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The keel is the size of the original plans found on rcgroups in the foamies section, as is the servo location. I’ve found “prop-in-slot” designs to generally be noisier than most other designs. It’s not necessarily a function of the prop type, but the air disturbances caused by the slot. Really common, just as pusher-prop designs are louder than puller-prop designs. Here is the original thread on rcgroups: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1685988-SUPER-EASY-great-flying-foamy It isn’t a design that is made for super high performance. It’s just a good, stable flyer that is simple to build and a lot of fun to fly. This is the second one I’ve built and I’ve found that it’s a great one to get up in the air, get some good altitude, and then hand the controls to a beginner. Go check out the thread.

I believe I used my Insta360 Go 3 on this one, however I might have been using my iPhone 15.

@@bobjosjor8307 Thank you

It’s an xTool D1 20 watt diode laser.

You're welcome! I hope something in there will be useful for you.

I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!

Thanks! These particular friends are heart siblings to me.

HA! I hadn't thought about Ted Turner colorizing for a long time now! I'm glad that craze passed fairly quickly!!

It was fairly light for the ballast I had in, but it would gust occasionally. I would say 8mph with gusts to 14 or so. That's a pretty shallow and short little hill and far from ideal, but my friends that live in the house right there wanted to see how a slope soarer works so I obliged ...... within the limit of my abilities. 🙂

That's one of the nice things about experimenting with tile projects: The tile is cheap. :-) I think these larger ones were about a buck each.

I’m going to have to admit that I don’t have answers for these questions. I’ve treated them like I do Norton White Tile method tiles…… that is, I’ve not done any sealer. They haven’t faded any, at least not yet. I suppose they would fade or bleed if exposed to alcohol as they are alcohol based inks. I do know that the alcohol inks are pretty resilient. The few times I’ve gotten some on my skin, it takes a LOT of scrubbing to get it off, even if I do use alcohol to scrub with.

I always spray a couple of coats of clear lacquer to seal mine and protect the colours. It works very well.

Turned out it was actually a radio error: Loose nut behind the joysticks. 🙂

@@bobjosjor8307 was that the final word from the NTSB? :)

To use on wood, I generally dilute it with denatured alcohol. I'd like to tell you an exact ratio, but it really depends on how intense you want the color. I will say that a little bit goes a long way. I apply it with a cheap disposable foam brush. Depending on the color and intensity, I may do more than one coat. It dries really quickly and is ready for a top coat or to be cut within 15 minutes or so.

I think I mentioned it at the end, but it's an xTool D1 Pro 20 watt laser. Thanks for checking it out!

​@@bobjosjor830720W Diode laser at 30mm/s?

I knew there was a bit of bleed with Sharpies and water, but your comment made me curious about the alcohol ink as I hadn't tested it. I just took a tile over to the sink and scrubbed a dyed area with a scrub brush and the color stayed put. I kind of figured as much since the alcohol dyes are advertised as waterproof and any time I've accidentally gotten a bit on my finger, it hasn't disappeared until new skin takes it's place. 🙂

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try your method.

Thanks! I haven't personally taken a metal detector out there, but there are plenty who have and many of their findings are in museums in our area, the most extensive of which is about 10 miles west of this flying spot. www.nps.gov/places/000/ash-hollow-state-historical-park.htm

You are welcome! Have fun with the project.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks 👍

Why do you think I haven't spent hours on a simulator? Simulators do some good, but they are no replacement for the actual act.

@@bobjosjor8307 thats very true

I’ve been pleased with it and enjoy the way it flies. I would recommend not waiting and getting the flaps installed as it helps a lot on take off and landing. From the factory the horizontal stab is a bit loose, in my opinion, but that hasn’t really effected flight. Still, I’ve gotten a piece 3D printed that I think will help. Other than that, I have no complaints at all and would buy it again.

​@@bobjosjor8307thanks for the video! I just picked one of these up. Haven't built it yet, but did a rough assembly to see how everything fits and I also noticed the tail being much more loose than I like. I was thinking about glueing it but would much prefer a 3D print. What did you use to help stiffen it up?

@@michaelkryszak5262 , do a search on thingiverse.com and there is a good tail brace there. I don't have a 3D printer, but I know someone locally that has one. I paid them to make the print for me and it was pretty cheap.

If my playing was worth hearing, I'd do it more. As it is, consider yourself spared. :-)

Alex T, a solid top guitar uses a single, solid piece of wood for the top (the part the bridge and strings are attached to). Many guitars in this price range have a laminated to comprised of several layers of wood, basically plywood. Solid top guitars, in general, have a better, richer tone.

@@yandasmobilemusicstoreinc6989 Thanks. I had no idea.