Відео

Absolutely! But I’m currently on vacation and cannot check the exact device type for you…😊

😅😍

If you did exactly what I did, your battery is probably dead. See if you have warranty. If not, you have to buy a new one my friend….

@kaspersworkshopmanners hi I think it's the fuse. Gonna try to make that👌 thanks for the help tho

@kaspersworkshopmanners I had just solderd a thin wire between the fuse and now it is working like normal. You do need to watch out because there is no fuse in the battery and you can fry now the whole battery. But thanks for still replying and helping😁 hope other people can also learn from this

Thank you so much Ken!

On Amazone, great place 😉

Hahaha!! 😅👍

Thank you hasserecht! Actually I did not want to use filler but sanding the deep pitting was really hard. Normally I’m not affraid of these kind of jobs but this was a real pain. Hope you enjoyed watching and thanks for taking the initiative of leaving a reaction! 👍

@@kaspersworkshopmanners Yeah don't get me wrong. The restauration is insane. In my case i just love the appeal of the rough cast iron. For me sandblasting and painting would have been enough. But hey it's your project and the amount of love you put in to it is awesome.

Hmmm, interesting question… I think it might work…. I see another video comming up! Sorry for my late reaction by the way…if you already tried this, please let me know. If I can find some time, I like to try this….

@@kaspersworkshopmannersI Havent tried yet but i’ve followed the same process like you but i doesn’t work. My graphite paint is under 200 Omhs and it does not work :/

Hi Egon, Bedankt! Ja messing is perfect voor nickelplating! Veel oude voorwerpen die ‘zilver’ lijken zijn vernickeld messing. Reiniging blijft hetzelfde. Succes met jouw project!

Hi Lessie, mostly these chairs are chrome coated. It is a unhealthy process to remove the chrome with chemicals. Maybe you can try sandbalsting or sanding? But give it a try to copperplate over the original coating! Maybe the result is just fine!

@@kaspersworkshopmanners Thanks for the reply! I want to ultimately try it out on a metal door that I have. Can you explain the battery part and where you purchased it? I was able to find all of the other items.

Hahaha, that is exactly how it works nowadays! 😂 Constantly on the lookout for a new project and if necessary I rip your porch light off the wall! 😂 Just kidding in this case the neighbours asked if I could help. Thanks for the compliment at the end! 🙏🏻

@@kaspersworkshopmanners I wish I knew a restorer near me. I have a literal ton of shit from tools to farm implements to furniture. All sorts of stuff.

Hmm, a clean, polished hammer, looks ideal to me for copperplating. Work clean, pure copper, looow currency😉 If the licenceplate cover was nickelplated, the copper will not hold…why? I actually don’t know. Maybe you can sandblast the existing coating of and then try to copperplate the bare metal.

No, the dissolved copper ions in the solution is what plates the anode, so you need it The richer the solution the faster the plating. However as long as you have some pure copper and an electrolyte medium (usually an acid + deionized water) you can make your own solution. Alternatively buy ready-made copper sulfate. Pure copper is fairly easy to get from old discarded wiring ect. and since plating is usually very thin a little can go a long way.

I think TheStigma gave the answer…. 😉

Hahaha, exactly! My shop is to small to own all the good stuff! Maybe I have to buy a house with a decent workshop first!😂 Please share my video’s so I can finaly earn some money!🥴 But thanks for your comments, it means more than money can buy and really give a boost. So thank you very much much Susan! 🙏🏻

Thank you susan, that means a lot! A new one is finally on the way! 😅

🙏🏻 I’m blushing…😊

Thanks Billy Bob, I’ll definitely try that next time! 👍🏻

@@kaspersworkshopmanners The reason for this is because water is split at a voltage of over 1.23 Volts. The water splitting is the reason for the bubbles. Thanks for the reply.

Hello! Great tip! I am needing some help with bigger pieces, like around 1000 cm² of surface area, would you know how can I calculate the voltage for such a piece? Or should I just let it for longer?

@@heitorp.c.1327 I know that such a formula exists, but I don't know it. But leaving the piece in for longer should give the same result.

I've been watching a few videos about plating at home and I think I wanna try it out. Currently in the process of cleaning/fixing up an old 1988 Yamaha Moto 4 350 ATV. Finally picked up an ultrasonic cleaner and some Evaporust to deal with all the nuts and bolts but now I need to figure out a good ay to protect them. As far as nickel plating at home what is the cheapest way to go about it but get good results still? There's so many videos and so many ways to go about it. I do have an old battery charger but if a power supply would give me better results I don't mind spending a little just don't know here to even begin as far as what kind I would need.

