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EMA
Приєднався 24 гру 2013
Відео
Fixing the Bowmaster MP5 Nozzle once and for all
Переглядів 2715 місяців тому
Fixing the Bowmaster MP5 Nozzle once and for all
How To Swap Magazine Release Spring on SCW9 Pro G
Переглядів 2007 місяців тому
How To Swap Magazine Release Spring on SCW9 Pro G
HOW TO Disassemble SCW9 Pro Magazine
Переглядів 2877 місяців тому
HOW TO Disassemble SCW9 Pro Magazine
VFC MP5 V2 Bolt Break and Front Sight Fix
Переглядів 2,1 тис.11 місяців тому
VFC MP5 V2 Bolt Break and Front Sight Fix
[How To] Convert VFC Inlet Valve to Dual Stage
Переглядів 150Рік тому
[How To] Convert VFC Inlet Valve to Dual Stage
Testing a new Green Gas Magazine by MaxTact.
Переглядів 328Рік тому
Testing a new Green Gas Magazine by MaxTact.
Bowmaster 2023 NPAS V2 - Initial Impressions
Переглядів 684Рік тому
Bowmaster 2023 NPAS V2 - Initial Impressions
I have a variant of the scw as my first gbb and it's interesting seeing you troubleshoot the fire control group. Nice work! Do you happen to know if the fire control group components for the scw is proprietary or compatible with standard gbb m4s?
SCW FCG parts like the hammer spring, disconnector + spring, trigger + spring can be swapped into other VFC V3 M4s. A VFC V3 M4 hammer can be used in the SCW9, but the SCW9 hammer cannot be used in other VFC V3 M4s because the hammer is too wide.
Your wear on the in-battery sear seems weird to me, I have 2 scw9 but show no wear in that part (full auto sear is not correct as this works also on semi) Otherwise, good analysis of the malfunction, great video. Maybe shave a bit of time off next time
The sear is called a trip-lever, I use the terms synonymously though. The sear has very little wear compared to the hammer. The issue is that you can't fix the damage to the hammer and trying to do so will make the issue worse. The easiest solution was to modify the sear. Condensing the video and being thorough is always hard. I will keep that in mind though.
Nice
Just perfect. I wasn't quite sure how to take out the handles by looking at the diagram. You did everything step by step with explanations. Thank you!
I'm fairly new to gbbr.. Thank you, this helps. Any other tips? Like adjusting the hop-up
Nobody cares
I do actually
It's amazing how similar this is to the "real" HK trigger group. I don't have an MP5 but I do have an HK 91 and it is uncanny.
In firearms, the behavior you are talking about is called "hammer follow" and it usually will not set off the next round because the bolt (being much more massive relative to the strength of the spring pushing on it) is moving much slower than the hammer would normally move and so it prevents the hammer from reaching full speed. The sear you point out is called a "safety sear" or an "auto sear" or a "connector". "Safety sear" comes from the fact that even in semiauto, it prevents the hammer from dropping until the round is fully in battery. Auto sear is obvious. "Connector" is because initially when the hammer gets re-cocked, the trigger doesn't release it even if still pulled (so the trigger is "disconnected") but when the "connector" is tripped, the trigger once again influences the hammer (lets it fall if the trigger is still pulled). I am curious about why an airsoft gun goes to all the trouble of having this mechanism. Isn't the BB actually propelled by an electric air pump? What does the hammer do?
Thanks for the info. The BB is actually propelled by the gas released from the magazine since these are gas blow back rifles (GBBR). Typical gases used are Propane, Polypropylene, C02, or compressed air with a regulator limiting output usually between 50 - 200 PSI. Auto Electric Guns (AEG) and some HPA, use a battery to activate a compression mechanism, piston, to compress the air behind the BB and propel it. The hammer in the GBBR, once dropped, hits a follower. The follower strikes the release valve on the magazine allowing the gas pressure to vent into the nozzle which will propel the BB and at the same time build up pressure within the nozzle to cycle the bolt.
