Відео

At www.motorpromo.nl I am not sure if they still sell this engine.

Dank voor het kijken, en veel plezier met de Supra!

Around 2.5 liters per 100 km at a cruising speed of 50 km/h.

@@Carnold_YT Uf, it's a lot for a 50cc. Happy Holidays!

Thank you so much!

Over here, the car comes without a spare wheel. Only a tyre repair kit and a compressor.

@@Carnold_YT Many Thanks.

This version comes with a tyre repair kit - it's a weight save thing. I'd prefer to have emergency wheel (a.k.a. donut).

Only if you live in an area where you have real winters, or when you often drive on unpaved roads. It really depends on your situation.

Yes, it uses the Toyota power split device. No belts, no chains, a very smart and utterly reliable system.

Thank you for watching!

Yeah, I expected much better quality, especially because it's made in Germany. Did you have Lego trains too?

I will test it again, with a 10 watt bulb in the circuit. I should have tested it that way, because that is how I tell students to test wires and circuits 😬

You have to remove the plate under the bumper and engine, then you can access the rear of the fog light. It's a normal halogen lamp, there is a yellow cover over it that makes the light yellow. It is quite a bit of work.

You're welcome Joe!

Thanks for your comment Thomas, I hope your new Crosstrek serves you well!

Nippon Denso is the OEM supplier, the original sensors were still on the car 😉

Thanks so much!

I can think of several issues that cause such symptoms. Did you check the capacitors in the ECU? It also can be a fuel pump issue. I have a series of videos on these subjects, maybe they are helpful for you.

@@Carnold_YT thank you, I am checking them out now, I had the ecu checked and repaired by Josh At MotorsportzTX- I am in california- if it’s the fuel pump, I hope it’s available again- for a while it was out of stock. - thank you, thank you

Oh yes, they are great! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching, much appreciated!

High fuel consumption, bad performance, hesitation and stuttering while driving. These are the main symptoms.

Thank you! You too Mike!

Same to you!

Thank you so much, same to you!

Thank you so much Joe! Same to you!

Thank you so much for watching!

Hello Graham, thank you for the kind words! When it comes to big bore kits, I think you are better off with the original setup if you want the engine to last a long time. I have run a big bore kit in combination with the standard 50cc cylinder head. That resulted in a high compression and premature failure of the connecting rod bearing. If you are going to increase the bore, I would also recommend getting a cylinder head with a larger combustion chamber and valves. The only problem is, these cylinder heads aren't produced anymore. That's why I have returned to the original setup. Again, thanks for watching!

Hi Andy, thanks for your comment, good luck with your new Toyota!

I used Eurol ATF 1100. By the way, did you see the recent live stream? You won a little prize, can you send me an email on arnold@carnold.nl

It seems the smartphone app doesn't offer a landscape mode for the video Joe ☹️ I had the camera and microphone setup and then the wifi died just before I went live.

That was true last year Joe. It's 48 now 😊

Aline*

Which marks do you mean? The ones on the seat mechanism?

My first car was a Nissan and I have fond memories of that car. Until 2022 I have always owned a Nissan, so it's safe to say I like the brand. It would be very sad if the brand dissapeared - they make good cars. Really hope they survive. Thanks for your comments and the coffees. Very much appreciated!

@@Carnold_YT I love Nissans too, on my fifth now (the Juke Hybrid). I hope they survive too🤞. No worries on the coffees, loving your work 😁.

Hey Joe, do you like the updated Qashqai?

For the largest part: yes. There are differences between the UCF10 and UCF20 chassis, but in terms of maintenance, it is the same.

Thanks for your comment, much appreciated!

Hallo Rinze, bedankt voor je reactie. In de nieuwste versie gebruikt Nissan een voorkeuzetoets waarmee je direct alle gewenste rijhulpsystemen kunt in- of uitschakelen. Kortgeleden heb ik de meest recente versie getest, en dit specifieke punt benoemd: ua-cam.com/video/vxz_oe_wDUw/v-deo.htmlsi=1Oo9i99DfPe6zsOS&t=460 De Juke Hybrid is in de dagelijkse omgang een heel prettige auto, veel plezier met je nieuwe auto!

Thank you!

Ja, sorry 😊

I will test the vacuum lines too, thanks for your input!

@Carnold_YT Did you check for any OBD fault codes and live data? Another suspect part could be the o2 sensors.

Well, this is an OBD1 car, so it is very limited in the amount of codes it can display: only in decimals in units, so basically from 0 to 99. Only the engine, transmission, and traction control ECU can display fault codes. Whatever the cause of the acceleration issue is, it is not registered by any ECU. Non of the ECU's is able to communicate livedata (this came much later with OBD2). I am working on a diagnostic tester combined with an oscilloscope to monitor several engine-ECU data. But that is something for a future episode, don't want to spoil that just yet.

With my chain sprocket ratio (I have a 15 teeth sprocket in front), the engine runs at 7.500 revolutions at 50-55 km/h. That is my cruising speed. The engine can rev higher, but that will destroy it if you cruise often with more than 8.500 rpm. Thank you for watching!

You are correct, strange that I never noticed that during editing. Thanks for your comment!

Legend 👏

I can't thank you enough Joe!

Thank you for watching, much appreciated!

Thank you Mike, I appreciate your support too!

A torque wrench has a design parameter called the Loading Length, on this wrench it is shown by the ring on the handgrip. This is the Loading Point, and measurement, calibration procedures and use of the tool must have the Force Loading applied at this distance from the fastener drive axis. Unless a wrench is specifically designed to have no length dependency, Force Loading anywhere else will result in incorrect torque measurement.

In this case I wanted to check the torque wrench in Newtonmeters, that's why I measured it out in centimeters.

@@Carnold_YT Unfortunately there's an occasional commenter who has only heard of the measurement expressed per foot, and hence thinks the measurement should be made at the foot length, not thinking that by the same rule, a Newton-Meter measurement would have to be taken one meter from the drive center - obviously neither is correct.

Yes, it is a reliable bike if you don't tune the engine. If you're buying a used one, ask if the oil changes have been done every 2.500 km, and if the engine has been tuned. Especially the 70cc kits should be avoided. The best way to determine if a bike is worth considering (when you buy a used one) is to take a close look to the appearance: is it clean, are the wheels and spokes clean, is the chain clean and well lubricated. These bikes are reliable as long as they are well kept. Neglect is easy to spot, I would avoid those bikes if you're not technically inclined. But with a little bit of effort, you can turn a half decent bike into a reliable commuter bike.

@Carnold_YT I'm not technically inclined for now but there are not many choices to go after except this one for me. Pretty good advice over all, thanks!