Відео

I was recently gifted an Ender 3. I should have invested in a printer years ago.

I don't. But I made it in Unity using a Bluetooth LE plugin by Shatalmic, llc from the Unity Asset Store, which costs $20.

There's not much to say. It's a Ted Weber combo amp kit. Something mechanical was making a ringing noise, so I pulled out the chassis and dropped it in a box to make it a head/cab. But I have some mods in mind for it, and those might make it into a video.

I get the same errors. did you figure it out?

My guess is that a version is different somewhere. I was running Unity 2020.1.5f1, with Leap Motion Core v4.5.1. I believe you can find that version at github.com/ultraleap/UnityPlugin/releases. I don't have any plans to keep my project up to date with the latest plug-ins.

why not just use a servo?

@@alleninventions8315 On paper, a servo seems like a viable option. But in reality, there are many drawbacks to using a servo. If you meant an RC servo, your first hurdle would be to connect the servo arm or wheel to the potentiometer shaft. Secondly, the resolution is just not comparable with that of a stepper motor. I'm using 16 micro steps with a 200-step motor and with the TMC2130 stepper driver and its stealthChop option, it's virtually noise-free and very smooth. Another advantage is that power to the motor is cut after the desired position is reached, while a servo motor would be powered all the time and a servo is also known to "hunt" and buzz while standing still. It's just not a graceful enough solution compared to a stepper motor.

If your application does not allow calibrating stepper after power on, you need other way to figure out where you are. Dual pot is pretty solid solution for that. Other than that the stepper is good way to go if the resolution is enough. You can also switch off the power from the stepper after moment is finished, and then manual adjustment is possible straight from the pot. With DC motor or servo manual adjustment will be dragged by the gear mechanism.

Thanks!

Hope it works out!

Thanks for the tip!

A stepper motor could be a valid method for turning the pot. I wanted to use this in an application that allows people to still manually turn the knob for the pot, and feedback control solves the problem of knowing where the pot is set if it was manually turned or turned by the motor (see my robot guitar pedal video). When I was looking into it, stepper motors also tended to be more expensive and take more space than the little hobby motors I used.

I'm not sure I follow. The motors are driven by a voltage, but that voltage sets the speed at which they turn, not the position they go to. Then obviously there is the main potentiometer that you want to control. You can't use it for motor input because you can't assume a known reference voltage will be used across it. That's why we need a second pot - you can apply a known voltage across it, and read the voltage drop to know exactly where the whole assembly is positioned. Hope that makes sense.

This version doesn't actually use a Kinect or trig, but don't discount the power of feedback control. It's used all the time when people want to align something mechanical with a target. In fact, it would probably be a great solution for what you're proposing. Example - mount a camera on a pair of motors controlling x/y angle. Track a face that enters the frame, and use a feedback loop to control the motors and adjust the camera until the face is centered in the frame. Like I mentioned in your other comment, though, the Kinect's tracking falls apart with motion, so you'd need a better camera and tracking algorithm if you're moving the camera itself.

It's a good idea, but it won't work with the Kinect. At least in my experience, whenever the Kinect experiences motion, it loses person tracking. Sometimes, just the wobbles from the turret moving caused the Kinect to lose all tracking, and rotating the whole Kinect on a turret would do a lot more than that. Plus, the recoil would now be moving the Kinect, too, again affecting tracking. Overall, the Kinect doesn't have amazing resolution or framerate, so I suspect the motion blur is the root cause. I'm sure there are other tracking devices/cameras more suitable to that approach, though. But you'll actually still need to do some trig anyway if you want it to be accurate. It would be impossible to perfectly align the Kinect sensor with the gun barrel because they'd have to occupy the same space. You'd still need to put the gun above or below the Kinect. It might be a much more minimal offset, but still there - if the Kinect points to the heart, and the gun is mounted 2 inches above it, it will be pointing 2 inches above the heart. Trig would find the angle needed, at a given distance, to adjust 2 inches down. Another approach would be to mount your camera at a fixed angle relative to the gun barrel. This would account for the offset between the two, but only at a certain distance. This is similar how scopes, red dots, etc are zeroed on a rifle, so look into that for more info. And of course, none of this is really that important when you're using an inaccurate airsoft gun and your max distance is like 10 feet.

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Well, I don't know much about how PS4s work. As a general response, you'd need to know the protocol the PS4 controller uses to communicate with the PS4. Then you'd make a device that accepts keyboard/mouse input and outputs that protocol. Unfortunately I don't know how hard it would be to figure out that protocol and emulate it, but I imagine it's a lot harder than communicating with a PC. Sorry I don't have anything more specific than that to help. Good luck!

Unfortunately it won't work. The library I started from that makes the microcontroller look like a USB gamepad is specific to the Pro Trinket. If you can find a library that let's you write an HID descriptor for the Uno, you can probably get it working, but I don't know if such a library exists.