I understand your quest, yes you can dilute but not with distilled water! Please use vinegar to dilute. But better leave the nickel in longer during the brewing process to, to get a proper solution. I would love to see the tank project!

Thank you! I did turn it on at the and right before I put on the decals. I thought a test would not add any value in this case… maybe I’m wrong.🤔 I’ll bare this in mind for future video’s!

Wow, thank you very much Arshad! That really means a lot to me! 🙏🏻

Because…?

Hi Brett, the better the current can flow the easier the result. With a voltage regulator you can influence this behaviour. I play a little with the regulator but never ran into problems because of conductivity. If the nickel will not stick, just leave it in longer, and wiggel your part once in a while.

@@kaspersworkshopmanners I have tried 0.8 V with a current of 1.5 so I would need to up my current? And thanks

Hi Firehouse! Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin. Although I never tried I believe you can only plate with one metal. And only in it’s purest form. You could try to copperplate tin…. But I would try to copperplate your piece and darken the result with vineagar or maybe a bluing fluid. Just some thoughs here…🥴

Thank you Terry! For you compliments and your subscription! I really appreciate that… It really is a huge motivation to keep producing content. The number of subs are growing but there has to be some patience involved 😉

Hi! Exactly, if it’s not turning green, it means there is something wrong. The color of green can vary though. A light green is OK, if you leave the nickel in longer it will turn darker. The ‘cooking’ of the solution takes approximately one hour. Do you use (almost) pure nickel? About nickelplating lead… I’m not sure if it will work or, as you mention, only change color beacause of the acid… Please, try to find out if your nickel is realy nickel. Follow my proces again and first try to nickel plate a copper coin that is cleaned. I hope this helps you a bit further!

Well, shout out to you for that question! 👍🏻 The concentration of my brand cleaning vineagar is 7%. I think that if you use a higher concentration, you should go lower on current otherwise you will burn your piece. Maybe in some cases it will speed up the proces but I would recommend to keep things in control by keeping the concentration low.

Haha, you are absolutely right! I have a good share of the collection of this brand and sometimes (special offer) a tool comes with one or two 2ah batteries. The batteries are exchangeble and there is a 4ah version to so I have these a well. I’m not sure if this brand has an 8ah version….

Well, not being a scientist here’s my unprofessional answer to your very good question 😉 Acid is corrosive and what we would like to do is to transform the outer layer of our piece to let the copper stick to that surface or blend with the surface.

Plating requires high purity to get good results. That is why deionized water is recommended. Tap water contains small amounts of many other compounds that could make imperfections. Another common mistake is not cleaning and degreasing perfectly. Any contaminants on the surface (like skin oils from touching without clean gloves) will make the plating quality poor.

Thank you so much! 🙏🏻

Thanks slackjaw! I’m happy to hear that you liked this one! 🙏🏻

Almost! 😉 You sould see my other video’s about copper plating! I had exactly the same question and figured out how to copperplate the easy way. So please check out that video! I would appreciate a ‘like’ if it helped you, thanks!

Thanks Dave! Good thing that you ask right away when you are interested! 👍🏻 The screwdriver holder was not a custom build, it came with the screwdrivers. But if you think people would be interested in such a build, I can make one! I’m still exploring how this UA-cam stuff works…what video will work and what does not. So please ask questions and let me know what you guy’s would like to see…

Hi Ted, good question! If you cannot sand to a smooth surface, because it’s to pitted for example, I think of sandblasting. If you cannot do it yourself, and cannot find someone to do it for you, maybe I can help. The only thing is, you have to send it to the Netherlands…

A real good question! Thanks for that. Actually I have no clue 😉 But keep in mind that the layer you add to your project is a thin layer. Microns thick. If you use a nickel rod or strips of several millimeters thick, you can go wild for a while… My guess: with the amount of nickel I used, you can easily do a motorcycle fender and some random parts as well. Hope I could help…

Hi queryads1000, I don’t think that will work because the nickel ‘sticks’ to the material using electroplating. The diamond dust is not attrackted to metal in this proces. I would not waist any precious diamond powder (I think it’s expensive) on this one! 😉 I read something about chemical vapor deposition, an electroplating process that will do the trick you need…. Maybe you can dive into that proces?