Відео

Firstly, calipers are meant to be dropped, that's on you. I've had mitotoyo digimatic calipers that have lasted me over 20 years Secondly I was trained that calipers are +- .005 in general If you are looking for accuracy don't use calipers. If you want droppable calipers get some Vernier calipers. No dials to break 😂

Mr. Meandrous, Thanks for the deep dive! I was curious about this endeavor.

I have 5 pairs of that generation coolant proof Mitutoyo (3x 6", an 8", and a 12"). The oldest one is about 7-8 years old now, daily driven, and dropped probably a half dozen times (they're the "beater/loaner" set now). The thumb wheel is still going strong though. So, you truly must've dropped them in the most unlucky way unfortunately. I have a set of the Starrett 120 12" dial calipers, genuine made in USA in a wooden case (not the "global" crap). They were great and my most prized metrology tool until they were finally dropped 😢; They're never the same after that. The 12" have a 2-piece rack which is the Achilles Heel when it comes to alignment. Starrett does still make some great tools, but they're digital stuff has never impressed me. They definitely do some rebranding of Chinese junk and hike up the price as if they're made in America. To me, Mitutoyo has always held the upper hand on quality and frankly value; and I'm talking about Mics and other hand tools, not just calipers. I love the satin chrome Starrett mics, but I've always preferred Mitutoyo micrometers. I really think you just got a bad shake on that set of Calipers. Just to be clear, I take great care of my tools and I have since become extra paranoid about sitting calipers on a shop rag or near the edge of a table/bench. Seeing a $400+ pair of calipers hit the deck will give you nightmare flashbacks like no other 😅. No matter how much care you take, it only takes one little slip up. That stuff happens though and you live and learn. Oh yeah, one other thing about those 8yo Mitutoyos is I've only changed the battery twice on them!!!

Did I imagine him making a longer video about the pencils design? I can’t find anything but I remember seeing video of it when he first came out with it.

I have known at least a dozen mechanical engineers over my life- none of them have owned tools or got their hands dirty. They all sat in climate controlled offices working " in theory" with CAD software ect. My brother in law is one of them- he cannot even change his own oil let alone rebuild an engine. You are a rare breed- usually it is unqualified people like me using tools like this to re-engineer what the CAD guy could't test out through real life variables...

Great video. I was hooked with the intro, very well done! I loved the story you built in there, it was like a TV show.

That’s an awesome build. Seeing how excited he was playing with the truck at the end was really neat.

I wonder how much hands on you get in a master's program. It seems understandable that a bachelor's degree wouldn't be too heavy on hands on learning, as much as it would be nice if it did. In any case I think that our academic system is ripe for disruption anyway.

This is one of my pet peeves as a mechanic; the engineers are too often people who have never turned a wrench in their lives.

Btw, I don't like the new Pentel Twist Erase pencils. I have still the ones I bought in the 90's without the damn gum rubber grip.

You didn't list any complaints about it. Surely it's not perfect if you call it "pretty good"? How is the eraser? How is the eraser stabilized when you pull off the back cap? Btw, which Pentel pencil is that? I like the Twist Erase personally.

Insert is garbage

What a great videos man.

We have approximately 30 sets of Mitutoyo digital calipers and 20 sets of Sylvac digital calipers in our workplace. They're exposed to all sorts of contaminants yet rarely fail. The only failure at last calibration was a set that had been dropped.

All I know is that I live near 2 aerospace engineers and like my hubby and I who are NOT engineers, they are restoring their Victorian home and there is no coherence, logic or sense in the way they plan. In fact the first issue comes from a man. Of planning period. But it’s backwards half the time, then they have to redo things (loss of money and time and gain in frustration). They are the kind of people who will plant a bund of trees in a row and then dance around them to try to out the fence that was meant to go behind it! Brilliant right?

Very helpful advice thank you!

so at the it end it is the core of a bic pencil into a piece of brass? bit disaspointed about that. but sure it remain a good pencil

On behalf of the guys behind the counter, thanks, mate✌🏾

I like how much you love and value your shop, you got a subscriber!

Great video. The non-working stuff looks pretty cool too. Thanks for sharing.

Its 0.586 Theres 23 divisions and each division is 0.025 mm Therefore, 23×0.025 = 0.575 Now the coinciding vernier is 11 multiplying it with the least count of micrometre i.e 0.01 gives 0.11 Add this with the mains scale reading, 0.11+0.575 = 0.586

Id bet money your mitutoyo are fake.

I cant imagine how much work goes into creating a 3D model like that. Nice work!

Awesome video man

Awesome video man

CNC operator here : DON'T buy Mitutoyo Digital calipers new or secondhand. There's lots of fakes out there, and right now it's a really bad time. Some fakes people are charging a price where it's obvious it's fake but other fakes people are charging the full retail price and it's kinda difficult and unclear to tell them apart. . . HOWEVER, I daily and absolutely love their dial calipers. Japanese made Mitutoyo dial calipers are awesome, just as awesome as the American made Starrett's. Plus I haven't seen any fakes of those yet.

