Відео

thanks a lot! I'm currently reassembling the rig after moving home and I've been itching to get into the new update.

I forgot. Fanalab settings is everything at "default" or standard meaning: All game forces at 100% in Fanalab, FEI at 100, pretty much the "default". All the "natural" filters are on zero. I've recently tried 800 sensitivity, 740 or 720 for GT cars and 640 for LMP1 cars. I've also decided to use a lvl1 interpolation filter to help with stability in certain parts like that really fast corner in road america. I've tried my GF's PS5 dual sense controller for the past few days but I'm 4 secs off my wheel times. And it's much harder for me to be consistent. I'm also used to driver view (looks similar to the cockpit view I use in all other racing games).

@@caaarlos thanks I will try this hope I can match my controller laps! And for F1 and x-class cars how much sensitivity should be good?

@@DavidTRXGaming I haven't really tried any of those yet, I've been focusing on the stuff from featured multiplayer. At least LMP1 if you want to be able to correct quickly bit if it is too twitchy in the center you can raise. In theory a F1 car would be 360 degress but from my experience that might be way too sensitive in Forza Motorsport.

Glad to hear, I've been researching further but currently I'm also trying to figure out how to be quick on a controller.

I haven't driven everything yet, I have a few more videos with LDMh, DPi, GT3, Copa Uno, and GT1. For the most part I think I enjoyed all these. I haven't tried many open wheelers in AMS2 yet.

Thanks a lot, I'm considering trying a PS5 controller on PC since I'll be away from the rig for at least a month.

Thanks man! Really glad you are enjoying it so much and you moded the quick release for comfort. It's really nice to have everything in the same ecosystem make the experience more streamlined and you also have tons of compatibility since that has been for long on the market, and lots of people will share already tons of settings. Huge time saver. I'm not a huge fan of jumping blind into new tech since many times costumers end up being guinea pigs for big tech companies. I could've gotten a more recent DD but the DD1 for me was again in a similar "sweet spot" and tbh the power is overwhelming, I struggle to keep the DD in check. Specially with smaller 270mm rim, I've bled from my hand after a crash. I've hurt my joints and experienced wrist pain running 90% for extended periods of time and I'm a mfkin 200pound 6"4 tall 37old dude that squats 200kg after my first 4months of gym after years of calisthenics. Even then the DD can overpower me due to leverage in a proper driving position. The market has been moving towards light DDs for a reason, if wheels aren't GSI or McLaren made of metal and carbon... get titanium... any "poly whatever" will get shredded by 25nm and the simcube ultimate 32nm? I can't imagine anyone running 100% on that without getting sent to physiotherapy. At 57 years young the TSPC/TSXW power is in that right confortable spot. Even people with the new "cheap DDs" around 10nm don't run them at 100% making their use of force closer to the 6nm. And that is actually the most realistic feel of force for most cars. The only thing you need is something at least as rigid as a Playseat Trophy or other, to get always the same exact position as that will give familiarity to muscle memory and increase consistency and immersion compared to a desk.

I'm not defending what they did, I just want them to improve upon what's already here. ACC on release was messy and now it's by far 1 of the best sims. AMS2 came w all madness engine issues and bugs from Project Cars 2 and even less features and less content, just more accurate cars/tracks/ffb. But they kept improving it way beyond that. Even when FH5 released back when I only had a G923 I bought it and returned it. It was so sad. Wheel kept disconnecting. I wanted to enjoy the game and it was buggy and until they patched some stuff I couldn't play w the wheel. Years later I've seen people say FH5 turned out better than FH4 which is about to get delisted. There are people saying FH5 is better than FM8 but on release FH5 was also a bit messy. It's bonkers for me how can AAA studios mess up so bad and then you have indy companies like Kunos make AC and you see Alonso (along w many others) posting insta stories saying he is practicing in AC. Really makes you think.

@@caaarlos I know brother I was just shooting it out there. They knew what they were doing. They sold us a dream. And the big issue is directly tied to Microsoft hiring people for 18months so you getting people who probably have no experiences in racing games working on this project, just don't give a danm about the genre and when you swap people like this it's hard to stick with a nice consistency. From what I've heard some of the devs working on FH left and created their own studios and are working on a story driving open world racing. That alone tells a lot, only people who have a passion for cars will do such act. And you're right FH5 was messy at launch but for the amount of time the game has been out they just don't put enough effort.

