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Kali Kustomz
Приєднався 8 сер 2010
1947 Ford COE Chassis Swap: Cab, Drivetrain, and Chassis together as one!
More progress on the 1947 Ford COE Chassis Swap: Set the engine back 3 more inches and finished the transmission crossover mount. Then, mounted the cab back down on the chassis with the engine in place!
Переглядів: 1 979
Відео
1947 Ford COE Chassis Swap: Engine and Transmission is set in!
Переглядів 4,4 тис.19 годин тому
One more piece to the puzzle on my 1947 Ford COE Chassis Swap, I managed to get the 305/700r4 setup in the chassis and got her to turn over! Getting it done.. One weekend at a time!
1947 Ford COE Chassis Swap: Quick Update!
Переглядів 1 тис.14 днів тому
Just a short update on the 1947 Ford COE project. Found a few issues that needed to be sorted out. One weekend at a time. Thanks to all the new subscribers, helps the channel grow, we definitely appreciate it! THANK YOU!😊
Gauge issues and gas pedal fixed
Переглядів 8728 днів тому
While waiting for parts for the Ford COE, I figured out my oil pressure and temp gauge issues. Also fixed the gas pedal and linkages.
1947 Ford COE: Chassis swap..It Begins!
Переглядів 18 тис.Місяць тому
Started mocking up the 1947 Ford COE cab to the frame!
1963 VW Bus: VDO Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature gauges installed!
Переглядів 91Місяць тому
Quick video installing a set of VDO Oil temperature and Oil Pressure gauges.
1963 VW Bus: Interior Panels covered and Installed!
Переглядів 462 місяці тому
This weekend, I got a majority of the interior panels made, covered, and installed. Shirt little video showing the process.. I hope it helps anyone else thinking of tackling this type of work.😊
1963 VW Bus: Gas gauge, sending unit and gps speedo works! Started working on interior pieces!
Переглядів 622 місяці тому
Finished up the gas tank sending unit wiring and the GPS speedometer fully operational! Decided to start working on interior trim panels and carpet. Everything this weekend was what I had on hand and in the shop, so basically, it's a "If it's free, it's for me" weekend. Hope you enjoy what I came up with. Thanks for watching!
1963 VW Bus: Wiring Discussion
Переглядів 392 місяці тому
Discussion on the wiring progress. Gas tank/sending unit and all electrical working prefectly! Going with a GPS speedo unit as well..
1963 VW Bus: Vent windows installed.. Bad Wiring Discovered.
Переглядів 932 місяці тому
Decided to install the vent windows and wanted to get the fuel guage working, which led to discovery of some wiring that needed to be fixed. Still more wiring to go threw. One weekend at a time! Facebook page profile.php?id=100057638551416&mibextid=ZbWKwL Instagram page kali_kustomz
1963 VW Bus: PAINTED the MANGO!
Переглядів 843 місяці тому
Decided to just paint the BUS! Classic 2 tone VW look.. done with the 60s-style application... Rustoleum Rattle can! Also... finished up the door seals, and all the windows cleaned up and sealed up!
1963 VW Bus: Rear Shocks, Steering Damper installed. Finished up the Window Cranks and Drip caps.
Переглядів 873 місяці тому
Installing the rear shocks, the steering damper and finally got in my window cranks and the rain drip rails installed!
Introduction to our Beloved SKOOLIE!
Переглядів 2083 місяці тому
Skoolie clean out and finished running electricity to her. This video is an introduction to our beloved Skoolie we have had for about 7ish years. She's been waiting patiently for the interior to be built out.. As I was cleaning her out and getting her ready. I said to myself.. "It's been awhile old friend" it's her turn now.😊
1968 442 FINISH!
Переглядів 4123 місяці тому
Buttoned up the last few odds and ends. The owner drove her home!
Installed the CARPET! Quick intro to the VW Bus!
Переглядів 984 місяці тому
Installed the CARPET! Quick intro to the VW Bus!
Headlights, Taillights, Bumpers Installed!
Переглядів 1164 місяці тому
Headlights, Taillights, Bumpers Installed!
