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Hey, There is no difference in performance as it was more of a regular maintenance thing for me. The best way for ECU is insulation and aluminium shield. You can wrap the whole thing up, but heat soak will get temperature up to the engine bay temperature. At least, there will be no direct heat blasting from the fan. Thank you for watching my videos.

Yeah…I took a look at it and decided not to do it myself. I could but I didn’t want to occupy my friend’s workshop for two days. I estimated 8hrs which is quite close to what you have done. It will be done at the previous authorized agent for Alfa Romeo. They still help service the old cars. Thank you for viewing my videos. Cheers vallentyn2007

@@elgdisco Can they still provide software updates?

Damn. Mine stil has the original pump. 2010 and 187.000 km.

No. Cut off from the Italian servers..

Hello Victor, It connects to your phone via Bluetooth then it sends a FM signal so that your FM radio can tune in to it. The transmitter allows you to set, say 99.9 Mhz. You can then tune in to 99.9 on your radio. Yes, so it plays through the car speakers. So find an unused frequency and set it for your own use. I bought a few to try the sound, this one sounds good and it charges my phones and gives me a voltage readout. So is 3-in-1 use, ranging from a few $ to $20-50. So buy what you need, on aliexpress is cheaper. Oh yes, you can also answer calls with it and the conversation comes through the car speakers. So that’s 4-in-1! Hope this helps. Thank you for watching! Please subscribe if you have not already. Cheers!

Hello MrAlfa155, If all your door locks are functioning well, then you may have an issue with the central lock computer module which is mounted on the inside of the driver’s door. You would see it in my video with wires connected to it, a plastic box. The temperature sensor is also connected to it. The outside temp sensor is located under the wing mirror. You can buy a new one to change it out, may need some soldering and removal of wing mirror. Do you have a OBD2 reader or scan tool that reads the Alfa 159? It would be best to find out if there are any fault codes on the Body Computer Module (BCM). Or you can try opening up the door panel and check all the connectors. Also spray WD-40 into the connectors. The door allows water to pass through inside so sometimes moisture may cause problems. Let me know how it works out. Thank you for viewing my videos. Do subscribe to help the channel. Thank you.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Good morning, I am running the novetic rear mufflers. The rest are original.

@@elgdisco okay thank you

Hello, Yes, I had a hairline crack on top of the fuel pump before. Changed it, but I didn't have the double crank issue.

Thanks bro, I have done all those before and they were quite recent. Will clean them on the next interval. But the MAF and throttle body clean seems to have solved the problem. I can start on the first crank now!

@@elgdisco Great.

Hello Fox, Yes, only in the morning cold start, the rest of the day is ok. The MAF and throttle body clean seems to have solved the problem! I can hear my fuel pump primed and stopped once it's ready so ain't really the problem. I have also checked my fuel pressure readings from the OBD2 which is also good.

@@elgdisco btw, what is the size of the 5-star torx? thanks.

It's TTS25 & TTS20. The two ends are different. But I used the bigger end so it should be TTS25

@@elgdisco Thanks for the info!

That's great David! Keep it clean

LOL, yes. It does have good induction sound. Going for open pot filter?

Good to hear. Small things makes a great difference!

@@davidBarrel What consumption did you have before and what do you have now? Mine does 12L/100km.

@@elgdisco do you notice any improvement on fuel consumption after the cleaning?

It's the same, I do a lot of city driving so not much difference for me

Hey bro, You might need better hoses. R9 would be good. Weather does play a part. The pressure of the high pressure fuel pump is 30bar on reading which is normal. So good hoses are important.

ua-cam.com/video/E51IWPbYo98/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared Try here. I didn't do a good video of my shocks replacement as I was not prepared well. I will try to go through my video files and edit some photos and videos. Maybe it will be better. Thank you so much for watching my videos!

Hi Paolo, They came with the key fob I bought. I have also took out the original one from my old key fob but very very carefully...lol I have seen them selling on AliExpress. You can try looking for them there. Thank you so much for watching my videos!

