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You cut all your strips with 60° angles making them parallelograms / /. You fence will most likely be set to the width of your gang of boards, but it is always best to.measure off your pieces. You'll be cutting off both sides of your strips removing /| and removing |/ so you should end up with a | | shape again.

69 degrees or 60??

60° edited for clarity

Sorry, another dumb question I hope you can answer: When making your 90 degree cuts, do you strictly do 1 inch or do you vary the distance in order to square? I finally got one finished but it’s a bit off. Still looks okay for amateur.

@@verb8m1 you'll want to make that 90 degree cut so it looks like the two wood species meet at a point

Hi Ken when you make your 60° cuts you want them to be the width of your center board. So if your glued stack is .5inch-1inch-.5inch you would want to cut 1 inch wide strips and then turn them to cut them square at 90. Sorry for any confusion. It's been a number of years since I made this video so I may have to go back to make a note. If you've cut them at 2" already you can cut them in half. You may end just shy of 1" depending on your blade kerf but it shouldn't impact the final product.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop thank you. Yes, you made a point of placing the wood correctly but no mention of the width to cut at 90!! Just said make initial cut the width of the gang of boards which is 2inches. Is that still correct?

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop thank you so much for your reply by the way

I think the width of the gang of boards is incorrect. At 1:40 in the video I've already cut the initial strips and then rotated the 90° to make the 90° cuts. They look more like 1" than 2" which would have matched the center board width, not the gang of board width. For the 90° cuts your squaring off the parallelograms turning them into rectangles. This exact measurement may vary a bit but essentially you want the cut to make the side pieces triangles. Cutting right where your two wood species touch. If you take a look at 2:10 you can see it looks like the walnut looks like / / so you want to make your vertical cuts like |//|

I think my originally intention for the cut the width of the gang of boards was for the 90°s was to square the pieces back up.

Good afternoon. That was actually just a window painting at a local business that I took a picture in front of.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop It was very nice. Too bad you didn't get a full shot of it. I'm working on a Grinch similar to yours right now. I thought I'd give it a try.

Afternoon Angie, the templates are all made to size so printing without scaling is what is important. Large format printers use rolls of paper so as long as you choose the correct width you should be fine. The alternative would be to print them on individual pages printer paper and tape/assemble/cut the template at home.

Hi Paola. I used a X-Acto knife to score the lines through the paper. Then I traced them with sharpie between each layer of paint so I didn't lose them. After I got all the color paint how I wanted it I used a black acrylic paint for all the lines.

Good evening Tina I resent the order details to the email address you used during your purchase. This should include the link to download. Please let me know if you have any issues and I can email them manually.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop I’m so sorry to keep bugging you. They still have not arrived. Maybe I made an error with my address?

@@tinakodanko3632 good afternoon Tina. I just sent you an email directly. Please let me know if you receive it.

Hi Jennifer. Ultimately there's not a major difference. This one was made using maple plywood as it has a very nice uniform surface for paint.

Awesome Erin! I'm glad it worked out for you guys. My neighbors always love it.

I shoot Easton carbon one shafts and have noticed not abnormal wear or tear.

I used 3/4 on this one to make it a bit more durable, but 1/2 would work.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop I meant how wide is the plywood? Is 2 feet wide enough? Thank you

Thank you for your interest please try going to olmsteadworkshop.com/shop/ to see all available plans

Thanks for the interest Scott Family. I have the Grinch and other templates available on my website olmsteadworkshop.com/shop/

After cutting your 60° parallelograms, and rotating your pieces at 1:45 the blade should be set back to 90° to square your cuts. You're then cutting off the tips of the parallelograms. The shot at 2:10 shows all my cut pieces. The walnut, and cherry still look like parallelograms with the maple looking like triangles. Together they make a square. I hope this clears it up.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop thank you so much for trying to help my denseness I really appreciate it. I looked at mtmwood that you referenced. Using it I was able to salvage my pieces by cutting the parallelograms narrower, roughly 1”. Everything else the same. The maple pieces at .5” wide now on the sides, 60* & 2” total outside didn’t allow the 90* cut to make the maple triangles like yours at 2:10. By cutting the parallelogram narrower I got essentially squares like yours. ??? I must have got lost in the weeds somewhere but all good in the end. Thank you again for your video & guidance.