​@@fredbruno it's sad rampant capitalism gives power to big corporations to take over markets and drive any small passionate niche to the ground. any niche starts as a passion but as soon as passion creates something good that attracts a big market money pours in, and that attracts evil big corporations. those will try to take all slices of the cake w better advertisement and even cater to the clients at first, but eventually when they own majority of the market they turn hard into min maxing profit. Kunos n Reiza n SimBin, 3 of my favourite small studios, SimBin - GTR2, race07, turned RaceRoom Kunos - AC, ACC, AC2evo Reiza - AMS1, AMS2 All those games have passion and drive behind them. I started with GT2 and Toca2 for PS1 and I wish current GT, FM, codemasters, were as good as they were in the past. My first PC game ever bought in a blockbusters shop was Diablo. Had Diablo 2. Then the creator left and now Blizz is a parody of the original Blizzard. Imagine the disappointment. I imagine many people feel like that for Forza Motorsport. I'm hopeful they at least improve it like it happen with FH5. This capitalist practice, you see it everywhere. A good restaurant has the same quality staff over a lifetime. Usually bad businesses don't value quality employees, hire cheap labour, give crap service, people complain but as long as management sees profit they won't care. Even if they are leaving money on the table and could earn more, they just want to cheap out and not value the workers and the clients. Everyone is unhappy except the suits in their penthouses and yachts. And that's how the world has been running for the past few decades. They've been boiling the frog slowly. I'm either nuts or I'll be taking part on the next civil war because in any other period of human history there would be one, after what has been happening. The 1% are getting fatter and fatter every retail sale supermarket has shared nothing but record breaking profits in my country, yet they pay as close to minimum wage as possible, and try to hire as many "refugees" as possible so they get tax exemptions on their salaries. Even "refugees" who were getting free salaries from our govt out of no-where because "europe says so", even they were complaining rents where too high. It's ridiculous. Happening in front of everyone's eyes and nobody does anything nobody cares. 1% enslaving 90% of the world. Sorry this is a huge rant but in the end it ties down with the same. Blizzard had some insanely nasty practices against their workers too.

@@caaarlos You're absolutely right. This is happening everywhere.

Thank you for sharing your opinion. I think I've mentioned in the video that they are still improving and adding features that should have been there since release. Which is a pity, if they had waited and released the game in the state it is right now, even thou it's still far from perfect, it wouldn't have been received so poorly and the backlash wouldn't have been as hard.

@@caaarlos i agree, it's hard to see my favourite franchise in this state (been playing since FM2) i only hope someday they'll bring it to it's former glory

​@@estebanmunoz4304 Agree, I loved GT2 and GT4 as a kid but can't fathom a PS5 with GT7 right now. I heard how great forza was on xbox over the years while I've been stuck on PC and I was eager to finally have access to something like the Motorsport series. TBH for me and not only me, I have screenshots of alonso on his instagram histories posting assetto corsa, I've seen a team that won ELMS 23 LMP2 use profession AC modding team for their simulations, countless drivers use AC, even I improved my karting through AC. AMS1 is hard to get ffb right but it's also pretty good. For me AC is my benchmark for ffb feel and physics regarding feeling confident with the wheel as much as in real life.

When I installed the game from steam I had forgot I had removed my Xbox app from windows since I never had any microsoft xbox game before. I installed it for the login I think (just the basic xbox microsoft store app from win10 and not the "game bar app") usually I hate having those things in background anyway. I didn't make the video to defend the state the game is in, but to actually try to spread awareness that some issues can be fixed by ourselves. Maybe if I had gotten gamepass and then installed Forza Motorsport 8 from the microsoft store I would've run into more issues. What PC specs do you have? You can run DxDiag command to produce the text file with the directx diagnostic and open a support ticket with that file attached. The penalty system is quirky to say the least, better than nothing but for example for Assetto Corsa (dirt cheap ultimate pack on sale) free thousands of mods, and install World Sim Series 3rd party app, kissmyrank penalty system addon, and you have a new multiplayer feature in content manager will a proper rating licenses etc. And if you record races you can appeal when there is contact and stewards will analyse footage and lay down penalties post race, altering results and ratings. Track limits are very serious and affect safety rating there, and even the way you enter and leave the pits is scrutinized by the addon. It's pretty amazing what people turned AC into. I notice that I need to close everything I can to save Vram in order for FM to be stable because of it's consumption and even then, I gotta close and open the game from time to time just to clear that Vram. For me the FFB isn't twitchy, its quite the opposite, too dampened even with no filters on my DD1. I wanted it to be more twitchy like on my video in AC, driving the Acura DPi car when I set the world record in RSR live timing. I was using some pretty extreme and twitchy settings it felt crazy but amazing like you could feel anything the car was doing so intuitive to drive. That is my benchmark, ffb settings that make me drive any car by intuition and get up to pace quickly because I feel the limit really well and easy. Specially when the rear end is twitching under braking, like I'm used to see in real life footage or when I drive karts. Can you tell me what FFB settings you had, when u got that "twitchy" feeling ffb?

​@@caaarlos wasnt trying to attack you or (the contents of) your video, im just mad about the game... i use a Thrustmaster TX wheel with some settings i found on reddit for it. the issue wasnt the FFB, its the cars handling. didnt matter if i used normal or simulation steering, the car was always wobbling on every corner entry and exit, or pretty much after every steering input. tried getting the FFB as close to what i have in ACC, looking for the same responsive feeling you described, but the car just seemed out of control on steering wheel in Forza... but anyway, i canceled gamepass and uninstalled forza in the meantime. sad about the 40smth Euros i invested in DLCs, had my 200h of fun with it but can not be asked to deal with more issues, instead ill just enjoy ACC or test some Rennsport (recently got beta access)

