Відео

I also acetone vapor smooth my parts and they are always strong enough to hold up well (ABS)

It’s not. You’re right. That was a test fit. I always test fit with low infill to save time and materials. That’s not even petg in that video. It’s PLA. The final print was solid PETG.

😂 😂 😂 probably! Maybe then my kids would understand it better!

Generally speaking, I use fillets a LOT. Very easy way to reduce stress concentrations. However, on this particular part the mode of failure would most likely be layer adhesion. Filleting wouldn’t really help in this situation.

I don’t have that file available. But I am in the process of developing a website that will include a section for downloading STL files that I design. So stay tuned!

👍

I have not worked with ABS yet. It’s on my list of things to do along with trying carbon fiber filaments. So far PETG has been sufficient for almost all my applications. But I have some product ideas that may require more strength. I’ll post about it once I give it a try! Thanks for the suggestion!

@@ProHomeByDodgeDesignsfair warning, you aren’t going to get far into ABS, CF composites, or PC, without a heated enclosure

Yep 🤷🏼‍♂️

You’re right. That’s was just a test print. I always print low infill for test prints to check the fit before making the final piece.

I’ve had some petg parts fail but it was mostly due to design errors. If you understand the weaknesses you can figure out how to properly work around it to design a better (stronger) part. Functional 3D prints are possible and are increasingly becoming more common. Thanks for the comment!

If designed correctly, 3D printed parts can be very strong. It’s all about knowing the weaknesses and working around them. And as I stated in my follow-up video, the gate is to keep my dog out. My kids are older now. So I’m not worried.

That is a great point. You're right, I've only used TPU for flexible parts. But with I higher Shore hardness and more infill you can make a pretty rigid part. And layer adhesion issues are almost non-existent. The only issue I find with TPU is how SLOOOOOOOW it is to print.

@@ProHomeByDodgeDesigns - If you print 8+ walls and/or mostly solid infill, regular 95A durometer TPU makes a solid part. It's a hard rubbery plastic, but you can, for example, put anchors in the wall and screw a solid TPU part to the wall and it'll only deform slightly. The old 30 mm/s wive's tale for TPU should be ignored. It doesn't print as fast as PLA or PETG, but solid objects can be printed at 50-100 mm/s, mostly depending on the extruder, part size and cooling. Sometimes faster is better. TPUs biggest problems are overhangs, bridging and stringing. Slicers have a setting that keeps the nozzle within the part whenever possible and that prevents stringing by keeping the ooze that would cause stringing inside the part. Another TPU wive's tale is no retraction. That guarantees stringing. You should use retraction, but you might need to retract slower and longer to prevent stringing, and avoid rapidly retracting and de-retracting (there's a slicer setting for that) to avoid chewing up the TPU filament for retraction intensive prints. You may need to spend more time fine tuning settings for optimal performance and you may need to tweak the settings with different brands of TPU, but for the simple part in this video, a generic TPU setting should work well enough.

Thanks for all the advice! I’m definitely going to explore working with some harder TPU, especially if I can speed it up a bit.

Exactly! Just know the weaknesses and work around them!

Yeah I haven't started using CF filaments. I plan to hopefully get into that soon. I've just been so busy printing other parts that I haven't had time to play around with it. But it sounds like it would be great. Is it tough on the printer?

I don’t have any experience using 3D scanners but I imagine they are going to become quite popular. One day I’m sure I’ll try it out. The possibilities are endless!

I definitely agree about the perimeter walls. That's always my first go-to when trying to increase strength. However, I don't discount the value of infill because it helps to effectively increase the layer adhesion (by increasing contact area). So if layer adhesion is a concern for a specific part then I find increasing infill to be appropriate as well. Your second point, I'm not sure what you mean about designing from a solid block. Do you mean: make the part as large as possible instead of focusing on all the curves of the design? Because aesthetics is also a factor for certain designs. Maybe I'm misunderstanding your point.

I couldn’t agree more. My entire career (and life) has been about learning as much as I can from others. I love teaching others but I will never stop learning. I wish UA-cam could just be filled with constructive feedback. Obviously that’s not reality 🤷🏼‍♂️

Not sure what you mean by “copy the part.” You mean with a 3D scanner?

Yeah printing at an angle could definitely help. Vertical would be ideal if it weren’t for those screw holes. But a 45 deg or so angle could be the best compromise. I’ll see how it goes.

The only way to go IMO! Been using it for 10+ years!

Exactly! I’d rather spend more time to make a better finished product. Gotta take pride in your work!

Normal layering. I just looked up bricklayering. Seems like a good idea. Do you have to modify the G code to do that?