@ElginLim I already have a new key with the Alfa emblem but it doesn't look good... I'll look online to see if I can find anything... thanks

Hello, Thank you for watching my videos. I am glad I could help. Do try to get the best hoses possible. SAE R9 would be the best. The other part you can look at is the L-shape connector that is the quick coupling to the pipe. Sometimes they leak quite bad too.

@@elgdisco Thanks! I will remove and see where are the leaks this weekend.

It turn out to be the quick release plastic connector on the back has perished, the yellow puch button cracked once I push it in. I see you don't have one, may be I will just connect with the clip as per your method as I don't seems to be able to find the right replacement connector.

You can buy the connector coupling from aliexpress or Amazon. The internal size is 7.98 mm. Google fuel connector quick coupling 7.98, should pop up in the search @pingstudio8235

Hello, Thank you for watching my videos. A few things you can look at, First, the position sensors for the cams. They are located under the plastic cover near the fuel line side. Second, the cam phaser actuator solenoids. They help shift the cam phase like what people know as Vtec or VVTI. They are located inside under the engine cover together with the spark plugs and coil pack. Right on top of piston 1. There are two, intake and exhaust, same goes with the position sensors. Thirdly, could be a slag timing chain which causes the cams to be slightly out of phase. Most likely could be the second one, they could get clod up. If you are driving slowly, they don’t actuate, but when rev up high they will actuate to shift the cam phases. Change both and you will feel more power when you rev up. You can look for AC delco brand which are quite good.

I change this oil at least every 6 months or every 15,000 to 20,000km. It’s a very small reservoir so it gets dirty very fast. Thank you for watching my videos.

Like all robotised gearboxes, it has to be very well maintained. I have only did once full maintenance of all the seals and o-rings. The clutch actuator was also replaced with a new one. It has served me well since 6-7 years ago. I had it since it was 5 years old, now it is into its 14th year. They are very robust but oils have to be changed at least every 6 months and no later. Best is every 3 months. The gearbox itself is a standard manual transmission so every 2 years or 40k miles is alright. You take care of it, it takes care of you. But do find out more on spare parts availability. 159s and breras are going into the 20 year mark since it was last launch so do your homework. Cheers. Thank you for watching.

Woah… so dusty like that you also can see! They are quite loud from 2,500 rpm to 4500 rpm, from here up to rev limit it tapers off. But they sound very nice on cruising speeds. Measured at the inspection centre when getting it approved was around 86 db.

Yes. Brembo always fits better. But it is a little hard getting them here. Parts are cheap but shipping for discs are crazy expensive nowadays. So I decided to skim them first cos they are making noises and pads are old.

Yaaaa…. That’s what I was doing, took so long that my friend started to help me, he says I taking too long…lolol The threads are very dry, I am just afraid to strip the threads. I have removed them before and it was easy, maybe I didn’t lube the threads when I installed them back before. All is good, rear brakes feels better now especially when the handbrake is engaged.

Haha…great minds think alike!

@@elgdisco Yeah. Well, two days before you released the video, but in reality you did them first probably. :D

Thank you Peter!

Hello....hahahaha. Sometimes without music is seems dry. Will take your suggestion. Yes, the engine note is better. Thanks for watching my videos!

Hi Paolo, Thank you for watching my videos. The part I bought was a brand called Victor Reinz part number 81-33489-10. Google it and you should be able to find compatible brands too. The other part is the pulley that I pulled out. The rubber insert in the pulley will wear over time. So I suggest you change both together. The part is 537123424. I bought a OEM part from Dorman 594309. Hope this helps. Thank you again, please subscribe if you have not.😊

Thank you very much!

