Відео

can u pls list all the ingredients? sorry i cant understand ur pronunciation

so cool

It's not only the thread, but also the needle. If you use a jeans/denim needle, you should use a heavier/ stronger thread.

Hi LarpWright - very interesting - but you miss out telling us something important: what is the weight of the finished product compared to the starting product (the canvas without the proofing)? This is obviously important for anyone wishing to use a canvas tarp for backpacking. I calculate from what you do tell us (and assuming all the white spirit/mineral alcohol evaporates off) that you end up with a weight that is roughly twice what you began with. But it would be nice if you could confirm this. (Commercial canvas oilskins seem to be able to get away with a finished product roughly one and a half times the starting weight of canvas, but it is not likely that a DIY product can compete with that.)

Nice guide, thanks! :)

very interesting video as my ranger chatracter im researching currently has ruana, shortbow, tomahawk + knife dual wield..and a pack goat carring tarp and a thick blanket.....one thing you didnt show was any cooking vessels....

Would you not simply lay the two fabrics together so the edge fold it over and sew it a second time that way you don't have to push all that fabric through the inside of your sewing machine

As a suggestion for this kind of thing, grab some strips or leather and stitch them around the ropes to make an easier place to hold onto that isn't going to damage your hands in the process of hauling it around, ropes can do some damage if things shift on you

I‘ be done one with lineseedoil…beeswax…..orangeoil….pinetreetar (10:6:4:1). Without any non natural ingredients.

Larpwright, you’ve got me thinking, you’re almost relying on a single application, rather than multiple applications. Maybe your 2/1 oil wax preparation should have been a base layer. Also, did you shrink your clothe before treatment?

Use boiled linseedoil (Leinöfirnis) and beeswax melted together in a 1:1 ratio. Bring it to the required consistency with mineral spirits ( Waschbenzin) or paint thinner. Apply with a broad brush, like the one used to apply paste to wallpaper. Hang to dry for at least two weeks or until the smell of linseedoil dissipates. Beeswax can be obtained from beekeepers quite cheaply, but must be cleaned by boiling it with water and scraping off the grime from the underside of the solidified wax. Refined beeswax is quite costly. Boiled linseedoil is sold in home improvement stores.

show! Farei um assim também. Parabéns e boas vibrações

hope you're doing well

It is often suggested first washing the cloth in hot water, allow to dry. This will cause the hot wet fabric to swell closing gaps in the weave. When it is dry it will have a tighter weave helping with water proofing of choice. Using wax may not be a good choice, one reason is when cold it will crack and sluff off exposing the cloth. For that reason they originally used whale/fish oil and linseed oil on the cloth, as in the name Oilcloth or Oilskin. Yes, one can use wax such as paraffin, however it should always be melted into the fabric, still when cool or cold waxed cotton is more stiff than Oilcloth and Oilskin, and less breathable.

I liked watching this and the ruana cloak build. It makes me miss larping and cobbling together outfit designs.

This is literally perfect, thank you so much ❤

Thanks so much for your video. It was very helpful.

Is it stab proof though

This is exactly the type of cloak i have been looking for i couldnt work out how to get the style of putting it over the shoulder with other cloaks! Did you manage to attach a hood like you mentioned could you tell us how you did it

thanks very much for this my friend. 'im making the new Zorro serie from prime cape, and its exactly like that.

This whole channel is a hidden gem

Thank you! I just got a Hudson Bay wool blanket which is huge and perfect for this kind of rucksack. I like this geometry better than others I've used. I found that rope digs into my shoulders after hiking for a while, since I'm in to traditional Trapper and Mountain Man gear and go on hikes. I use 1 inch wide polyweb for the shoulder strap instead and it's a little easier on the shoulders (alao known as "Mule Line" here in the States). Thanks again!

The Ruana is actually from Colombia not Ireland

Nice test! It's not very common to use 100% beeswax for waterproofing because it can be very stiff. Most recipes use 10% beeswax and 90% paraffin wax. I personally prefer around 20% beeswax, 70% paraffin wax and 10% vaseline (this is really just a mix of mineral oil and paraffin wax but cheaper and easier to get in the UK than pure mineral oil). The mineral oil component really helps to soften the final mix once cooled. Also worth noting that the ratio may change depending on climate - in very cold climates the wax will be firmer so you may need to increase the percentage of oil.

ESO ES TRAMPA!!