@ProHomeByDodgeDesigns depends on your printer and Software. I have some cheap Chinese Modell with proprietary Software, hence I use a python Script to adjust the gcode. Haven't looked into cura tho

hmm. something to look into. Thanks!

That would be crazy! Maybe one day 🤞

Got curious this morning and googled 3D print in metal.... wow! It exists! It's called Wire LMD Technology. crazy! Still seems like more of an industrial application than an at-home system but I bet we're not far off!

My first move is always to add more walls for structure. For this part, layer adhesion was a concern, so I increased the infill to effectively increase the layer adhesion (due to the larger contact area).

I was writing a comment saying that it wasn't 100% infill and looked closer to 25% and then I got to the end of the video 🤣. I agree the 3d print will probably last longer than the original unless something weird/extreme happens.

Yeah I often print parts with low infill just to check the size and fit before I print the final piece.

That's very cool. The possibilities are endless when it comes to 3D printing! My only experience with metalwork is some mig welding I do for furniture (simple joints for table legs, brackets, etc.). I have a cheap mig setup. I wish I could work with aluminum. Metal is awesome!

Well considering it’s my gate I’m not too worried 😂

Probably a good idea 😂

So true

Thanks!

Thanks!

I partially agree. It’s often unnecessary to have a high infill. However, this assumes that layer adhesion is not an issue. By increasing the infill then you effectively increase the layer adhesion (by increasing the surface area between layers). So yes, if the printer is perfectly dialed in and the filament you use has great layer adhesion then the infill will be less important. But I wouldn’t say more infill is a waste.

I agree that increasing the # of walls is a great way to increase strength. I use that method all the time (especially when I have holes or thinner walls). However, I don’t agree with your point about the 100% infill. You’re assuming the material is isotropic. Then, if properly structural design is performed, you can plan for a ductile response to flexure. FDM printing is anything but isotropic. There are weaknesses all over the part. So to compensate for that then sometimes 100% infill is appropriate. At least that’s my opinion.

@@ProHomeByDodgeDesigns a fair point and something i will consider in the future

Gotta be informed!

Got tired of responding to the same comments 🤷‍♂️

Wasn't nonsense if he made more money and put out more information because of it.

@@railroaded1991 dont shorts like idk not make money?

​@zman91510 your reply makes no sense at all. Did he make more money and put out more info with his reply or not?

The only way to go! Been using it for years!

Absolutely! I had the exact same thing happen to me. I couldn't figure out why my PETG was looking matte. I have to admit I kind of liked the look of it. But then I noticed it was breaking (which was abnormal for this piece). I finally realized I was accidentally using my PLA settings (which is a much lower temperature). I didn't realize I switched it. Ooops! Switched it back ... it went right back to shiny and strong!

Yes! A while ago I accidentally printed PETG on a PLA+ profile (215°C), and it printed just fine, looked good even, but WOW the layer adhesion was weak... I had no idea people printed PETG at 280°C though!! What's the advantage of going that far over the standard ~240°C upper bound that most manufacturers list for PETG??

@@evanmayer744 I think the problem is that the printer I'm using goes so fast that the PETG isn't heating up to 230 or 240. It's probably getting around 200 and leaving the nozzle not hot enough to adhere to the new layer. I've actually been bumping up my heat for all my printers and I find that the increased heat helps a lot with quality

I print my PETG at around 250 deg and get good results.

​@@evanmayer744 HF PLA profile in bambu lab ramp up to max 270°c. Because it was print to fast to melt probably with normal temp. Same thing can happened for other filament

So true

People complaining about how he's replace a plastic hinge with a plastic hinge...... No one's taking about the fact the manufacturer shipped it with a plastic hinge. 3d printing "What if it break" Wellll that's the reason why it needs replacing it broke....

@@JackTalyorD I actually don't care if someone made mistake or sale defects. I don't tell people on the internet what to do; I'm dealing my own F business and just enjoy the good content.

@dolby360 well you got a point there. View it for enjoyment. I was more thinking along the lines of get some prospective....dose it really matter.... Different sides of the same coin maybe

@ 😘

Not sure where you get 7 hrs lol. Took me 10 min to design. Then click print!

PETG with 100% infill

The video is a little misleading. The finished part is actually much more solid. The original part was cheap hollow plastic. That being said, I don’t advise using printed parts for safety situations. This was for my own personal use. I wouldn’t chance it for a customer. This was just to show how versatile 3D printing can be.

I get it. The piece in the video wasn’t the final piece, just a test fit. The final piece was much more solid.