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LarpWright
Приєднався 6 січ 2016
A channel about live action role play, larp. The focus of this channel is how to crafting tutorials. But I throw in reviews, fighting and anything that strikes my fancy, too.
How to mod a Nerf Hammershot
I'm modding a Nerf Hammershot for Post-apocalypse Larp. I'm going for a fairly generic look, so I can use this on a Zombie con, and on something more Fallout. I also install a tuning kit with metal parts and stronger spring, so this beauty shoots as good as it looks.
Переглядів: 1 103
Відео
The Complete Ranger Set: Finishing a Character
Переглядів 2,6 тис.2 роки тому
I show off and talk about all the ranger clothing and equipment I have made and bought for my new character over the last six months.
How to Make a Toolkit
Переглядів 2482 роки тому
I show you how I made the tookit for my ranger. But mostly, I talk about the concept behind a toolkit, and craftsman as a character concept.
How to Make an Oilskin Tarp
Переглядів 5 тис.2 роки тому
I show you how to make a robust, versatile tarp from oilskin, that will be of great use for any camp setup, through a wide range of character concepts.
How to Make a Simple Rawhide Lantern
Переглядів 1,3 тис.2 роки тому
I show you how to make a lantern with goat parchment sides, that is easy to make, uses candles, and gives off more light than any other rawhide lantern, that I have seen on UA-cam.
How (not) to make a Larp Sheath and sword holder
Переглядів 8542 роки тому
I show you, how I made this beautiful sheath for my short sword, and point out all the mistakes I made on this prototype, so you can do better. I'm also making a sword holder at the end of the video, that can be used on its own.
How to Make a Waterskin
Переглядів 2,7 тис.2 роки тому
I show you how to make a Waterskin for Larp or reenactment. It's not historic or anything, but it works, and looks good. Much better, than any mass produced waterskin you can buy.
Trying (and failing) to make a Waterskin
Переглядів 6292 роки тому
A waterskin is standard equipment for and D&D adventurer. But I have never actually seen one. So, I try how I could make my own.
How to Make an Oilskin Ground Cover and Bedroll
Переглядів 4,7 тис.2 роки тому
I show how to make an oilskin ground cover, how to use it to set up a bedroll, and set up your bed when camping.
Experimenting with Wax and Oil to make Oilskin
Переглядів 4,2 тис.2 роки тому
I want to make an oilskin tarp and ground cover. Searching for commercial stuff, I found that they use an oil / wax mixture on their fabric. Not finding anything about this online, I do a series of experiments with different mixtures, to find the perfect blend for the tarp.
Customizing an off-the-shelf Larp Weapon
Переглядів 2882 роки тому
(reupload with fixed sound) I'm customizing my mass produced, plain Calimacil foam weapon to my tastes. Customizing is a good way to give an individual look to mass produced equipment in general.
Review of Calimacil Foam Weaspons
Переглядів 4322 роки тому
I'm reviewing a pair of Calimacil foam weapons, and discuss how they compare to the best of homemade weapons.
How to Make a Fire Kit for Larp or Reenactment
Переглядів 2082 роки тому
I show you how to make and use a fire kit for use in Larp, reenactment or just for general camping and outdoor use. This is contained in a waterproof, waxed leather drybag and gives you three options to light a fire.
How to Make Pouches
Переглядів 1452 роки тому
I show you how to make two styles of pouches, you can hang from your belt, or use stand alone. These are easy to make, useful, cost little and make for a great present.
How to Make a Wax Cloth Dry Bag
Переглядів 1182 роки тому
I show you how to make a huge dry bag / sack from wax cloth that will keep a lot of clothing and other equipment dry when out in the wild, when camping, larping or doing reenactment.
How to Make Leather Galoshes / Half Chaps
Переглядів 1,4 тис.2 роки тому
How to Make Leather Galoshes / Half Chaps
Larp Boots: What kind of shoes to wear in live action role play
Переглядів 9112 роки тому
Larp Boots: What kind of shoes to wear in live action role play
Experimenting with Oilcloth and Wax Cloth
Переглядів 3 тис.2 роки тому
Experimenting with Oilcloth and Wax Cloth
Some Axe Stuff (Reply to Living Anachronism)
Переглядів 1352 роки тому
Some Axe Stuff (Reply to Living Anachronism)
How to Make a Leather Belt and Cross belt
Переглядів 3492 роки тому
How to Make a Leather Belt and Cross belt
can u pls list all the ingredients? sorry i cant understand ur pronunciation
so cool
It's not only the thread, but also the needle. If you use a jeans/denim needle, you should use a heavier/ stronger thread.
Hi LarpWright - very interesting - but you miss out telling us something important: what is the weight of the finished product compared to the starting product (the canvas without the proofing)? This is obviously important for anyone wishing to use a canvas tarp for backpacking. I calculate from what you do tell us (and assuming all the white spirit/mineral alcohol evaporates off) that you end up with a weight that is roughly twice what you began with. But it would be nice if you could confirm this. (Commercial canvas oilskins seem to be able to get away with a finished product roughly one and a half times the starting weight of canvas, but it is not likely that a DIY product can compete with that.)