Hello there! Thank you for watching my videos. The oil I used for the selespeed system is Fuchs Titan CHF-11s, used to be called pentosin CHF-11s. You can also use this oil in the power steering system. There is not much you can do with the selespeed system other than sucking out the oil in the tank and topping it back up again as I have done in this video. It’s about 0.7L only. But I do recommend changing it every 6 months at the very least. The more comprehensive servicing will involve the main pump, the accumulator(the “black ball”), the clutch actuator and the transmission control module (TCM). All I have done before, but I didn’t start this channel then…lol When they come up again I will film the process. Meanwhile, please ask me more if you have any questions. Thank you for subscribing to my channel.

@@elgdisco I watched your video few times and according your recommendation in video did service on my selespeed. Here in Australia I used same power steering liquid for selespeed and for power steering. Drain old liquid and fill with new one. On small reservoir in front refill with brake fluid dot 5.1. But now have problem that my car needs more acceleration for starting in first gear and reverse. Going up to 3rpm and on selespeed reservoir seeing overflowing. Don't know what did wrong.

First and foremost, I must ask if your Selespeed system was working well before you did the oil changes? I do not know the condition of your car so it is very hard for me to deduce what is going on. Cos it has to be good before anything can be done to it. The Selespeed system has 2 reservoirs. One(CHF-11s)for the shifting system and one(DOT4) for the clutch actuator. The Selespeed oil is specific, either the original CS speed or CHF-11s, no other oils should be used. You cannot fully fill the Selespeed oil reservoir cos there will be some oil in the system and in the accumulator. When reached operating temperature, the oil will expand and reservior level will go up. There is a minimum level mark on the tank but no maximum level. I have been doing this for a long time so i know how much to fill up without overflowing once temp is reached. But if you are doing this for the first time, you will have to top up about 1cm pass the minimum level, run the car, then top up again if necessary. The engine rpm doesn’t affect the Selespeed oil level. The system should self prime to get rid of any air in the system. If your clutch is not biting well in first gear or from stationary, then you may have to get into the transmission module thru the OBD2 to do a clutch bleed and calibration. But this will need two things, an app called AlfaOBD installed in your phone and a OBD2 reader which connects to the app via Bluetooth. If you can’t do this, then going to a workshop that can read the Alfa systems will be good. 3 procedures need to be done. 1. Clutch bleed 2. Enable fine calibration 3. End of line service Do update me. The Selespeed oil reservoir should not have any bubbling coming out of the return pipe which is just in front of the tank. If there is, means your clutch actuator maybe on the way out.

Yes it is. Thank you!

Hi Rick! The cable comes with the door handle so i think there is no part number. One way for repair to use bicycle brake or derailer cables, where it can be cut to length and clamped with an aluminium end piece. I have done that with my snapped cable and it seems to work, but it is as a spare. I have not installed it. Thank you for viewing and for the questions. Cheers!

Hello FoxOkinawa, You cannot block off this hose, but you can do a Uturn pipe to attach to the return hose. Then block off the inlet and outlet hoses of the heater. BUT, the 159 has a climatic control to the aircon system, it takes the outside temperature and cabin temperature to regulate the aircon temperature. Stopping the flow of hot coolant may or may not affect the regulation of the temperature. One of my friends has done it in his car and reported that aircon is cooler. The coolant in the heater may have to be purge out as stagnant coolant may not be good for the heater in the long term. The ID of the hose is about 16 to 18mm. The original part has a plastic end which i have replace with a brass connector so it doesn’t fail over time. Whatever you do, please execute with care, the cooling system is a circuit so it cannot be just blocked off. Have to ensure flow. Thank you for viewing and questions. Cheers!

Yes, one side is bigger. The part fails mainly because it is very close to the exhaust so heat fatigue will kill it over time.

Hi 👋 It can be done. I think there are two ways. One is open up and put inside or those that is stuck outside. The issue is wiring inside. Have to solder or connect properly. I think there are some videos showing how it is done. Thank you for viewing my videos. Cheers!

