Відео

Hey, does someone know how exactly to move the laser and the magnet head? I cant figure it out

You greased the plastic gears right

I found the same spring on my speaker too 😂

I am the new owner of a CD-330, since I had to confirm my purchase and I couldn't even understand if the motor was good or not I had to fix the unit in a rush. It took my about 14 hours including a lot of cleaning and I took both flywheels out, lubricated, greased where needed, treated the ageing rubber idlers. The rewind problem in my unit was multi source. The rewind idler assembly directly wound by the motor with its dedicated belt in the non active state sits against the rewind sled which is activated by the rewind button. When the rod is moved forward by the action of the rewind button, the slope of the sled goes backwards allowing the tension provided by a spring on the rewind idler assembly to bring the idler forward and pushing onto the supply reel. In my case it was a combination of hardened rubber idler and deformed stop pin on the tensioner spring. I've got the rewind assembly out, treated the rubber and using a hot gun and a hot stapler straightened the ping and reinforced it from underneath with a metal staple. If the rubber on the idler was new it should have been enough, but despite the rubber treatment that noticeably softened the rubber the tension still wasn't enough. There are two adjustment positions on such spring and the end wire was still secured by the original glue in position II, the hardest setting from the factory. I tried with the tension of the spring out of the adjustment pegs and far to the left where somehow the spring could hang and the tension was barely enough to wind a TDK D90 cassette... a quite easy task. Desperate times called for desperate measures... not willing the cut the original spring tensioning wire I used my hot stapler to create a slot into the transport frame, moved and bent the tensioning wire into it, approximately at 9 o'clock from factory 12. This completely solved the rewind problem with more than enough torque. Despite that I was just about half way on the problem of the w&f. Despite a brand new pinch roller nothing changed as the unit's counter has one relay pulley too many. Of course everything was lubricated including the pinch roller shaft, the counter's relay pulleys were lubricated with silicone oil but it wasn't until I changed the belts to 0.7mm and definitely very loose ones that the freewheeling torque on the supply side subsided and with it the bad wow&flutter. It is quite a design limitation having two hard to turn plastic on metal bearings pulling on the supply reel, thus directly onto tape dragged by the capstan and pinch roller. The testimony of my good job was a measured speed of 2990 to 3000 Hz on the 3kHz tone, and the motor was on factory settings (it also had its front bearing lubricated with machine oil). Still not happy enough I unstuck the Mabuchi sticker from the back of the motor with my metal scraper tool without damage and set the speed between 3000 and 3010 Hz. It was a heck of a job considering I didn't plan to restore the unit... but in the end I did. Of course I have no idea how much it can last in this way with more tension than it's designed for. But should it ever fail again I am pretty sure I can find another way to tension the rewind idler. Still my ordeal wasn't over, I also had to deal with stuck VU meters and several other problems.

Tengo ese mismo modelo, y la bateria de goma de mascar no funciona, probare tu metodo para hacer la reparacion

Sled motor is flogged

The head is only for RECORDING, while the lasers is for play back

There was the point you fixed anything?

hi! my md recorder model 909.. play mode not problem but record system have problems. the recording process looks normal, but when i end the recording the toc deletes it. when the recording is finished, i have an empty blank md disk

how did you solve the problem that arose right before you quickly turned power off?

On my WM22 the FF and REW work just fine but the play doesnt work anymore

still waiting :) did you every find an instructions...ive almost given up trying to find anything.

Brilliant! Just purchased one with exact same problem. Removed the platter, and gave it a shake. Yeah, I can tell, it's the same two pieces rattling around inside the plinth! This video, will make the repair a breeze. Thanks for posting this.

Soetimes the disc are defective. i have a MZ-N707, that i was buyed for usd 10 with no read , i clean the optical unit, include internal lenses, with a self made earcotton (i put a cotton around a rigid coper computer network cable), and works! I have another one, with display broken and optical unit competely destroyed (MZ-R500), where cai i foun this optical units for sale?