1968 Oldsmobile 442 Headlight/taillight buckets REFURBISHED!
Переглядів 1675 місяців тому
1968 Oldsmobile 442 Headlight/taillight buckets REFURBISHED!
1/4 interior trim panel Reconstructed! Painted up some emblems and hood grills!
Переглядів 1175 місяців тому
1/4 interior trim panel Reconstructed! Painted up some emblems and hood grills!
1968 Oldsmobile 442 PAINTED! Round one!
Переглядів 2376 місяців тому
1968 Oldsmobile 442 PAINTED! Round one!
Replaced the Front Bumper on the COE!
Переглядів 936 місяців тому
Replaced the Front Bumper on the COE!
Cool
@@JeronWhite thanks!
Great progress 👏
@CustomCars717 thanks so much!
@czayfman Your Welcome 😁
@czayfman I was thinking if the front locations for the cab was a two part design that bolts in the middle you wouldn't need so much hight.
@CustomCars717 two part design?
With the cab covering most of the engine and having a large radiator in front of it access to the engine would be hard. Would it be beneficial to make the radiator lock in position but allow it to swing like a gate to give you access after removing the front grill
@neilwainwright1455 That's a great idea... if the hoses would make that happen.. how I'm going to mount the radiator... As of right now, my thinking process.. there will be plenty of room from underneath to access the front of the engine.. as far as the engine being under the cab floor.. it will have a large access, engine cover so to speak, that will be removable.. just like the factory Ford truck had. 😊
@@czayfman most aluminium radiators you can adjust by removing the pre-fixed pipe entries and make your own fixing points can be anything you want and anywhere you want. My thinking would be to put the pipe entries on the side of the radiator and only on one side. Fixing you want a bush with a locking nut top and bottom so like your hinges then the other side would just have a bush with a lock that you can flick up to release giving you a gate affect. You don’t have to be running the engine while the gates open it would be possible for access to the engine would be more of a priority because taking the cap off every time you want to get to the engine is a nightmare
@neilwainwright1455 ill look into the design and see what's needed.. its definitely a cool idea!😎
@@czayfman then when you fit the cab floor you can fix it permanently and you don’t have to think about it coming out so you can change plugs
Great steps forward.👍
@@VinoRatRodbuilds thanks!
First one!! Happy New Year. Boy, thank you for getting that clip-on mic!! Will you have to change the water pump to match up to the crank pulley or is there something else going on there? If the frame has to go in and out repeatedly, you'll need a way to accurately locate it to marks on the floor or something.
@kodak_jack thanks! Happy New year indeed!
@kodak_jack The water pump that's on the 305 is the stock unit. I have the pully somewhere.. and it will line up with the crank pully.. once the cab cradle and mounts are fully established.. The cab will come off and on with no worries about accuracy.. becuase they will be pinned using the mount points. It's just like a modern truck would be. The mic is definitely better! Thanks again for coming in and seeing the progress!
I also find I'm more chatty with the mic, meaning i explain more of yhe processes and why im doing what im doing. hoping that is well received... 😅
@ It’s all good. What are you going to do with the bigger backyard? Don’t turn it into a junk pile!
@kodak_jack no... not a junk yard🤣 having more backyards is always a plus... possable a few larger "sheds" like 12x40s... Either way, we have way more space back there!
Easy Off works just as good
Hi I’m fairly new to your channel, I’ve only seen 2 or 3 videos tops. I dig what you do and how you explain what you’re doing and why. I plan on checking out the whole build which I added the whole playlist on UA-cam. I enjoy videos on old cars and trucks and I like to see different ways of doing things! I’m not a mechanic but I have a little knowledge. This is my favorite pastime, I don’t have cable so I watch videos like crazy. Keep up the good work!
@ronaldhackett7979 thanks for joining the channel! I'm a paint and.body guy.. since 1991... and mechanicals I've gotten more into over the last 5 years. Since taken on these frame swap type builds.. again, thank you for tuning in.. and the kind words!
You don't need to do anything with the pinion angle. The math was done from the factory just put the cross member in. Unless you doing major changes to the rear suspension. Otherwise weight or not it's good to good.
@minitrucks9994 sounds good! I will be dropping the truck thru suspension.. most likely 3-inch drop blocks rear and 2 inch drop spindles in the front.
