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LA 3D Printer Repair
Приєднався 9 лют 2012
We fix 3D Printers!
OpenSCAD - Fusion3 F410 Pulley Retainer
I asked on Twitter (@la3dpr) if this might be interesting and someone said "maybe!" and I appreciate that kind of encouragement, so here we go.
I basically exclusively model in OpenSCAD and I've got a decent library of projects under my belt, it's not a "popular" tool, but it's one I've got some experience with.
As always, thanks for watching!
I basically exclusively model in OpenSCAD and I've got a decent library of projects under my belt, it's not a "popular" tool, but it's one I've got some experience with.
As always, thanks for watching!
Переглядів: 243
Відео
Prusa MK3S Heat Creep PTFE Swap
Переглядів 24 тис.4 роки тому
Filament *really* stuck, you may be dealing with the effects of heat creep - when the printer is shut off while hot and molten filament hardens in the PTFE throat in the cold-side of the hotend. Herein I will describe and demonstrate the procedure for swapping the PTFE liner in your hotend with a spare. Don't switch off your machine hot, ever; and this wont happen to you!
MMU2S Theory of Operation
Переглядів 30 тис.4 роки тому
After gaining some experience tuning the MMU2S, I decided to record this video detailing the usage of the MMU2S, the logic of it's operation, and troubleshooting when issues come up. Chapters: 00:00 Intro 00:45 MMU2S Hardware Review 03:54 Hardware: Buttons & LEDs 09:54 Hardware: MMU2S Extruder 11:00 Filament Loading & Unloading 18:56 Operational Fundamentals 22:41 Intermission 23:57 Basics of E...
MK3S Extruder Removal & Re-Installation
Переглядів 7 тис.4 роки тому
If you need an extruder repair, overhaul, or upgrade, reach out today at la3dpr.com; it's our job to ensure happy printers and enable skilled operators.
Prusa MK3S Operator Intro
Переглядів 6084 роки тому
Download & Print our Quick Ref here: la3dpr.com/files/Prusa_MK3/PrusaQuickRef.pdf I hope this is helpful for new operators, let me know if there's anything else that might be included in future versions.
Prusa Live Z Calibration and extra sheet setup (on newest firmwares)
Переглядів 47 тис.4 роки тому
Hope this is helpful if you accidentally run Cal XYZ or Wizard and now you can't get filament to adhere to the bed, and now you're stuck unable to print.
Prusa MK3S fixing stuck filament or bad unload
Переглядів 85 тис.4 роки тому
Filament breaks below the drive gears, now you're stuck, here's some tips to get you printing again.
MK3S Extruder Assembly & bonus wiring tip
Переглядів 1,7 тис.4 роки тому
Optimized MK3S Extruder Assembly
Blade Buster NES 629,500
Переглядів 2524 роки тому
We'll see how long this score holds. Recorded via VHS on a real NES running a ROM-hacked Shadowgate cart.
Cold Pull Procedure on Prusa MK3S
Переглядів 40 тис.4 роки тому
How to clear carbonized debris from the nozzle of a Prusa MK3S and aleviate inconsistent extrusion or clogs.
MMU2S on the bench & other machines
Переглядів 3 тис.5 років тому
Howdy to all the new subs, la3dpr.com is where to find us.
Prusa Powder Coated Beds, Insight and Alternative
Переглядів 2 тис.5 років тому
We've been running one of the eBay beds for a bit and we've seen more Official Prusa Powder Coated beds than most, so here's some insight.
Prusa MMU2S Extruder Preview
Переглядів 4,2 тис.5 років тому
Just a quick mockup assembly of the MMU2S Extruder variant parts included in the MK3S distribution, and speculation on new features and operational improvements.
Prusa MK3 Bed Thermistor Replacement
Переглядів 13 тис.5 років тому
Prusa MK3 Bed Thermistor Replacement
GameBoy Zero: Circuit Sword Final Assembly
Переглядів 4,4 тис.6 років тому
GameBoy Zero: Circuit Sword Final Assembly
GameBoy Zero Repair: Circuit Sword LCD Fix.
Переглядів 2856 років тому
GameBoy Zero Repair: Circuit Sword LCD Fix.
Gameboy Zero 3D Printed Parts Set for Kite’s Circuit Sword
Переглядів 3,5 тис.6 років тому
Gameboy Zero 3D Printed Parts Set for Kite’s Circuit Sword
Peach Tree Timelapse Feb 25th through Sept 4th 2017
Переглядів 8 тис.6 років тому
Peach Tree Timelapse Feb 25th through Sept 4th 2017
Sadly I cannot get the thermistor wire out of the ensi board. I contacted Prusa support and they suggested various ways to do so (needlenose plier). Eventually the safety clip sort of got stripped and now I have no clue how I'll get it out. Any advice?