Nice guide, thanks! :)
very interesting video as my ranger chatracter im researching currently has ruana, shortbow, tomahawk + knife dual wield..and a pack goat carring tarp and a thick blanket.....one thing you didnt show was any cooking vessels....
Would you not simply lay the two fabrics together so the edge fold it over and sew it a second time that way you don't have to push all that fabric through the inside of your sewing machine
As a suggestion for this kind of thing, grab some strips or leather and stitch them around the ropes to make an easier place to hold onto that isn't going to damage your hands in the process of hauling it around, ropes can do some damage if things shift on you
I‘ be done one with lineseedoil…beeswax…..orangeoil….pinetreetar (10:6:4:1). Without any non natural ingredients.
Larpwright, you’ve got me thinking, you’re almost relying on a single application, rather than multiple applications. Maybe your 2/1 oil wax preparation should have been a base layer. Also, did you shrink your clothe before treatment?
Use boiled linseedoil (Leinöfirnis) and beeswax melted together in a 1:1 ratio. Bring it to the required consistency with mineral spirits ( Waschbenzin) or paint thinner. Apply with a broad brush, like the one used to apply paste to wallpaper. Hang to dry for at least two weeks or until the smell of linseedoil dissipates. Beeswax can be obtained from beekeepers quite cheaply, but must be cleaned by boiling it with water and scraping off the grime from the underside of the solidified wax. Refined beeswax is quite costly. Boiled linseedoil is sold in home improvement stores.
This recipe comes from a 19th century manual, the only difference is the mineral spirits which replaces the oil of turpentine in the original. You can also add pigments like lampblack, iron oxide pigments ranging from ochre over brick-red to brown or a mix of ochre and lampblack 97% + 3% for olive.
Isn’t that the difference when dealing with the waxy feel. That turps breaks down the waxy feel, whereas, mineral spirit and isopropyl alcohol, help to apply the wax oil mixture before evaporating.
show! Farei um assim também. Parabéns e boas vibrações
hope you're doing well
It is often suggested first washing the cloth in hot water, allow to dry. This will cause the hot wet fabric to swell closing gaps in the weave. When it is dry it will have a tighter weave helping with water proofing of choice. Using wax may not be a good choice, one reason is when cold it will crack and sluff off exposing the cloth. For that reason they originally used whale/fish oil and linseed oil on the cloth, as in the name Oilcloth or Oilskin. Yes, one can use wax such as paraffin, however it should always be melted into the fabric, still when cool or cold waxed cotton is more stiff than Oilcloth and Oilskin, and less breathable.
I liked watching this and the ruana cloak build. It makes me miss larping and cobbling together outfit designs.
This is literally perfect, thank you so much ❤
Thanks so much for your video. It was very helpful.
Is it stab proof though
This is exactly the type of cloak i have been looking for i couldnt work out how to get the style of putting it over the shoulder with other cloaks! Did you manage to attach a hood like you mentioned could you tell us how you did it
thanks very much for this my friend. 'im making the new Zorro serie from prime cape, and its exactly like that.
This whole channel is a hidden gem
Thank you! I just got a Hudson Bay wool blanket which is huge and perfect for this kind of rucksack. I like this geometry better than others I've used. I found that rope digs into my shoulders after hiking for a while, since I'm in to traditional Trapper and Mountain Man gear and go on hikes. I use 1 inch wide polyweb for the shoulder strap instead and it's a little easier on the shoulders (alao known as "Mule Line" here in the States). Thanks again!
The Ruana is actually from Colombia not Ireland
Nice test! It's not very common to use 100% beeswax for waterproofing because it can be very stiff. Most recipes use 10% beeswax and 90% paraffin wax. I personally prefer around 20% beeswax, 70% paraffin wax and 10% vaseline (this is really just a mix of mineral oil and paraffin wax but cheaper and easier to get in the UK than pure mineral oil). The mineral oil component really helps to soften the final mix once cooled. Also worth noting that the ratio may change depending on climate - in very cold climates the wax will be firmer so you may need to increase the percentage of oil.
ESO ES TRAMPA!!
Thank you for the experiment! This is exactly what I was looking for! :)
i've never heard of that dying technique before. thanks for the video
Better way, line the ground cover so the pointy ends, one will be at your head, other feet. Align blankets to match. Basically, you are going to rotate yourself 45 degrees from where you normally would lay on a blanket. Head at a point, feet at a point. Pull the extra blanket point material up around feet, ankles, etc, and try to tuck it in between legs. This adds extra material to cold feet. Grabbing right blanket point, rap, folding it around you, tucking it, under you. Do the same for the left side. You will look like an egg roll. Now do this the same way with your canvas cover. You should have extra material around your head, a hoodie, to use as a cover up, over your head, if necessary. It basically squeezing out a bit more length out of blanket and cover. You do the same in a hammock, a proper hung hammock looks like a banana, hung at 35 degrees, you lay on a hammock diagonally as much as possible. This gives more room and makes a flat bed.
