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what? you can order 4x 280ah lifepo4 cells shipped from china for 160 bucks right now. get rid of the bms and just use an inductive active balancer board for 5$. 8kwh 24v system for 325$. 8 of them fit perfectly inside of a 20mm ammo can for 30 bucks as long as you get the older threaded style cells. fireproof enclosure and all, 360 bucks. that same battery in server rack form costs 3 times that. the only issue is bus bars if youre pulling close to 1c, and wires as you said, and the 3 months shipping (thats actually how you know youre getting them direct from the mfg)

Decent video but you forgot a very important step! Compression! Those look like EVE cells and they highly recommend compression to get the best performance and life out of the cells.

thanks for the upload 👍

I built a 48 nominal (51.2) volt battery with Grade A EVE LF280K cells and JK BMS with Bluetooth, 2A active balancer and 200 amp for $1,339. That is a 300 Amp Hour battery. There isn't any pre-made battery with 300 AH @15,360 watt hours that can comes close to this price and performance. You would need three $1,200 rack mount batteries @ $3,600 to match this one battery.

😅This is the right time to buy a battery Before 60% tariff by trump. But battery prices in China continue to fall. Chinese government expects cell battery prices to fall 50% next year. Also doubling its battery production and recycling capacity next year. Even some factories are starting to sell server rack 48v 100ah batteries with 10 years warranty for 750 usd & 12v 600ah for 700usd. I think the price of batteries will not increase next year. But it will not decrease either.

24 Volt 100ah with Low Temp Protection and 100amp BMS $325.00 Shipped Free 5 year Warranty - So I bought 4 for 10KWH Battery Bank to Drive a 3000 Watt WZRELB 24 Volt Inverter and Victron 150/35 Smart Solar Charge Controller with 1200 - 2000 watts of Solar Supporting It.

I totally agree with you on just going and buying an all-in-one battery off the shelf. I've been happy and less anxious about keeping the cell voltage balanced or coming out of balance. Im done

I'm buying one waiting for cyber monday then it's on..Li Time is what I'am looking at right now 100ah

boomer Sooner!

I've been converting my backup system to LiFePO4. The last lead/acid spiral grid deep cycle battery I bought cost me more than $500.00!! Now I have to 100A/H RedODO batteries for the main backup, with three Jackery units to be used wherever they're needed. Thanks for the video! 👍

I have the misconception , That i believe the 5 burner natural gas heater sopose to indicate the # 1 through 5 is the number of bricks that turn on. Instead of all 5 bricks comming on at # 2 setting and none of them come on at # 1 setting.. and anyone explain this to me? Back in the day. We had a 3 burner propane. And each number indicate each brick turning on...

Remember the Battleborn 12V 100Ah were $950?

Highly suggest to go with 48V. Much better wiring systems. 48V 25Ah are $210, and 48V 50Ah are $400 (amazon). You can plug them into your solar-gen DC solar input for 500+Watts charging.

Gotta find out how the 100ah rating is done 1 hour 12 hr or 24. Cause it then might allow it to run 200amps for 30 mins based off of voltage or temp

Too expensive. I bought recently 2 24v 100ah eco worthy for $719

Most of these batterys in this rice range don't have over current protection. This is why Will Prowse built a testing setup for this.

Sweet and simple! Thanks for sharing.

When a 1000 wh power station with a 1500-1800 w inverter is selling for around $400 now, like a Ecoflow Delta 2 or Jackery 1000 v2, this is just not cost effective. Just my opinion though.

Cool battery but it would be nice to move to 48V tech. Thanks for the vid!

The problem here with our 240v appliance a 12v inverter with a 100 ah battery would just draw too much amperage

You start by saying it's just two things, and then to be reasonably useful it ends up not being just those two things

And a charger. Battery, inverter, and charger.

Could you switch to 48V builds and not these 12V. Thanks!

I would not accept a free battery from them. Proper battery disposal isn’t free.

do you have video about the construction of that shelter?? that looks awesome!

Great video. Thanks

1:49 Class T fuse is a better choice. The ANL will not stop an arc situation if the battery shorts. Look into it. I had an ANL with my hand rolled system but switched to Class T after some research.

dont waste sending back save money and ask half refund

Now that you have your system up, you're going to make the newbie mistake of plugging in lights to the inverter 😂...Don't plug in lights to the inverter, look into E26 12v light bulbs 💡, they look exactly like normal AC bulbs, if you don't want to add a switch to your light bulb, you can use the 12v load on your charge controller as a switch, but a normal AC switch will do the trick if you decide to add a normal switch.

