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Thanks, I use PLA Plus. there are a few Pla plus filaments that are many, many times stronger than the old PLA. They do Ok outdoors as long as you are using them and they don't sit in one spot for too long. Store them in the shade. The sun will eventually melt them.

@@RockyTop_BC Thank you for advice man 🙂

Disappointed?... No you are not the only person. You are actually the second person to mention this in the 5 videos. As the designer will take that as a complement. 😊

@@RockyTop_BC photographer for the thumbnail, too. Amazing macro shot to make it look full sized

Thanks! 1/6 scale! It is fun to see what people do with the models. They usually make the look better than mine.

@@RockyTop_BC I like your models. In 1/6 I took the main housing apart and printed it individually with scale 1/14 m2 screws and I also had to change the suspension which made it very soft (adjustable).

Thanks and you’re welcome! I enjoy the challenge.

Sorry for the confusion. There are two styles of transmissions you can use. The standard printed gear or the cheater metal gear. You must have printed the cheater. If you look in the parts files you will see two 019BodyCentetLower one after the other.

@@RockyTop_BC Thanks for the quick reply. See it now. Focus, focus, focus!!! Even though no water ways nearby will be trying the BIG CHILL next. Have Thumper, Camper, Trailer and finishing Morrigan. Will try to send some pics if I ever take time to figure out how to get them on the site. Having too much fun building. Thanks again

Thank you. FYI, It looks like most people like the rear slides with the fins found at the bottom of the parts page. It is fairly easy to swap them out if you have a hard time keeping the boat straight. I have not needed them but If your weight or friction is better than my boat you might.

I hated those grumpy old snapping turtles. I guess if I had to live 100 years as a turtle I would be a bit snappy to.

You are too kind! Thanks

LOL! You don't here those words very often! Thanks!

Enjoy! First, I would secure the 0.5M 24T - 4mm bore Bevel gears. They usually take 2 weeks or longer to get.

@@RockyTop_BC tks for advice...

Thanks!, I enjoy designing. I have already started organizing the trailer files. I won't get much done in May though. It should be ready end of June or maybe sooner.

¡Muy bien! De nada

A Prusa mk3s+ with 1000 days continues print time.. Prusa and Bambu print very accurate. Creality printers need a lot of adjustment to get them right. See the video on most of my Printable build pages for horizontal expansion. ua-cam.com/video/NSCRJb2Al9w/v-deo.html

@@RockyTop_BC i went and tried about 5 minutes if that and my mind blew up....like i was saying before im about like half the people out there i wanna take a file hit print and go...unless i wanna change something and then knowing what i do and can do in the cura then id ask someone like u...lol...but had this ender 6 years and have been 1000's of spools my self...but i think i wanna get a new one ,but also dont want to get basically same thing and same issue,been asking about the prusa ones..i want like a multicolor one with like 3-4 colors at once...well the wife really does..but im the main user...she just wants things printed....ive been wanted a laser engraver as well...maybe a small cnc...but learning slow

@@joshengland5251 Both Prusa and Bambu are dependable very accurate out of the box. If you have years working on a Crealitiy printer I would go with the Bambu. The Prusa might be just a little more dependable but if you can keep a Creality running Bambu will be easy. Bambu gives you more for the money. If You were not interested in color change I might lean back to Prusa. Either way those are the two best in my book.

My biggest concern at 97% would be the battery slot in rear hull. Will the battery fit? You might get away with making just the one cage section 97%. If you are having trouble with the cage you might also have trouble with the hull sections at 100%? Please let me know if it works. - Thanks, Just a Black Crow in flight enjoying life. Doing hobbies with people you care about is one of the better things in life. I remember when Sunday was hobby day. Models, kites and bikes with my grandfather. Swamp buggies, wine and bang bangs with my Dad. The videos were filmed on one of may creeks nearby in southern Tennessee. They are referred to as blue holes. Creeks suitable for swimming.

@@RockyTop_BC i tried with the first xage part first and tried turning,flipping over,and nothing would fit on my printer,so then made it smaller till it fit and 97.86%was the biggest,so went with 97..trying to decide on a bigger build plate one but dont know which is best yet....and i will totally show of ur great creation with this...like i said i have the endless mind for the designing stuff just dont understand the drawing software...to many options..and those waterways are really cool...never heard those names ,im located just a few states north of u,im from michigan city,indiana up close by chicago and lake michigan...its like a stones throw from me..but also the 2nd deadlist of the great lakes and yea ill stay out with my boats...