Wow I can hear you ,mike is great , appreciate ya , always enjoy your channel
@mrchuckbiker5842 thanks so much for coming in and taking a peek! I think the suggestions on getting a mic was well over due! Thanks again for watching!
You should try easyoff oven cleaner sometimes,
@@MichaelHigh-v9s i still have to pull the engine... give it another good scrubbing to paint it up.. and replaced everything that's leaking.. I may just give that a whirl.. thanks!
Good progress . 👍
@@VinoRatRodbuilds thanks!
You could do with a lazer. But anyway you could clean everything ready for paint. Chassis ets
@neilwainwright1455 im a pretty small one man garage.. i don't see a laser cleaner in my future.. I haven't decided what route I'll be doing with the cab.. the chassis will be stripped down and coated.. once everything is mocked up.😊
That engine needs complete strip down and redo of all seals clutch and bearings
@neilwainwright1455 I'm swapping out the intake.. resealing the covers, oil pan, and the likes.. I wont be blowing apart the entire engine... ill be doing a compression test once I get the tester in. As far as the 700r4, I'm gonna change the fluid and run it and see how that goes.. the fluid is extremely clean..... if down the road it needs rebuilt. I'll address it then.. thanks for the comment.😊
Thanks for getting the mic! BIG difference. Every single piece of rubber GM ever used, on the body or the power train, leak.
@kodak_jack the mic is better for sure!
Could you not switch the plates around so passanger side is on driverside and in doing so it. It looks like it will go back a few more inches
@jamesferrell9404 no.. unfortunately. The plate hits the mechanical fuel pump mounting surface.. I tried a few different ways of bolting.. or attempting to bolt up the plates after seeing the oil pan clearance issues.
Tee shirt Weather! It was ZERO here last night.😢 Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
@kodak_jack 🤣.. yea.. mornings around 40ish.. by the afternoon, it's hitting 60 to 70.. that Florida Life..😊
239 flathead back in the day. 👍 Just a cruiser?
@VinoRatRodbuilds yep.. doesn't need a bunch of HP.. just to cruise around.. its about the smiles per miles..😊
Yep 😂
I hope this works out for you...ever consider old R.V .? Just a thought
@aliciaritchie8676 i did on the GMC.. ended up with a Silverado chassis. I really just want a small sized truck.. I had the s10 frame.. and slowly figuring out to make it work..
👍
Obviously, the engine and tranny being mid-ship was the way to go. I can't imagine the hassles of leaving it all under the cab. Troubleshooting the brake problem and finally figuring out the problem had to have been a very frustrating process. After having disabled the lift module that was a drain on the battery, did you still have to use a trickle charger to make the Sniper happy? FWIW, using the microphone on the camera is sketchy. For the Ford build, please consider getting a wireless mic that goes on your shirt.
@kodak_jack this Ford build im keeping the engine under the cab. Being a shorter frame i believe I'd run out of room from the back of the transmission to rear end.. ill be making the inside floor panels, hopefully, removable.. they the Ford had before. Ill look into a wireless mic.. my wife said the same thing. 😆
@@czayfman If I crank up the volume to hear what you're saying, it blasts my ear drums when the music comes on. I really like your series, but the volume thing can be annoying. Thanks. Have a good Christmas and New Year.
The headlight trim needs to be gun metal to match the other "stuff". Looking really nice!
Nice of them not to supply you with 3/8-24 screws! At least they didn't switch those screws to Metric to frustrate you even more. The mounting feet sure look wimpy. Use a solid square plate under the feet. Careful with Allen button heads, especially if they're stainless. They round out very easily. With the gas fill flap in the bed, does the bed still need to go up and down?
@kodak_jack this was after the linear actuator. The Dakota Digital was to let me know what gear i was in. It didn't actually do anything for shifting. The Lokar shifter is extremely stout. The floor is 16ga sheet.. and was plenty strong enough to keep it from wobbling. Overall I would definitely use that shifter in the future. And most likely will with the Ford. 😊COE project
Have you thought of the headlight eyebrows being gunmetal like several of the other pieces?