Thank you for the experiment! This is exactly what I was looking for! :)

i've never heard of that dying technique before. thanks for the video

Better way, line the ground cover so the pointy ends, one will be at your head, other feet. Align blankets to match. Basically, you are going to rotate yourself 45 degrees from where you normally would lay on a blanket. Head at a point, feet at a point. Pull the extra blanket point material up around feet, ankles, etc, and try to tuck it in between legs. This adds extra material to cold feet. Grabbing right blanket point, rap, folding it around you, tucking it, under you. Do the same for the left side. You will look like an egg roll. Now do this the same way with your canvas cover. You should have extra material around your head, a hoodie, to use as a cover up, over your head, if necessary. It basically squeezing out a bit more length out of blanket and cover. You do the same in a hammock, a proper hung hammock looks like a banana, hung at 35 degrees, you lay on a hammock diagonally as much as possible. This gives more room and makes a flat bed.

Hi, I make my water bottles using bovine thin veg tan. I assemble using evostik glue around the edges & saddle stitch together. I preheat the leather to hand hot in readiness for the sealing process. I melt & Mix " WW Grade Pine Rosin/Resin/Colophony" with beeswax on a 50/50 ratio. Whilst keeping the leather hot I pour in the mixture & rotate the leather & view where the mixture soaks through the leather & the seams. I repeat this until all the leather is the same wet/dark colour, then pour out the remaining mixture. Using a hot air gun I heat the outside & wipe off all excess mixture at the same time draining any internal droplets. I insert the stopper so that while everything cools/cures a shrink tight nozzle holder is formed. A higher ratio of the resin to beeswax can be initially used to get a thicker seal through the seams & this can be varied to obtain differing levels of flexibility in the waterskin.

I'm working with what ever I have around me as thread and needle etc lol

I have something I plan to craft shield as well.

Very nice. I'm trying to learn more . I recently skinned my leather furniture set of it's soft leather before I left it in an apt I was getting kicked out of. So got lots of leather . Time to learn crafting. I have a short type sword and made a sheath but I don't want the blade to eventually start to cut the binding of sheath. Try to protect sheath from coming apart due to using it with sword

Brilliant like the colour as well.

what kind of square are you using with the curved side? I need to get one of those lol

why such thin leather?

I never realised his was called a ruana cloak. Close to 20 years ago these were all the rage where I live, made out of thin(ish) synthetic wool-like fabric with fringes at the short ends. They were sold under the bale of “poncho” or “poncho-shawl”. I still have a burgundy one I absolutely love in winter at the office: I’m always cold and can wrap myself in it. The long edges are finished (very narrow hem). I’ve frequently considered making myself a hew one as the one I have is becoming a bit tatty. I’m in temporary housing right now (renovations, ugh!) but as soon as I have my sewing supplies and good scissors out of storage I’m taking the plunge and making myself a new one. I still have loads of very fine, soft wool fabric in my stash that would work perfectly for this. It’s got a lovely drape to it and I was saving it up for sole reason or other. Not anymore! I’m even considering some light embroidering along the edge of the cut in the middle and around the neck. Maybe. Alternatively perhaps something along the bottom edges that wouldn’t only fancy it up, but might slightly weigh down the undersides to help with wear and drape. Not sure yet. That can always be done once the basic cloak is finished. Thank you!

Looks just like the cloak's the hobbits were wearing in Lord of the Rings

Try Silicone and mineral spirits, it’s the best waterproof mixture.

✨😳✨ 👶👏🏕️

As someone who wears barefoot shoes in everyday life, ambient and/or historical boots are almost the same when you compare the sole. I've bought many different boots for LARPs over the past years, I think I've finally found my personal perfect boots. I stress the importance of personal. These boots are perfect for me and what I want from my boots.

My boy here is an honorary Boyacense! Sumerce!

Totally awesome I'm doing it .Thanks

Hey you mentioned talcum powder at the end there. What do you use that for?

Awesome! Thank you so much. How tall are you? I’m 6 foot even, Just curious if I should add that extra 20 like you or not.

so cool!! danke!

Things are either animal, vegetable or mineral. In this case cotton, a vegetable, so we want to treat it with a vegetable. Linseed oil, turpentine, alcohol, beeswax artist oil paint made of linseed oil base with tint are all ok. Any kind of petroleum product or mineral spirits is mineral and it will attack the fiber and weaken it over time. Good job here. Thanks for the video

Are you using boiled or regural linseed oil?

men that can sew are the hottest thing ever and u can not change my mind about it

is there a reason that youre not including iron oxide in your mixture?