Hello, If you can’t get R9, try to get as high of a rating as possible. I used R9 because it is meant for fuel injection and I didn’t want to have to do it again. I think at least R7(50psi) would be better. I got my R9 from eBay Uk, see if you can order from there. Please get good quality ones. It is a pain to have them burst while driving. Cheers! Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

It's the oil reservoir for the clutch pump. Thank you for watching.

What kms you used to change?

This should be done at least every 6 months. For myself, I change it every 15,000km

Same, this is the second one for me too. Thanks David! Hope you are well...

What you need to do? You can contact me via my IG account @elgdisco

You're welcome!

Yes, you should replace the blue O-rings and the plastic rings that are there too. The Teflon rings that are near the tip should be replaced too. There are repair kits available for sale online. Thanks for watching my videos!

I would go a step further to ultrasonic clean the injectors and change the micro filters. But I don't know what tools you have. What you have done is good.

Sorry. The video was corrupted. Couldn't upload.

@@elgdisco ok ,thanks

@@peterbrouwer8795 what do you need to know? Perhaps I could help.

the last step,,i can follow all what you did,,that is great, thx, but dont know what to do next next

@@peterbrouwer8795 After the black manifold is removed, you will see the fuel rail. You would have to remove the in/out pipes that are connected to the fuel rail. A tight fit but is doable. The fuel injectors will come out together with the fuel rail. Pull gently but firmly. Straight out. One or two injectors may get stuck in the engine but pull and twist to get them out. Reinstallation will be the reverse of taking out. But you will have to install the fuel injectors onto the rail and push the whole assembly back into the engine as a whole. Have to get everything align which is a bit of a pain. For the injectors themselves, You would have to buy the repair kit to change the blue O-rings, the plastic ring together with the O-rings and the Teflon ring at the tip of the injector. Please use clean engine oil to lube the blue O-rings so they slide in easily. You can watch videos for injectors change from Bosch. They have good videos. Hope this helps. Let me know

Yes. If it is very well maintained. Changing of the selespeed fluid and clutch fluid is a must minimum every 6 months. I did a change of seals and all the critical components. It has been 6-7 years now. There are 3 main parts to the selespeed system. All must work together including the clutch.

@@elgdisco Thanks for the advice much appreciated

Have replied you...

Hello, No, it is still inside the original air box, but if you strain your ears, there is still a slight induction sound.

Thank you Fox! Wishing you a very Happy Lunar Year! 身体健康，万事如意，龙年行大运！🍊🍊🧧🧧

You’re welcome! I have fun and me time as I fix my car.

Really? I have to find out more. I could have a Patreon account which I think will be easier but I want UA-cam to pay me for my content.

Hello again DCS, They are not the best but for their price, they do a decent job. Most important is, they don’t let water in and no fogging after a very wet drive. They fit well and no headaches so I would say they are quite ok. I would not be doing this if the seller has sent me the correct RHD model. If they did then you wouldn’t have a chance to watch this video 😂😂

@@elgdisco It took me months to find original fog lights. Finally I did in the UK, and they ended up being 5 times as much as Depo ones, but are worth it.

Yes, originals are the best. The beam is even and shines well.

I have been using Agip or Eni for the longest time. I think since the 90s and after I got the chance to distribute it. The I-sint series has a wide range, this one I am using is i-sint ms 5W-40 all fuels so it is good for petrol powered vehicles. Even if they are rated for very long interval oil changes, I still change my oils every 5000km. Something that I have done since I started driving. Singapore is mostly city traffic so it falls into the severe traffic conditions. So service intervals are half. Imagine your oil is like the vacuum bag, there is only so much capacity for it to hold contaminants. Even if the oil is good to run, too much contaminants will just go back into the engine especially if not running at optimum temperatures. So I save myself the headache.

Hello DCS, I have not remove it before. It should not be difficult but do find out if it need a gasket or just apply on like my older 146. I haven’t really look at where all the bolts are, sometimes they are one or two hidden in the gearbox side.