@@ema1671 thanks for the explanation.
Can you put a hpa valve on those magazines?
@@CMBelite-FR Yes, it's a standard WE/ VFC valve. Just use a shredder valve designed to fit that spec.
Why am I here
because you clicked on the video
I wonder if this could be related/connected to the issue I've been having. Also a heavy round count on mine. When I fire in semi, the BB getting chambered gets farted out of the barrel when the bcg returns into battery. PS. Love your content, very glad you're making stuff for the yama!
Without even pulling the trigger or releasing the hammer? Sounds like it's not being held in front of the air nozzle properly. I would check the hop, which is essentially the only thing holding the bb in place at that stage in the cycle.
@@bisterkding9249 I've replaced the hop rubber a few times hoping it would help. It did when I replaced the initial VFC blue rubber, but hasn't helped since. Currently running a ML MR hop for the contact patch. I've replaced the recoil rod, nozzle, nozzle return spring, and nozzle cross pin due to the NPAS putting a dent in it. I haven't replaced the recoil spring yet. I've been considering adding a small buffer to see if maybe the spring has weakened and is allowing bolt bounce, but slow-mo video didn't show any bounce...
@@treesleavedents use these to prevent you nozzle pin being damaged by the gub screw. You I use the M3x7. accu-components.com/us/nylon-tip-set-screws/1488-SSN-M3-7
@@ema1671 Thank you!!! These will be perfect for my TTI hop chambers that use set screws to stabilize the chamber against the frame!
I had to take the trigger group out because one bb ended inside the grip and the little piece that press the sear catch just fell off. Your video helped me to identify where it should be. thanks! (0:32 Is the pin tensioned by the spring in front of the trigger.)
I haven't had any feeding problems so far. I have the problem that boldstop doesn't work. And I don't know why. The nozzel is intact... either my magazines have too much play in the slot or there is something wrong with the magazine followers. Do you hat some issus liken that before ?
Have you tried out the 3d printed solution yet?
No, I have the print but never installed it. I just completely removed the front cap and decided to run it like the Gen1 that has a reciprocating charging handle and is completely hollow in front of the bolt.
@ema1671 does that require any complex modifications?
@@jeffbgeholt6153 no, you just remove the two piece charging handle and then replace the pin in the bolt with the new charging handle. You can find the 3D print on Cults.
@@ema1671 Sorry for going this long without replying, but I wanted to ask about the reciprocating charging handle. What charging handle have you used to do this? I love the idea of running it like a gen 1, but I can't seem to find a drop in single sided charging handle that'll fit.
Where did you get the red thing clamp? Thanks
my magazine keeps dispelling too much gas per fill, i only get around 10-12 shots before the efficiency goes down and can't cycle, all of this in room temps, just unsure of whats wrong
Watch my other video talking about how to purge and fill magazines. The green gas/propane bottle has to have a higher temp = pressure than the magazine or it won't fill. Also any air in the magazines should be removed. The best option is to just use 2-stage inlet valves on your magazines because they will bleed off excess gas and allow you to properly fill the magazine.
Bro! Thanks to you, I was able to repair my SEF lower where the BB bullet went inside and all the springs were destroyed. Even after a year, I am still very grateful.
Can you show the spring placement please?
Did you do any testing checking the FPS with the stock gas router and a Laylax/Nineball one?
Yes the FPS increased but the laylax routers where causing cycling issues on all of my VFC GBBs so I don't use them.
@@ema1671 OK. Thanks. I plan to use these mags in a TM. If the Nineball routers bump up the FPS a bit, I think I'll install them then as there shouldn't be any cycling issues in a TM I wouldn't have thought.