Printables.com Late April or early May

The outboard is 3D printed. It uses 4mm brass bevel gears a.co/d/9q1uRk4 4mm bushings a.co/d/89qgFfE 5mm to 4mm universal a.co/d/2rGrqLT and a D3542 motor ( prototype 1000kv testing 1450kv with smaller prop.)

Well? About half the parts on the trailer are the same. It is not an easy switch

@@RockyTop_BC I've only done the frame and the middle rails

Thank you! I have thought about doing that and it is a great idea. I wish the process was more explainable. I am kind of a controlled chaos person when it comes to designing. My best advice would be to learn the basics very well. The better you know the rules the more you can push the limits. … I just don’t think I have the personality for that kind or video.

Your wish is my command! Outboard boat just finished prototyping today. It is in the part proofing stage. Next reprint and video making. Just remember, I am like that genie that never gets your wish right. (Cue sinister laughter)

@@RockyTop_BC you are amazing 👏 🤩 lol

It sounds like the pinion gear is too far inward. Make sure the bearing seat is clean and then make sure the bearings is pressed all the way in. There should be .5mm play in and out. A shim on the outside may also be used to pull the pinion gear outward. Direction issue - If the axle goes the wrong direction it is upside down. Flipping an axle changes the direction of travel.

Sorry for loosing your question earlier. When you say too small, are you saying that the wide wheels are too narrow or the bead is not sliding into the internal locker? I can make the wheel wider or the internal locker narrower. Sometimes you have to work the bead into the locker. Sometimes the foam is too large. Sometimes I have to trim the edges of the foam. Also it would help me if I knew what brand tires you have. If you have the hobbypark 45 120 tires it is all about getting the beads in the groove of the internal lockers. Let me know and I can make adjustments for you.

@@RockyTop_BC some Super $wampers off amazon, i just have to pitch the two sides together REAL hard and get the screws started lol. its working okay for now! love this jeep!!! im ready to print more of your awesome files!! any big projects coming out for 2024 ? :D

@@ChampTruex Great! and thanks! If the wheels become a problem let me know and I will make an adjustment. So far this year I have been working on improving existing models. I have the new metal gear transmission coming out this month for Thumper and the Morrigan. The new B540 transmission with a Fusion SE 1,200kv motor makes a sweet setup. I am working on a "fast car" a "slow boat" and a project that is pushing my limits. Timelines are difficult to predict before I have the finished prototype.

Hello, The Thumper and Morrigan share the same transmission. The transmission parts are on the transmission page. www.printables.com/model/356820-thumpers-and-morrigans-transmission-shop-for-18-sc

@@RockyTop_BC Thanks. But what about tranmission shafts and differentials? Sorry for all the questions , new to RC cars. More a RC plane guy.

@@jnmar No problem. The parts lists and screw lists are on the detail page of the listing under the videos. Also watching the before you build video helps. You can find the parts on Amazon or hobby shops. The axle gears (differentials) are AR44. If you look up AR44 gears on amazon you will find the gears. The axles are SCX10. The transmission rods are 5mm brass rods. Bearings: the first number is the inside dimension, the second is the outside dimension and the third is the thickness. If you type 5x11x4 bearing in the amazon search the bearings should pop up. The assembly videos are step by step.

Link updated in description

@@RockyTop_BCthanks for the update

I do not think it can be scaled down. The Cura and Prusa Slicer say that it can be printer on an Ender 3 if you turn off brim and skirt. What part or parts are you having trouble with? The cage or the Hull sections? I can make the cage two part if needed

I cut the cage into two parts to make it easier to print. 09Cage2Part1 and 09Cage2Part2 They connect with two M3 x 10mm screws. The parts are in the original listing under the original cage.

@@RockyTop_BC hull section.

@@RockyTop_BC i dint check all files will do that now. Thanks

@@BlueTeamHFCreality advertises a 235 x 235 bed plate. I have been using the original Ender3 as a template for the last four years. The bed plate in the original slicers is 235x235. For some reason they changed it on the Ender3 version 2. The bed plate is now 220x220. A Google search shows people fixing this by putting the settings in the slicer back to 235x235 with nozzle offset X=8mm and Y=8.5mm 3dpadvisor.com/blog/ender-3-v2-bed-size/ I am sorry, This is the only fix I see for the hull. I will update a warning in the Glade Runner Listing. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

Good idea. On the plus side the tighter they were the better they will be in the end. If they stay tight you can use a little grease on them.