@@kodak_jack yep... I did a trade deal with the 63 VW Bus before I did that...
Someone might actually think you know what you're doing! Very nice.
@@kodak_jack 🤣.. I try
Really nice! A couple too many parts from China are that crazy, cheap pot metal.
We tend to do what the wifey says, but I think the bed liner stuff was pretty nice.
@kodak_jack it looked ok in person.. the "factory" style ones i did install looked more better. 😆
For somebody who says he's a paint and body guy, you've done a remarkable job for figuring out the complex systems on that truck. New does not make any of them simple. On a side note, I'm surprised with the past van craze we had that nobody picked up on doing Transit conversions. I've seen a couple of attempts in England, but nothing here.
@kodak_jack thanks! I generally like to figure things out myself.. sometimes I'll just stare at things until I work it out in my head.. then just go for it.. anything can be fixed.. if done wrong..🤣 There is a huge community that does do transit van conversions into camper vans.. we even thought about it with our transit. Thanks again for the compliment!
@ I meant the kinds of conversion stuff that used to be done “back in the day”. The ones done in England were pretty nice, but they were done waaay back when the Transit was first introduced. Bought new, they’re way more expensive than they should be. Then again, everything has gotten out of hand price wise.
@kodak_jack gotcha... there was definitely a "cool" factor to the older style vans from back in the day. And I agree.. with costs of everything threw the roof now.. not many are willing to "customize" a new transit.. heck you can buy them already done now a days from the Factory.. like Spinter vans.. at an inflated amount of money.. 😅
Somebody new to this, like the vast majority would be, have no idea what to order and end up wasting a lot of time and money. Like I said in the previous video's comments, I've see experts, Like Derek Bieri from Vice Grip Garage, struggle through the Terminator X install. In your case, everything is wide open and easier to work on than a typical car install would be. Is it really necessary to use the $$$$ aluminum fuel fittings or are the barbs and hose clamps good enough? The average guy is going to do this once and the cost of special tools is ridiculous.
@kodak_jack ahhh.. I gotcha.. with the fuel pressures.. I personally like the an fittings vs barbed ends..Evil Energy sells value priced fittings.. off Amazon and they work prefect. And seem to be alot "easier" to put together.. I use the black braided lines and I find those easier to put the ends on.. vs the pure stainless steel lines.. even the PTFE lines I did for the power steering went relatively easy. Being open space around the engine definitely has its advantages.
@@kodak_jack also I didn't have any special tools to put these lines together. Like "AN" wrenches or anything..
Kind of stupid that Holley gives you screws that don't end up flush. It's intimidating enough to do one of these swaps and Holley isn't doing anybody any favors by giving you hardware that isn't "right". I've seen videos of guys installing the Terminator X and it is super complicated. This one is good enough for 90% of rodders. Most guys have a heck of a time getting an old O2 sensor out of the exhaust. They should give you a way to test the old sensor to see if it works and then give you a way to use what you have.
@kodak_jack overall this sniper unit isn't bad at all.. most issues I've seen are user error... follow the instructions and its usually right as rain.
Do you have a leak on your vacuum line
I don't believe i do.. since i don't have any vaccum lines coming off the carburetor.. they are all capped. And this distributor doesn't have a vacuum advance on it.. once I start it up again.. ill give that area a squit of some spray around the Carburetor.. and see if the base gasket is leaking... honestly.. how this was out together.. I wouldn't be surprised. 😢
@ as you give it gas it’s building pressure but as you let off it’s loosing. There’s a leak somewhere
@neilwainwright1455 ill definitely spray around it then.. thanks for the info.. 😊
@@czayfman I would check everywhere that something bolts to the block and any seems. Until you engine is fully warmed up and working hard you probably won’t notice where the leak is but by that point it could have a catastrophic failure
@neilwainwright1455 gotcha.. the engine has many signs that it's been rebuilt.. as well as the previous owner said it was..ill see if I can find anything..
Couple of wins. 👍
@@VinoRatRodbuilds it certainly was!
FWIW, Derick Bieri from Vice Grip Garage has a way of doing rims with tires on by using a plastic garbage bag. I don't know how easy it would be to find on UA-cam but he does it all of the tie.