Is the gas route same as the vfc glock?I lost my gas route when i disassemble the mag😢
Yes
@@ema1671 Thanks you very much
Hey bro I have the HK53 which is an evolution of the MP5 from vfc. I have this issue where it seems like the tip of the reciever sticks PAST the little lip on the inside of the front sight that the threaded plug is supposed to press down on. The result is that even with the plug screwed in all the way, the front sight remains loose. I was curious if that’s a thing on the MP5 as well and if that’s part of the problem you’re trying to solve
Yes, a lot of the issues with the MP5 carried over to the HK53 platform as well. I intended on getting one but once I realized it really was just a bigger MP5, issues and all, I decided not to purchase it. The issue can be minimized with an appropriate sized o-ring. It has enough squash to pressurized the front sight enough so it doesn't move.
Hi! tell me, which gun fits the nozzle? and how durable is the native nozzle?
Thank you I’m definitely on a list after this
i have 2 of these and both have had the same issue. its an expected issue, going into full auto on semi at times. i replaced the hammer (just the hammer) on one and it fixed it until it inevitably happened again. i expected it to break but it happened quite quickly, same with the other. im considering getting a steel replacement hammer set and i think any g18 or aap set will do but i was wondering if you have had such issues after using yours for quite some time, and if you made upgrades to the hammer set after this video was posted?
I haven't touched the 18C hammer assembly in a while but iirc that issue is because the hammer sear is not catch/holding the hammer. You gotta check that the trigger bar is not getting stuck, that the hammer sear is making full travel and that the hammer is being held by the hammer sear.
i know that issue ive butchered mine and put it back together im even using a g17 hammer assymbly thats modified so i can full auto so whats broke on your case is the disconnector for the hammer thats being pushed by the trigger bad on the right side if thats stock that gets worn out too change it to steel and that problem is fixed. i had the aap and this unit and i sold my aap just because the we galaxy is just better once u reinforced the brittle parts. brittle parts are the extractor on the bolt it breaks alot u need a steel on thats being cnc luckily ctm makes those for 7$ each the next one that breaks is the guiderod screw assymbly good thing here in the phillipines someone made out of steel which i upgraded too. and its been 2-3 years since i had mine and it never broke again. i also got a carbine kit with a 500mm inner barrel and a red hand guard. over all my experience with this unit once u illuminated the probllems out of the box is very good. i made my dmr galaxy to shoot 5j using propane. i also have a gold one that shoots 3j with a 200mm inner barrel with the same upgrades.
Solid build, would the slide fit on a sai blu? (WE Tech) or would i have to buy a brand new vfc 19x?
@@DIS3Clips The slide is made specifically for the 45. The 19X is just a Tan 45 so it fits no problem. I don't know if it will fit on the WE 19X.
@@ema1671 might just move over to the vfc platform or something that interacts with aap01 and we mags so i dont have to re-buy the mags i have then. I like how compact it is, perfect for cqb
@ema1617 just assembled the slide on a g45 and its beautiful, running into the issues with the catch slide mentioned @3m, what spring would you recommend? Should i shave off a coil or two from the current spring?
@@DIS3Clips I actually used a cut down nozzle return spring from a TM/WE G series. I wouldn't recommend modifying the original part. Mainly because it's an original part and you want something to return to in case other mods don't work. Also because shortening the main spring might cause the opposite of what the mod is trying to achieve.
Does the extended mag have any feeding issues? Ive had a few aap mags that wont properly feed bbs and get stuck on the loading port.
Clean build man. How is the slide to frame fit compared to original slide?
@@chiehhan610 There are gaps between the barrel and slide. The fitment wasn't that great either leading to the slide hitting the hop unit on the original setup.
Great video. Question...I'm looking to replace the factory trigger itself with a flat trigger. Seems like i should be able to do so with much disassembly, correct? Meaning I should be able to work around the other parts, I hope.
How did u install the new trigger?
I’m new to gas guns and I just have an SCW-9 with the b&t mags. Should I do that purging trick before the start of each game day? I haven’t heard of it before, but it makes sense. Also, since the b&t mags have the straw, if I understand you correctly, they are hard to overfill because the liquid in the straw will start spitting out prematurely. I’ll probably give this video another listen through.
@@TacoSlayer06 You only need to purge the magazine once of air since it will be empty of propane and only if air enters the magazine after that. The SCW9 magazine does not have a dual-stage valve.
