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Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear it worked out for you!

This took about 3-4 hours total

Thank you for the feedback, glad it was helpful. Good luck with the gear swap!

Thanks !

Bushings were replaced on the truck a couple thousand miles ago. Didn't need replacement

Yupp, you sure can

Thanks for the feedback!

Thank you for the feedback! Overall, this looks like a good plan. I believe the majority of the crossover steering kits I've seen require an aftermarket sway bar. If you go with ORDs crossover steering, you have to replace your stock swaybar for sure. Their aftermarket swaybar includes the disconnect kit with it, which is probably the best option. The custom leaf springs / leveling kit are pretty much one in the same. But, should greatly improve ride quality. If you're looking for the greatest improvement, ORD does make a front coilover conversion kit. But it's very expensive $$ and requires quite a bit of modification to work. Bilstein shocks are a great option. Hope this helps.

@@midatlanticcustoms I searched the coilover conversion but as you said they are too expensive and it requires a lot of modification. Thank you for your time.

Drilled through the frame. Grade 8 bolt, nut, flat washer and lock washer. You could orient the bolt either way. I believe I have threads pointing towards the inside of the frame rail. Hope this helps.

@@midatlanticcustoms thanks for the reply. Going to give this a shot on my 82 toyota pickup

Agreed, it's cheap junk. Gets brittle and falls apart over time. A pain to work with. I'm planning to re-do my engine bay at some point and update all of it.

Thanks! I really like it, it took a huge amount of the slop out compared to the old steering gear on the truck.

You're welcome!

I've debated going crossover, but I'm only running 2.5" of lift. Seems the benefits are limited for low lift trucks. The combination of all new suspension components, this steering gear and ORDs steering brace has drastically improved the steering on this truck. But, I'm always looking for additional ways to improve the trucks on road handling. Going through everything did take the majority of the slop out of the steering, but I do believe GMs original steering setup was a poor design that's tough to get perfect

@@midatlanticcustoms Yeah, I agree with tough to perfect. From everything I gather, even crossover will introduce different problems. In my head, the only solution would be a fully electric steering rack on diff, steer by wire. Probably years away from that being a thing since steer by wire is just starting on OEMs now. I think for my 4", I will try crossover steering. Many complain about bump steer with crossover, which is why I think you went the correct route for your lift. Some crossover guys add a track bar like a stock super duty. This limits travel and adds ride stiffness, but my springs are soft so hopefully not too much. The joys of trying to make old things drive like newer things.

The box itself won't increase turn radius, your steering geometry will not change.

@@midatlanticcustoms thank you for your response!

Thanks!!

This car is still going through restoration, so can't speak specifically to it. But, we have installed similar wilwood products on other A-body cars without issue.

Yupp, it should. Triggering ground to the purple wires on any amp module we've encountered has worked

Good note!

Thanks for the sub! 33" tires on a 2.5" lift.

This is definitely the front set. Wilwood produces these so you can mount them on either side of the spindle, depending on your set-up. We just mounted them on the fwd side vs the rear.

@@midatlanticcustoms thanks for the quick response! I'm helping a friend, just got the instructions, had him send me links to what he ordered so i can sort rear from front. noticed the front has smaller pads but four pistons but the rear has unusually larger pads with only 2 pistons.

Yeah, I would double check part #s. Wilwood makes lots of different variations of these, and it's easy to mix them up!

The Wilwood Part # for the kit is: 140-10996-DR

Glad it was helpful!

Yupp! Fill-to-spill

Yupp, pretty straightforward install. I thought the same thing about the studs, but they are okay once you torque down lug nuts. I plan to rebuild the rear end anyway and will be installing new axle shafts. Probably will get slightly longer studs on those.

Thanks!!

The Power Step Xtreme kit for a 2019 F150. realtruck.com/p/amp-research-powerstep-xtreme-running-boards/amp-78151-01a/

Summit has them: www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-ck1000-1/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle/year/1967

Thanks! And you're 100% correct. Not a Dana 44, good catch

What's the break in period for new gears?