I’d probably need to see a pic; send me a text. If you pull hard enough the whole header will slip off the soldered pins on the board and you can just pop it back on, no harm done. The thermistor “signal” is not polarized even if you did get it flipped around on reinstall it wouldn’t cause a problem.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair hi! thanks for your response. I sent you an email showing what it looks like....
Should have at least 100,000 views
7:43 Wow, I realize that's what happened to mine. Thanks to you for your video, you helped me find the problem and the reason. Note : it was a pre-assembled Prusa i3 MK3.
Thank you, this video saved me from panic disassembling the extruder! I totally forgot there were multiple hex keys in the assembly package and tried to fit in the one which I uses to loosen the extruder door. Luckily I was not forcing it too much, I could have break something. The smallest one fits. Since I was using PETG previously, I heated up the extruder to the preset for PC filament and with some force pushed the key into the tube. I actually didn't notice it going any further, but it did the trick because once I reasembled it, the gear could finally push the new filament into the hotend.
Super helpful. This worked for me. THANK YOU
Brooo, i haved this problem since 2 weeks, and now i could fix my prusa!!!! So much thanks for the tutorial🎉🎉
Thank you Lee, Very well explained, I like how you gave full description while dismantling while also mentioning screws sizes & lengths, this can be confusing. Well done.
Love this video, this help me fix my old printer that's been siting on a shelf for 2 years.
Thanks for video - it helped 💪
Time lapse video created by a retard apparently
I remember the era well. This is when you actually had to know something about operating systems and commit to memory how to use things. I still have my model 100 and an Apple II boxed up with all the peripherals with hundreds of programs with a 24 pin "Image Writer" color printer and a 6 color pen plotter.. Boots up in 3 or 4 seconds. I wish my Intel core I7 based computer would boot in 3 or 4 seconds !
Hello, I directly changed to atmega2560 and compiled the firmware from the Marlin-changes-for-einstart-s branch. After writing it, I cannot boot it and there is no response. What is the reason?
Great video, I'm new to Prusa stuff. I bought a used mk3s+(supposedly) and it came with an MMU2S. It's working fine for single colors and I did not know the Prusa slicing software can stop in the middle of a print so you can change colors, that's super cool. How can I tell if the MMu2s is actually a 2s? Also Your setup has an ir sensor contraption sitting on top of the extruder. Does that come with the MMu2s? mine doesn't have that. What exactly is that part called so I can try to find one, since it looks like it's needed for reliable operation. Thank you for any information.
Hi Tony, maybe reach out directly to get some clarifications; then you can send me some pics and I can figure out what specifically you've got there.
How do you calibrate the panda sensor height. Mine got loose so it is out of cal?
Follow “Preflight” steps in the assembly manual. 👍🏻
I WOULD BE OFFENDED IFJOE FRIDAY DID NOT MAKE ME LAUGH
Thank you for posting this!
Ummmm thanks, but that didn’t explain how to replace the extruder motor at all. All you did was tell me how to remove the head and send it in for someone else to do it
There’s likely nothing wrong with your extruder motor; maybe consult a professional if you’re on that track. 🤔👍🏻
@@LA3DPrinterRepair it stopped midprint right at the beginning. Nothing wrong with any connections. The motor does not turn at all. It wasn’t stuck, it just doesn’t move. The machine has been off for a few days, so it wasn’t overheating.
@@jaymuffinzcan you twist the shaft by hand? If not or it feels rough/hard to turn then it’s motor bearings; that can happen but it’s still very very rare compared to anything else that can go wrong up there. Let me know, we can “rebuild” it with fresh bearings if you want a spare on-hand. 👍🏻
@@LA3DPrinterRepair nope, the shaft is locked
Thank you, I thought I had lost a print entirely during a planned filament swap but the hex key trick was able to finally push that stubborn stuck filament back out the other end. I was so worried because I thought the revo hot end couldn't have this happen and I would hate to disassemble my hot end again...
Thanks for this! One thing I'd like to add (at least in my case): double check the gear held onto the extruder motor - the grub screw on mine was loose and I likely wouldn't have noticed except the gear slipped off the end of the motor shaft while i was removing the motor. Good time to check/realign/tighten the gear while it's this far disassembled.
Thanks, that was worth my 30 hours of frustration learning by experience.
@LA3DPrinterRepair Any chance of an MMU3 version of this incredible video tutorial and user resource?
I would like to see a ytp on Perry Mason.
I just bought one i can't wait for it to come in
the mmu 2 & ercf seem over complicated ... and complication leads to poor reliability. i cant help but feel re-purposing the 4 stepper motors involved here into 4 bowden extrudes with a 4 to 1 mixer would simplify things immensely.