Your visual displays are magnificent, good lighting and steady hands. Thanks for the information.
Not everybody has to be a go hard to be a good tech or an entertainer, because it's the information that we seek even though it is entertaining. You have what it takes to help secure airsoft content for more than just rage quits or goofy disputes after all isn't it the equipment that gave us interest in the sport anyway.
whats up bro. Nice video! can you share the link where you bought this bb. Thanks
This is the website I got it from, unfortunately that Ceracote option is gone. www.proactstore.com/
Did you have difficulty taking the suppressor apart the first time? Mine seems like its red loctited and extremely difficult to open
Yea I set mine in some boiling water to loosen it up. I can't remember if it had loctite but it was definitely stuck on.
thanks for the video
Hello, did you experience double feeding issues with these mags?
No, I know of this being an issue some people have had with these mags that eventually goes away.
Can you make a video of disassembling the magazine?
It should be there now.
Question: I just got the MP5K PDW and straight out the box it seems to have a feeding issue where by the bbs tend to fall out the end of the barrel. It’s as if they are being pushed into far as putting one in manually works just fine and of course give it a little nudge forward and it falls out. So could your cocking tube mod help or is there something more fundamental going on with mine? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. BTW: Great vids as I have been watching all your MP5k ones while waiting for mine to arrive
Rotate the hop wheel counterclockwise to add more hop. That should hold the BB. With zero or little hop the BB will fall out the barrel.
@@ema1671 Ahh yes of course - it's probably turned to minimum out the box - I will give that a try - many thx
And yes that was exactly it - definitely one of those "Doh!" moments
Can I buy only Suppressor separately ??
I think OctagonAirsoft still has some in stock.
@@ema1671 Thanks !
Steel screw will always be better than Titanium. Titanium is much softer
Not all steel is harder than titanium. If you want a harder steel screw you need to find some stainless steel.
Hi, is the screw for bolt stop on your bolt is hard to unscrew?
Yes, use heat to loosen then unscrew.
@@ema1671 Hi, mind to share which grade of Titanium screw you used?
One question, what nozzle and npas do you recommend for the mp5k? I have seen the previous videos and you do not recommend the bow master one (I purchased it before watching your video and I regret it...)
I have another video explaining how to create an NPAS for the MP5.
@@ema1671 Do you use the original nozzle? I saw that you used the npass piece but it was metal
@@ema1671 ohh okeyy i see you use de bow npass, thx!!
Where can I buy like your MP5K stock
I bought that off a friend.
Did you had to sand down the red nozzle like you did on the original one?
No
Thanks for sharing, I purchased the trigger box and somehow I dropped it and every single pieces came out and I just kept them in and never touched them for 2 years.... Finally I assembled them and I can use it for the spare.
Just dipping my foot into non-oem mags.... Will this be compatible with AAP-01? I get confused by the elite force vs WE/TM g-series compatibilty nonsense.
Yes, but it AAP01 expects a flat router and this magazine has curved routers. So you would have to swap the router to get optimal performance. Otherwise you lose a little FPS and bolt lock isn't guaranteed.
Awesome, thank you. That was one of the problems I was thinking I would run into.
@@TheHavnmonkey hello did you try it on aap01?
Where can I get that piece that catches the nozzle and pulls it out of the hop up?
Evike.com
@@ema1671can u link it exactly
@@Chibibola buy it at ctm dont buy the ones made by we they will break again
did you cerakote your slide?
I purchased it online with a company that had used Cerakite brand.
@@ema1671was it a private company? because VFC paints their slides instead of cera kote
@@headlessproductions8908 Yes, the slide was sand blasted and Cerakote was applied.
Is there any difference between the purple nozzle and the black aluminum nozzle?
The purple nozzle has an NPAS, the black does not.
have you had a problem with the nozzle carrier(slider)? mine looks really worn and it stick some times.
No, I haven't had an issue like that.
Thanks!
Great!