Відео

I'm not sure about what the intention was. It is swiss made so I guess it's supposed to be metric, but the screw heads edges are all very slightly conical, because of the polishing probably. I'm not used to the imperial system at all so I couldn't come up with that idea, 2.35mm was the approximation found out by my micrometer, it was actually about between 2.35 and 2.36. Does imperial sockets of this size exist for sale on any market? I don't think it does even for metric, I've never seen that anywhere, I'd didn't even try to look it up haha.

Thank you!

Thank you so much! I'd like to show a bit more what it's like to work as a watchmaker these days, without spare parts, technical documentation and tools, on worn out luxury watches especially. I try to deliver pieces of information that you wouldn't find easily elsewhere, with the little knowledge that I have. In my daily job I always have to find new ideas on how to do and repair stuff that I am not supposed to repair or touch because it isn't made to be repaired or touched by random people like me. I'll try to show that more in the future. I don't think I am that good though, from my point of view I'm just decent, you could hope for way better than me haha!

@@LorenziLéo Finding your channel was a great find. I'm researching to buy my lathe because I really like restoring old watches, especially pocket watches, and I will clearly need to work on some pieces to be created and restored with appropriate techniques and tools. I wish you great success.

Thank you again! I found my lathe on eBay about 8 or 9 years ago, you will probably still be able to find some decent ones for a good price if you are patient. It's an old lorch from the 19th century, on a way more recent flume cast iron base. All the accessories seemed to be paired correctly. It is clearly not extraordinary but I'm using it every day to do anything I need, and it still achieves the 0.1mm holes like a charm. I've been able to repair so many crazy stuff with this lathe, it's actually amazing. I bought the milling mount separately, it's a Chinese accessory (the old lorch ones that I could find are always way too expensive, often more than I payed for the complete lathe) The dividing plates are bought whenever I found them on eBay and the fixture system is homemade. The second motor is a small vintage bergeon I think, pretty much the same as the flume one. The belts are rubber O-Ring gaskets (yes) The complete lot cost me about 2500€ I think, probably a bit less, and I spent years searching for bits and pieces. I really don't have any money to buy anything more serious lathe-wise haha If you are beginning, In English I have this book: "watch and clockmaking and repairing", which is a nice book for it shows a variety of techniques and skills on various topics, including lathe turning if I remember correctly (it's been a while) These types of books tend to not go very deep in each subject but they are nice if you lack ideas sometimes or if you want to be sure about how to execute a technique properly. Also some of the information is very old and everything isn't applicable on watches built today. The other books that I have are in french, but also most of them are very specific on certain topics, not sure you would need them to begin working on small things. Have fun!

@@LorenziLéo Very good! His tips were valuable. I keep an eye on ebay, I always look at the offers and analyze the prices. Holes measuring 0.10mm would be perfect for me. I'm currently reading and watching videos about lathe technique, as I've never done work on a lathe, but I've invented some tools at home that have allowed me to do a lot of repairs on my watches. My path led me to find the lathe and judge that it is the necessary tool for my next step. Yes, I'm taking advantage of Sunday to read the book you recommended. Thank you again.

Oui totalement, les moments où il ne tient pas en place c'est les moments où les soupapes sont déjà ouvertes.

Thank you for your comment! Sadly I don't think I could film this in any way as I need my head to be very close to the work I'm doing. I can't imagine a way to put the camera anywhere and being able to film whatever I'm doing here, since it's very close-up and I'm moving a lot. Though I can try to explain: When I work on sharp edges like these I don't try to look at the parts but I'm looking at the light behind it. The thing is too look at the light in between the workpiece and the disc you're working with. If there's any, you're not getting it flat. Try to get any white surface behind your work (a wall works well), and powerful light source directed on it, as it's easier to see. I'm not trying to lighten up the workpiece itself with the lamp but what I'm seeing behind. If there's any/too much light on the workpiece you won't be able to see the light behind.

@@LorenziLéo Thanks for answering bro 🙏🙏🙏

You're welcome!