You just described the original MMU...
Thanks man I unfortunately let this shitty ass filament dry in my hotend. Was able to fix it thanks to you.
Saved me after a 15hr print, needed 100grams more to go when the spool ran out. Tried to feed the new one in and i was on this exact scenario! Thank you, its back up and finishing 😅
Life saver. Thanks.
Great video! Quick question... Did anyone get a printed manual/assembly instruction book with their MMU2? Mine didn't come with one and support said they didn't have any books left and they wouldn't print more as they didn't plan on making anymore MMU2's (they said this while they were still selling them from their website and before they made it public about discontinuing MMU2) They also said it really wasn't for anyone who wasn't very tech savvy as it had lots of issues. Direct from Prusa support!
Thank you so much this helped me. It was clear and to the point.
Great video! thanks for the step-by-step guide.
Thank you this was so simple and such a life saver!
goat
Great video! Amazing how much of that I DID NOT KNOW when I had the machine decades ago. Thanks for the video!
Shoutout for still one of the best YTP I’ve seen even years later. As a cop I think about this at every collision.
This was the most helpful video for the problem I was having. As it wound up the filament had broken and bent sideways. I couldn't heat it and pull the filament out. When I opened up the feeder, I saw the problem cleared it and now everything is working perfectly. Thank You!
This fixed my issue - THANKS!!
my tpu is stuck so i could just wiggel it ;)
helped a lot
Long shot commenting on this video 3 years late, but do you know if anybody has beaten this score and recorded it? So far this is the highest 2 min score I’ve been able to find video proof of
I hold the 2min WR AFAIK; by the time I posted the score to the shmups forum it was already mostly abandoned…
Why is there no love button?
thanks a lot, you saved me ^^ I was already in a panic because I had to change the tube inside... but the problem was solved!
FYI four years ago in Summer 2019, I did a DIY Arcade Spinner using a Chinese optical rotary encoder and Arduino Pro Micro MCU/AVR "Micro-controller". It can be found on git-hub pages, craigb-spinner, for Arcade-Spinner. December 2022, I posted modded software, vari-SpinSpeed, from original Spinner 600ppr x4 Quadrature output with LSR (/2) to work as a 1200ppr device. Same adjusted output as a Turbo twist. The software also includes a routine to do a "divide function" as fast as possible without using Arduino pre-built math library for divides as AVR do not support hardware divides. If you read in the community the software divide is somewhere 300 clock cycles but a subtract 5-10 cycles. Division is subtraction until remainder is larger than divisor. You move the quotient to the mouse movement. Since you don't spin the spinner in hyper mode, the dyi function works great as you should not exceed 3-4 mouse pixels. You will need two buttons to adjust the spinner sensitivity and the Pro Micro outputs a USB mouse HID device as either x or y. Divide is from 2 to 50. You may want to add 1 function back in for the Turbo Twist with skip divide logic when divisor equals one. I was going to add in a pre-doubler (LSL x2) to add a 1/2 divide feature. Divide: / 3 x 2 = 1.5, / 4 x 2 = 2.0, / 5 x 2 = 2.5 some games require more precision earlier on.
I broke that little black clip/collar holding the ptfe tube to the hot end What’s it called and where do i buy one
www.filastruder.com/products/bowden-couplings-all-types?_pos=3&_sid=d1e8cfb5a&_ss=r&variant=32354109764 Bowden Coupling, PTFE Collet.
Thanks for the video. I recently had my first stuck filament and ended up using the supplied needle nose plyers to work it up and out. After getting the filament out I recut it at 45 degrees passed the stripped filament area and then reloaded it. There was a nice blob that extruded before it went back to being smooth, obviously my problem. Did a test print and good to go again. The other videos I watched had the basic "heat, unload, reload" which didn't work. 3 years later and your video is still saving people from a headache, much appreciated. PS. I really enjoyed your initial comment basically saying, "It doesn't matter how we got here, but we are here." Made me laugh out loud because it is so true.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair I don’t know if you remember what to do but my spring fell out well fixing it and don’t remember where that goes can you please help me know where it goes
Baa-loney. Scotch Brite is a band aid. Problem is signal wire connection at the nozzle/heater. I fixed that and my Taz 6 does its leveling/cal routine without any problems. I know it is a pain when leveling fails, I struggled with it for a long time, but after I fixed that wire connection kicking off a print is automatic. Hate to hear anyone trash the Taz 6, it is a good machine.
I watch this with my coworkers once a week, all time classic YTP
Prusa should have released this quality video, excellent explanations, thank you
>.> Am I dumb or is he not saying instuctions for all the steps? Flying through those options like its a speed run...on a tutorial video. Really?
thanks mate, you helped me fix my issue. I use a metal skewer, worked a treat