@@MrRomance86 the first 100 miles you want to heat cycle the gears several times. Generally, you want to vary vehicle speed, but keep it under 60 mph (no highway driving). After 15-20 minutes of driving, shut vehicle off and let gears cool. Do this 2-3x. You typically want to limit towing, racing and hard pulls before 500 miles. Once you hit 500 miles on the gears: remove cover, drain fluid, inspect gears and refill with fresh fluid. From here, you can resume normal driving. Hope this helps.

Pretty much 79-91 not 73-87. Dana 44 was up until 78 from my understanding and from 79-91 was the gm 8.5 corporate 10 bolt. Based off the Dana 44 kinda similar axle small differences. Also in 89-91 they went from 28spline to 30spline axles like what Dana 44 had.

@@midatlanticcustoms thank you very much for the information

Thanks for the feedback! Good luck on the blazer, feel free to reach out with questions

help me please

Hey, not sure I'm following. Is your dome light back feeding through the step ground signal? There are two prongs on your door switch, you might need to move the ground for the step to the other prong.

hi brother how are you? thank you for interesting I want to know the brown wire that you connected to the purple wire, where does it begin and end?

@@blackbox_1 the brown wire runs to the ignition switch and gives you a warning on your dash if you leave your key in the ignition with the door open

Yes, you could definitely hide the motor / tuck the running boards higher if it wasn't for the saddle tanks. I considered doing the rear blazer tank for that purpose, but we had already completed an LS swap on this and reconfigured everything to support dual saddle tanks. Still really happy with how it worked out.

@@midatlanticcustoms yes it looks excellent, you did one hell of a job. My 84 had a 6” lift with 35’s , and those steps would have been so helpful. You mentioned engine. My biggest regret was not swapping the 305 out for an LS6 454. My 84 had a factory 4 speed standard , and 3.73 ratio in the diffs . I think a big block would have been perfect for fighting those tall gears

Thanks for the feedback. I know exactly what you are referring to. Not completely sure what Borgeson's design consideration was for this, but I did not want to add any shims/washers. I felt like that could potentially alter the load impact area against the frame (more concentrated loads at a smaller surface area). Pretty much assuming Borgeson's design engineers did this for a reason. Just my thoughts. I have put quite a few miles on the truck with this upgrade without issue. Hope it works for you!

@@midatlanticcustoms Thank you for the response. I some what assumed the same but the fit wasn't perfect and I wondered if it was necessary. Bolting it up this evening and moving on...Thanks again!

Thanks for the feedback! Check out my other video where I detail the seats. They are out of a 2010 super duty.

Direct from wilwood's manual: "The brackets in this kit may be mounted on either the front or rear side of the spindle."

Yes, and you'll probably have more room to mount since you won't have the saddle tanks interfering. Just have to find a good location to mount to the frame.

Yes we did run a shim, but it didn't change the brake bad mounting

A little play shouldn't be an issue, as long as it isn't excessive

@midatlanticcustoms ok thanks I was a little worried

@@midatlanticcustoms great video very detailed that helps alot

Interesting 🤔 did you buy a set for a bronco and make them work? Or do they make them specific for the blazer?

There are two gears, one of for a C10 the other is a k10, make sure you ordered the correct part #. Also, it's odd the steering wheel is off. Did you center the gear before installing? Was your steering wheel locked? I haven't seen a bad borgeson box, but it's not impossible. I'd reach out to them and see if they have any input

Same studs

Don't have it handy, but hopefully you got it figured out

Yup I got it thanks

Thanks! Nope, did not have to cut the spindles

Glad it helped!

Good point, I should have noted this in the video. Thanks for bringing it up, definitely an important part of the wiring!

Omnix-Ada 18016.05 for the early 90s wranglers

Glad you enjoyed it!

Yupp, I used the control module. No need for the obdii connector. Two purple wires from the control module can be tied to the door switches to provide grounds for the step function. Planning to do a quick video on the wiring, just need to find the time!

@@midatlanticcustoms Okay I gotcha. Great, look forward to it.

@@midatlanticcustoms are the steps functional without the module? Can they be wired directly?

@@trevorballard9495no, you need some sort of control module. The steps operate for a certain length of time each time the door is opened or closed. You can order the standalone control module direct from AMP. Wiring is pretty straightforward

@@trevorballard9495 hopefully you found the wiring video!