Відео

Thanks!

Interesting, I knew that people extract gold from electronics, but thought it is mostly limited to gold-plated PCB/connectors. So given small size of these phones, did not expect that these are particularly useful for that purpose - unless you get a pallet of them or so :) Thanks for the information!

@@JustMakeItNow the demand for memory sticks or as they call them (bars) is highest . but the antenna on even the 3g razr phones , just so much gold . it is often hit or miss but that specific phone has in the mouth piece what looks like a large heavy gold paperclip . where i live there are many people in the cell phone gold recovery business . best of luck .

Great tips, thanks!

I think you're talking about IR emitter (to the left of the IR camera, which is in the middle). The lens for the emitter goes on top of the antenna bracket, I _think_ it just snaps in (or held with a grommet, though I don't quite remember it). One thing I DO remember, is that these parts did go apart quite easily by themselves, so that's why you see them in one shot and not in another - these were fiddly to deal with while filming.

You're welcome!

Thanks! :)

Yeah, unfortunately things like that can happen :( Though I have to say, breaking MB connector is not common, usually it is glass and flex cables that are the first victims...

Thanks, grad you found it useful! Depending on how deteriorated your plastic is, making waterproof wrap that still fits into the hole might be quite finicky. So if you're OK with having no water window, a plug would be much more straightforward. Just a heads up :)

Not sure what you mean by that...

This sounds like a terrible idea. I can't see how you would fit 7" wheel in place of 4.5" - there is a guard that is way too small, and even if you remove it (terrible idea, again!) then there are just physical dimensions of the tool and ability to hold it without touching larger wheel. Even if you somehow manage to physically mate 7" wheel with 4.5" grinder, your suspicion of rpms causing problems is spot on. Max rated speed of 7" wheel is likely much lower than 4.5" grinder rpms. Overspeeding wheels can crack and shatter, potentially within minutes, and that is not the thing that you want to happen, ever. Just don't do it. If you really need work done with 7" wheel, get a proper grinder, or just rent it out if it's a one-off.

@@JustMakeItNow The reasoning behind the inquiry is in the case of not having a rental place or supplier at hand. The arbour can interchange as far as I can see. The 4.5 guard can be switched to a 7inch dust shroud/guard. A variable speed 4.5 at 3000 rpm should meet 7" blade safety. Clearance on the hand is understood. I understand YOU WOULDN"T try this But I was hoping for someone who may have tried. I may be that person .. and of coarse I'll be as careful as can be triple checking so I can send you an update.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks! I know manufacturers are not making it exactly easy to DIY repairs, to say the least...

When you say it doesn't shut, do you mean the lid doesn't close all the way, or it doesn't lock in the bottom position? If the former, then it is likely lid hinge (outside the lid) is broken (plastic parts). If the latter, it is likely latch mechanism inside the lid, and there is a good chance that it is not completely broken, but parts are misaligned. If you disassemble it and reassemble it, it might work again without re-fabricating any of the parts.

I agree, with a few spare parts (not to mention slightly better design) a lot of appliances could lead a much longer life. Lid problems are not even the worst ones here, at least these can be reasonably worked around if you're handy. But the parts that are in contact with actual food (well, water here), e.g., level indicator, are almost impossible to repair properly, but could be trivially replaced if parts were available... :(

I haven't seen this specific model, but from what I've seen from Acer laptops with similar model numbers the internals are usually quite similar. So it is quite likely that there is disconnect switch on that model as well.

UA-cam University is the best university! :)

You're welcome!

Glad it was useful!

The battery is NOT dead, I am talking about it around 22:51+. That's why measuring smart batteries at the connector is not reliable - in this case, unless BMS sees grounded trip wire (orange), it does not send any power out, even though the cells are fully charged. . The ribbon cable connects a daughterboard with the power button (and a couple of ports) to the main board.

Thanks!

That's fair. Don't think I've ever had issue with software per se, but if you can't update maps (and it is often the case for older devices), then you can certainly get in trouble if there were some road changes, or in newly built areas that are simply not there.

You're welcome!

No, haven't tried that. Contact terminals for that would be on the back side of the mainboard, so not sure how useful that would be even if you'd be able to power it (unless you're OK to run in out-of-case mode). Also skeptical if that would run at all, batteries normally have more functions than just supplying power. Usually there is data bus/HDQ and thermal data pins, though I don't remember if these are in the original iPad.

Thanks Michael, I am glad that my video was helpful!

I think blades for 20mm arbor are most likely for tile saws, not angle grinders. Though not sure about your particular discs.

