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Road to V11
United Kingdom
Приєднався 11 гру 2019
Join me on my journey towards climbing V11 outdoors!
For film making shooting and editing please send an email to fontano2011@hotmail.com
For film making shooting and editing please send an email to fontano2011@hotmail.com
We Climbed a ROCK in the Middle of the SEA – Here's How
#climbing #tradclimbing #oldmanofstoer #adventuretime #rockclimbing #outdoorlife
Hey, I'm Cris, and in this video, I'm taking you along on my journey to climb the legendary Old Man of Stoer-a sea stack off the coast of northern Scotland. After 15 years of climbing, I finally made the leap into trad climbing, and it’s been a wild ride.
This video is about how I went from focusing on bouldering and sport climbing to stepping way outside my comfort zone and learning trad climbing in the UK. I talk about my personal journey, the highs and lows of my climbing career, and how I ended up on the Old Man of Stoer, leading a pitch on one of the most exposed sea stacks in the world.
Along the way, you’ll get to see my progression, from getting some solid advice from my mentor Dave, to climbing at some of the best crags in the UK and Europe.
If you're into climbing or just love outdoor adventures, hit that like button and subscribe to support the channel for more content like this!
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:52 Climbing background
1:25 Moving countries and climbing industry
1:51 UK climbing scene
2:40 Switzerland trip
3:10 Sport climbing
4:15 Trad climbing apprenticeship
5:56 The Old Man Of Stoer?
6:38 Main difficulties
7:45 Can I lead a pitch in the sea stack?
8:16 First time in Northern Scotland
9:08 Main goal of the trip
10:15 First impressions of the Old Man of Stoer
11:00 First two pitches
12:04 My turn to lead
14:01 Harry leading the most exposed pitch
15:51 Rope drag on fourth pitch
16:31 Dave leading the final pitch
17:25 Topping out the Old Man of Stoer
17:58 Conclusion
18:31 Outro
Hey, I'm Cris, and in this video, I'm taking you along on my journey to climb the legendary Old Man of Stoer-a sea stack off the coast of northern Scotland. After 15 years of climbing, I finally made the leap into trad climbing, and it’s been a wild ride.
This video is about how I went from focusing on bouldering and sport climbing to stepping way outside my comfort zone and learning trad climbing in the UK. I talk about my personal journey, the highs and lows of my climbing career, and how I ended up on the Old Man of Stoer, leading a pitch on one of the most exposed sea stacks in the world.
Along the way, you’ll get to see my progression, from getting some solid advice from my mentor Dave, to climbing at some of the best crags in the UK and Europe.
If you're into climbing or just love outdoor adventures, hit that like button and subscribe to support the channel for more content like this!
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:52 Climbing background
1:25 Moving countries and climbing industry
1:51 UK climbing scene
2:40 Switzerland trip
3:10 Sport climbing
4:15 Trad climbing apprenticeship
5:56 The Old Man Of Stoer?
6:38 Main difficulties
7:45 Can I lead a pitch in the sea stack?
8:16 First time in Northern Scotland
9:08 Main goal of the trip
10:15 First impressions of the Old Man of Stoer
11:00 First two pitches
12:04 My turn to lead
14:01 Harry leading the most exposed pitch
15:51 Rope drag on fourth pitch
16:31 Dave leading the final pitch
17:25 Topping out the Old Man of Stoer
17:58 Conclusion
18:31 Outro
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You started two moves in 😢
Tip number 6: do yoga
Say Sike! Is one of my favorites. Especially at 40° to 50°
Lose the repetitious music!
I'm not a climbing coach and I could tell you all these things. Should I start charging people? Here is another Gullich quote you can have for free: "A man doesn't go to drink coffee after climbing, coffee is integral part of the climbing".
My goal for this year
One of the best for sure!😄
Ohh may god😢!!!
wow that's a crazy fall!
