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Yep. Definitely took some ideas from him for this setup.

Thanks!

Duuuude! Thats the best cheap bazooka ever!

Yep! No need to spend that kind of money!

Oh no!! So sorry to hear that! Yeah it’s always a concern.

Thanks! Yes this project took a loooong time. But well worth it!

Should be back in stock in a few weeks. Amazon has a slow process for bringing in new inventory.

@@ProHomeByDodgeDesigns Ok, thanks for the answer. If I know for sure they will be back in stock again, I may go ahead and order some bins. I just wanted to see for sure if they were coming in stock because I want the dividers. Thanks!

Yes they will definitely be back in stock soon. Sorry for the delay!

Great question. So next to the packout drawers (behind me in the video) is another set of wood drawers. That’s where I have my saws (circular saws, jig saws, sawzall, etc.). I’m still able to reach it while standing outside. I am planning to get a trim saw (mini circular saw) that fits inside the packout drawers so at least I have something to cut plywood at all times.

Thanks for the support! Glad you enjoyed the video!

Hi! Thanks for watching! Yes I plan to do a van walkthrough at some point. I’m still in the process of doing some upgrades so once those are complete I’ll do a video. Do you use Packout? We make bins for the 4 drawer units and we have some other Packout accessories in production and should be out soon. Stay tuned!

The one in this video was a flush trim bit (1/2” diameter by 5/8” long by 1/4” shank). But it if you have a flush trim bit that’s close to these dimensions it should work too.

@@ProHomeByDodgeDesigns also, to be clear, I should be able to use this on the door frame as well? It's unfinished and the stop trim hasn't been installed yet.

Yes. Just make sure you get a good woodworking double-sided tape to attach to the door jamb (or use the included screw brackets, but that leaves some holes you’ll have to fill).

What are you referring to? J channel?

Yes. They have a Climatek coating that’s rated for exterior use. In fact, most roofing nails (which are most commonly used for siding) are only electroplate galvanized which is not really effective for exterior use.

Go for it! That’s why I made the video. I took some of the ideas from other videos I’ve watched and added some of my own features to make it work for my needs. I expect my viewers will do the same!

Excellent job! Simplistic and repeatable, will be stealing parts of this.

Go for it! Let me know if you have any other upgrades to improve on my design. Always looking for suggestions!

You’re right. It will be a little annoying for the next owners to remove. And you could have used long hex bolts and cut off the heads once installed. That works. The only issue is that it’s much harder to level it perfectly. By using the method I did in this video I was able fine tune it to level once I mounted the shelf. Gave me a little wiggle room.

It’s attached with 1/4-20 thumbscrews. Check out my full length video about the setup where I show all the components if you want to see it more closely.

I have flex but that looks good too

@@BK-gc1jmyeah I feel like all the companies are trying to compete for the best drawer system.

Milwaukee's are nice. I just found the deals at Lowe's, to be much better. When they almost look like they're made by the same people. As far as these boxes go they're both the Mercedes of boxes. Pack out and stack pack. Sound similar

Glad you’re enjoying them! Good luck with the house!

Thanks 👍

It definitely has its pros and cons. Easy to install, relatively inexpensive, but definitely susceptible to damage. That's why I always tell people to keep a lot of extra siding. You never know!

This tip is also for homeowners who aren't paid at all and just want another option.

Good point! Helps if you're just temporarily removing some siding and putting it back in the same holes!

That's what I'm saying dude

Oh James Newcomb a real tough guy 😂😂😂

It's so you can hang a hat on the inside. Everyone knows that.

that was less than 4 inches... I'm sure you know all about that

Those are 2" screws. I usually use either 1-1/2" or 2".

​@@ProHomeByDodgeDesignsthose cabinet screws exterior grade?

Yes they are. They have a special coating that allows for exterior use (even in pressure-treated lumber).

Yes in a perfect world the beams in the ceiling will be lined up right where you want them. Unfortunately, construction is far from perfect. And nails are only so long. This helps when the nails won’t reach far enough.

Glad you liked it!

Thats exactly what i do 2x4 cut 45°

Angle for sure or crown will not sit correctly

Yes I’ve done it that way as well. The angle helps. Sometimes it’s just about what you have with you on site.

@@ProHomeByDodgeDesigns How true that is. Whenever we do crown molding I know we'll be putting on walls running parallel with ceiling joists, where you will if at all run into a no nailer situation. so it becomes automatic to have it cut and on hand. You know you can purchase backing precut from some location if all else fails. Keep up the fine work.

Watch our other video for the “Pro Bins”. They come in black and replaced our red bins. The Pro Bins are made from a more durable plastic. The link to purchase the Pro Bins is in the description for that video. They are sold on Amazon.

Yep that works too. This way is just faster and doesn’t require any other tools.

@@ProHomeByDodgeDesigns ÿeah but it will dull the drill and fast. sure if you hardly use it i guess its viable

With enough mud anything is possible

I like SuffX. I’ve used that too. Definitely durable and it also has really nice coverage (even from just one coat). But it doesn’t have the leveling properties that the cabinet coat or advance has.

You bet!

That’s true. But not a common setup.

Yes you can, but that’s riskier. It could twist the hinge if the door slips. But even more likely is that the hinge won’t line up perfectly. The slightest bit off can shift the hinge over and crush some of the wood that’s around the hinge mortise, which can look less professional. I’ve seen it many times, especially on softer doors like pine.

They’re great! I use them for so many different things!

So unfortunately, that’s a tough question because there are lots of variables. But assuming it’s a standard door in a standard frame, then just measure the width of the door itself (without the door jamb or trim). Common sizes are 28”, 30”, and 32”. The measurement might be slightly smaller than those measurements because the doors are typically cut down slightly on one side after being built. Standard height is typically 80”. Obviously these are US measurements. They would be different internationally. But unless you plan to install the door yourself then I suggest you hire a carpenter to make sure the size is correct. Sometimes people make custom size doors that look the same as standard doors. Good luck!

Yes, absolutely

haha good idea

That’s obviously the best solution. As a carpenter that’s what I would normally do. This is for the homeowner who doesn’t have the time or money to fully reset the door.

I understand your point. As a carpenter I often come across houses that have multiple doors that are either stuck or out of plumb. That could definitely be part of a bigger issue (like foundation or structural framing issues). However, this particular door was just improperly installed. It’s an isolated issue for this house.