​@@xalunkx5546 yes man and I feel that. I've been on the fence as well too because in the first 2 hours trial period after installing I spent more time in loading, cinematics, tutorial, trying to get basic settings to work and understand the framework of the game. The only reason I got premium was to have faster access to more content to have a "shortcut" to do an evaluation of the game faster, and even thinking about those 15 days that I can ask steam for a refund and trying to experience as much as possible as fast as possible and trying to figure out how to make it the best possible experience. Like you (I assume), we both wanted Forza Motorsport to be the best version possible of itself. I've actually noticed that your experience might be wildly different from car to car and specially with car tunes. I've seen keyboard players overtake me on daytona or le man while "zig zagging" from the right left input on keyboard with some OP tune. I had a similar experience with first AC, and even in ACC if you don't get pressures right it's easy to be a couple seconds of pace from most of the field on a random lobby if the pressures are wrong. For me I'm in a tough spot where my current apt is also rented for vacations by the landlady (its 99% of the rented flats in my city) and I'm gonna have to pack everything into a storage unit. So I was looking into something more casual in case my temporary accommodations won't have room for the cockpit. I love AC, ACC, AMS1, AMS2, RRRE, PC2... but they are demanding, regarding understanding of setup, driving technique. You can't just drive any car or track like it's a game. Due to the level of realism, I get carried, I practice a bit more seriously, incidents get to me on a more personal level, I watch real life onboards and gaming content to learn about whatever I'm about to do if it's new to me. It's easy for me to have 200gb of video waiting for edit and just keep pushing limits in a realistic sim. Sometimes races are uneventful everyone practiced and is on their own pace and the field just spreads a bit and that's it. In casual games like Forza Motorsport I like that contact doesn't always mean instant KO. That you can race door to door and fool around a bit. I used to love Toca2 touring cars as a kid and that's why I had it on the channel. Gran Turismo 2 as a game was a better game but the racing in Gran Turismo has always been boring and just a spread out field you either have speed for it or not. In toca2 you could see AI crash each other or go for moves on each other and the races just felt so much more organic and realistic, there was more door to door racing and it was way more on edge, for a PS1 game it was just insane. Assettos ffb for me is just ingame str slider, everything else 0% and then each car I make it's own fanalab profile for lights and DD1 config, it's so streamlined and w fanalab I can balance out the huge differences some cars can have. AMS1 was a bit quirky about ffb hz frequency and singal inversion, and AMS2 was the first to actually give me some work with ingame sliders to make the default profiles just like PC2 and Forza. RRRE ingame settings didn't have anything much other than min force and ffb str, but i needed a crazy wierd fanalab profile to make the FFB usable for me. It's strange that you have so much trouble with sliding maybe you didn't use ABS or sport TC in GT3 cars, which in every other game they have. I tried driving fully no assists but my times were slower cuz I wasn't pushing as much. Also tunes, i'm noticing even on "closed" series a proper tune will make a huge impact. And from what I've heard some cars like the 488 Gt3 (very sad for me) are total garbage on most tracks except long straights. While others like the Audi are OP and people were asking for nerfs to it.

​ @caaarlos you seem to have alot more SimRacing experience than i do, so i wont be able to go into to much detail ;) regarding Forza, i was using sports TC and ABS, same settings as i used for the xbox controller, just connected my steering wheel and it all felt wrong. my times got worse on the wheel compared to a controller, cause of this uncontrolable twitching after every input. for example on brands hatch in the same AMG GT3, my wheel times been about 3sec slower than on controller, same car setup and everything. i can only really talk about ACC when it comes to setups and tire pressure and all that stuff, while it can be really complicated, you can usually get away with changing the same settings every time according to track temperature, rest stays once you got it for a track (i use the same car on all tracks tho, does make things easier on the setup part if you know what those changes actually do). but ill have to agree, those games are demanding for sure. every other day at work i feel like racing, but when i get home im to exhausted to setup my wheel and focus myself for a full hour or more on racing (incl practice, setups, quali and 20min races or smth), thats exactly the time where id like to just start up forza, get my gamepad and race a casual race or two... would be perfect, if it would work, some SimCade for the exhausted days. I have always been a fan of GT > Formula my entire life, so i totally get your wish for proper tight but fair races with slight contact here and there, usual GT racecraft. but what you described for forza had been quite the opposite for me. yes your car isnt totalled after the first crash, but the amount of times i couldnt even make it out of Turn1 cause of someone just never touching his breakes and divebombing 5 cars at once... i stopped counting =D and then you slowly crawl your way back into the field, to then get kicked of track by the same guy 2 laps later, while i get the penaltys for "avoidable contact" ;)