Hi, I make my water bottles using bovine thin veg tan. I assemble using evostik glue around the edges & saddle stitch together. I preheat the leather to hand hot in readiness for the sealing process. I melt & Mix " WW Grade Pine Rosin/Resin/Colophony" with beeswax on a 50/50 ratio. Whilst keeping the leather hot I pour in the mixture & rotate the leather & view where the mixture soaks through the leather & the seams. I repeat this until all the leather is the same wet/dark colour, then pour out the remaining mixture. Using a hot air gun I heat the outside & wipe off all excess mixture at the same time draining any internal droplets. I insert the stopper so that while everything cools/cures a shrink tight nozzle holder is formed. A higher ratio of the resin to beeswax can be initially used to get a thicker seal through the seams & this can be varied to obtain differing levels of flexibility in the waterskin.
I'm working with what ever I have around me as thread and needle etc lol
I have something I plan to craft shield as well.
Very nice. I'm trying to learn more . I recently skinned my leather furniture set of it's soft leather before I left it in an apt I was getting kicked out of. So got lots of leather . Time to learn crafting. I have a short type sword and made a sheath but I don't want the blade to eventually start to cut the binding of sheath. Try to protect sheath from coming apart due to using it with sword
Brilliant like the colour as well.
what kind of square are you using with the curved side? I need to get one of those lol
it's a tailor's triangle.
why such thin leather?
I never realised his was called a ruana cloak. Close to 20 years ago these were all the rage where I live, made out of thin(ish) synthetic wool-like fabric with fringes at the short ends. They were sold under the bale of “poncho” or “poncho-shawl”. I still have a burgundy one I absolutely love in winter at the office: I’m always cold and can wrap myself in it. The long edges are finished (very narrow hem). I’ve frequently considered making myself a hew one as the one I have is becoming a bit tatty. I’m in temporary housing right now (renovations, ugh!) but as soon as I have my sewing supplies and good scissors out of storage I’m taking the plunge and making myself a new one. I still have loads of very fine, soft wool fabric in my stash that would work perfectly for this. It’s got a lovely drape to it and I was saving it up for sole reason or other. Not anymore! I’m even considering some light embroidering along the edge of the cut in the middle and around the neck. Maybe. Alternatively perhaps something along the bottom edges that wouldn’t only fancy it up, but might slightly weigh down the undersides to help with wear and drape. Not sure yet. That can always be done once the basic cloak is finished. Thank you!
I am a knitter and crocheter and a ruana is easy peasy to make and oh so stylish!
Looks just like the cloak's the hobbits were wearing in Lord of the Rings
Try Silicone and mineral spirits, it’s the best waterproof mixture.
✨😳✨ 👶👏🏕️
As someone who wears barefoot shoes in everyday life, ambient and/or historical boots are almost the same when you compare the sole. I've bought many different boots for LARPs over the past years, I think I've finally found my personal perfect boots. I stress the importance of personal. These boots are perfect for me and what I want from my boots.
My boy here is an honorary Boyacense! Sumerce!
Totally awesome I'm doing it .Thanks
Hey you mentioned talcum powder at the end there. What do you use that for?
Awesome! Thank you so much. How tall are you? I’m 6 foot even, Just curious if I should add that extra 20 like you or not.
@@larpwright thank you man! Just made a nice ruana cloak from this video for viking fest here in California. Much lighter material tho given the climate.
so cool!! danke!
Things are either animal, vegetable or mineral. In this case cotton, a vegetable, so we want to treat it with a vegetable. Linseed oil, turpentine, alcohol, beeswax artist oil paint made of linseed oil base with tint are all ok. Any kind of petroleum product or mineral spirits is mineral and it will attack the fiber and weaken it over time. Good job here. Thanks for the video
You can use naphtha mixed with silicone. The silicone dissolves into a solution that is carried into the threads by the naphtha. The naphtha evaps completely in about 2 hours, leaving just the silicone, which is inert and does not harm fabrics. Also, it will be ready to use in about 4 hours of drying. I recommend an addtional coating be applied by roller onto the "out" side while the tarp is setup and stretched normally, to fill any crossover holes and any stitches. Emphasis on the stitch lines, as you would with any seam treatment. I have made about a dozen tarps, both canvas and cotton sheets using boiled linseed oil/mineral spirits/toilet ring "wax". They have covered my sailboats, and served well as camp tarps, and firewood covers, as well as camping table covers and a couple rain coats for my dog. This, over the last ten years. None of them has ever degraded whatsoever, and, once fully cured, they do not catch fire. NOTE: NEVER tightly roll up or fold and store any fabric treated this way until fully cured out. This can take up to several weeks. Until it is fully cured, it CAN combust on its own. This is why I recently switched to using the silicone/naphtha solution.
Not sure about your logic here: isn't petroleum derived from plants - even if very ancient plants and over millions of years of extreme conditions?
Vegetable was treated with mineral and eventually became mineral. Same as when you over oil a rifle or shotgun action and the oil seeps into the stock and eventually mineraluzes the wood changing the grain structure and weakening it
Are you using boiled or regural linseed oil?
men that can sew are the hottest thing ever and u can not change my mind about it
is there a reason that youre not including iron oxide in your mixture?
I didn't want to color the samples.