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Did you change oil brands or anything before this issue?

@ it’s a company owned truck so we use an oil change mechanic, and they are Valvoline. I have always used the same one. When the light came on the first time I was over in milage and needing an oil change. However, I had a different place change it the same day the alert showed. Now less than 3000 miles later I’m getting the light again today, and added a quart of Valvoline.

I'm curious if that will change after your next oil change if you get it done again by your normal shop. I'm curious if lower grade oils are breaking down faster and not lasting as long causing it to be burnt off and low oil conditions

2024 model year only

Yes I agree. I always wonder if the caps are better or worse to have in the long run

Yes I agree. But some states like a lot of road salt in the winter time so this helps fight the corrosion

Although they do use a lot of aluminum like with the hood, they are still using steel body parts

I do not plan on selling them at this time, but I will be sure to let you know if I do!

I don't know if it's just me, but it doesn't seem like wd40 is as good as it used to be either

I have used them before. The ends can sometimes be too big for the weep holes in the doors and tailgate. But for the frame it could work. I figured that if I can't reach it with a spray can, moisture probably won't get to it either

I think they're having issues getting a lot of things across the border. I think even medical supplies are getting caught up and are unable to ship there iirc

@@adventureandrepeat I had to go back to the Amsoil website or may be their chat site to refresh myself. Apparently its something within the formulation that is not approved in Canada but also California, so neither we or Cali can get it but of course in California it would be easy to buy it elsewhere bring it home to use it.

Most things aren't allowed in California. Even gas powered lawn mowers and yard equipment are banned

@@adventureandrepeat But illegals are just fine ... come on up to our tent cities ! LOL. Speaking of lawn mowers, a nice type of push/self propelled Honda gas driven walk behind mower that Honda had been making for some years, they phased that out all because of California emissions and instead pushing electric lawn mowers. So just because California dictates an idiotic rule, the rest of the USA and Canada is being deprived of a proper model of lawn mower, its completely insane. I am sure the same goes for this Amsoil rust prevention product, something stupid causing a move to quash the sale of it beyond a proclaimed area.

Yea it's kind of backwards how there's so many laws to keep the air clean, but food has so many preservatives in them that are banned in other countries

Thanks!

Thanks!

I don't have an exact measurement, but I know they are not even close to the stops. There's still a few inches of down travel at the tire before it hits the stops. And the control arms are still at neutral angles, no severe high stress angles or excessive ball joint angles requiring a special replacement control arm like a cognito or rough country

Thanks for the support! Yes I agree that would have been the safer option, I'm just so used to electrical projects that I just skip it unless I'm attaching anything with heavy inrush loads

There's a couple ways to do it. Easiest would be just to leave the plow connection where it's at and just notch the plastic cover a bit to allow the second battery cable to stack with the plow cable. You could also mount a battery terminal stud off to the side with a short jumper from the main battery to it. Plow power would be relocated to it as well and second battery connect to it. Basically one stud with 3 wires going to it. Rewiring the plow to run off the second battery could be done, however that's a lot more work and the system is already installed and working as it is. I would personally go with the first 2 options listed

Thanks for the quick reply, would going from the 175 amp fuse on the secondary battery to the 200 amp on the main battery pose any problems? Or would it be best to mount to that 400 amp stud on the secondary battery instead?

There should be no problem with mounting it to the 175 fuse as far as battery balance. And I don't think the pump would blow that fuse when it's direct to the other 200 amp. But if you are not using the 400 amp for anything else that'd be the best option to hook to

No they do not. Only the half ton trucks have start/stop

@ I did not know that and I have a 2025 2500hd Silverado coming in January. Thanks for knowledge I didn’t even think of looking into that when I was doing research and test driving

No problem!