​@@xalunkx5546 Thanks, I'm a fulltime musician I wish I had more experience in the sim actually 😅 It's obvious question, but have you tried default settings with no damper and center spring? and then giving a hint of mechanical trail for rear end feel and reducing a bit pneumatic so your wheel doesn't drop off hard on the fronts. And also lowering a bit FFB self steer alignment if the center of the wheel is too stiff. Don't raise load, vibration 40 or lower and try reducing a bit road detail for cleanup. try to get the most "raw" ffb signal possible before applying any dampening filters and only apply those when what happens on track with the car is replicated on the ffb. Maybe steering input sensitivity at 50 not at 100. 1 of those 2 "sensitivity" settings at the end in forza should be in degrees of rotation. then you leave wheelbase at 900 and adjust on wheelbase for each car? I noticed that forza is so overcomplicated that you have 3 points to adjust steering degress of rotation lock to lock. Steering sensitivity slider (settings) Steering Wheel lock slider (tunning menu) Steering lock on wheelbase (ffb software) Adjusting more than 1 of these 3 from default with result in horrible FFB because it will "compress" or "decompress" the signal adjusting to the movement of the wheel. I get it we're on the same boat regarding wanting a less hardcore experience, something casual and fun without much fuss. It's odd that Forza Motorsport while trying to be simcade and accessible (and maybe it is for xbox and PS5 controller users) but it requires some effort to enjoy it. For those MP crashes just bind the start button easy to reach so you "phase out" in T1. I've learned that by watching guys phasing out and in quickly in tricky situations. Unfortunately I went from A to D just because of rammers that try to avoid getting passed on straights and then wreck themselves. Like on that last insanely fast left hander on Suzuka any contact there ends in the very deep gravel trap and I get a penalty because the guy killed himself there. I just wish so hard Forza would allow full simulation damage in multiplayer because then the races would be forced to be much cleaner otherwise 70% of the field would just instantly leave, leaving only clean racers, which I wouldn't mind. In public assetto servers I like it when there is full dmg. only bad part is when people Teleport to pits just to come back out and wreck others but in forza lapped traffic is phased so no issues there. and in AMS2 you can't TP to the pits and come back out. you're either still able to drive there or if you destroy the car it's auto DNF. like forza should be. just that single thing would improve so much the racecraft and respect on track, since many people would drop rating very hard and also a report system for purposeful wrecking driving like in World Sim Series platform. If a sim treats players very seriously then everyone takes it seriously. If the game is too unserious then everybody starts cheesing it too hard. look at iRacing, proper formation lap, safety car, etc... more sims need that to be properly respected. Otherwise they're more like games. F1 games physics and FFB are worse than forza, but the whole experience is more polished and the racing rules and AI are more serious, contact is more serious and it replicates IRL rules and what you see on TV so much better than anything else that that failed franchise only sells because of that. (I have F2018 and F2023)

It's crazy how the performance jump from the "boxy" sata 2,5 sdd drives into the m.2 nvme storage is bigger than the jump the old ssd drives had over the mechanical hard drives with spinning plates. I wanted to overlay simhub stuff during gameplay (like a personalized dash or anything) but if I want to record win+obs will take 1gb of vram already.

This is arcady easy fun and relaxing. Assetto Corsa is by far my favourite simulation software if you check the channel. But it is not a game, there isn't much to "game" there, there aren't even "playful" activities. It's down to actually knowing setups cars and tracks and figuring out mechanics and physics and acquiring proper driving technique. When I saw European Le Mans Series 2023 I saw Algarve Pro Racing Team win the LMP2 category. That team uses International Endurance Racing Simulations Assetto Corsa mods in their simulations.

Thanks, ah yes you are right I wasted braking power by braking while turning. Maybe I wasn't trusting much in the driver in front and wanted to avoid the same line. I don't remember 😂 Sometimes I wish LFS had real world inspired cars and tracks. Since day 1 the ffb always felt good in any device I've ever used on it. I know licencing is tricky. RSS use funky names for their mods because of that. If LFS had more content and real tracks I would've spent a lot more time on it, even if missing a bit on graphics rain time rules etc. Because it was one of the very first sim's I ever tried with my Logitech wheel, I ended up using it as a reference (as well as some other things) so every time I have a big change in my rig by trying to replicate some of my hotlaps and have a reference for comparison.

I tend to use the ffb nm really high, sometimes too high to the point where it becomes like a gym workout. Even on my "new" SimLab GT1evo, I can make the base support shake a bit in some videos. I just researched about it online and it was because the previous owner mounted the baseplate without the shims between the big screws and the part. I just fixed it recently and I do have some ideas on how to reinforce both sides of the aluminium profile but I can't find a local metalworking company that would provide me the hardware parts needed. When I get a change to record another video with a wider view I'll be sure to check the vibrations. But I'm getting the feeling that unless you do some insane reinforcing and get a specially good base support system, using close to 100% of full nm of high end bases is very demanding on any cockpit. Beware of high FFB, I'm close to 1,95m tall (6feet5) take prozis fusion whey, creatine, LMB6, omega3, and around 100g to 150g of protein every day. For me using 75% (15nm) with a 270mm wheel like the small formula v2.5 is a fun challenge and I do enjoy feeling the extra details and the rawness of the experience but depending on ergonomics and grip it can mess up the wrists.

I found a video just before of someone who reinforced the pedal plate to the point where it doesn't move anymore! He used extra profile metal and made it himself! You will find it if you search for Playseat Trophy Pedal Plate. I would always try to find what ever Nm and kg of force would be most realistic for which ever car I would be driving. For nutrition I highly highly recommend looking up Dr. Paul Saladino. The best nutritional information you will find.

@@caaarlos not sure where my comment went. But I highly recommend looking up Dr. Paul Saladino, the best nutritional advise you will find.

I think I used the Thrustmaster TLCM with both hard red springs and later on other videos the Clubsport V3 with Brake Performance Kit (hardest elastometer setting on manual). On both the load cell settings were maxed (100kg and 90kg respectively). If there was flex in the structure I wasn't experienced enough to sense it at the time while driving, I did add another strap on my back to reinforce the actifit and make it feel tighter.