Thank you for this video. I’m having a similar issue at this point I cut the parallelograms down to stack thickness. When I go to bring them back to square I am cutting 1/3 into the walnut. It looked like your just barely. I don’t get it. I’m 1/2”,1”,1/2”. Cut at 60. Any thoughts? Thank you.

Well Laufield that's what's great about woodworking, art, and decorating. Everyone has different likes and dislikes. I've really enjoyed all the pictures people have sent me of their displays whether they're simple like my demonstration, or complicated. Thank you for your input and I hope you have a great rest of your year.

Seems as though you have more in common with this so-called "lazy" Christmas display than you realize there, ole' Laufield 😉😉 Merry Christmas!

Hi Frank thanks for stopping by the channel. This would be a great father and son project. I have the plans available in my shop as well as a build article olmsteadworkshop.com/shop/

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop ok thank you if I order the plans about how would it take shipping to California

Hi Frank the template is an instant digital download so you will receive a couple different file formats facing left and right. They can be printed full-sized at an local copy shop with wide format printing capabilities, or instructions for printing and assembling at home on multiple sheets of standard printer paper are included.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop Thank You

Hi Myrna. You should have received an email immediately after checkout with download links for your template. I also sent you an additional email containing a coupon code on November 10th for the Max template since you originally got 2 grinches instead of a Grinch and a Max. Please followup with me at contact@olmsteadworkshop.com if you have trouble finding them and I can resend them.

Omg! Lol thank you for being patient with me but I’m a little confused.😂 It’s not you, it’s me I’m laughing at. I did receive an email immediately after paying. I’m just really bad with technology and had no idea I was supposed to download links for my template. Does that mean I have to print it out myself? I don’t know how to do that. I don’t know why I was under the impression that the templates would be mailed to my home.

@@MrsDreamer1 no worries Myrna we could all use a little help sometimes especially this year. You have a couple options for printing. You can print it full-sized in one piece at a copy center like fedex/Kinko's, or included in the download are instructions to print it out at home on multiple standard printer pages that can be taped together to make the full-sized. If you need any further assistance please don't hesitate to email.

Lol I’m so embarrassed but I have another dumb question.... Do I show kinkos my email code? How will they know what to print out?

Myrna you would need to provide them with the PDF file so you could save it to a thumbdrive. Please feel free to email my at contact@olmsteadworkshop.com if you have any further questions.

Thank you Myrna! I just sent you an email with a coupon code you can use to Download the Grinch's Dog Max.

Where do you order the template from

@@adanmolina9293 the link to the template is in the video description, or can be found here olmsteadworkshop.com/product/grinch-christmas-cutout/

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop do you also have a "Cindy Lou Who" template by chance?

Thank for stopping by the channel@@annetteroy7905 I have Max and Cindy Lou in two different sizes now in the shop olmsteadworkshop.com/product-category/templates/

Those are all great tips Rob. When I first shared this video there was a lot of discussion on mixing short and long grain and whether or not it would lead to splitting. Like you I like the decorative contrast. Since this video I've added a drum sander to the arsenal which is much much kinder to the end grain. I'm glad you liked it. I don't post videos as often as I'd like but I try to make them entertaining and informative.

Fedex Kinkos does it, doesn't cost much either

I know not everyone’s got this, but I’m gonna make this and use a projector and outline it, then cut.

Staples took me 10 minutes

Thanks Maggie. I'm still learning a lot myself, but I like to show people that you don't need to have the fanciest shop to get some amazing results.