Hey there, this is a message for those of you who wonder what happened, I'm also attaching this video explanation: ua-cam.com/video/sqz_6CQT9F0/v-deo.html As I lost my grip, my leg went over the rope, causing me to flip upside down and I hit the wall with the right hand side of my body. I was very lucky to come out totally uninjured from it. I wasn't wearing a helmet, and this was extremely stupid of mine. I pretty much always wear a helmet when lead climbing, however, on this occasion I didn't. There's no excuse for ever not wearing one. I hope everyone stays safe! Thanks for watching.
Im short (166cm) and when i reached the top of the indoor bouldering gym i couldn't get back down because my feet and hands couldn't reach anything, so i fell all the way down and landed Spiderman style on the safety pad and now my left knee feels kinda weak and sore (it happened 2 days ago) I don't feel any pain so it will probably heal on it's own, but could what I've done.....give me any knee problems in the far or even near future? Did accidentally do any irreversible damage to my knees?
Hey, I'm sorry you had a bad fall. Best thing to do is to go see a professional, I'm afraid I cannot tell you how serious your injury is. I wish you a very speedy recovery!
@RoadtoV11 thanks 🙏🏻
As a passionate road cyclist that is just getting back into climbing, I am absolutely packing my bags and moving to Mallorca. Paradise.
It’s the place to be for cycling and climbing!
Well done mate
@@101deepak101 thanks!
That’s cool! Be safe boys
What do you do with your rope after you get down?
The way it’s set up, you only need to pull it down
@@RoadtoV11 Then wouldn't it come off while you are descending?
It doesn’t since it’s halved at the top and you are abseiling off from both ends. The rope doesn’t move until you pull from it, which you only do when the whole party is down.
@@RoadtoV11oh so one side can’t pull through because your weight is preventing it from happening?
Yeah, you’re descending through both sides of it, so the rope can’t move while you are abseiling
🐥😮🧸👏👏
Here’s how we got down for those of you wondering: ua-cam.com/users/shortsfbSuhUXl_rU?feature=share
I was wondering how you got down!! 😅
loved it!
I’m glad you did!
Really nicely done (the climb and the film). Stoer was one of my favourite adventures and I was lucky enough to climb the old man of Hoy the next year (highly recommended!)
@@largeformatlandscape thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it. Hoy is definitely in the bucket list!!
Yes, but how did you get down?! 😂 Really great short film, you can feel the honesty 🙂
Haha you just rappel off! Thanks guille!
Good question as that is one of the highlights of the climb as well. A free hanging 60m abseil into space, spinning around as you drop :-D I think the old man is a wonderful climb. I hope to do it again when it's less greasy at the bottom and top!
Here’s how: ‼️How Do You Get Down from THIS?? #shorts #climbing #adventure #rockclimb #rockclimbing ua-cam.com/users/shortsfbSuhUXl_rU?feature=share
Woah amaziiiiing!
wicked video!
@@oliviermassey6297 thanks!!
Wicked edit!
abeuhhh
Thanks!!
Loved the storytelling in this video and all the drone shots!
I’m glad you liked it!
That is an amazing film. Some of the prettiest shots I uave ever seen.
Thanks a lot!
@@RoadtoV11Man, these adventures must be way better than any V11
Hahah they’re a lot of fun yeah
Phatttt
Oso onaaaa!!!! Segi horrela eta eman gogor!!!! Besarkada handixe bat.
Eskerrikaskoooo😃
Amazing video 🎉
Thanks Garineh!
So epic!
awesome video :)
@@agario5161 thanks!!
Nice film ❤ if your London based and looking for v11 project, have you looked at forest rock cave. Many good v11s and perhaps one of the closest crags to London 😊
Thanks!!
This is incredibly well made! Loved every minute
Amazing!!!!you got It!!!! Crack 💪💪💪👏👏👏❤️
i ve ever seen
this is one of the best and most impresive videos.
When did you start working for National Geographic? Beautiful work Cris 👏
@@MiguelClimbs Hahah thanks a lot Miguel!
lovely story
Thanks!