@@caaarlos yeah there is definitely flex you will see it in Will's video on Boosted Media. I'm trying to find out at what point it doesn't flex, would only be able to test with a camera.

Next time you try it 😇

They usually last way more. The only careful thing is to avoid dust getting inside the pedal potentiometers. Now for the base itself, it probably has some controller PCB board and without the proper diagnosing tools it's very unlikely for us to find if any electronic component failed. It can look all fine and if a capacitator, resistor or inductor fails it can be really hard to detect. Even most technicians will just measure power readings in certain checkpoints of the circuit and if the circuit has failed they just ask to order a new pcb instead of looking for individual components. It can be very time consuming and the charge on hourly rate can make the process of finding the component more expensive or as expensive as the new pcb while some individual components can be insanely hard to find. Sorry for your wheelbase man. I hope you've found a suitable replacement.

thanks!

Oh man I do love those cars. Recently I drove the Mazda 787B at Nurburgring at someone else's livestream and these old cars are so feisty and fun! I'm not sure if there are really good modpacks to recreate those 80s and 90s. If I could afford the WSS premium I would create such championships.

@@caaarlos yea to be honest, I’d be satisfied with a league having just the Kunos modeled Sauber, Porsche and Mazda offerings that come with the game. I really wish LFM had a Vintage Group C endurance series. I recently posted a video on my sim racing channel hotlapping the 962C at Le Mans (No Chicanes) and had an absolute blast booking it 220+ mph down the Mulsanne.

@@caaarlos ua-cam.com/video/66-NQDbL5Hs/v-deo.htmlsi=ETCCkzQCJS3Evy8U

@@rugbyguitargod some of the original AC content is so good it's still quite up to date. every sim is hit and miss but the AC experience has been on a different level for me. Can you tell me the name of the sim racing channel?

@@caaarlos @fullmetalracingesports3169

I miss it dearly

Thanks for the comment man! Enjoy it and have fun!

I really miss it, might be getting it again but the V2.

When AC is on sale public lobbies get a flood of reckless kids that eventually get their accounts banned and eventually things calm down. In some cases I’ve found players that have some high ranking due to less than adequate driving.

Hi it was "fixed setup race" (fixed in thumbnail). So default setup.

It's not really a TV stand, it's Ewent Ew1512, a cheap monitor arm holder, that screws into a desk.

It used to work a while ago, doesn't work anymore after some update. I have tried to find anything working without much success. Anyway, it was called LFS Lazy

@@caaarlos thanks

Thanks! There is still room for improvement! I used simhub, with a free overlay for input telemetry. Maybe I edited the background to be black. You need to find the correct strings for your input device in simhub since it won't be relying on game telemetry.

ACC ffb gain 75, Fanalab ffb strenght 65. The monitor is an AOC with a long name, but you can see a list of my equipment in the video description of this hotlap for example: ua-cam.com/video/aGRunM-vbkQ/v-deo.html

Thank You. I mean I don't have Fanatec Wheel but I asked because I was curious. I have Thrustmaster TX Leather Edition but don't know how much FFB should I use. Maybe you have any recommendations?

​@@im6s84 Well, since you wheel doesn't have that much power, I would use 100% or 95% on the Thrustmaster software. In game, to get more detail overall you need to saturate more around 85% to 90% ffb strenght, depending on how much ffb clipping you allow to tolerate. Film the telemetry (phone or screeen rec) while driving and later try to remember if u feel like the ffb force isn't telling u anything about the car, like on a fast heavy turn u don't feel the rear slide. and then check in the vid to see if ur ffb was all red, having clipping spikes or not. keep in mind that you will have to tolerate more of that the lower force wheel u have. if u check my g923 videos on spa w 458gt2 in AC, I did get a fair bit of clipping. However direct drives or gear system wheels do not have belt-wear. Something that old CSL elites and belt-driver thrustmaster will eventually develop. I loved the TS-PC but I just know that long-term quality wise a DD will have less wear under extreme use with heavier settings. PS - another advice, depending on your taste, is to lower or use 0% damping on the TM software. Damping can add weight and make it feel more realistic, but competitively too much damping will disguise and mask the feel of the rear end of the car. If your FFB is to spiky and janky then you might want to add a bit of damping. Usually even with janky ffb that wants to move in a straight line i tend to use as little damping as i can. not completely removing it all the time, but i try to have it a bit lower than most settings i've ever seen online.

Wow. I wasn't expecting you will response with that amount of details but thank you very much. It will definitly help me in time By the way. There is one more question I want to ask if we are in that topic and It's just a personal opinion. Would you buy two Steering Wheels from Thrustmaster. The Thrustmaster Sparco P310 and Ferrari 488 GT3 Replica or buy MOZA R5 Bundle with Formula Wheel Mod. Now I'm just thinking because It's almost the same price. Almost. But I don't know what to do. Is there any sense to buy two Wheels or just buy New Setup with DD Wheel and Formula Wheel Mod and I will have two good Wheels anyway