Thank you. I enjoy the puzzles in designing. In your slicer you can automatically pause the print at any set level. You pause the print at the height just above the point you want the color change. When it pauses you change the color and then resume.

@@RockyTop_BC Thanks, I'll give that a try and see how it does.

Cogged belts are great with 3D printed parts. They spread the stress over half the teeth on any given gear. Unfortunately they also create heat. The high RPM tends to melt the gears. Several people have tried this with the 540 high RPM options. It is OK for short boosts of speed but melts the gears with prolonged high speed runs. The C transmission gets away with the speed because of the low RPM motor. The good news is that a new transmission option with metal gears will be coming out in March… Message me on Printables if you would like to get the parts and parts list early. An assembly video is not available yet.

Ah ok,​@RockyTop_BC , I literally just came in from testing my 1000kv b transmission. I will be looking forward to the new transmission. Thanks so much for your awesome work and for making it available. Super Fun project!!!

Strange. I found the same brand that I have been using but only in .3mm. It should work fine though. www.amazon.com/70191-Clear-Pla-Plate-0-3mm-Tamiya/dp/B000CF48OC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2Q7BXKNRUZQHT&keywords=pla+plate+.4&qid=1708146933&sprefix=pla+plate+.4%2Caps%2C283&sr=8-2

@@RockyTop_BC Wow, Thanks a lot for the link!

Thanks, Sorry no., Changing the scale would keep the store bought parts that you cant scale from fitting. The 7inch terminator action figures seem to fit. See pictures in the listing on printables,com www.printables.com/model/323433-thumper-18-scale-rc-car-cj7-rock-crawler-by-blackc

Thanks Ha ha. ... I HATE boats!! Yet I have a lot of good memories on airboats as a kid and it was fun to design. In my mind an airboat should not be stable, yet they are. I did a deep dive on the physics and it makes sense now. As a challenge I just had to design one.

I have both. The narrow tires are on the red Jeep. The wide tires are on the yellow Jeep in the video. If your tires are 1.75 wide they are the narrow tires. I personally like the narrow tires better.

One thing that might be giving you problems is the internal lockers. You have to work the tire bead in the small space between the locker and the wheel. I just checked the files and they should be good. They do fit tight and you have to walk them in. Just make sure the bead is going in as you tighten them.

@@RockyTop_BC Thanks, I'll give that a try.

@@RockyTop_BC I managed to get the Wide parts to work and get about a 3.5mm space between the front and back using the Wide Wheel Locker. There was no way I could do that with the Narrow parts.. I just couldn't squeeze them together tight enough and try and get the bead in the groove.

Thank You!

The hardware list is in the two listings on Printables com The project is divided in two listings. The Jeep chassis and the motor/transmission. Chassis www.printables.com/model/323433-thumper-18-scale-rc-car-cj7-rock-crawler-by-blackc Motor/Transmission www.printables.com/model/356820-thumpers-and-morrigans-transmission-shop-for-18-sc

@@RockyTop_BC Perfect. That sounds great. Thanks for posting this project for free. Not a lot of cool projects are free. I am going to build one with my grandpa this summer. Also, do you have any recommendations for controllers to use? If so, the feedback would be very much appreciated. Again thank you!

@@peyton546 Thank you. I am a life long Futaba user that switched to Spektrum. Now I would rather use the cheapest Spektrum radio over any other product. If you can afford it I would get the DX5C. If not DX3. If that is too much I would probably switch to Radio Link. They work OK and are quite economical. You get a lot of options for little money. I prefer Spektrum because they just work and they work well.

The models are mostly designed for either style. The only exceptions I can think of is on the 4250 motor version when attaching the motor gear to the 5mm flange. The socket head of the M3 x 4mm screw Is used as a peg to turn the gear. Second the M2 x 4mm screws in the axle hubs are also socket style. The head is used to stop the axle pin from spinning. I personally prefer the button head on the M3 and the socket head on the M2.

Thanks, It is my favorite. It is a lot more capable than the CJ-7 "Thumper"