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What If I want to hookup a power inverter,?

So this is only to charge your phone?

Mine lasted just a little over a year

mine was just bought and it doesn’t work at all

I would advise measuring the voltages before hooking up. If one were much lower it would not have been pretty.

Thank you, an excellent "simple" explanation. Exactly what I was looking for.

Love to hear another update on this

And also those wires in that Chinese inverter are very thin

Major problem is your Inverter has very bad efficiency

Gracias por el vídeo acabo de instalar un kit solar con este controlador, ya que en mi país estamos con cortez de hasta 14 horas. Pues es buen equipo para respaldo del hogar

The setup at 1:53 the wire gauge looks way too small for a 1000 watt inverter. From the looks of it appears to be number 10 or 12 wire. If you ever draw close to the max load that wire will smoke. That size wire looks like it would only be able to handle 500-600 watts max.

Many "sensitive" electronic devices such as TVs, computers, and inket printers (not laser) convert the incoming power into a lower voltage DC so they do not care about the sine wave. Infact, many commercially made UPS devices for computers to provide backup power are only modified-sine wave as they are cheaper. Modified Sine Wave inverters will only be an issue with larger appliances and devices that have motors such as refrigerators, air conditioners, power tools, or anything else that runs directly off of AC power that do not have a power supply that converts to DC.

This is great and the extra careful measures is always the best route. On the other hand, I have 2 high end desktop gaming PCs on a modified sine wave inverter running perfectly for years. I also have an old mac and that one works but it makes a barely audible buzzing sound.

Ya I just got one also....blew the fuse in my multimeter! Also didn't get charge converter.. oops.

I have this same controller. Is there a way to to change it to 12 volts it’s a little confusing. Ty

GOOD VIDEO! WE USE THE SAME SYSTEM AND PRODUCT IT WORKS LOL!

open ground !!! Dangerous!!!! all vevor have it!!!

Were these batteries the same age?

Hello shoestring, that solar connection kit is n/an anymore and the link is dead. I believe the new kit doesn’t include the connection wire that allow you to charge the battery and use it at the same time. The one with the little round end. I found one on amazon and wanted to verify it was compatible.

My EverStart 400 watt converter was in my bag I noticed the cigarette lighter plug in came apart with the fuse a spring and a little silver thing looks like a small bullet which way does this go back in

The manualmcontrdcits him. It does not blink when charging. It is full green and you have to watch the gauge ro know when it is charged.

Will it work with the Jackery 500?

Thanks for sharing this nice video!

Ahhh, yes I do need a bricks of c4 to charge my phone and being hurt down by the tsa

should be just 2 bars at 12.9v or at around 40-50% battery charge.

Might want to practice using negative input first.

Beware of China. I bought the 100A version and hooked it to my 50A system and the blue plastic casing melted down within minutes. I was using a 5000w inverter that I bought at the same time and it tripped at 500w when the refrigerator attached to it came on. What I learned was that China lies about everything. They don't make a version of this charge controller that is actually rated for over 30A - they just label it as 50A, 60A, 80A, or 100A. . The inverter was the same thing - only capable of handling 500w but labeled as 5000w. This is how China does business. They don't care about being honest - they just want to make the sale and they will say anything they need to so you will buy. This charge controller would probably work fine if you keep the load under 30A it might work just fine. At this price you can afford to buy multiples and split the incoming charging amps from your solar panels. Just expect deception as the rule when buying from China.

I bought mine 4-5 months ago and it works fine. Use it to charge and jump start my battery several time without probkem.

You’ve got the lock washer on the wrong side. Lock washer always goes below the nut 🙄

I left mine 12 volt battery charging over night it still on red no blink on standard 10 amps

My BMS stopped working after the 2nd day of use. I get a 0- - - - A zero and dashes going across the screen as if its charging its self or something. I thought I may have somehow turned it off but I cannot get the BMS to display anything but 0 - - - - . The panels are great though. I was getting 10A out in full morning sun in November.

Came back to note that mine like this has now semi-failed. It's dropped from putting out um, I think it was 118V on it's display to 98-102 V . Probably a failing capacitor. Out of warranty in my case. Might try to repair it. Between this and the Thor MSW (supposed to be a good brand) one and then an autozone that failed years back, I could have bought an outback. What's the saying, "buy quality and cry once"

Interesting you look at the spec panel…. And this thing is very inefficient. If it draws 4amps at even 100v that’s at least 400 watts…. Yet output is only 292 watts. A lost of as much as 108 watts! Ouch!