If Pro-Climbers cant flash this V3 then its not a V3 lol.
I dropped off the top of the wall once as I didn't have the energy to downclimb, I was new and didn't know to roll onto my back, just thought I needed to land and kinda squat to absorb the force. I crunched my ankle and it's messed me up ever since.
@@andrew2272kag I’m sorry to hear this😔
👏👏👏 crack 🙆
I had my first fall last Saturday. I slipped, attempted to grab the next hold down, barn-doored then fell flat on my back at a slight twist and my neck snapped back…EVERYTHING WRONG 😅🤦🏼♀️ Fell about 5 feet. Took 2 days to be seen in A&E (not their fault they were inundated so told to go home Monday night and come back Tuesday). Thankfully no spinal damage, just a lot of muscle strain/internal bruising etc and a banging headache from whiplash…joy! The moral of the story…DON’T try to break a fall and DO try to tuck your neck in even if you feel you’re falling at speed and don’t have time, you more than likely do have time to adjust your position. Also, if you fall flat on your back GET CHECKED OUT even if it means two 11 hour waits in A&E or (if funds allow) a private xray/CT 😊 For reference this was my 5th climb. Over-ambitious beginner here!
I’m so sorry to hear this! I’m glad your spine is good though, hopefully you’re not too scared to try again. Perhaps try out autobelays, they are really good to build up your confidence.
@ thanks! I’ll get there I just hate having to take things easy haha I have no patience (adhd does that to you!) I’ll definitely ask to do the ropes induction at my gym to build back up. I was free climbing but think a belay will definitely help build my confidence again.
I just had my first injury falling, fracturing part of my ankle because it rolled with too much weight on it. I fell from the same height several times that day, but this fall was bad actually because I tried to climb back down without enough stamina. The downward momentum put too much strain on my arm and my hand let go. It was a surprise so I was unprepared for the fall and didn't land square on the mat. Falling on purpose is much better than trying to climb back down if you're out of stamina
I’m sorry that you hurt yourself, I hope you have a speedy recovery! ❤️🩹
@@AzarakiDragon aaaaaaaaggghhhh that sounds horrible! I did similar on a horse; I knew from how he took off to jump that I wouldn’t clear the poles and that I was going to come off. I should have let myself fall properly but nooooo I thought I could put my foot down and swing back into the saddle. I went one direction, my ankle and knee went in the opposite direction and I hear an almighty pop. I thought ehh my ankle just needs to click. Got back in, finished my lesson, drove home, did erands etc, went to get off the sofa at 11pm and couldn’t move 😂 Riding boots had prevented my ankle swelling but after X-rays in A&E it turns out I’d torn the ligaments behind my ankle bone. 6 weeks in a moon boot in the height of a heatwave 😂 This was 12 years ago and my ankle still clicks on demand 🤢
It depends on your weaknesses i think. If you are already strong and dont have good technique, it is 100% true, but if your limiting factor is strength, then it makes sense to train it right?
We all know it is. Just hop on the moonboard.
I take whatever board my gym is providing me. Who gives a rat's ass about indoor grades? 😅 The good thing is that the boulders stay forever and you can revisit them to track progress, no matter whether they are sandbagged or soft. And you can also keep it at 20° and define grimpy boulders using the foot screw-ins. I love the adjustable angle to work into climbs I'm not yet ready for. After mastering 20° less and working up slowly, I finally often can climb stuff that felt totally impossible at the beginning.
Moon board is the tool
@smugcoffee8090 might be, but that was not the question ;)
For me the crux of just play with fire 7b+ is the first move because you are not supposed to have a wall to push with your left foot which make it quite harder
very very good!!!!
What are the hardest moves equivalent to in Moonboard grades ? How many tries did it take you to send it?
Tops V3, second go
Looks really steep!
@@TheJZab it’s quite steep yeah but jugs all the way!
Congrats !
@@TheAletes thanks!
😢