardens to photograph wood ducks, leaving the macro equipment in the car and ignoring the gators and other birds. I did get some of my best wood duck images with these outings. I generally like to be ready to switch to whatever presents itself when I'm out, but going with a specific goal in mind is a great learning technique. You had some great reflection photos there.

Thank you so much! making some pet portraits.

thanks for showing this. i must admid the edit of the first picture is horrible. extremly over edited and looks just awful. the other edits are great :)

Super video! I'm really torn about buying this software because you have to buy the whole package and I'm really interested in B&W only. I rarely use presets for color (although maybe I should?). Would you take the plunge and buy this just for the B&W? I know - tough to say but I appreciate your thoughts.

useless video, its all paid apps

....thank you for your easy to understand and follow tutorial....

Excellent. My take away to start, from this, Look for the Pretty Shot first, then learn the hard/honest way as you go along. Thank you.

I recently found your channel and have enjoyed a few of your videos. I’m impressed with your style of presentation. Keep up the good work. I’m a subscriber. I wanted to comment on your suggestions in this video. Every one of the tips was spot on! I can relate personally to several of them. No, actually all of them at one time or another. So note to you beginners out there (and many of you not so beginners) take these ideas to heart and get out there, take some shots and learn.

some good tips here but the commentary sounds like every 2 nd sentence is a question,a bit hard to maintain interest.

I shot 1200mm most of the time and my standard shutterspeed is 1/2500 for birds in flight and that seem to be working fine for me with big/medium sized birds.

I've been trying bird photography for about a year now and these tips are valuable. Thank you. Excellent video.

Excellent video but I have a question. When using Silver efex 7 I notice a significant increase in grain/ noise. Any idea why? Since I shoot a lot of long exposures, I normally set my ISO to 64. Thanks in advance.

Nice video. Thanks for sharing.

I would like to see a video of shooting from a kayak.

Most of this is not true. The storage piece is accurate, but if you’re willing to pay the extra $10/mo for the storage, you do have a gallery. Additionally, the features described here exist in the new Lightroom, they are just called different things, and it would benefit users to learn how to use them in the new format. For example - you can create “versions” to switch back & forth from in the new Lightroom, which act as a virtual copy. Additionally, there are specific plugins for Lightroom & you can click & drag pop out windows to other monitors as well, you just have to click to pop the window out. There is also edit history located next to the undo redo buttons, Clicking on it will show a drop down of edits. You can additionally input presets to Lightroom very easily - or create your own. Many UA-cam videos on how to do so with a simple cursory search. The true things are simply tether & print if those are important to you.

great points. enjoyed it. I'm also been trying to do more bird photography. I recently bought the sony a6700 over my a7riii . Are finding the 26mp is enough for printing out good pictures at lets say 11x17 or a little bigger. I also bought the sony a7iv and I curious to find if the bird auto focus mode is better on the 6700. any thoughts on that. thanks

Great tips. I usually shoot at 1/2000 but I will definitely give the higher speeds a try.

The one thing to keep in mind when photographing birds like Herons and Egrets is while they are perched or moving while looking for food is that the bodies are somewhat tall but not wide until the go into flight they have a large wingspan and the birds stretch so parts of the bird may be out of the frame.

Your tips are so useful for Beginners like me keep motivating thankyou so much

Fantastic summary, thanks Kate, I've also been using this tool for about 15 years, you have filled in a few gaps in my knowledge and I also appreciated you talking through your workflow. Keep up the great work, awesome!

I don't do photography "challenges" as that sounds much to competitive...lol. Instead I assign myself photography projects. I live along coastal British Columbia on Vancouver Island. And currently I'm working on two projects. The first is shooting in coastal BC forest with very large tall trees, translation - even on a sunny, no clouds day, it can be darker in the forest. This interestingly is my favourite light as I can get some rembrandt type photos. My second project is shooting very large ponds whatever that entails. Often shooting ducks in the water, but today for example, I spent an hour and half taking pictures of a turtle basking. About three weeks ago at the same pond, shooting bullfrogs. And two months ago, shooting fawns that meandered into my pond area.

Thanks for some good pointers. Lovely images. Do you modify your shutter speed depending on the availability of image stabilization? I am also quite tremulous and wonder how much I would benefit from better IS..

Its funny, I actually sort of felt the opposite for lesson 1. Bigger birds are harder to make good images of. Not because of the movement, it definitely takes more agility to capture smaller birds, but for three specific reasons: 1) Small birds are way easier to find, for every Heron or Eagle I see, I encounter hundreds or thousands of small songbirds so you just get way more opportunities to practice on them. 2) They are way more tolerant of humans. No bird is going to be brave, but I find small songbirds will happily land close to you if you are quiet and still. An eagle will NEVER do that. I find its WAY easier to fill the frame with a small bird than it is a big bird, even when at like 500mm just because the big birds are so much more timid. You will also find the big birds tend to always face "away" when they know a human is around, not always, but its super common for an Eagle or an Osprey to always be facing in the direction of escape which is away from you. 3) Its way easier to cream out the background with a small bird and create a pleasant composition in an otherwise unpleasant scene. I have yet to ever take a shot I like of a Great Blue Heron because those guys always like to stand right near shore beside tons of distracting twiggs, branches, etc. It may be easier to get the big birds, sharp, in frame, but its way harder to take gorgeous shots of them. (And unless you are walking around with a $20,000 exotic, it ca be really difficult to leverage depth of field). After years of trying I FINALLY managed to make a shot of a swan that I liked last winter after spending 4 hours lying on the ice freezing waiting for them to finally float into a composition I liked. Personally, my best advice for people looking to have a breakthrough for bird photography is to get a canoe. It may seem like an odd recommendation but for whatever reason most birds are WAY more tolerant of a human in a canoe or kayak than they are of one walking. (I think the shape confuses them and they just don't see it as a threat but idk) You will find you can get way closer to subjects from the water and since most birds tend to prefer wetlands the canoe usually works quite well. :) Great video! :)