The Metro Mini is ATmega328-based, so yes, you can. Unless I misunderstood the question? Haha

​@@AllPartsCombinedI probably did the wrong question. I'm completely ignorant on this subject, but I really want to learn. This is what I'm thinking. I do have a 100% analog tube amp, with midi capabilities to switch relays. The guy who added the midi control said it's an Arduino unit type (maybe UNO?) using an ATMega168a. I was wondering if I can add your Motorized Potentiometer to this midi unit. What software do you use for programming?

I haven't done much more work on it, but I did use this design in my motorized guitar pedal. It's still underpowered, but it worked as a proof-of-concept. I'm sure there are more suitable motors out there if you're willing to put in the cash.

@@AllPartsCombined please suggest me some. I’m glad that your prototype is working. Nice effort

Sorry man, I don't have experience to know any particular motors that would be good for this. You'd want to look for a motor small enough for your application that emphasizes high torque rather than high rpm.

@@AllPartsCombined I might be way of here but i was thinking that you would want a high speed low torque motor, then you gear it down... a lot! And you gear it both ways, each gear has two gears, a small and a big one stacked, and they match eachother... like a rc servo is geared, that way the motor turns it easy, but it also turns easy from the potentiometer side... Im not sure of the rpm on the motor you used, but some of these small motors run at 20 000-30 000 rpm. So lets say it runs at 10 000rpm, you gear it down to 1/4 then you are still at 2500 rpm, which is waaaaay to much... that is like 40 rounds pr second, the motor will be struggling hard to be accurate turning the potentiometer just one round... Gear it down another 1/4, then the motor can turn the potentiometer at 10 rounds pr second, probably still to fast for a 10 000 rpm motor to work efficiency, how fast do you need the potentiometer to make a full turn? If you now ad a third reduction at 1/2, it would turn a 360 potentiometer one round at 0.2 seconds, maybe still to fast...? But with the right gearing you can use the motor to its potential, the weaker the torque the less current spikes, you could probably hold the motor back on the potentiometer or even turn it the opposite way without to severe of a current spike. But yeah, i don’t really know what im talking about and my math may be way of, i almost failed that class... 👀 Edit: or maybe use a stepper motor... Very interesting project!

0.003% to your own Paint Nog

Happy to help

Nice! Maybe one day I'll spend more time on aesthetics for my projects...

Go for it.

Once you connect the potentiometer to a circuit, it is going to have some voltage applied to it, which could be changing in the case of an AC signal. This is going to throw off the attempt at reading a known voltage to set the pot position. To solve this, you need a dedicated pot for feedback control. But check out the part 2 video - I switched to a dual gang pot to condense the design significantly.

Thanks!

Close, but not quite. What are you working on?

@@AllPartsCombined in my mind i want to create some way to turn the knobs(potentiometers) on a guitar amp remotely (via midi over bluetooth) and store them as presets that can be triggered thru a floor stomp … I guess I need to make a video explaining what I want to do

Awesome. If I can ever get this next project working and finish the video, it may be able to help you with that.

By the way, if you are making a motorized pot, be sure to check out my part 2 video if you haven't. I really streamlined the build in that iteration.

Hey man, took longer than I expected, but I finally got that video out - ua-cam.com/video/uZlBgybJNsA/v-deo.html Spoiler - I ended up dropping the Bluetooth feature, but hopefully there's still something in there that can help you if you're still working on your project.

There is a schematic at this link. It's hand drawn, but it's the best I've got. www.electromaker.io/project/view/snes-controller-usb-adapter

@@AllPartsCombined but it need account. But thanks to reply

It's a free site for browsing people's projects. But yeah, turns out you do need an account to download images.

@@AllPartsCombined can I able do this with Arduino nano?

I also added the project here, no account needed www.hackster.io/allpartscombined/snes-controller-usb-adapter-dfc577

Thanks for featuring it!

Thanks! Glad to hear it helped.

Haven't seen it, but yes, that would be an awesome build!

do you think it would be possible to use a CronusMax plus or Titan One on a SNES? ...... These type of adapter do Retro -> USB. Going USB -> retro is a little harder, I am unsure how to do this right now. do you have any idea ?

I don't know anything specific about those devices, but the basic idea would be to figure out how they communicate with the PC, build a device that intercepts that data, then shift it out to the SNES following the protocol on the video. Like you said, it's probably a lot harder to go that direction. Newer devices tend to have more complicated protocol.

There are now cheap ones on aliexpress, and I linked some 3rd party extenders in the description from Amazon. At the time I started this (a few years ago) I couldn't find replacement parts anywhere, but it looks like the market has picked up handily.

@@AllPartsCombined that's good, I just hate to see original hardware damaged, thank you for linking replacement ports

Hm, I don't know. The idea would be that you have an Arduino connected to the SNES and the controller, receiving the signals I was sending in this one. Then based on that timing protocol, you capture the button states and shift them out to the SNES. But I imaging capturing buttons is going to look different for different controllers, and I'm not really sure how you'd go about connecting the USB cable to the Arduino.

Yeah, one day.