Відео

They make a huge percentage of them for other European brands.

Send me an email sir!

The copper is atomically thin, so while it's pretty, I think it's not viable protection for the frame. I ended up clear coating it once I got to the patina I wanted. Douglas explains how to keep the process going for longer to add multiple layers of copper, but I never got that far.

Thanks very much! There's a 360 mount add-on that I'm working on as we speak.

I filled the bolts with enough red locktight that they are solid for me. Please can you send me a picture, you are the first to get back with a complete build, so congrats.

@@SladeTakalaLamey Now that the loctite dried, mine is stable too. I will send you some photos soon ;)

Yup!

The copper is atomically thin, Laura has stripped and painted her petrol tank, and I've clear coated my frame. If you look further up my video list, I've upgraded a little. So my copper experiment has been demoted to pub bike I'm afraid. I live in an old communal yard in Turku, Finland, and all the wooden houses have a basement cupboard. But yes, I love my shed, wish it was bigger!

The nuts are M6, and the bolts come with a 5mm hole. So in order to get a bolt through the eyelets before going into the nut at the back corner the eyelets needed to be made a bit bigger. Hope that helps. I'm thinking about developing this into a product for next year so you may not have to make one. The eyelets that fit the rack to the bike are 5mm so they fit the M5 bolts that are used to attach it to the frame.

@@SladeTakalaLamey many thanks, and one last question if thats ok - you have inspired me, but making some modifications. How problematic do you think it will be to use 10mm ID, 12mm OD CF tubes and still use the same m6 screw nuts (I realise their OD is about 9mm), could I get away with just using more glue to pick them in do you think? (I’d like 12mm OD tubing for various reasons).

@@traderz13 it's a pleasure, I'm really enjoying the engagement. The only reason I used the 11mm OD was because I thought the M5 eye holes were the most important dimension and I didn't want the rack to rattle on the bike. If I were to change anything it would be buying 10mm carbon cross tubes and M5 nuts in the cross bar. That way I could use M5 bolts to join the hinge together without drilling out the eye bolts. However if you can find a way to mount it to the bike with M5 bolts in 6mm eyelets without it wobbling, please let me know. I'd love to see what you come up with. I'm thinking of launching a product, ordering boxes and shipping worldwide. But there's some development work to do first.

@@SladeTakalaLamey Ill defo send you what i end up with. i want the 12mm OD/10mm ID tubes because I want to use 12mm T joints (cant find any in 11mm) as i need a diff saddle connection to the top of rack set up owing to bike geometry (I can then also use them for the cross tubes on the top of rack as well). I agree with your preference for the m5 bolting to the bike, So that means i would have to use the same m6 bolt and eylet combo, hence my question on whether you think: with the m6 nut OD of 8.9mm, I can glue it into the 10mm ID of CF tubing by just using more glue? (I am guessing from your comment on using the 10mm cross tube(ID8mm?) and m5 nuts with an OD of 6.9mm, which would also require packing with 1.1mm glue, that you think packing that much with glue will be ok - im guessing since its 0.55mm all the way round its not too bad - but just wondered your thoughts!)

@@traderz13 I wrote the reply without properly investigating the ID of a 10mm tube. I think a 0.55mm gap is not ideal. But you might be ok. You could buy some carbon shavings to pack the hole. That way it would at least be a composite of glue and fibers.

I've tested it with a bag full of camera batteries and jackets, I'm off on a 1000k packing race in a few weeks, so a long-term review will be coming.

It was a trial while I worked out the aero bar mounts. If you look at my solar panel film, I've solved that problem now.

ua-cam.com/video/x8eEqjENEUU/v-deo.htmlsi=BsxX7tK4BRVOnGBM

@@SladeTakalaLamey Oh 👍

I'm taking it on a 1000k race this summer, so watch this space.

We two are on the same path! I'm just further down it.

FSA integrated N.55 R 1 1/8" 36-45°, they supplied it, It was a gap in my knowledge and I figured it was the best way to ensure it fit. There's a whole Google doc with specs and components in the description. Btw.

Thanks very much.

Hi, I'm doing my best to answer all the questions, I'm still a small enough UA-camr for that. The middle rods are only there to stiffen up the lateral flex and also to provide a platform for bags to sit on, so they didn't need to be that strong. I plan to test the tensile strength test of the rod-nut-bolt combo by stringing up the eyelet in each end and seeing how much weight the epoxy can hold. I have some leftovers to play with. Thus far I have pulled as hard as I can with a string loop at each end, and they didn't budge. I'd love to see a carbon-sheet rack, but that is for someone else to tackle! Please send me a link if you see one. I'm testing it out in a 1000k gravel race in a few weeks, so watch this space and I'll let you know how it holds up.

Even the big heavy duty pannier racks are only screwed into those mounting holes, they are stronger than you think. I would suggest getting some steel or Ti bolts though. You are strong enough to break an aluminium M5 bolt just by screwing it in too light.

I'm doing a 1000k race in a few week, so watch this space

That was my plan but for different reasons. I'm gonna try and go small and light. (They tend to be cheaper anyway).

It's working a treat for my bag with my sleeping gear in it and that's all it needs to do. No need to over engineer. But I agree, if I needed it to do more, it would need better support!

I could roll coal but it might spoil the atmosphere of the race.

@@SladeTakalaLamey hehehehe Good one 😅 Greetings from Croatia 😎

Very nice of you to say. Theres a more detailed version to watch here if you like. ua-cam.com/video/sLK4O2Unjhk/v-deo.htmlsi=K2LiOmyDJGpYxd0c

I am going to buy my lunch every day in a cafe, but I'll be hammocking overnight so there will be some power points to use. The 1000k is countryside not wilderness. I have found that I lean over the aero bars every now and then and make a shadow, but with 20 hours of daylight, I'm sure I'll get some juice.