​@@im6s84 Bettween DD and no DD at same price, I would go DD. U're telling me about getting 2 TM wheels, but no base upgrade. The wheel upgrade won't really change the FFB feeling that much compared to getting a DD base. But 5nm is quite low unless its a cammus C5 that peaks at 7nm and 5nm is the base holding torque. IDK about Moza, i've read about overheating but i can't be sure, i would research about small DD long term use. idk if they have an R9 model, at least that one would be more usable since ull get much more ffb readroom to have more detail and less clipping, so u have base at 100% but ingame u can start to lower the ffb force % and get less red spikes on the ffb bar. (which translates to more detail during heavy ffb load) TBH, i had a BMW GT2 v1 before having the F1 bundle, i miss the GT2 wheel, but with either GT2 or F1 wheel my DD1 is what gives me the FFB, and i had 2 different dd1's. 2 Wheels is a luxury when you are already satisfied with base and ffb and just want more imersion. TBH for competitive driving you might even want a rim that is not too large , instead of 320mm realistic, since the bigger the rim the more physical natural dampening happens on the ffb mechanism. Thats why ppl went crazy w cammus, because the ffb engine is inside the wheel and with zero damping u get better feel. You don't want tecnology that is too old and dated and will not be suported in the future (like belt driven) but you also dont want the latest expensive fanatec base (cuz u dont know what future issues it might have) U go for the middle ground ,something that is good tech, reliable, gonna stay for years to come w software support and ecosystem added and has been proven to be long lasting without trouble, software is optimized. When i got the DD1 back then Fanatec had the best software implementation ffb and across all dif titles i enjoy, the fanatec ffb was the most consistent where u could config profiles to replicate the driving feel across all different sims.

Well, depending on how tight the fit is on your Actifit, you might end up tightening it up hard enough that you'll appear taller than me. After using the actifit for a while I noticed I tended to leave it a bit loose, and I even had some screws that hold the back arms in place dig a bit into the actifit due to leaving it a bit loose on the bottom side. This was to compensate for the fact that I am 1,95m (195cm), on the tallest side. The wheelbase could've been slanted a bit higher because it was a bit low for me, which feels nice on the arms/chest muscles. But for driving on my new rig I ended up putting the wheelbase a tiny bit higher. (shorter ppl like my 1,55cm gf need a pillow under them otherwise they will have the wheel almost in front of their eyes, almost like in f1)

Hi, maybe I've tried it in F1 2018, recently last year I got 2023. The FFB from the F1 games feels quite a bit dampened compared to AC, even ACC and AMS1 and 2. U can use 100% ffb force on the Thrustmaster Software: Force 100, Constant 100, Periodic 100, but you can fiddle around with Spring and Damper from 0 to 50 for lighter "static weight" of turning wheel effort. But those sliders don't seem to add much information about the car and ffb behaviour. Usually I try to lower as much damping forces and smoothing forces as I can specially in lower wheels because the Belt mechanisms are already a bit dampened. Then the wheel might feel a bit lighter than with all at 100% but the effects will come through a bit stronger and clearer. On the F1 games there are some ffb settings aswell but I dont really remember fooling around much with sliders. Depending on base u might want to have more overal Force to compensate lower nm bases. (mind the TS PC is quite powerful and surprisingly good at the 200€ I got it at the time back then when cheap DDs weren't as readily available.) (now we have cammus C5) Don't forget to put 300 or 360 degress on TM software and then on the F1 game so ur real life turning aligns with the screen hands and also u get a more realistic feeling of turning the car! (Many sims u can leave 1080 or have "auto" and everything is adjusted automatically for you but in this case of the F1 games you actually need to change the steer rotation manually everytime you log into the game) (W Fanatec I can save profiles for each game so i forget about that detail since the Fanalab software does it for me automatically and some games I can save each profile for each car inside the "game name" tab. smol QOL features etc) GL HF I hope this helped anything else just ask.

@@caaarlos great amazing feedback really appreciated! On my experience I play only on console PS4 I know you gave me a bunch of insight using this wheel on pc. I def know that this wheel works only for PC. But I also know that the TS-PC and the TGT II basically share same motor. So I’ve been looking on reviews for the TGT II but everyone seems to be only playing GT sports and GT7 cuz the wheel is advertised for those games specifically. But I was just wondering how good could be playing other games. I’m a big fan of F1 games pretty what I like to play the most, I’m just not finding the right settings for the T300. I solve the overheating issue but I feel that’s not helping the FFB completely. The T300 lacks on detail and grip playing F1 games. I found that the best one for the T300 performance is when playing F1 2020 all their newest ones are really bad with the T300. SO I really wanna know is this bases TS-PC the TGT II are a step up I will assume from the T300 in all aspects? Thank you so much for your time!