How do you get case off without destroying it?

Bro thanks for your video fixed my JVC used a piece of paper clip and got it tight around the stud with a pair of pliers kept pieces in place now it works tip top!

Are those pieces go to the cog underneath the spindle or the tone arm cog?

How did you remove the Tonearm lift? Whenever I try the Tonearm just gets in the way. Do you have to remove the arm?

Great to see more people still using their old Amigas these days.

how do you open the top?! i am perplexed

Looking for someone to repair my minidisc player i the USA. Thanks for any suggestions.

found the same TT at a thrift for 6.99 and has the same issue. i hear something rattling inside. wish me luck! thanks for the vid

Replace this original rubber with the rubber belt of any turntable and fold it so that it fixes in the lifting mechanism .This experiment is also good .Double fold is a must so that it slides down in the place meant for the rubber and does not come out from the slot .

I couldn't find the part 3. I wanted to replace the banana plugs as well.

I have one of these branded as an open univesity generascope 2 and I lived in Kent too

Great Video. My L-F41 had exactly the same issue. So this helped me a lot. Thanks.

I Own One Of These Purchased off a Work Colleague For a Large Sum Of Money In 1982. As Someone Has Already Said, There Are 4 Cassette Deck Main Mountings Three Screws And 1 Long Spacer With a Self Tapping Thread On The Cassette Deck Holding End Of The Spacer And A Tapped Machine Thread Of M2.5 With A Flat Blade Screwdriver Slot Cut Across The Centre Of That Tapped Machine Thread. The C Clips Are correctly called Circlips, Some Incorrectly Call Them Eclips. The Wiring Is A Product Of Consumer And Semi Professional/Professional Equipment For Domestic and Also Military Printed Circuit Board PCB Designs of The Sixties Through To The Late Nineteen Nineties And Early Two Thousands. The British/UK, America And Japan, As Do/Did Hong Kong, China Korea, Malaya, Philippine, Singaporean Manufacturers And All Of Europe And Russia, All Used Standard Resin Bonded Paper PCBs, Using Epoxy Resins, (Glue) To Laminate Layers Of Phenolic Paper Together To Create A Mounting Connection Medium, For The Components/Wires Etc, With Etched Copper/Tinned, (Solder Tinned Plated Tracks In Later years Of PCB Production, Printed Circuit Adhered By High Temperature Epoxy Resin Glue To One Side Of The PCB), Also Epoxy Resin Glass Fibre/Fibre Glass PCBs Were Used In More Specialist Applications For Military, Test Equipment Or Laboratory Or Other Specialist Equipment Production And Largely Superseded SRPB PCBs In All Except To This Day Consumer General Electronics Production, With The Exceptions Of Cell Phones, Computers Of All Types Related Peripheral Equipment Manufactured Using Epoxy GF/FG Dual Sided or Greater Layers Of Connection Within The PCB Layers. Wiring Is Actually More Reliable To PCBs And Tag Boards Than Mounted To PCB, Pots, Sockets And Other Mechanical Components with Weight Or External To The PCB Mechanical Mountings, That Have Stresses On The Solder Joint On Both Leaded And Unleaded Solders That Are Harder Than Leaded Solder, Which Tends To Be More Malleable, Soldered Correctly, Not A Dry Jointed/High Resistance Joint And Both Types Of Solder Joint Through Flexing/Mechanical Stresses Or Vibration Can Fracture, Also Causing Dry Jointed High resistance Or Intermittent Soldered Joints. Lastly The Bearing Diamond Shaped Plate, yellow/Brass Colour/Color, Does Not Need to Be Dismantled From The Main Steel Plate To Facilitate Belt Renewal/Removal On The Two Fly Wheels And Motor Dual Pulley. Isopropyl Alcohol Or Methylated Spirit Is best Used for Removal Of The Sticky Belts from The Pully And Fly Wheels And Other Drives/Rubber Tyred Idler Wheels That Are On The Top Side/Cassette Side Of the Deck, It Is Also A Good Idear, To Replace The Drive Tyres Too, as These Can Also End Up A Sticky Mess If Made From The Same Formulation Of Synthetic Rubber, the Problematic Replacement is The Very thin Tyre Just Below the Right Hand Cassette Take Up Spindle, It Becomes Over Flexible and Compresses more than It Should And Causes Wow And Flutter Which Is Very Noticeable On Violin And Most Orchestral Or Other Music. I Have Not Found Anyone Who Can Supply This Tyre, My Last hope Is Marantz In The USA Who Used The Same Deck In Some Machines Sold Over There For Musician Practice Recording Analysis, PD Series Machines These Were If My Memory Serves Me Correctly. Also Use The Suggested Alcohols To Degrease All Pulleys Belts Tyres Drive Pulleys Flywheels Etc And Remove residues From Hands Only !! Using old Rags. Do Not De-oil Or Degrease Bearings with Any Cleaner/Chemical And Do Not Adjust White Plastic Bearing Screws These Are Factory Set For Life Of The Machine. That Switch Is The Playback/ Record Functions Switch And The White Lever, Under The Deck Engages With it, It has To Be Assembled Back with A No Mechanism or The Mechanism Buttons Activated