I'm not familiar with that brand. However, that kind of style relay is very commonly used. There's many different styles and ways to set a dedicated second battery up for inverter use. But with smart alternators and depending on load cycles of the inverter a direct wire may not be a good idea. I cover this in my plow prep relay install video. But in short, loads with an unregulated alternator can cause voltage drops and spikes that can harm the chassis systems or cause systems to cut out while in use. A dc to DC charger would be a better way to charge the second battery for inverter use because it's a steady load. A solenoid like that will allow power to flow both ways and cause issues. So if your putting a second battery like in the aux tray up front for starter uses only. Direct wire is fine, no relay needed. If your using it for intermittent load like a plow pump or a winch, the plow prep relay kit needs to be used with direct wire(or solenoid )to regulate the alternator under loads. If your just wanting to put a battery in for inverter use or tool charging only, a dc to DC charger would be the better option to go with

@ that sounds logical, so you could control the dc charger with key on power to not draw down primary battery or does it have supply voltage protection ? Do you have a suggestion on a charger & inverter ? All I’m really looking to do is charge tool batteries & run small loads like a circular saw or drill.

Yes most chargers can be run by keyed power or have supply protection. There are plenty out there to use. I have personally used a lot of victron energy DC to DC chargers. They work great. Settings are adjusted by phone app which the app also gives data and diagnostics. As far as inverter, you have to size it according to the loads. I also have a vid up that talks about inverter size and selection. But I always prefer xantrax or magnum energy for inverters. Simple to use and they work. But for low energy stuff for running battery chargers any harbor freight unit will work. The key is to read the power tool labels for how many watts they use. You have to have an inverter bigger than the combined wattage of the tools you plan on using at the exact same time. I'm just guessing, but a 1500 watt may be enough. But bigger is always better. Or at least until you have an inverter too big for the compartment it needs to fit in As an example, I have a 2000 watt to feed my entire camper with microwave and air conditioner and whatnot. But my truck has a 400 watt inverter in the bed which is all I need to run my battery chargers and a laptop at the same time

So I’ve pretty much decided that the 2 under hood batteries will be for the truck & not for the inverter, wanted your opinion on compatibility of a Xentrax XC 1 or 2000 inverter, Victron Orion 12/12-50A charger & a 200ah battery located in one of the compartments of the service truck body. Had questions on wire size, fuse sizing, can I chassis ground in the service body compartment or do I need a ground wire ? Is there any reason I would need an isolated dc-dc charger ? Any recommendations on the battery ? Appreciate your help & Merry Christmas 🎄🎁

Sorry for the delayed reply. But I would go with the 2000 inverter. Same case size and controls, but more output which makes it more capable to power more things like a house furnace when the power goes out. The victron charger will be good as long as it can accommodate the wire size for how far away it will be mounted from the chassis batteries. I've had to run 2 smaller charges before because the cable size would have been too big for the charger with how far away it was mounted. I believe a 2000 watt inverter calls for a 350 amp fuse iirc. Inverter is going to want 2/0 wire size minimum and be wired to the battery directly. But battery can be tied to frame thru the compartment. I don't think you need an isolated battery charger. Everything is all in ground together. That would mostly be for boat applications where there aren't many grounds. As far as battery options you can go with whatever you want. Just be sure to setup the charger and inverter for battery types. Lead acid is cheap, but water needs to be maintained and compartment needs to be vented. Agm is better and handles loads better but costs more. Compartment should still be vented. Lithium has the highest cost, but the charge will last longer than lead or agm. Compartment does not need to be vented with lithium. But it specifically requires the charger and inverter to be set to lithium settings to prevent fires. If you are looking for a brand specific recommendation I always like die hard batteries for agm and battle born for lithium. Hope this helps!

I think that's awesome of them!

Each generation does appear to be getting better than the last. New engines are always putting out more power for the same displacement!

Yes it does!

We value your feedback. What details would you like us to elaborate on?

I always do it every time I service the truck. Which approx 5k miles for me as well. Tires aren't cheap so I want them to last!

