Відео

You know I got so carried away on other projects. I forgot to make part 2. There was some lost footage unfortunately. I’m trying to get back but the end result was a CGC conserved 3.5. I’ll try to put something together after the collectors summit in Dallas this weekend.

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Thank you Doctor! Go big or go home! 😎

Thank you for your kind words, Professor! The double sided leaf casting is going to be a normal thing for me. I think I like the way it comes out plus the extra strength.

@@FlyingLComics really makes a difference! There’s no reason why we do some of our leaf casting on one side. You get far better support and more H bonding points with the wrap. Then add to that aesthetic blending. I had no concerns in the past to the amount of pulp though, and now I do. Very much needed. Thanks for this.

Yes, happy with the results!

U laminated covers are hard to clean.Laminated covers Should resist water damage.Unlaminated should clean with erasor with patience.

No, I did not know what formation aid was until I actually watched your channel professor! I do use it now however in this video is one of the originals. It was just paper pulp with no additive, just paper and calcium hydroxide mixture.

@@FlyingLComics that works well also. Did for me for years just filtering the pulp but now that I use FA, there's no going back, especially with the high end and difficult fibers!

With the detached cover and missing staple I would still put at a 4.0. The rest of the book was quite nice. I replaced a period correct replacement staple. Definitely happy with the grade

The CH is just a ph buffer. The valve turned out to be unnecessary as a vacuum control. I just use it as a fluid drain now. The shop vac I use is a variable speed type so I control it from there 😎

Thank you Dr Paul! 😎

Thanks Jerry! 🙏

Thank you Don! Trying to do next level stuff 🤞

Allan, here is the link: www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2PHHWV/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_9WZW7MK0MR7SWR6ES1QX?linkCode=ml2&tag=johnllittlepa-20

Glad you liked it!

I did. But there was some technical errors on my part. The interior pages were not cleaned to match the cover so there is a stark contrast between the two so it’s been removed from its slab and put back into my project pile where I will go ahead and do proper tear seals and clean the rest of the book before resubmission.

Thank you! It’s only expensive in the matter of time. I build my own equipment to do the process. Leaf casting is an art that I’m still learning. 🤗

@@FlyingLComics I was thinking paper and chemicals and buying a press etc lol even paper roll for drying if you use enough of it!!

Of course, Jerry! I speak the truth, because you really were inspiration for me to get started in this field! Thank you!

Sizing is used during the paper manufacturing process to help the ink adhere to the paper without smudging or running. It’s also used to give stiffness to the paper. I.e. a napkin versus printer paper. Generally, when it gets damp or wet, the water will very slowly soak in or it will even bead up. As a non-chemist I can’t really speak to how the sizing would leave the paper other than personal experience from wet wraps. I suspect that general oxidation of the paper itself over time. But once that sizing is out and you have that floppy paper, there’s a high probability of ink particles leaving the paper once you get it wet. Silver Age DC books are notorious for this. Paper can be resized, but it’s a bit complicated. I’ve done it on a few books, but by no means have I mastered it yet.

Well, that is what is known as a “married” book. The wraps were not manufactured together. It would have different print marks and positioning as well as staple holes so if you were looking to get it graded, it would come back as a green qualified label. If you want universal blue or conserved grey labels, you have to go with the original pages.

Thank you Professor! And Benny Hill is my goto music when I speed up the video! I loved that show when I was a kid!

Thanks this comic book as well as many others from the 1940s got absorbed into the comic book monsters of today DC and Marvel. This is a fairly rare book. There are only 20 of them on the CGC census and they’re a bit on the pricey side so hopefully this will come out nice when it’s done

The method I used is complicated and dangerous. I actually would now recommend using Evapo-rust. Less toxic and not flammable. Use a q-tip and some blotting paper. Cheers 😎

Hi and thank you. The easiest way to reach me is at flyinglcomics@icloud.com

Thanks Peter! I think that’s exactly what I’m going to do. I think the remarks in the notes were incorrect.

Thank you, Dr. Paul. I’m hopefully going to be turning out more content soon!

Thank you Peter! It is already back from CGC! I'll reveal it in the next video!

@@FlyingLComics wonderful!

One of my favorite golden age Batmans. In fact I have a .5 graded in a CGC slab that needs a little TLC. Look forward to the results.

@@jerrythejitterbugcomicbook4098 thanks Jerry! Yeah, this is something I just couldn’t pass on as a project. I just felt the need to take a crack at it.

I almost exclusively use 5 g/m² tengoju paper

@@FlyingLComics Awesome, thanks. Do you have a video where you go over the specs of the remay or hollytex you use as well? Any affiliate links to help you out? I need to pick some materials up!

@@binkysphinx I only use hollytex and I get that from museum services corporation. museumservicescorporation.com/products/hollytex-type-3257?variant=43055776268487

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking! Everybody wanted Stan Lee’s signature.

Thank you Dr. Paul

Thank you, Peter. Yeah, I was hoping to get a winner out of these for that set that I picked up. Looks like it came through.

@@FlyingLComics totally scored big!

Leaf casting seems to be a hot topic right now and I don’t have the capital to drop $5-$10K on a machine that I would use very infrequently. So I set about inventing one that was cost-effective. So for about $300, I was successful but now I have the training wheels on to learn how to actually do the process and it is an art form. Kenny Sanderson is the master. I wish I could do that type of work, but he actually has the proper machine for it.

Hey Travis! I actually shot one of my video series at the heat press but I can’t remember which one it is lol but now that I’ve gotten into leaf casting I think it’s time to make a new video to show how I rapidly dry my wet wraps in the press. I’ll see if I can put something together. I don’t think I’ll release it on UA-cam, but I’ll release it to the group on Facebook.

Ouch! The only thing I know to remove cigarettes stains would be hydrogen peroxide which acts as a catalyzing agent and then place it under a 450nm blue LED. That should whiten everything up.

@@FlyingLComics 1st time i've gotten any idea on how to clean these up. I will give it a try. Thank you so much.

If you don’t have the blue LED already look on Amazon and they have one listed under grow light, but it must be pure blue no ultraviolet so you’re looking for something in the 440 to the 460 nm range. Hydrogen peroxide by itself Won’t really do much you’re going to need that blue light

Me too! 🤞

Thank you Dr. Paul!

Many thanks!

Thank you Peter! 😃

Hi Bill, I get my paper from a company called Washi Arts 👍