Great tips, and I like the humility you demonstrate by emphasizing your journey as a beginner. Unfortunately (but maybe fortunately) my birding has had to start with hummingbirds. Ultra small, ultra fast, and I have encountered wing blur even at 1/5000 of a second! Amazed me! But to your point about learning their habits, I have learned some useful things in the last year that has allowed me to get some decent shots of BIF and of them fighting for territory with each other. Cheers!

I had to relearn focussing coming from my Canon 7D & 1D3 to my R7. I really struggled at first. Setting the viewfinder to the fast update rate was key, and then I had to understand how to use the subject detection vs zone focus and when to activate tracking or not. All this is controlled by customising buttons. Now it is easy as can be. But it is a totally different approach than what I used before. With the dslr , I aimed and started focusing. With the mirrorless, I get the bird in the viewfinder and the camera identifies the bird and focusses, or I override that by using a button to tell it to focus where I am aiming and forget about trying to identify the subject. Once I adjusted to this, birds in flight was back on the menu and I now rarely miss. I love it. Doesn’t do anything for my crappy compositions unfortunately!

For most newer cameras you limit the maximum ISO so it doesn't go too high when using auto ISO.

Another useful tip, if you have a garden, at least 1 or more bird baths of feeder stations will provide many more opportunities to shoot small fast birds! nice video thanks..

Nice video you did a great job

Auto ISO in manual is also important.

Great summary of all these issues!! Just a note that the SanDisk Extreme PRO SD card actually has a "Super-fast write speeds of up to 260MB/s ..." , not 300MB has implied by SanDisk which eliminated the write speed from its card label. This is a actually pretty typical write speed of these higher end SD cards although a few vendors advertise a write speed of 280MB/s. The read speed has its own limitations as a special SD reader (e.g. not the one on your computer) is required to achieve the 300MB/s transfer speed.

Have you ever done a photography challenge of your own? How did it go?

Hi, first time seeing one of your vids and found it very informative, especially the shutter speed, I tend to only go to a max of 1/2000 no matter the bird size bug thing I will try tne higher speeds and see how it goes. I'm glad you enjoyed watching the chicks grow up, isng it fascinating! For the past two years I've been watching and recording a family of swans and love how they get from these little balls of feathers into massive swans! I have also subscribed.

I joined 3 different birding groups since January and it’s been great!

EXCELLENT! I found the 3 Ps to help with my bird photography 1) Position. If in the mountains, use the hillside elevation to be at or slightly below the eye level of the bird For perched birds and waterfowl, they typically lift off into the wind so position yourself with the wind at your back. For waterfowl the camera positioned at the water level and using the flip screen often improves the background boca and eye catchlight. 2) Planning. Plan your position so the animal naturally comes towards you in a still position. With waterfowl, they sometimes have favorite roost locations they fly into every night. With songbirds, they often have favorite territorial perches they use for singing. Zone autofocus for birds in flight, eye detection and tracking for perched birds. 3) Patience. Patience and let that "magic moment" happen naturally and the bird does not know you are there.. In a vehicle along a refuge dike, a camo net draped over an open window can be a makeshift blind. For waterfowl, a portable camo popup blind is excellent for very close shots.

I chose Pentax because I had a bunch of older PK mount lenses. That were actually Rico K mounts. The odd Ricoh version has a pin that drops into the Pentax AF screw for AF.. However, once I had the camera, I sought compatible lenses. GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) kicked in. Some newer lenses, plus some older Tamron Adapatall lenses I loved in the 80s and 90s. MUCH more affordable now... Though, yeah, I bought too much... But I have found a use for most, and have given some to my daughter and girlfriend. And soon, my oder grandkids will get some...

Great advice. Another suggestion is to find good places to photograph birds in your area, then find out if they have yearly memberships. Most are not that expensive, but if you have paid for a years entry, you will likely spend more time there in order to get your money's worth from your membership. Of course, some places are free entry, but in my area many of the best spots are in parks that have entry fees. Another advantage is that the membership may come with perks such as early entry times for members only. That means you can be there when the sun is coming up.

As you quickly found out, Small Obscure Birds are real SOB's to photography.

One thing that I know with birds is to go to a place and where there are a lot of birds. It just increases your odds of getting a good photo. I have a Panasonic bridge camera with a very long focal length. It allows me to change the zoom quickly and that also changes the perspective. I use this camera on my daily dog walks. I then come back with my Panasonic G9ii and a 100-400 telephoto. Both the lens and the camera are stabilized so it is possible, depending on conditions, to hand hold this combination. Since the P9ii is a micro 4/3's, the range of the telephoto is actually double, 200-800. The bridge camera is not as fast and has contrast focus so I don't always get the bird but then at least I am ready for it. I use Topaz AI to get rid of noise and to increase contrast if I need to.