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I’ve noticed oil drops fro my 503 carburetor filter after I fly ,what could that means ?

I’ve noticed oil drips from the carburetor oil filter after the flight,what could that be ?

Knowledge is power; thank you very much.

My guess would have been that they were off a Lazair, they are a little bit big for a CriCri!

Plz ans me

I like u fule gaga sence

Fule gaga sence 375mm ok how much Pakistan money price

Great vid. Thank you for taking time to make this.

Thanks for the information John

Thanks John. That's a nice little tool and your explanation was perfect. You just got a new subscriber from Brazil. 👍

The only caveat I would provide is that to do the repair you are actually removing material. Depending on how badly the cylinder head has been cross threaded, isn’t it possible that the repair could result in the plug not being able to be torqued properly? I had a repair done on my 503 by a technician for the same reason and even though I could torque the plug it came out in flight. I ended up replacing the cylinder head.

Really interesting tool there, John - never seen one of those before. Thanks for sharing. 🙂👍

The real problem is when you get resistance putting a spark plug in, and just grab a wrench and force it in all the way. Someone who does that, deserves the cost of repairs. Great video as always. Cheers from Winnipeg.

YES that is a really cool tool. THANKS.

Never seen one of these tools. Volkswagen beatles used to give me spark plug thread problems. I always used a thread chaser in all cylinder holes needed or not before installing new plug just to be safe. This actually straightens the damaged metal. Very cool. Just learned something useful here - not just for rotax either. Cheers. 👍

Great to know, Thx John

Useful information as always! Neat technique!

Thanks John for your time in trying to educate us , Great video

Thx John, this is another eye opener.

Good job

Have you done any videos on repairing and/or replacing the banjo check valves on the oil injected Rotax engines?

The old oil looks pretty clean, making me wonder if changing the oil is necessary.

How is this not an airworthiness directive for inspection??

Thanks for the warning. Ethanol does dissolve many plastics but that is not the only problem with fuel that contains ethanol. Ethanol will absorb water from the air and form an ethanol-water solution. If that is exposed to the air it will absorb acetobacter which will convert the ethanol into ethanoic acid. That acid will then react with most common metals like aluminum to form salts. This causes pitting and will leave small crystals where the metal used to be. One way to prevent problems is to drain the fuel completely after every use. The other alternative is to remove the ethanol. If the fuel is agitated with water the ethanol will move into the water. IF the water is then decanted the remaining fuel will be ethanol-free. There is no simple solution to this problem as long as goverments continue to mandate ethanol in the fuel.

John! I love your insight and videos! How much for a tank?!!!! $$$

Great video John. I have the same tank. Looked good when I got the plane in 2022. Only ran Esso 94 or 91, which then was still ethanol free. By 2023 the ability to find the ethanol free gas was getting harder, and by the end of 2023, I do not think anyone was advertising ethanol free in Ontario, but some may differ. Our local station uses Esso 91, I tested it, and it definately has ethanol. My filler tube had an issue last fall, collapsed on itself. After several attempts to fix I finally Sealed (sealall) it to the filler hose, (which originally was just radiator hose) which was gas rated. Have not had a problem with that since. As for the tank, I do not remember discolouration when I got the bird, but now it has a mottled appearance. I will see if I can find some pics from 2022. I have not noticed a problem with discolouration in the gas, or the filter, but I pulled most of the gas out when it did not fly for a few months. As for carbon buildup, when I pulled the engine for its 150 hour, the piston tops were black, the lower rings locked in solid with carbon, and the upper rings half locked. I wrote that off to 1/ its first 40 hours it ran rich due to the carb needles put on top of the white plastic slide (before I bought it). 2/ my last 1.5 hours running were tethered trying to sort a charging issue with most of that time running at 3k rpm. Perhaps the resin in the fuel was a contributor. We tore the engine down to the crank, and notice no other issues as you described, nothing of note on the piston sides below the rings, and no resin building on the crank or anywhere else. I had ordered a tank in the fall when I had the issue with the neck, but it never did get shipped, and I didnt push it as the replacement likely meant moving the fill point and other hassles. Flying "on condition" keeping an eye on it. Also considering switching to wing tanks. Great video again.