​If i want to really feel the car, even F2P live for speed or RRRE with certain settings, will feel better. but then comparing to AC, ACC, AMS1, AMS2, rF2... all those are much better. And even AMS1 needs special settings cuz it's ffb settings are a bit quirky. all the serious sims also have some very bad flaws regarding physics and simulation but most content (tracks n cars) feels way more believable. Even old outdated F2P stuff has better ffb, like any simbin demo (GTR evo demo) or Live for Speed or Raceroom (I had to fiddle a bit w my settings on this one). All F2p all have way better FFB than any F1 game. Stepping up on the base will improve the game feel for sure but even with a DD1 I don't think much of F2023 ffb. Maybe explain me better your specific dislike on the F1 game ffb? Too light in the center? Lack of detail? car slides and you don't feel it? or you feel the car sliding but the ffb is just really slow delivering info? it's hard to troubleshoot without very specific details and info. Now about bases: I've had the G923 and the TS-PC being 6nm was a really nice upgrade, for you the T300 is 4nm, but you'll get a bit more clarity and quality since the belt is stronger on the TS-PC. If you research "T300 belt repair" or "TSPC belt repair" you'll see pictures of the mechanisms and both bases have a belt connected to gears to work. This will always give a bit more dampened feel than any direct drive. Some have an extra snappy feeling due to new tecnology design like the cammus C5, which is insanely light and undampened. The thing is the C5 feels stronger because it's rated at 5nm constant and for many years brands only advertised "peak force". Like the DD1 is really 15nm constant and only 20nm as peak force. I see you want to keep inside thrusmaster ecosystem maybe you have other peripherals, in that case the T818 is by far the best choice regarding ffb str detail and adjustability but IMHO Thrustmaster as a whole lagged behind with their plastic QR (i don't really trust it, also TSPC is strong enough to notice minimal flex on QR) You can still be quick and competitive (pedals are more important) A portuguese guy won an iRacing prize with Heusinkveld Sprints and a Logitech G29. The belts have visible grooves and indentations that wear overtime and an old belt base might be less precise even if everything else is perfect the belts do wear off. This is why everybody raved about similar priced DDs and the bases CSL elite and Clubsport v2.5 were discontinued as CSL DD was launched. The TS-PC upgrade over the T300 might be noticeable but it will be marginal when compared to switching to a DD and provided that you find an insanely good deal like i had at the time 200€ (half price) on a "new old stock" brand new TSPC with full warranty on a retail store. You'll still need a steering wheel etc. OFC thrustmaster gear does look much nicer than the cammus c5 or some other brands. The CSL DD might be going cheap on 2nd hand when ppl want to switch to the DD+ etc. The market lost interest in the 200 or 300 range price bracket and what used to be the "midrange" price bracket is almost the new "entry range" regarding having most features and reliability (DD vs belt vs gears). G923 to TS-PC was more "brutal" strenght and info increase than TS-PC to DD1. Eventually you reach diminishing returns. I loved the TS-PC and for a long while I would say that I would be happy with it if i didn't find good DD1 deals. But after this long I should've done DD1 reviews. The Fanatec software is miles better, profile saving ogranised by game tabs, some games u can link ffb profiles to cars. I have hundreds of ffb profiles. I can edit the ffb feel while driving even mid race just by pressing a button on the steering wheel and using a funky switch. I can edit led color and behaviour, etc. I really don't want to give up any of these QOL features. you usually run 80% ffb but mid endurance 2h race you feel your arms tired? reduce to 75% or 70%. U can reduce 1% each lap so u get used to lower force without missing details. DDs won't need belts replaced. etc the Cammus is not like the other chinese knock off brands or else Moza would be another of those, they just copied and made their improvements over fanatec. From my researches I'm a bit weary of Moza due to overheating reliability issues from the past. And from the fact that they try to present themselves as upgrades on the outside but I don't see any extra quality for the cost and the ecosystem is smaller. I've had a friend swear by his C5 and he sold is simcube 2 pro to live abroad, so I do trust his opinion on how good the C5 is as an entry level. in the end, if all this is mainly about the F1 games, I wouldn't consider too much the wheelbase. I've been really busy (no vids lately) but I gotta try to find the time for some laps in F1 2023. Sometimes when I get some "uncanny" feeling on a game I just don't want to drive it as much and pickup bad habits that will mess up my driving on real simulators. It's like going from Gran Turismo to AC or ACC expecting to still be fast lolol. And if a game is too unrealistic, when you drive realistically you're too slow because you're supposed to be slamming the gas on corner exit instead of smoothly applying it like in reality.

AC makes many behaviours more obvious and also tried to go for "hyper informative" FFB. I also enjoyed AMS1 even if less polished. AMS 2 nowadays after all the crazy recent updates, was trying to go for a behaviour that was more nuanced and progressive like in Live for Speed. I never heard much of netKar pro. I find it funny how on any wheel I had, the LFS FFB felt informative and consistent. G923, TSPC, DD1... I just had to move 1 slider, strength.

thanks, in T1 i did 90kmh at 2nd gear, i never got to 1st gear. but in general i should shifter later and try to apex at 110? that is really sending it! Thanks! 😁

no need for 1st gear, keep it in 2nd, and slow down to around 100 for the apex, but start accelerating before hitting it, also don't go all the way out on to the kerb, it makes you lose time@@caaarlos

😂 muito sofrimento ficar repetindo cada round, tem sempre que fazer o sprint dnv, n dá para repetir só a corrida... se a pontuação estiver boa tbm n precisa ganhar sempre. E no sprint é pior porque basta 1 ou 2 acidentes que já nem tem tempo de recuperar, as vezes numa corrida longa ainda dá. experimenta limitar fps a 60, porque a fisica está ligada aos FPS nesse jogo, entao se tiver muitos ou poucos carros e os FPS mudarem, a conduçao do carro tbm muda... ahahah

@@caaarlos Muito obrigado pelas dicas meu amigo! Eu não sabia disso, lhe agradeço muito.