My only gripe is you can’t adjust the actual charge amperage

he statement regarding flooded lead-acid batteries in off-grid solar systems contains several misleading elements. Let's break down the factual inaccuracies and clarify why this view might be harmful, especially when considering current technology and the evolving landscape of energy storage. Misleading Claims and Clarifications Current Draw and Performance: Flooded Lead-Acid Batteries: These batteries can indeed provide high current, but their efficiency diminishes as the current draw increases. Flooded batteries have higher internal resistance, which leads to voltage drop under heavy load, reducing their effectiveness. AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) Batteries: AGM batteries can handle higher current loads better than flooded cells. They have lower internal resistance and can deliver higher discharge rates without significant voltage drop. This means that in scenarios where high current is required, such as during heavy solar output or for powering high-demand appliances, AGMs outperform flooded batteries. Cost Considerations: Initial Costs: While flooded lead-acid batteries are often less expensive upfront compared to lithium-ion and AGM batteries, the total cost of ownership (TCO) over time is crucial. Flooded batteries require regular maintenance (checking water levels, equalizing charges) and have shorter lifespans (typically 3-5 years under optimal conditions). In contrast, AGM batteries, while slightly more expensive initially, offer maintenance-free operation and longer lifespans (up to 7-10 years or more). Lithium-Ion Batteries: In 2021, lithium batteries were relatively expensive but offered significant advantages in efficiency, depth of discharge (DoD), and lifespan (often exceeding 10 years). As prices have decreased since 2021, lithium batteries have become a more attractive option for off-grid systems due to their higher performance and lower long-term costs. Maintenance Requirements: Flooded lead-acid batteries require significant maintenance, including periodic watering and equalization charges to prevent sulfation, which can diminish capacity and shorten lifespan. This maintenance not only adds cost but also requires time and knowledge to perform correctly. AGM and lithium batteries are generally maintenance-free, leading to lower operational costs and less hassle for users. Technological Advancements: The shift away from flooded lead-acid batteries in off-grid solar systems is largely due to advancements in battery technology, specifically lithium-ion and AGM batteries, which provide better performance, higher efficiency, and more reliable energy storage capabilities. As energy needs grow, especially with the increasing integration of solar power and electric vehicles, technologies that support high current loads and fast charging capabilities are essential. Lithium batteries excel in these areas due to their high energy density and fast charge/discharge capabilities. Conclusion In summary, the statement promoting flooded lead-acid batteries as superior for off-grid systems misrepresents their performance, cost-effectiveness, and maintenance requirements. The reality is that while flooded batteries may seem cost-effective upfront, their inefficiencies and maintenance needs make them less suitable for modern off-grid solar applications. AGM and lithium batteries, despite their initial costs, provide superior performance, lower maintenance, and longer lifespans, making them more viable in today’s energy landscape. As technology continues to evolve, understanding these distinctions is vital for anyone considering battery options for solar energy storage.

Thank you very much , this is a true easy way of guidance, much appreciated !

They are on sale now for $14.95.

VRLA vs AGM vs SLA?

Is there a way to turn off the charger controller when you're not using it

if you build your own batteries, you make a 4kwh battery for around 240 bucks now lol. thats like 1/5th the price of lead acid batteries.

Thanks

I wouldnt run any electronic devices with these things

You not only lose efficiency, the fan motor is going to run hotter than normal. Eventually it will fail due to increased heat. Any device designed for a pure sine wave is goint heat up. How hot depends on the components. For example, capacitors, diodes, inductors, motors.

Just one note: in my case I use (red) for all my positives and black for negatives that way there's no confusion.

Warning, not saying not to buy these, but do be mindful of the following. I have 2 that sat new in the box, one for over a year and one just under a year. Both were in the 12v range after opening the box. I charged the oldest one a few weeks before Helena and all went well. After the storm it worked for about a day on a fridge it should run for 4 days on 100ah battery. 1 day in, the voltage suddenly dropped substantially and a few hours later it shut itself down and wouldn't take a charge. I have yet to test the second one. There was no mention of the time sensitivities in the list of warnings on the battery. The seller stated it sat too long and if after I test the second and if it's bad, Im out nearly $400... obviously, very disappointing. Because it's reasonable to assume what I did could happen to others, it doesn't seem like expecting a warning in the already existing list of warnings on the battery would be asking too much and better yet on the box. I had read they can sit for 6 to 12 months and even then it would be just a matter of some degradation, however I never expected that to completely ruin the battery. Evidently these could not handle it or it/they were faulty. There is a video here that appears to have exactly the same problem and it was, according to the host, due to a substandard BMS. I may end up taking mine apart and posting the findings in a video since there are no actual tear downs of this battery...not that I could find.

These are JUNK ! I've had 2 of them, they both died just as the warranty expired..DONT BUY !!

Hi, came across this video by accident, but am glad I did. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share the info.

The GoKWH website models do not show a monitor panel on the battery tops.

Mine says 25% and the battery is on the 2nd showing yellow after 5 hours. Do you know what that means. Purchased mine today

This charger will not charge a battery that is totally dead. I don't know just how many volts it requires before it will start to work.. i know.. thats stupid. If the lights dont come on and you know you have it plugged into power, then the battery is to dead. You have to get some charge in that battery first. I cant suggest any ideas but maybe a 9 volt battery and some wires to trick the charger while its connected to the battery. Not a suggestion. Just a thought.