Ha ha..A ‘Decimal equivalent’ chart is totally unnecessary if you stopped using antiquated nonsense like 17/64” (or 34/128”). I am not a machinist, but I sometimes build in ‘Thou’…However, metric is so much more convenient and my dial calipers purport to read 1/100 mm (under half of one thou). I can’t test that degree of accuracy…although a dial will be accurately proportioned you need to know the accuracy of the distance covered per revolution…mine says 1mm per needle revolution…IF that is correct then a 1/100 division will indeed be 1/100 mm…it can’t be anything else right. I can only test it with known gauges such as drilling bit shanks, which so far read spot on. My calipers were only 50 Quid (bucks if you like)…so not top notch, but prove more than my requirement.

If you work with calipers daily, digital is great, but they use batteries and if you use them only infrequently, well…you know what happens when batteries leak, plus of course they will be flat when you most need them and you can’t always get those button cells locally….So for the infrequent user I’d recommend dial calipers.

What a disgusting display of police ignorance.

Good info. I originally bought a Makita cordless set many years ago. Batteries finally died. But it was the same time they were switching battery styles. At the time Dewalt was less expensive. So I moved to Dewalt. I've been with Dewalt 20v for over 10 years now. All of my original batteries still work. And yes, being able to buy "tool only" tools is awesome.

I got that festool tablesaw with the whole kit for $2300. I have two other table saws that work fine. For what the festool is capable of, 2300 is dirt cheap.

Thank you for your video. Following your link to the MSC Mitutoyo product, the third thumbnail down on the left side makes it appear that spare parts are available to replace your broken thumb wheel hook. You need part No. 06AEY270. I bought a Mitutoyo 505-637-66 dial caliper in 1977. I paid $65 dollars for it, which was a hunk of change for a poor college student. I used it daily until retiring a few years ago. I believe it's a better product than is available today. Currently, I'm looking to buy a metric version of the same thing, as I prefer dial calipers to digital. Batteries, and all that. But then, I still wear mechanical wrist watches. I don't find much to choose from in the way of metric dial calipers. The Starret metric caliper does 2 mm per revolution and is graduated in 2mm tick marks. I want 1 mm per revolution, and 1mm tick marks. Mitutoyo makes one, but it doesn't seem to be as nicely made as my beautiful 47 year-old one. So I may end up with digital. UGH! Maybe I'm just inept, but I can't find anybody who stocks Brown & Sharpe. Does B&S still exist?

Skills too pay da bills 💪🏽😎

Thank you for sharing honest thoughts. Somehow I came to the same conclusions.

Search up Techtronic Industries, the own/ make Milwaukee, AEG/Rigid and Ryobi. There are a few other power tool companies like this

I'm a die hard Ryobi guy. I do some of everything and I do it alot. The only tools I've broken made by them are the rotary tool because I was cutting wheel studs off of of my car, angrily, with it, and the sawzalls because I really beat the balls off of them. The same happened with my Milwaukee fuel version. My personal consensus, based on genuine experience, including using tools for the wrong application, is that Ryobi is the best. They're like pulling for an underdog and who doesn't wanna have a little bit of character? Fuck the cool guys with their fancy tools. Mine does the same thing and was probably made in the same factory by the same people with slightly different parts.

Very good and necessary video... I live in Brazil so I everything is REALLY expensive... So I cannot play around... I have 2 lines... I use Dewalt for cordless tools, sharing the same batteries... And for more specific wood tools, I buy corded Bosch tools because they have very quality cheaper tools... And that's it... Nice video!

My experience is (for a non-professional) buy a medium brand, but even more important is: decide battery or no battery. For example, battery powered palm sanders are heavy, bulky, awkward to use, tiring your grip after 15 minutes of constant use, requires cycling through least 2 batteries and maybe 3. You physically probably don't want to grip the darn thing through an hour or more of sanding. But a corded model can be run for hours without wearing your grip out. I know; I tried it.

Ridgid’s problem is not reliability, it’s variety

With battery adapters, as long as you invest in a 18v system you can pretty much get any tool with any battery

Another question I would say you should as yourself "How rough and tough are you on your tools?" As for my self I'm very rough an tough on my tools (as I have worked with tools that were built to last an take any kind of abuse thrown at them) I need them to be durable don't care what the brand is I just need a strong durable an long lasting (kindy falls under how long are you planning on using the tools) but this my not be a question you need to ask yourself however it worth asking yourself to make sure you won't need it to do that

I try to buy in the middle of the price range. I am not a professional so don't need the best but I also don't need the worst. I personally am moving away from battery operated tools and going back to corded, mainly because in a few years they won't make the 18 volt any more or the connection is different.

Once your caliper has dropped it immediately becomes wrthless as an arbitrary measuring tool so it must go either to a proper checks/repair/calibration service or in the rubbish bin straight away.

Have you tried loc-lines website?

Great Program!

I have at least 8 different digital calipers. Starrett, Mitutoyo, Tesa, and Mahr. Starrett are the worst, Mitutoyo the best. If you drop them, any of them, they need to go into the trash.

@themeandeousengineer Why did you have to replace your Starrett dial calipers?

Looks like you bought fake mitutoyo,

If you want a super durable and inexpensive caliper good old verniers are very tough.

Minus series gage pins are .0002 under size from marked size unless the pins are chinese junk. Minus series gage pins if a qualty brand will mearsure .0002 undersize from marked . Gage pins are measured with a Master Mic or optical comparator when certified. The caliper material is not flexing at the beams , its the gear mechanism being overstressed . 24:26