Відео

Pruse sucks period

Hi Great video, I am about to pick either one of these cameras, they are the same price now. Do you have any regrets losing the megapixels and only 1 SD Card? I worry that I will lose too much feature by picking the a7C, thanks!

Beautiful build, I'm about to take on the same project is there any way I can get you to send the files to your battery hold downs on the side? If not it's alright I can design some but it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I want to take photos of dogs and dogsports ( for instagram mainly) as well as vlog, would you aim for A7C in my case?

Was the case large enough for your phone? I see it in the video and know you did but I’ve bought 2 and don’t see how it fits. Any help? Thanks

Lol @ “I’ll be surprised if anyone even watches this”… welp I needed to hear this bro.. good vid

Yeah, I bought a new Prusa and had it factory assembled. This unit has had nothing but problems. Day after day. I have spent more time on chat trying to fix it than printing something.

What sucks is your audio

This is a known issue also addressed by the 3D printing nerd. If you have no idea about this: The heatbreak on MK3 printers and up is a custom E3D heatbreak designed for Prusa because the MMU unit needs one of the heatbreak’s holes to be bigger to work well. The downside? It causes jams especially with filaments having too many additives in them. So if you are not going to buy the overpriced piece of junk called MMU to print different colors - do yourself a favor and buy the standard e3d heatbreak because it’s much more reliable than the Prusa e3d one. You will have less issues and increase filament compatibility. This is also discussed in Prusa forums. Whoever says “I never had an issue” - good for you. It doesn’t mean that everyone else who had problems because of this is imagining things.

And now (January 2023) it is silent forever. Houston Chronicle

Just seeing that you use an adjustable wrench makes me know it’s you not the printer🤪

Can you still use wireless charging with it? I know you can’t use MagSafe, but can you use other wireless chargers?

Great video

Good points. Regarding the gloves and buttons; its best not to fiddle with your phone when riding. Its also illegal to do so, under distracted driving laws.

Prusa is a bad product, the reason it gets rave reviews is that it comes with a complete bundle of products and requires very little thought or effort and will give you that nice looking print...here and there. But try to run one in any serious environment, and you'll pull your hair out. Its not just the heat brake, its the bed and much more. After 3 mechanical engineers, about $500 in upgrades, the Prusa still couldnt manage to give us 5/5 good prints. Its at around 3/5. Either the parts come off bed, part warps, uneven step size, etc. Its always something, which isnt surprusing given its made from 3D printed parts....which I dont understand how that would ever be a good idea besides showing off you can, in fact, make some 3D printer parts from an FDM printer...except of course the parts that actually matter, like the PCB, bearings, motors, etc. This is why Ive realized you either get an Ender and pay next to nothing, and tinker with it, or you simply spend around $1000 and get a legit, closed bed FDM printer with actual temperature control.

Unfortunately this is illegal. It is a crime in Texas to fly above railyards. Be careful.

Any regrets so far?

First of all, what the heck do you think their software is paid with.. never seen a good slicer from those cheap brands that works like Prusas. Secondly they explained why the heatbrake is like this, and that is not optimal for MMU but for the majority with none.

Did you put the anti-vibration part on the mount ? If you didn’t, it will break the iPhone camera stabilisator 😖

Never had issues that could not be resolved by reading the manual. The manual is very clear and if followed properly, you will not have issues you can not resolve. Never have I dismantled my Prusa like this.

What if you could get both for $1500 ?, which would you choose

One of the best mobile Mounts in the market.

Not sure why you are getting downvoted, i got a prusa recently and my god it's just awful. keeps saying y axis length error every time i try the selftest. Ive tried tightening the belt, loosening the grip on the bearing u bolts, lubing the rods, autohoming, still same error. tried printing anyways. it has issues sticking to the bed, even with a brim. can never get through a print before the piece gets loose from the bed. detects crashes, print fails. very loud grinding sounds from one of the axis. the 3d printed parts the printer is made out of are just terrible, you have to sand them forever just to get anything to fit. instructions are also terrible, too many combined steps and the entire wiring picture for the motherboard is way too small. the cable management is terrible too, there are way too many wires stuffed into a small box, and the worst part is they expect just a tiny piece of filament to keep the entire main branch of cables from hitting the bed, and i was never able to get this piece of filament to stay stuck in the hole its supposed to go in, even after sharpening it.

I've been using a borrowed Sony A7R III and looking at picking up a A7C in a week or 2. how has the video quality compared between the 2 in your use?

You are an anomaly

You can buy replacement heartbreaks... Although my Prusa runs excellent

I just followed you! Im also into RCs, drones, and just ordered a Prusa. How'd your fix work out?

most problems are create by teflon who is not on the bottom, bin there don that , two prusa printers here, never problems, never...