That's weird. ZD-915 desoldering station looks exactly like this one ua-cam.com/video/_Ar05rKqoEI/v-deo.html

Greetings from Argentina: I got a Superscope CD 310 cassette player. Unfortunately the motor has been removed and I have no idea what speed it is (2400, 3200) or its direction of rotation. I supose it's 6v from what the tester says. Can anybody help me?. I would really like to restore it to its former glory. Thank you very much in advance.

And now I'm going to go listen to Coheed and Cambria. It's been awhile thank you for the reminder 😊

How did you lift up and turn over the main mechanism after the last video? I'm struggling to get to the gears on mine.

Thanks for this. Great stuff to learn from

Where did you get that washer, and do u know the size of it?

The board in my a1200 takes the whole trapdoor bay up, it also has old style ram cards on it. I’ll have to dig it out and find out what the card is and details I remember it had a battery back up on it. I’ve also got a cfcard to fit as my hard drive has finally failed I’ve got the cable and adopter and the cf card 8gb I have partitioned the card in to tiny blocks now so Amiga can see the space. Once set up I might have to find the software for my trapdoor card as it was on my old hard drive.

i didn't have to remove the transport section like you did. It kinda flips out all together if you unscrew a few things here and there. Motor, mechanism and the play rev fwd etc part, all together. I think it is hopeful to install new belts now.

pity you didn't show the hidden screws, because guess what my problem is...

Good on you for trying!

I think I would have added some silicone lubricant to the gears of the laser

Regardless of any success in carrying out this kind of investigation and repair, this is invaluable information. Products like this are fast becoming extinct! Thank you for going to the trouble and showing the world this. Keep it up!

I think that all of the Amiga tutorials and videos don't need to be tech-wisely ultra correct. Besides, SysInfo is a standard on every turbo-card review. Thank you for this one!

A lot of minidisc players on eBay are listed as “not working”, quite often it’s simply because the seller either doesn’t have a minidisc to test it, the minidisc they do have is blank or broken or they don’t have the correct battery or power source to test it.

Can the auto stop be adjusted?

Can you give me this walkman?

Thanks picked one up for 5 bucks with the same problem thanks to your video my turntable is as good as new.

I got mine for about 10$ cash with no head or needle

Great I made a DIY arduino based version Its in my channel along with the required files

When I was in high school (in Canada) they were popular. After Apple released the iPod they dropped like flys. As soon as the iPhone came out they were gonzo

12:40 it's all gone a bit Pete Tong

Anyone know? Does this turntable have a wooden base?

I had a Hi-md back in the day. I used it everyday at work and in the car. My son tore it apart when he found it. Wish I would have attempted fixing it. I got myself an older MD but it isn't working anymore.