Відео

Seems like you didn't watch the whole video. That part is actually 2 pieces that are cut apart. After finish cutting, you can't see the layers at all since the first pieces are bigger than the finished parts.

You can watch the video if you're curious. I just used a vise and made them more oval to go around the exhaust ports.

There's lots of 3D files available on the internet. Thingiverse is an example of one.

Initial testing hasn't shown any issues. Granted, I have yet to break from any high speeds, but they do stop the car with no problem in the driveway.

There is no need to worry. The whole car is going to be tested in a semi controlled environment before it gets on track. While I agree with the fact that the underside of the wing generates the downforce, it's not because air is compressing at all. Rather accelerating, creating a pressure differential from the top side to underside, creating am overall downward force. Adding more support will have an efficiency loss, but I'd rather have an efficiency loss than a shaky wing. Regarding other failures, if it fails, I'll learn from it and move on. Just because someone somewhere does something doesn't make it gospel. If I did only what the internet told me, I wouldn't have a car at all, most likely.

I can assure you with 100% certainty that it is not creating any lift at its current angle of attack.

I'm going to head the tension rod route and see what that does. Some carbon tubes are on their way.

@slightedengineering That would look perfect! Also think using the pre-existing bolts to mount them would be better than drilling new holes

Since it's an old car, it seems to be really thin metal, which doesn't help the stiffness. But is good for power to weight ratio lol

True, I think I'll try some carbon pultruded rods. I think the combination should be stiff enough. Plus more carbon fiber is never a bad thing

I have, but I'm sure someone out there doesn't have one and could use this trick in a pinch.

Someone has to make sure we don't forget the past.

I'm glad I could be of assistance 👍

There are plenty of ways to do anything and everything. I'm just showing a fabrication trick.

There are plenty of ways to do anything and everything. I'm just showing a fabrication trick.

Thank you, I appreciate it! There's always room for improvement.

Maybe for Christmas

A universal hatred.

Something that could be tried. But I usually never have a thin piece lying around.

I do, but I was already using the press so why not just change a bit.

Yeah, debur is the way to go. Maintains your tolerance if a tight fit is necessary, too

If you don't drill all the way through, the tolerance is minimally affected.

​@@slightedengineeringor you could spend 12$ and use the right tool for the job. Changing bits and relocating the holes is a waste of time. What you are doing works in a pinch, sure. But you won't get much done if you're always doing it that way, and you risk blowing out the hole. Sighted engineering? More like blind guessing. And for the love of God, ditch the gloves when working with spinning tools.

@@IkesThePyro Good thing my unheated garage isn't a production environment where time and efficiency are paramount 👍

@@IkesThePyroquick question do you know how to read. It’s slighted not sighted. You comment loses validity if you can’t get the name right

Seems like that's specialized and expensive. It also means not using the tools I already own.

Well, you know what they say. " You can never own too many tools," haha. An inexpensive Step drill bit or better still an End mill bit will do a better and quicker job on sheet metal than the method your using. Give it a try.

That could work. I never really tried that with drilling metal, more with wood.

Wood backer works just fine

I want to actually cut the metal a bit to clean it up. There are plenty of ways to do things.

I want to actually cut the metal a bit to clean it up. The burrs are usually a bit larger since the drill quite literally just went through it from the other side.

That's also an option. Step drills always have weird sizes so I prefer drill bits when I want to match up to through bolt connections

If I had one I would

I think a counter sink is for wood. A deburring bit is for metal. But respectively do the same thing.

​@@junkv57 Counter sinks exist for both 😊

​@@junkv57the tools is called a Counter sink you can get them in different grades they make em for wood they make em for metal 😂

Yeah, it worked great!

​@@slightedengineeringyippee!

I prefer to just leave extra on it since I can cut it off in the post-processing since it's composites.

I honestly have no idea what the capabilities are of the piggy back system. If you want to keep all the gauges working you could probably run extra signal wires for what you need. Mainly whatever the stock cluster uses for RPM. MPH should come from the transmission VSS.

It is, but things still go wrong sometimes. Thankfully, it's still usable by my standards, next video should be up in a day or two with details.

Absolutely they have, but I have never seen them heat set into plastic parts before. Typically heat set inserts are brass and can strip or cross thread so I didn't want to use those.

Whenever I've used them in wood I end up using the fastener on the opposite side to make sure they're fully seated.

New to 3D printing, not so much to furniture.

Just use the bolt to draw it in further by tightening the bolt. This is how it gets seated in wood, which is what these are really made for.

@dougsholly9323 there are similar ones that get heat pressed so it actually bonds with the plastic

Can add a nut to opposite side and tighten from.

It’s the idea that he is relating, there are numerous fasteners out there and as they make their way into the Additive Manufacturing / 3d printing industry, it’s eureka moments. which is why the trades need to share ideas.

Absolutely, they're not hard to find. I just haven't seen them used in printed parts before.

New to some, I've never seen it used in a printed part before. Just plywood parts.

It's an end piece for a rear wing that I'm building for my track car.

@slightedengineering Not one of those shopping cart handles people put on their Civic to make it look faster😉

Not quite. Plans are 74" wide and using a proven airfoil shape. Should be relatively effective.

There can always a better solution, but these are readily available and economical.