Відео

1:08 daaaaamn accurate

Man, EXACTLY what I plan to do, I have several aluminum rails from 20x20 to 100x100, You did what I need to do, thanks man , awesome

Could this system be installed in the basement right below the sink cabinet?

Have you found that the bolts connecting the frame pieces have loosened at all over time? Thanks.

Olá. Achei muito interessante. Onde posso encontrar o fornecedor desses componentes?

Why would you not just sell the kits??

What kind of puller is that? Where’d you get it??

1:18 yes is wastes water. you literally drilled and installed the red waste water pipe in this video. what do you mean? 🤔

i still don't understand how you drill pocket holes on a miter

Why did you go with the G2600 over the G3600?

Just bought your plans and really appreciate this design and that ypu shared it. Looks like a great fence and I will be ordering the parts from your included link. Thanks again!

Excellent project I think I will take your idea but to make the measurements of the table fence exact, I will add INCRA LS 32" Range Positioner ONLY, I would like to know if you have plans for this saw base to buy them

can these gantry blocks work on other profile that is not 'vslot' ?

Where did you order 8020 parts from? I might be able to make that plate you added but I'm not sure how accurate I can cut and drill.

do you think is it doable to use this hardware for a sliding table attachment?

Why the vertical section?

1:49 Would using a 1530 front rail and a 6533(ish) bearing on it prevent the need for a rear rail, while also removing the need for a rear extrusion rail? Couldnt you just add a piece of uhmw plate to the underside of the fence to keep it supported? (Or use a piece of angle iron on rear with uhmw slider on it? Better yet, use 20 series v slot wheels (with the groove in them) and have them mounted directly under fence so the can ride the edge of the bedframe angle iron rail?

I'm curious as to whether you need a rear bracket at all? If you used a 1530 as a front rail laid flat, you could use a linear bearing (6533 or a 6534)hat wraps the 1530 and makes 4 slots of contact on 3 sides of the extrusion. Doing this, and giving your fence extrusion a UHMW support towards the rear, the saw could remain strong, and straight while only needing a single rail? I'm curious as to whether it would work?

What section of aluminum did you use for the rails

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Looks nice

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Much better

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🤠🤠

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Sweet

Does the extrusion not flex/bow when being used? I have a 2"x4" (80/20's 2040, not the 2040 v-slot) and I have issues with deflection... and that's dual enforced on a router table.

Do you happen to know if this would work with a Craftsman 310 model?

Can you provide the link to the right angle bracket??

Why the annoying music. Can’t hear you.

The accuracy test is not trustworthy. These aluminium profiles are extruded so they have a +-0.1/0.2 mm tollerance. I worked with them.

Why not put an aluminum rail across the back of the table, and have the fence ride in the groove?

awesome! Thank you for showing your upgrades! Will be doing this for the T3650 I got for hauling it off.

I don't think you will need it any more accurate for woodwork. After ripping timber it would be brought to final dimensions by planing. The extrusion will have some level of inaccuracies anyway. Accurate cross cuts are made using a dialed in criss cut sled.

That is brilliant.

I have been watching a few of your videos and find your concept interesting and enlightening. I am in the process of designing my own fence because I can't find any reasonably priced aftermarket quality systems in South Africa. If I may point out, to stiffen your system you can reduce the length of your mounting brackets and use the saved material to add perhaps some more of them. You can mount the horizontal extruded part directly above your gantry plate to be around 1mm below your table saw surface and bring it closer to the cast iron top of the table saw. I can also send you a DXF file for laser cutting a single design gantry plate if you are interested. (I am sure you can find a laser cutter in your area.)

This would work so well for me. I will study your intel. This is a great design. I will be staying in touch….

Your Fence is most Excellent. Could I hire you to build one? It’s a long story but I have trouble with my hands. I have a Shopsmith that I want to upgrade. I am in a wheelchair and have huge energy problems. Maybe we can work something out… Thank You.

Could not tolerate the audio. Thumbs down.

Do you have to manually drill the circular holes for the joining hardware on the end of the extrusions?

i know its a non issue but could you also run a rear set of sliders to reduce deflection even more?

unnecessarily too much flexing lengths between mount and rail, rail and fence. Minimising moment arm will minimise the flex and tolerance.

My Craftsman 113 could use a little love.

what's with the extra holes????

Does any one know if these tracks can handle a huge load? I am designing a set of 6’ tool boxes for the back of my truck that slide out of the truck about 5.5’. I found these tracks and thought they could be a great addition to my build. I can’t find a load capacity list any where.

I see people doing this all the time and it’s a huge No No. Don’t wear gloves when using power tools like a table saw. That’s an excellent way to lose a finger or hand.

Awesome fence system ! I realise this is now a year old, however, what’s the rough cost of all the 80/20 components? Nice work, cheers Tom

bloody music

solid mate very nice ..inspiring others cheers