Nice video! The battery looks great

If there are not heating pads between each cell, which I havent seen anyone do yet, the inner cells will still be frozen when it allows charging and will suffer fast degredation. A teardown would have been nice. People with use cases that will regularly get below freezing should use a different chemistry or build their own battery with proper heating. Lots of videos explaining how all this works.

Biggest pack for the cheapest price, that's my moto, they all go dead

I have a couple of Li Time batteries, not the heated ones, and I LOVE them!

And the power per dollar? That's what really matters. What is the most cost effective???

What about leaking?

Here in Commiefornia, Homeland AA's are $3.25 for a four pack, before Gruesome Nuisance gets his tax. But it's still a deal as the Energizer lithium's are nineteen to twenty dollars is some places.

"Super Heavy Duty" are regular zinc cells, not alkaline. E-Circuit is a Dollar Tree brand. $1.25. Their alkalines are now repackaged in 8 packs for $3.00. Blue batteries are zinc, red are alkaline. It's very important to NOT mix types when doing comparisons. These 100 year-old types.

Like to see you test several packs of the homeline to see if you got an anomaly or if they are just that good

I'd like to know which battery has the lowest incidence of leakage. So many Duracell's leak and I've some off brands that leak as well Sometimes Duracell still in the box and not used or expired leak but still have a full charge.

The lithium started at a higher voltage! Why wouldn't they get a longer life? Plus you keep pushing the price as a negative! It can be recharged!!!! All ithers once depleted are thrown away!

i used to buy the big-name brand batteries but they are all closing factories in USA and making them anywhere else they all leak all over electronics when they die pure garbage. I put the energizer lithium ones in stuff i don't want destroyed by leaking batteries since they are only ones that don't leak over time.

Values differ relative to intended use. For a simple flashlight, okay, the second place batteries are better than fine; however, on a difficult to reach outside fixture in a deeply cold environment, the lithium cells cannot be beat even though they cost a whole lot more. This I know from hard experience. Climbing a ladder with more than several feet of snow on the ground, and a bit of wind to make it even more fun, there is nothing like having a battery that really lasts, and can endure the cold.

Mr. Heater propane heaters suk. I have tow of them. One is freestanding and the other is the cabinet style. Neither is 3 years old and neither will work. I Just spend 4 hours on a Saturday messing with them and they won't lit or stay lit. .

The ones that don't leak and wreck your device are the best value, namely the lithium batteries...

Battery power capacity is not the only consideration. Leakage is more worth matrixing.

I have bought the "E Circut" at "The Dollar Tree" before, not bad for the price. I've never heard of or seen the "Homeline" brand b/4, could you say what store you got those at?

I think 0.5A ist a high load for those tiny cells. I think most of them are used in much lower drain applications like a clock or wireless computer moue or the tv remote - which may give different results.

The best is one that can be recharged. I have saved thousands of dollars over the years. FACT

Yes, what happened. Why do people misspell words and still post them. I totally agree, "how to fix it?" Where is the self respect?

Oh, AAA. I have a pack of generic non-rechargeable AAAs (and AAs) that I keep in the chest fridge for those times I need them, but before I use one of those I always try a NiMh AAA rechargeable first and if it holds out long enough I just go with that. And there's only ONE brand for AA and AAA rechargeables... "eneloop" (NOT "enevolt"). "eneloop"... the Panasonic low-self-discharge/high-quality Ni-Mh brand. Heads and tails better than any other NiMh rechargeable on the market. They come fully charged and in the fridge they actually stay that way until I need one. If I cycle one out I fully charge it and put it back into the fridge. Depending on the device, Rechargeables don't last as long as a non-rechargeable. Sometimes by a mile. But they do a decent enough job in most appliances. Not all, but most, so I prefer them over constantly buying and throwing away large packs of non-rechargeables. I haven't had to buy batteries ever since I got the "eneloop" (panasonic)'s. In anycase, I've had that single large pack of non-rechargeables in my fridge for at least 10 years at just above freezing. Keeping them cold keep them fresh. Most importantly, I've never had to buy another pack because most of my devices work just fine with the eneloop's. I'm barely 1/3rd of the way through that big pack after 10 years. -Matt