That's very interesting! I may take another look at doing that

I did not tap into anything inside. Mine is direct wire to battery. I like to have control over the plow without the truck on for putting it on, testing, and troubleshooting. But if I did it'd be from the Upfitter switches

Spare tire does not have a sensor in it

TPMS to my knowledge is just a signal that gets sent out. That's all they do, and if there's something to receive the signal it will. They are just programmed to transmit at certain frequency. So for the truck to distinguish location there would have to be 4 receivers in proximity to each tire location. Or a single vectoring receiver centrally located. Which I really doubt is the case. Sometimes vehicles only like to work with their own tpms brands. 2014 Ford f150s are a specific year that needs motor craft only ones. So the only way to know is to try and see what will work with the truck

@@adventureandrepeat Your right in that I won't know for sure until they would be on the vehicle and I don't know if they did anything with them to pre program them for anything, they may be dead until I get them to activate them for all I know. I just haven't had anything to do with tpms systems myself and my comments here were based off of what I read after I saw your video and guys talking about how GM has changed the truck and the sensors that GM supplies changed up part number as well. All I can do is cross that bridge when I come to it, I told them the specific truck year the tires will be going on and they used a grease marker on the backside of the rims to mark there position which I found interesting, they never explained why they marked them but of course I will install them in those exact locations off the bat. All he said was to come back when I had the tires on the truck to set them. First I need a truck to put them on LOL ... as I roll my eyes.

The truck will be there soon! Have they given you a vin number or build date yet?

@@adventureandrepeat I may be wrong on this but I thought no vin is created until its actually built ?, and as to what they call the TPW ( Target Production Week ) , yes one was stated to me over a month ago which means if that build week comes to pass, it will be well over two months from the time they created a build week to actually building it. I will never know but I may have been bullshitted at the dealership as to them claiming it should get into my hands ( not just built ) before the end of the year. Obviously that not happening and there is no way of knowing how long it would take from build date to showing up at the dealer either. My gut tells me that he told me what he figured I wanted to hear so that I would order a truck through them. I suspect you can tell through the tone of my wording that I have little trust in general dealership honesty, and I do not look forward to dealing with what will undoubtedly be the sales teams antics when the vehicle does finally show up. And I doubt it would matter if it was some other dealership, there is a general theme to most dealerships or at least the sales department.

Yea all dealerships work by the same handbook, because generally it works and most don't catch on. Mine was a lot truck that had most of what I wanted and I didn't want to wait 3-6 months for a truck to be built. However one specific part of line item can halt the assembly on any truck. I was told a zr2 was 12 months or more out if I wanted to order one at the time I was calling around

Yes it is!

I've actually heard from a few people that the switches were installed in the dash, but the harness was just left in the console or glove box but never installed. A good way to verify would be to try to use your switches. If the yellow indicator doesn't come on with any of the buttons I believe your harness would not have been installed as well

I agree!

Any kind of suspension adjustment it is recommended to get an alignment. Even like ball joint replacement it is recommended. But I do also have a video up on my channel on how to do an alignment yourself at home!

I have not personally done it. But having both pumps and how similar they are. Design and manufacturing would lead me to believe it would be possible. Although, if you were just to go out and buy a new valve block and all the pieces, you would be further ahead with just buying a full assembly off eBay and doing a refresh on the new unit

I'm glad you got it towed in. First one I've heard of actually having a dead battery situation

Yes the flexible boot on the factory tube is for frame and engine flex. That's the one thing I don't like about the replacements is they take that out, but the ribbed section does also create turbulence and reduce air flow compared to a more rigid straight tube.

I've always thought if I had time to try it that some hardware store PVC pipe and rubber plumbing unions would be able to work

Thanks for the support! We're not done with upgrades yet either!

That is an interesting idea! Closing it up would for sure make it quieter. Even using some sound deadening material around the housing would quiet it down more and also insulate the air to get a colder charge.

Thanks for the support! I had started years back with a cable style and enjoyed the simplicity. When I changed trucks cable routing was no longer an option. I really like these pumps and how simple they are. I'm going to run it for as long as I can keep finding parts!

It's never a bother! I always enjoy trying to work thru and solve problems!

I know our Tahoe tube is very close to the same dimensions as the 2500hd. So it'd be close, but I haven't had the time to measure to see how far it'd be off.