Buongiorno, L'italiano non è una lingua che parlo, non so se scrivo correttamente con Google Translate. Avevo in mano solo questo modello, aveva un problema con lo scorrere dei minuti se ricordo bene.

I don't remember, I tend to change depending if the paper is worn out. From 180 to 240. I use plaster sandpaper mostly.

Bonjour, mon mail est visible si vous cliquez sur ma chaîne, quelque part dans la description. Si jamais, c'est lorenzi.leo@live.fr

It's not important, it's the cheapest I found in the local DIY store about ten years ago. I had to replace it after the motor died for the exact same model one year or so ago, but the brand name changed. You'll probably find the same machine under a variety of different names, that's why it's not important. Also, it's definitely the worst machine you could hope to put your hands on, as it's absolutely not made for this job and so it's difficult to obtain good results with it from the get go. The only good points are: -It's very cheap - It works, if you're able to takes quite big risks and if you're not afraid to take it apart sometimes.

Feel free to ask them. But pretty much everything I can think about is in the video already

You probably can't. Any decent watchmaker could replace the staff if it's broken, by making a new one or drilling/replacing the broken pivot. If it's literally missing I have no solution.

Hi! The tape is polyamide tape. For the grain it depends, I use some between 180 and 240, usually the ending one is 240. Sometimes 400 maybe.

@@LorenziLéo Thank you very much!!

Merci pour le commentaire! Je pense que c'est du 240 en effet

@@LorenziLéo merci beaucoup pour votre retour !! Et merci pour ce partage de belles pièces 🙌🏽

Merci pour l'info! J'en ai récupéré deux comme ça, celui-ci donne l'heure dans mon atelier. J'aime beaucoup les calibres à diapason en général.

Oui, je roule sans chicane et le bruit produit est assez absurde, le micro ne lui rend pas justice 😄

Merci pour votre commentaire ! Tout d'abord ce n'est pas une Tag Heuer, mais une Heuer tout court. Cette montre date du début des années 70. Ces mécanismes, produits par Buren, sont parmi les premiers chronographes automatique du monde, et ne sont plus fabriqués depuis longtemps. On pourrait même dire qu'il s'agit du premier chronographe a planche additionnelle, puisque il s'agit en fait d'un calibre Buren plus ancien, modifié puis produit pour y ajouter un chronographe par dessus. A l'inverse des modules additionnels d'aujourd'hui qui se montent entre le mécanisme et le cadran, celui de monte à l'arrière, comme si c'était un chronographe développé comme tel. Enfin bref, il n'y a plus de fabricants d'aucune pièce pour ce calibre et je n'aime pas enrichir les spéculateurs. Surtout, si possible, j'aime bien finir les montres que je commence, et ne pas les laisser en attente de pièces pendant des semaines.

C est tout a votre honneur, merci pour la réponse détaillée

@@jeanzx6r616 de rien !

Pas sur le djebel non! Ce modèle n'existe pas avec démarrage électrique. C'est avant 92 uniquement il me semble. Il existe en trois coloris différents à ma connaissance, le bleu/blanc, rouge/blanc, et un un peu différent en gris/rouge et blanc.

Tout un art le démarrage de cette moto (au debut). Après, je la demaŕrais du 1er coup, même à froid... jamais sans botte par contre 😂

Le.mec kick en Tong😂😂😂 adieu le tibia si tu te loupes

Déso de te répondre maintenant, mais pas tout à fait. Tu kick à aucun moment avec le décompresseur enclenché: Ça ne sert à rien Il faut descendre le kick doucement jusqu'au déclic du levier du décompresseur. Ensuite seulement la tu kick un bon coup et ça doit démarrer.