The end grain needs to have a piece of EDGE grain next to it, to support those grains as it goes through the planer. Otherwise, the planer will just tear the edge grain wood away from the remainder of the cutting board.

Yes, but the board is subject to cracking because the grain direction is not all uniform, so expansion forces won’t be uniform. Thanks for the video!

Thanks Caitlyn I'm glad you liked this project as it was a lot of fun to make, and was a big hit with my neighbors last year. I do have the template available as a digital download in my store olmsteadworkshop.com/product/grinch-christmas-cutout/

do you happen to have a "Cindy Lou Who" template too?

The 2 different angles you mention are really the same thing. Just measured from different points. 60* is measured from the table and 30* is measured from the point where the blade is at 90.

Thank you Roc. I know how tough it can be sometimes to try and teach yourself a new skill so I try to make it easy to follow, and show different techniques when possible. I have some more videos in the works so be sure to stay tuned!

Hey Bob typically I get mine from a hardwood dealer. I have gotten 12/4 Walnut which is about 3" thick there before. You'll save money and have greater selection over any traditional big box stores or Rockler. In southern California I use San Marcos hardwood co.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop ok thanks, the hard wood place nearest me don't have that thick of boards

@@bobhoffman8717 the hard wood dealer I use is a good 45 minute drive from me. Not always convenient, but greater selection and prices. I drive a subaru outback so I'm usually strapping lumber to the roof rack to get it home.

I had the same issue that you did a while back - hard to find nice dark walnut or nice red cherry in that thickness. First, I milled all my lumber (maple, cherry, and walnut) to 3/4" and then I laminated two pieces of walnut together and two pieces of cherry together. The important thing is the ratio - the maple has to be half thickness of the cherry or walnut.

Thanks for the subscription Bob. You could do it like that, but I'm not sure how efficient your wood use would be. Typically how I've seen people do bowls with this pattern is they rip their rhombuses and glue up a bunch of individual groups too make hexagons what ever size they need to turn and then glue them all up using a band clamp.

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop thanks for getting back to me so fast!. Yeah I would waste a lot of wood not I tried the way u suggested, my saw was off, so never did work out. Just wondering if it would work stacking them up. Thanks

Thanks Sumo! Walnut doesn't get enough credit for its figure compared maple and cherry, but I really liked how the wave in this board looked with the lighter sap wood.

The very first cut was approximately an 1/8 just to maximize the amount cuts I was getting out of the boards. When cutting the first set of strips they should the width of the thickness of your glue up. What are you seeing in SketchUp?

@@TheOlmsteadWorkshop Thanks for the reply! Yeah sorry, i meant the width of the strips. So blde set to 60 degrees and distance from fence to blade at table surface is 2 inches with your glue up? In sketchup with the 2 inch strips the second cut to square up the rhombus doesnt work. it cuts into your mid layer. It works out to make the pattern if you have the width of strips at 1 inch

I didn't give an exact measurement to square the rhombus as it can depend on a few factors such as the thickness of the blade kerf, and the precision of the milling and gluing of your boards. If you take a look at 2:13 in the video not all of mine are exactly perfect 😅. The finished impact is the corner of a cube might not meet exactly lined up at a corner of the one next to it, but when cutting and organizing your strips for the final glue up any small imperfections are scattered as strips are flipped and rotated. The video thumbnail is the exact boards I built in this video if you want to try and spy some imperfections 😉

Is is supposed to be a roumbos?

Thanks clutions for the feedback. I am working on getting more content up in the near future, and on a more regular basis so please stay tuned.

This was done on some mild steel hairpin legs which weren't heat treated. Getting your part hotter than it was when it was originally tempered would ruin the heat treatment.

Thanks Cody I'm glad you enjoyed it. I've been working on getting my website up to speed with build articles and plans so stay tuned for more content.

Thank you. Be sure to subscribe as I'm going to be working getting more videos out on the channel.