Currently there is no option for a modular intake tube for the new 2500hd. I keep looking periodically to see if there was one released. There still has not. Only full intake kits. Which I don't believe are necessary as well. The tube does help improve fuel economy alone without the whole air box replacement. Airaid was the brand of tube I used for our Tahoe.

Thank you, and thanks for the support!

That's really good info, thanks for sharing!

Yea I use trans fluid. Manual calls for Dex/Merc or equivalent. It does get stiff on negative temps when floating the ram down. I've cut it with seafoam treatment before which I'm guessing is just kerosene as well. I have a bunch of amsoil around the garage so a fluid change is essentially free for me. I've known guys in the construction industry to run their hydraulic units on their trucks all night just to keep the fluid moving and not get too cold on bad cold snaps

@@adventureandrepeat Speaking of Amsoil, I know way back in the 1980's I had installed a power steering system on a Toyota 4x4 pickup that never came from the factory with power steering and I ended up changing from regular dexron to Amsoil equivalent and it certainly made a difference. J 13 would not be suitable for everything but I would expect for a plow application it would work just fine, I doubt there is hardly a thinner hydraulic type oil out there. I cringe at the idea of adding anything to oil to thin it but unfortunately sometimes there isn't an alternative. Like I joked to my neighbour the other day, that my dad had figured out the secret to dealing with winter ... he retired to Arizona, never to have had experienced a cold northern Canadian winter ever again in his life, unfortunately I can't begin to afford such a luxury !

There's plenty of desert out there with free parking!

@@adventureandrepeat My brother was down there last winter for a bit in Yuma and he drove right through one of those area's you would be referring to, Quartzsite. As he said, there is not much of anything out there and mostly no trees for shade, sand blowing, and too many questionable people out in an area like that in later years. But even to do something like that means driving down there a long ways in winter weather through the salt with a trailer or RV of some sort ruining it in the process.My dad happened to be a US citizen, and myself and my brother worked for years on this farm handing over funds for him as he lived that life style. It was a different time indeed, now everything is all but unaffordable ( and neither am I a US citizen ) I can well imagine the mess and the sewer dumped around there as per Quartzsite, garbage etc. I have a feeling things are going to change with that whole theme going forward.

Most in this area like to retire to Florida. Plenty of sun and sand and nice beaches. The occasional hurricane.

Is there any on the oil filter itself? Is it only on the back of the oil pan and the front of trans pan?

@ no oil near the filter just the rear oil pan and a little bit near transmission area

@ maybe factory break in grease or something it my first new vehicle 🤣

I don't think I'd be worried about it just yet. However if it still is showing it after the second oil change or you are noticing oil loss I would have it checked out. Because that would be pan or rear main seal. Or even torque converter shaft seal. Which can be a big deal.

@ 10-4 sirrrr

Yes, in theory that should work. I say "theory" because I have not personally verified that myself. I had thought about going that route myself, but with only a single 30 amp output on the second fuse block and a small cable to combine them, I opted for the diesel block because I run winches and plows so the 400 amp fuse suited me better along with I can run a bigger combining wire to help support the draw of the large loads put on the second battery

Very interesting! I hope they are able to figure it out. Please let us know what they found so we can pass that information along!

@@adventureandrepeat They just tested the battery and the electronic system and said everything was okay. If it happens again, I will make a video.

Thanks!

Don't worry. It was changed a few days after this vid was made

That's unfortunate! Are you planning on taking it in for warranty?

No I don't have the number for the engine harness. I had only purchased the crossover harnesses that was supposed to tie in the batteries. But a factory gas setup has a second battery just dedicated to the trailer plug harness and that's it. That's why I tied them in direct, to be a proper dual battery setup. I plow snow and run winches, so the factory gas setup would be almost useless for me. Unless you are looking for the crossover harness number, I'd have to dig that out

Yes they can have a few issues with how complicated they can be

Yes. Depending on where the switches go on the dash the tail is different lengths. I was able to track down the part number for the longer tail and added it in the description after the vid was made. My truck didn't come with them, so even with a vin number it was very much a struggle to get even the correct dash panel from GM and a dealership with multiple trips. Thanks for the support!