Відео

A few things. First I was following a build that was for a Tacoma. I believe that person’s handle on UA-cam is Ripcord. Second, I didn’t think I could make the cuts and get the angles on the 8020. I think you would need some custom plates at the connections. I’ve seen 8020 frames being sold more so maybe that’s the way to go.

I would recommend a miter saw also. If you have one, use that.

I don’t know the weight. Wish I had those numbers for you. The heaviest piece by far is the wedge top. That I pull off in two pieces (the top and the frame).

I saw that they now have a "G900 Pro" for about the same price. It looks like it has the phone interface where you can more easily access the videos on the SD card.

@@bobsadventuretime I think I read that too. I'm interested in it mostly for visibility out of the back while driving so camera placement is a priority. The other features are nice and I might end up using the front camera for security.

Thanks! I'm still really liking the mirror.

Thanks! I had the low profile roof on all winter. It was perfect for parking in ramps. I don’t have any changes to that roof. I would like a pulley system in my garage to help switch out the roofs.

Glad you liked it!

I bought the smaller "2020" aluminum extrusion on Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B09JVW7VRX/ref=dp_iou_view_item?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You can find other sources online also (e.g., 8020.net/). Hope that helps.

These latches do not lock from the inside. Most of the time, I sleep with the "windoors" open. The latches are reachable from inside the tent (if you have long arms) so you could close and lock the drivers / passenger sides while on the ground, climb up in the tent and close/lock the back. There's probably a "latching mechanism" that you could add on the inside if you wanted.

Here is the spec sheet for this controller: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-75-10,-75-15,-100-15,-100-20_48V-EN.pdf This is the only controller in the table that is capable of putting out 48V, but it also supports 12 and 24V systems. Great question, and I often see this controller listed something like "100/20-48V" which makes it confusing.

Glad it was helpful!

Yeah....those outside shots are hard to listen to. This was an older video that I shot using only my iPhone....I later purchased a better microphone solution.

Happy to answer questions here for all to learn. Otherwise, bob.cravens at gmail.

@@bobsadventuretime I just wanted to go over dimensions and what not. I want to build just an adventure cap with 80/20 and no wedge. Exactly like the gfc topper. Just wanted to see if you have any plans or drawings with measurements for the space frame. Thanks !

I see. Unfortunately I don’t have any plans or drawings. I figured out everything on the fly. I tried to share that in the videos but definitely not super thorough.

@@bobsadventuretime how’d you water proof? For the latches what do the “grab” onto on the inside to lock?

The latches grab on to a little "tab" that I welded on the frame. You can see it around 23:49 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/jqheOSRgPc0/v-deo.html In that same video around 30:05 i show the rubber seals that I use for the windoors to water proof them. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have additional questions.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks 👍

Good luck with your build.

Sorry for the delay on this...from the DECKED system to the bottom of the wedge (the surface where you sleep) is 2'9". It's not a lot if you were going to spend any significant time sitting in the bed. I do love the DECKED system though. My bed panels are all removable, so i can fold up the foam mattress and remove the bed panels when the wedge is open. That provides enough space for me to stand.

I think extrusion would absolutely work. I chose the steel mainly because I knew the lower frame wasn't a box with right angles and I was not sure if i could get a repeatable complex cut. I knew I could get the cut "close enough" with steel tubing and fill in any gaps with weld. Good luck on your build! I really enjoyed building the camper and hope you do too.

I hope you enjoy making your build as much as I enjoyed making mine! As for the corners, you could be right…but i’ve never experienced any leaking inside the camper when it was closed. I do have a rubber seal that sits in the 8020 of the top that mates down onto the bottom. So when they come together, that is a pretty good seal. I did nothing special with the corners. Good idea on the magnet for moving the t-nuts. Generally, i have been able to use a small allen wrench to fit in the gap and move things around. I also preposition all of them pretty close so typically no issues. Just built the other top recently and repeated that process again…no issues. But I like the magnet idea…probably would have done that if I thought of it ;-) I was a bit concern about the strength and flexing that the base frame would experience. I’ve seen others weld supports to beef that up. I have been driving the truck with the weight of the wedge top for a couple of years. I regularly check my welds…they are ugly but they are holding. I haven’t noticed any misalignment issues at all. Good luck with your build!

Thank you! Cheers!

Investigate how the Decked drawer system (decked.com/products/drawers) does their wheels. They aren't the typical "slides that lock and extend". They are more "wheel based" and I think that adding those to the sides of the extrusion might be less expensive.

@@bobsadventuretime Thanks I'll take a look. My plan B is to weld up my frames and use cheap skateboard wheels instead. But now I'm wondering if I could attach those same skateboard wheels to the 8020 profile. Hmmmmmm.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Here is a link to the automatic transfer switch that I am using: www.amazon.com/dp/B00153EYTO. I've had ZERO problems with it.

Sure, in this video (ua-cam.com/video/jqheOSRgPc0/v-deo.html) I create the "cap" part of the build. At around 15:56 you can get a good view of the hinges. They are nothing special...stainless...3 hole hinges. At about 19:08 in that video I talk about ditching the "nutserts" and welding some bolts onto the hinges. Hope that helps.

No problem!

Glad you liked it!

My guess is that you could....however....my gut feeling is that there are probably more economic choices for a large green house.

I do not. It's hard enough for me to find the time to do my own projects ;-) Good luck on your project though. If you really need some design work, I believe that 8020.net/ offers links to design software and / or help doing the actual design.

I would think that the LM rail has a certain profile for the bolts that you should use. Once you know that profile, you can back into the length / size of the bolt. Not sure how much weight you will have on your sled / speed of travel, so you will need to use that info to figure what size of aluminum extrusion to use to keep the design sturdy. Hope that helps.

I didn’t notice any noise. The only panel big enough to really vibrate is probably the roof. All the other pieces are pretty stiff. When the roof is down I have a mattress and bedding thick enough to come in contact with the roof panel. I’m sure this helps dampen any vibrations that might be started. I’ve not driven with it without the mattress in a long time and but I don’t remember anything annoying. Recently I built the topper that I can swap in for the wedge top. It provides a lower profile (1.5” vs 5.5”) but has the same material on the top (5’ x 6’). This top is 4’ shorter than the wedge top (no cab over hang) but doesn’t have anything dampening vibrations. Just drove a 2000+ mile trip with that and I didn’t noticed anything from that panel either.

There is a circuit breaker between the battery and the inverter that I use to turn off the inverter. I generally keep it off as I normally do not have AC loads and don’t want the residual draw off the inverter.

Sorry for the late reply. I'd recommend starting off by going to one of the suppliers (e.g., 8020 or tnutz) and then search for the profile you are going to use. They will show you a bunch of standard options / sizes. You can either buy from them or use that info and source it from some where else (e.g., mcmaster-carr or a local store).