If you have ram Mount motorcycle Mount check the 1 inch ball Mount ua-cam.com/video/uGCLtiQcmF8/v-deo.html

i know I'm late to the party here. But i had a problem recently with the extruder motors clicking. I guessed it was a jam and i did many cold pulls and disassembly and reassembly. The one thing i didn't take apart was the heartbreak from the cooler. I eventually got a new hotend assembly from prusa. After replacing it, it printed just fine, So i went back at the old one because i was baffled. This time, i decided to remove the heatbreak and reapplied the thermal paste. I used thermal grizzly hydronaut as thats what i had available. Old hotend fixed! Read up on it, im not an expert but i think it had something to do with the filament melting too early inside the heatbreak and causing the solid filament to push into the melted filament, hit a "wall" click, then melt, extrude a tiny bit, then repeat. Not sure if that was actually the case but changing the thermal paste in my opinion was the solution to my problem

What’s did this company do? I’m trying to find out their history because I can remember the sign that used to be located at S Rice and Westpark forever!

But let's be fair. If you remove the obnoxiously big viewfinder cup and place the f2.8 lens on the A7RIII, then the difference in size is not as great...plus you keep the more comfortable grip, substantially better viewfinder, and the 42mp.

It does suck. Everything I have ever bought from Prusa has been bad. The prusa mini was a joke. MMu2 = Trash . Mk3s+ ( factory built ) The bed thermistor was routed wrong and snaped in 1st month of printing. The grub screw that went inside the heat block for the heater cartridge was seized. So I had to buy a new heater cart + heater block 2nd month of printing. All because the DD jammed during a filament swap. I refuse to support Prusa after this. You are going to have fan boys down in the comments praising how god tier prusa is. But their machine might be god status and never had issues. Again with me everything i have ordered from Prusa has been nothing but headaches. My print farm now is all Enders I don't mind tinkering and tweaking those machines. The 4x cost of a Prusa thats held together with zip ties for $1000 just was a waste of time for me. If you think about it prusa is just an out dated 8bit machine with dd + e3d v6 hotend and abl sensor. That all a prusa is. Its not worth the price what so every. - rant over

dont get sucked in to the 'Apple' of 3d printers lol

Bro, the whole thing sucks. I asked their support about the crazy badsaw noise and they said new bearings. This thing was less that 2 months old and had done about 20 hours of printing. I have an ANET A8 (heavily modified and still working fine since 2016). That Anet printed a AtomX (still working fine since 2017) ---- all this is about 5 years old btw.. I bought a Tevo Tornado - which, tbf, is a bag of dangerous shit but I heavily modified and is now spot on with a Pi safe guard etc (2018). I bought the Prusa in the pandemic. It cost me £700 as a KIT FFS!. I have maybe printed 5 or 6 things with it (mostly covid screens) and I have to say, it is the biggest bag of shit I have ever used 3d printer wise. I want my money back. Their online help is a joke. They have my money. Be careful. Feel free to contact me for more evidence, details, video, etc. Cheers

Why the printer sucks: complains about the hotends heatbreak

A7RIII have 3.6 M dots while A7C has only 2.6 M dots. Actually a huge difference.

Thanks. You just talked me out of buying a Prusa.

There's no sound because the owner is crying

The sickness of the Samyang is sick I bet it beats the RX100m5 viewfinder, which I was always really happy with. Wrong Pocket :)

Which one is best A7 c or A7iii?? For buying

That’s not a sigma 35 1.4 lens…. Rokinon/samyang

I didn’t know how it’s possible to fuck up so bad with one of the most idiot proof printers ever made. I guess it’s not retard proof. The stench of user error is stronger than a pile of dog shit right here.

Nice, easy-going review!

Would never sell my OG a7r3 for a a7c. Especially for flash work, the limited shutter speed with flash is the main factor and the lack of two cards which isn't a big deal until it is. I do however use my a7s3 for fun action shoots as there literally is no rolling shutter for video and images.

Been looking for the answer for forever and it seems like you might know. Could I mount an s90 front fender to the s65? Or any leads on the s65 fender?

Right now I am debating which one to choose a7c a7r3. For photo purposes and some video. I definetly dont need 4k 60fps. The prices for this two cameras are similar + - 70$. A7c uses evf from 6300 and screen from a7m3. Whether a7r3 uses better evf and screen. Is ISO that bad in a7r3?

For filmmaking the A7C is better because of the new improved color science, focusing features, Flip out lcd, portable size, excellent low-light capability, and ease of mounting on a gimbal. The Riii on the other hand is still a great camera with a better grip, better photography capability, better EVF, custom buttons, joystick, and better image stabilization. So it really depends upon what the buyer wants.

MP are a marketing gimmick and it really doesn’t make much of a difference unless you’re shooting for advertising companies. Most publishers will downsize images to fit proof and the other most common usage is for social and online. A7r files are huge! This slows down the workflow. A7C looks great! You won’t draw attention from people which is a plus.

I think this guy does not know what he is doing. I also wonder if he purchased the kit or the pre-built version. I will say some people have had issues. I think Joel even mentioned this in one video and even says he had a hard time with a specific filament he was trying to use. The thing is, that heatbreak is specifically designed to work with the multi material upgrade. It's even stated by prusa and Joel even says this. But if you are not going to use the modified heatbreak, you can just swap it for the standard e3d heatbreak.