You suck down the system using the low side gauge because it has the combination gauge that has pressure and vacuum in one gauge, as you did. After you get it to as low as it will go, you leave it for 24 hours to see if it leaks. If you charge through the low side, you charge it with gas, which means the can is right-side up. If you charge with the can up side down, it gives you liquid and that goes into the high side of the system using the right side gauge and hose. It's better to charge through the low side and give it a little gas every once in a while. As you fill, the evaporator, inside the vehicle, will show frost. When you hit the magic amount, the frost will flash off and you're done. It's getting very hard to find R 12. Not only has it gone to 134, but there's a new refrigerant coming. If your compressor is newer, I guess it still ran OK with R12? Threaded fasteners usually want BLUE Loctite, available through big box stores in the paint department. Don't use RED or you'll need to heat them up to get them loose again.
@kodak_jack thanks for the info. I used R134 since it was all new stuff.. we are already using the R1234y at work and have the proper machine for that. The ac was ice cold and didn't have any issues.
What a giant PITA! With the slots being opened up as much as they were, it's a wonder the door holds the position.
@@kodak_jack i fight those doors until the end.. finally got them to shut decent.. the bear claw latches from Altman are great!
I don't know how this started, but I had to sit through a 4 1/2 minute ad before your video - that sucks! There was no way to skip it. The daily driver part at the beginning looks like a terrible thing to fix. The amount you had to slot the hinge holes is incredible - WOW.
@kodak_jack really? I guess someone is making money with ad clicks... its definitely not me.. 🤣
Those linear actuators are certainly loud, aren't they?
@kodak_jack to me, they didn't seem loud.. maybe because it's in a metal building?
Very nice. How did you fasten down the carpet? The little "stuff" is very time consuming.
@kodak_jack the seat riser and along the door openings i put rubber seals.. that i used interior screws to fasten it down.. I didn't use.any type.of spary glue or anything.. basically like any other interior vehicle carpet. Hope that helps
What engine are you planning on using! Just subscribed I did a 49 Chevy earlier 2000s I still have it and use it as my daily driver in good weather of course! Lol ua-cam.com/video/ZiJ3tfTWUQc/v-deo.htmlsi=sGpQjUH7ysdfRbP8
@bobleeswoodshop7919 thanks for the comment. I have two choices.. since i already have them both. A 305, which i was told runs... but have never tried to fire it over in the last 4 years I've had it. Or a 283 that smokes a little on startup I was told.. 700r4 for the transmission... so it's up in the air... either engine i think I'll have to "freshen" up a bit
@ both are good my truck I was able to get a crate motor from summit racing one of the 200 hr powered! I have a turbo 350 transmission in mine! Cameo sub from a 1980 !
@bobleeswoodshop7919 I'm working on the..."if I have it already, I'll use it" budget"... 🤣 Sounds like you have a great setup!
@ I am looking forward to seeing what you doing in your future videos! Thanks for sharing your adventures!
@bobleeswoodshop7919 thanks for popping in and sharing yours. 😊
How did you hide the wiring for the tail lights and the bulbs in the round holes at the top of the box?
@kodak_jack the upper lights in the bed rails I ran threw the stake posts... as far as the tail lights they were ran along that back panel.
Too bad you couldn't get the orange in quart cans.
@kodak_jack the paint code for this orange is a BASF color code 4516. I color matched it at work. I painted the rear diff cover at work. When it came to matching the "patina" the Rustoleum Rustic Orange was spot on.. and being rattle cans I could do the brush stroke thing much easier than with regular basecoat.
What a TON of work!!! Nice.
@kodak_jack thanks for the comment.. in the end, it was well worth the time and effort!
Was the S10 chassis easily available? Why didn't you use a Silverado chassis?
@kodak_jack I've had this frame sitting out back for a few years now.. the s10 are easy to find in my area.. especially the reg cab short beds. Most want the reg cab long bed for the 3100 trucks. Silverado frames are much harder to come by. Plus, I wanted a smaller truck.. I'll work out the front wheels using backspacing. Thanks for the comment.