What is your opinion on using 100LL in a 503 or 582?

Looks like the epoxy is failing, resulting in delamination.

More signs that the governments all around the world are out to kill us with the senseless climate crap.

Good info 👍

What about the plastic 10 gallon tanks? Are they affected by the ethanol?

I fly a 503 and I currently buy ethynyl-free fuel. E10 85 octane is OK to burn in my Rotax engine?

use vinyl ester resin.

Ceramic scraper or plastic utility cover plate works as well 11:49

Once all that cleaning and such is done. What 2 stroke oil would be best for engine protection, where the engine has oil injection. I keep getting all sorts of advice from people who I'm sure mean well, but coming from someone who rebuilds engines and knows what does the least damage is my preferred source of information. I do have a feeling that this may be a bit of a controversial topic, kind of like which beer is best for a summer time BBQ. Cheers from Winnipeg.

Thanks John. Good episode. A couple of questions: What's your take on vapor blasting? I'm not sure what the medium is but I hear good thinks about it! What do you do when the guy before you has not been as diligent and surfaces are scratched up? CHEERS!

Thank you so much! For some reason, despite having a 20# box of crushed walnut shells sitting Bach in the shop for 6-7 years, I’ve never used them nor I have thought to use them to lean case halves. Betcha I do next time. We so appreciate your videos and the information you share. Thank you so Much!,

Thank you for sharing all the information you do. Very informative and helpful. I have great success using starting fluid and a paper towel to get most sealants off aluminum components. It's a little slower but it does work if u don't have a walnut blaster. It just simply melts the sealant and it usually just sorta rolls off. Then go back with brake cleaner to prep for final assembly. Now I will say that all starting fluid is not the same. The key is the ones with the highest either content. Over the past few decades the either content has been lowered across the board for safety and environmental concerns I'm sure. Diesel fuel or kerosene ( which is almost identical) works great also but just messy to deal with. Now I'm not suggesting anyone try any of this. But it does work and we've been doing it for ever around here. Another option for someone is to just take the part to their local engine shop and have them clean it. The main goal, as you pointed out, is to get the part absolutely clean and oil free with no scratches. Anyway, thanks again for sharing your expertise.

Thanks, John - another very interesting watch. 🙂

I love your videos John! Thanks for doing them!!

It is possible to change the seal withaout open the motor???

Dear Mr. Baker: I have been a mechanics enthusiast since I was old enough to hold a screwdriver in my hand. I am old school, I have learned from the experience and advice that great engine professionals have given me over the years in their workshops. Then UA-cam arrived and my mechanic friends could take a break from a nosy parker customer. I want to thank you for your great work on the channel. You remind me of that time when I visited workshops trying to fight my ignorance. Also, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge altruistically, that says many nice things about you. Some tips and tricks I've seen are the best I've heard since the invention of the wheel... -the carpenter's pencil is my favorite-. I have a 377, 532 - that contact points give me a lot of trouble, anyway is a challenge - and my favorite 582/90... just for the love of old school ROTAX engines. I'd like to commend you for the effort you've put into your project. Congratulations Mr Baker! God bless you!

How would I go about adding a fuel gauge to duals tank set up

Can you also show how to adjust contact points

Anyways learning. So good to know how it's done properly.

Great video. How do you ensure the case halves are smooth? No burrs etc

Has been a while I commented, so I thought I leave one under this video - as always very good work and thanks for the videos and sharing your experience and knowledge, John, all of this is a very valuable additon to the Rotax engine community. Have a good one!

Good Episode. THANKS

Do you have any recommended 2 stroke oil for use in the 503? One that is available at most retailers? Something that is best for engine life, and minimal fouling.

Hello your videos are so informative I'm commissioning my first Rotax engine,,can you advise please, what type of wire should I use to wire the CHT and EGT sensor wires back to my cockpit pannel please?