@@LorenziLéo merci pour ta réponse, c'est bon j'ai apprivoisé la vieille elle démarre parfaitement maintenant!! ouffff

Super! 😄 Amuse toi bien avec

Ça plus batterie bien chargée ça aide beaucoup 👍

Thank you very much for your comment! That's more or less a insider's joke, I understand that it might be hard to get the technical difficulties, but I thought the meme value could be interesting to share! To explain: There's a broken pinion. The pinion is broken because there's a screw that is too long sticking out of the upper module (actual chronograph module). The screw is stopping the date passing wheel (that comes right after) So I'm a clown 🤡 Then I litteraly throw the new parts in and "the end"

Je me débrouille ! Merci pour vos commentaires

Ça par contre, je le savais. Mais je ne suis pas un atelier Rolex ou quoi que ce soit d'autre d'ailleurs.

@@LorenziLéo cool vive les independants

@@alanaliyev456GT on survit comme on peut, merci de nous faire vivre! 😃

Haha, je ne connaissais pas cette nouvelle blague de leur part! 15 microns ça ne permet pratiquement aucun polissage sérieux si la montre présente des chocs ou la moindre rayure un peu profonde, ou pire si elle a été mal polie une seule fois. Et puis 15 microns où? Non vraiment, je doute de la véracité de cette information tant ça n'a aucun sens, et en même temps, c'est Rolex donc tout est possible. Comment enterrer les horlogers indépendants jusqu'au bout haha

@@LorenziLéo 20 microns d epaissur boite ⁹1/50mm d apres mon frere, . Oui mais eux la dessus sont totalement idiots.

@@LorenziLéo 15vmicron c est entre le trou de pompe et la pointe de corne. C ewt pour ça Rokex Je me tiens a ma vieille gmt 1675 et quelqurs vieilles OP et DJ . J ai trop vu de sub en clone trop bien faites en 904L avec un bracelet certe moins bon que les 2016 mais tellrment mieux que leurs boublds des annees 2000

Moi jaime pas c question vraies/fausses si Rolex meme declare fausse une vraie...... jprefere une Daydate de 1985 tout or... ou une dayto un peu vieille. Pour l instant on peux pas encore flouer un expert avec une Dayto ( flouer sans ouvrir je parle comme une superclone submariner sans date 200m Non distingable depuis 3/4 ans )

@@LorenziLéo j ai un ami au douanes d un pays du golfe ( ou passé un certain nombre d annees, un modele est replicable) et me avant ca passe. ( si c est qu une evo d un modele existant) les repliques a 400 $ ( depuis fin 2020) de deux fabricants ont une electrodeposition de platine dans la lunette. Comme là vraie..... plus les aiguilles or blanc et plots en platine. Soit 1 gramme de platine 950/1000 dans toute la montre. EN LARGE ESTIMATION ......et 0,5 grammes d Or gris 750/1000...... il s’ agit de pieces trop petites pour etre poinçonnées. (Nom poli pour dire des ’’chutes’’ vallant 50% du ’’vrai’’ tarif poinçonné. ) resultat il ya pour 13€ de platine et 22€ d’or gris dans les faux . 35 EUROS QUI CHANGENT TOUT. CE TYPE DE REPLICAS est tres dur voir impossible à ’’spot’’....... acheter une vraie devient meme sans interet comme une Diablo reelle ou une replica avec moteur v12 de bmw plus puissant que l”original.... ( on pourra toujours y foutre un mouvement jap Seiko quand le Seagull aura fait sa life..... vraie glasse Saphire.... acier 904L ....petites fournitures metal precieux.... ca devient de l”art.

You don't need to wait, check my most recent polishing video, it's already there.

You'll find all of this on my most recent polishing video! It's way longer of course but if you're interested it might be worth it. I wasn't doing any montage on all of my previous videos because the goal at the time wasn't to make any view or anything but it was just for me to be able to show my work easily to anyone interested IRL. Right now I'm in the montage process for a video about a Patek 5980, if you're interested be sure to follow! It will probably be done in the week.

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The noise is probably coming from the washing machine 😄

Les merdes en plastiques qui se vissent sur le carbu pour l'embout de câble de starter sur ces motos sont effectivement un enfer pour l'étanchéité et les prises d'air... C'est quasiment impossible de les démonter sans tout plier. Si c'est la raison de la surpression, je comprends. J'ai vu que ces pièces existent en aluminium au cas où.