@@czayfman I guess it would be a lot of work for you, but on the GMC build, you didn't show the tons of sheet metal fab and repair that you did. Those of us who watch builds by others don't mind watching that kind of stuff. For each video you put out, you're making money and we enjoy seeing it all. Thanks.
@kodak_jack your right.. by time I started posting up the gmc most of yhe metal work was done.. yhe 442 build shows a bunch of metal work and rust repairs.. as far as this build goes.. it will be like the 442.. showing the metal work.. what would work or not.. by my mistakes.. 🤣. As of right now.. I don't make any money off the channel.. it takes alot of subscribers and a bunch more watch hours.. this video is actually doing amazing... which in turn wants me to create more videos on it...
At 22:50 it's time to plan for the hinges for the tilt cab. Cab hinge and steering column pivots need to line up, after that it's relatively easy.
@tn65s i didn't plan on doing a tilt cab set up. At this point, I'm not 100% sure how that would all work in conjunction with each other. I know the steering and brake master are on my mind.. as well as possable moving the cab up off the frame another 4 inches for the engine placement. Ill be dropping with 2ibch front spindles and blocks in the rear..
@@czayfman The only hard point is the universal for the steering column, it needs to lineup with the pivot point on the cab, the brakes are just flex lines. You need to find a ford C series cab over and it will be self explanatory. It would be a hell of a cool truck for not that much work.
Looking forward to a great build
@@eddiedebeer1709 thanks for checking out out!
I’ve been waiting years for a update 😊 thank you
Thanks for your patience. I'm glad you're here!😊
Good start! 👍 You mentioned insulation, I work at Vandenberg space force base on the Central Coast California. I work on a contract that we do a lot of different work HVAC equipment related repairs. I recently was on a job where we installed at 12KW generator, this generator came with a muffler blanket that wasn't used. So I took it home because it's an insulating blanket for my firewall on my car for the heat-related and sound. It's a product called cerawool . 1 in thick ceramic type of high temperature insulation. Never would have thought to have used it on my firewall, but the last product I used was highly flammable that I bought out of a speedway catalog, ask me how I know I had it setting where I was grinding and just the spark from the grinder set it on fire.😮 Never would have known to use this product except for working on a job where the product was available and it made me think about the benefits of using a material that's non-flammable, and can withstand temperatures up to 3,500° f. The product is not that expensive I think $100 would probably do your whole truck where you want to put it around the engine. Just throwing it out there because of the issue I had with using a flammable insulation that speedway sells. Right on looking forward to the rest of this build I love cabovers.
That’s a great idea. I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to keep the heat down on that engine cover I'll need to build.. I'll definitely look into that product! Thanks for sticking around seeing what I get up to in my shop!😊
I looked up that product on Amazon.. its priced perfectly for what it does! I'll be picking it up for sure.. thanks for the info!
Wear long sleeve shirt and a respirator It's like working with fiberglass insulation. I washed my clothes and they were still itchy after washing them. FyI
@@VinoRatRodbuilds will do!
I'm going to put a SEM product rubberized texture over the insulation after I have it installed, to seal in the fibers from shedding. I'm going to do the work this weekend and post a video. 👍
Cleaning up nicely. 👍
@@VinoRatRodbuilds thanks... it sure is😊
Well done! Yep I haven't given out a blue ribbon today. So you're getting one for this awesome work you're doing.🥇
@@VinoRatRodbuilds thanks brotha!
I learned to drive in a 1961 beetle in a field at age 9 or 10. Now i drive a Vw Jetta wagon, The need for speed died long ago too it appears. I never had a vw Bus.
@442olds7 I pieced together 2 beetles back when I was around 11.. never saw the road.. ive been wanting a VW bus for the past 5 to 6 years. I'm glad I now have one... im not digging the hard to get in reverse thing.. ill get that figured out.
@@czayfman Noddle shifter?
@442olds7 it's really sloppy and tricky to get into reverse. im gonna pull it apart this weekend and see if the shifter plate is in the wrong way. I guess that's a common issue when people replace everything. It appears to be brand new..
Nice improvement. 👍
@VinoRatRodbuilds thanks so much! Doing what I can. With what I had. Its gonna look prefect.
Nice work! Looks very clean and professional
@nickkonwent7387 thanks so much!