This happens, unfortunately, especially with aftermarket batteries. First thing I'd check if the battery cable is seated properly. If no issues there (likely, as you can run on AC), then you can try to do hard reset, which goes something like this: . - Power off - Hold Volume Up and the Power button for 15 seconds. The Surface logo screen may flash, but continue to hold for 15 seconds. - Release the buttons - Wait 10 seconds - Power on the Surface . Also, while on AC, check if battery device shows up under Device Manager in Windows.

Mandatory disclaimer: don't try to operate on visibly puffed up batteries, this is unsafe etc. So the short answer is no. The long answer is also probably no ;) The thing is, I have try to resuscitate puffed up batteries on several occasions, and while they did not blow up in my face (but see disclaimer above), in every single case the cells were pretty much useless. Even if I managed to force them to accept charge, internal self-discharge was so rapid that as soon as I removed charging leads, the battery was draining in a matter of minutes (even without load). On top of that, for the most mobile devices with LiPo batteries you usually cannot even place them inside the case after they puff up enough. So realistically, if it is significantly puffed up - dispose of it. But if it just puffs a little bit it may work out just fine. Pretty much all LiPo cells that were used for some time, even the ones that work just fine, would look a little puffed.

Usually not, because the battery cells connect to the charging circuit that needs to be bypassed. The closest you can get is to keep plugged the device for a few days without turning it on, and hope that it will trickle-charge to a level where it will start charging in a regular fashion. But chances of this working like that are not very high.

Yeah, I tried that by leaving it charging for 2 days and it didn't work... Thanks for the answer!

Thick surface grinding wheels would center just fine on 5/8 threads. Not sure about thin cutoff discs, but you're not supposed to use these anyway with this grinder due to the guard being open.

@@JustMakeItNowJust remake the video after you read the instructions.

Yeah, unfortunately these are pretty fragile. Especially if you try to pry, and corners in particular. Metal/plastic pieces can take quite a bit of force, but glass parts can only bend very little, and then shatter :(

A whole bunch of Acer laptops is likely to have this feature. I am curious, if any other manufacturers do something like this.

With other brands I didn’t encountered this thing but this Acer stayed for like 2 days on the bench only for me to figure out what is wrong with the battery 🤦🏻‍♂️ and when I wanted to give it back to the client with the status of dead battery, even if I knew that is was working fine when she brought it to us…. I put it back together and made a final power on test and it worked correctly. I was completely amazed and intrigued and pissed off and happy and felt like a dumb tehnician, all in 1 moment 😁😁😁

It is most likely the battery. If you're familiar with the device, and it used to work fine and then haven't been used in a while, then it is almost guaranteed that it is just a battery issue. Otherwise, it could be something else, but the chances of that are fairly low. Another issue of concern would be just a dead screen, but this is not a case here as you would see a spike in current on boot up / charging. Right now, it is not charging the battery (based on amperage), this is usually a telltale sign of the dead battery.

@@JustMakeItNow no idea, the previous owner just stated it wasn't working and gave it to us. Thanks for the response

:)

Thanks! You can mute sound and change playback speed in the player controls. The video is already pretty long, and if it would be 1x speed everywhere no one ever would click on it ;)

Glad I could help!

Most welcome 😊

Thanks!

Thanks! I knew I wouldn't be the only one surprised by what I found ;)

Thanks for commenting!

First of all, thanks for contributing! I am not sure though why are you saying that what I am doing is the exact opposite of what should be done. When I refer to boosting, I am strictly talking about fooling my smartcharger to accept the cell into pre-charge cycle, which has a cutoff of around 1.5V (don't remember exactly). Once charger accepts the cell, actual charging happens pretty much along the same lines that you posted (precharging with 0.15A till 3V, then switching to a regular charging program as specified), and has nothing to do with the booster cell. Now, while stopping along the way at 2.5V, 4.1V etc for intermediate testing might be fine if you're working with a few cells, but no way I am doing that for several dozens or hundreds cells manually ;) If I'd have a custom charging circuit that would incorporate that logic that would be fine, but no standard chargers that I know of (including RC3000) support that. So it's just not very practical. . Now, paralleling cells is definitely not something that generally should be done, you're right about that. I believe I do talk about it (though maybe in a different video). Now, for the purpose of showing up some voltage on the charger terminals ideally I'd just use a current-limiting power supply, with something like 2V and very low amperage limit, but I didn't have one handy (the lowest I could go was 1A, which was too much IMO). Hence this almost dead cell was used as a voltage booster for a few seconds. So that cell had slightly above 2V (?) to begin with, so no way even with no-resistance leads it would be outputting multiple amps, and you're also right that these leads wouldn't support that either (tested that before). I am pretty sure I even measured short circuit current on the booster cell, and it was pretty low. So while it was certainly not the most robust setup I admit, it was not as bad as you may think :)

You are welcome!