@@caaarlos Você também tem algumas skins para os carros? Eu baixei quase todas do Samuel Tournier e do Jurrie

​@@CarlosPilot eu saquei algumas mas apenas funcionam para o player. Acho que a IA nao usa skins extra. Eu gostava de saber como modificar esse jogo, reprograma-lo. Substituir nos campeonatos os touring cars por Lister Storm e ter corridas longas com pitstop e estrategia de Lister Storm que seria basicamente GT. Sei que há um cheatcode para fazer o campeonato ter as corridas com "duração realistica" mas é facil demais com os touring cars. Vi jogos como o Le Man 24H de PS1 que também saiu para PC e foi re-editado para Dreamcast e PS2 e 2a versao para PC. Em todos eles os volantes funcionam mal, ou on off, ou falta de sensibilidade (ta programado para controlador) ou problemas de FPS. (bloqueado a 25) Queria conseguir recriar corridas longas no Toca2, ter outros carros custom, outras pistas. Alguns dos carros e pistas bonus dao a sensação que os programadores estavam se divertindo e inventando coisas que lhes apetecia. A codemasters estava muito à frente do seu tempo com o Toca2, bem mais realista que qualquer outro jogo de PS1. Aqui até fiz 1 video com telemetria de sim racing. ua-cam.com/video/jueToHKc-WU/v-deo.html

@@caaarlos Poderia me disponibilizar essas skins para download? Eu agradeceria muito!

In my old video I did 1.13.8 with a Logitech G923 with original G923 pedals. If you have a wheel and pedals and are able to control the car quick and smooth you'll get there with practice and with the setup I shared. GL HF

@@caaarlosthanks bro

fiquei mesmo orgulhoso! 💪

😁😅

Tienes que mirar cuando va a ser pitwalk

🏁🏁🏁

Hello I just posted a new video with a faster laptime, and with the setup that you asked showing at the end of the video! Cheers ua-cam.com/video/gAAX29ghVwk/v-deo.html

I hope that's a joke question? Logitech pedals here are like a schoolboy between two fully-grown dudes. Logitech G Pro Pedals would be another deal altogether.

Well as a general ecosystem I would personally go for Thrustmaster if budget wasn't limited. On a shorter budget the G923 is very cheap starter package. But using the TLCM instead of the original pedals helped me improve lap time beyond words. TBH IDK how they would compare to the G Pro pedals but the G Pro pedals are priced very steep and at a certain point it's worth going for something else. At 400€ I would rather get V3s and BPK then the Logitech G Pros, but I got my V3s on a used bundle and honestly the V3s are also a bit dated, nothing wrong with them... Just that it's really worth to invest in better pedals. Heusinkveld sprints , VRS, simagic p2000, azetek forte... infinite budget buyers would go with simcube active pedals but I would already be really happy if I found a way to upgrade from the V3s into hidraulic or any pedals that properly feel like a racecar.

Obrigado! Abraço

Wow, thanks for pointing out that unforeseen mistake! I corrected the ending UA-cam animation so that now the value can be read! Big thanks once again, cheers!

@@caaarlos no bother mate, I managed to figure it out. If you download the video it has not annotations at the end. Thanks for the setup, I'm not as fast, I'm 2.18.3 but that's during racing. I've not done a hotlap like you.

@@750li_Behemoth good luck and have fun. this car wants a smooth drive. special attention to temperatures rising, usually require smoother driving and taking care of the tires more. in a race a lockup or slide can kill the tires and ruin a good race even if you never had contact or went off track. you just loose the laptime you would otherwise have. this (spa + gt2) was the first i dominated in ac back in my g923 days and became my "baseline" reference that is why I hotlapped here so much. if i change screen position, fov, any gear, bucket position. ill test and see if i could practice to do another hotlap (if im close etc) usually if my times are way off , either im doing something wrong or i messed up my simrig configuration xD haha have a great time

@@caaarlos yeah I noticed that, it's a good setup to train smooth driving. I haven't played AC in months so hoping on and getting used to the physics again. The good thing is my average lap time is between 18 and 19 but mind I have a fuel load for 7 laps and soft tyres so by the time I am close to your fuel load my tyres are worse but the setup is good for racing, I prefer smooth driving. I actually race in VR, find it easier to see the scale of things. Plus the servers I race on don't allow it with abs, which adds to the learning curve. It's not as though I'm slow in the servers, usually qualify in the top 3 behind some one I plays AC all the time.

Here in Portugal it's usually sunny and i saw GT3 with sunny weather but ELMS (european le mans series) the weekend was sunny/cloudy but sunday race day it rained really hard the race had red flag and we had to wait a few hours for the race restart.

If the weather is "cloud" it means it's not going to rain too heavy. I pit at lap5 to lap6 when the rain starts and change from slicks to intermediates because intermediates will allow to drive clean on light rain it if does not get heavy rain like the race at knockhill. wets will be overkill because it's dinamic changeable weather and if the rain stops wet tires will be really bad but intermediates will allow to drive almost as good as before but just a bit slower and more careful because there is a bit less grip. it's not as bad as driving in heavy storm rain with wets. but the worse grip is driving with wets on a clean track or driving with slicks on a rainy track.