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I am having trouble feeling the pin drop in? any suggestions of what else I could look for to inital line up cylinders?

Why don't you upgrade your demo with the information provided in the paragraph at the bottom of your instruction sheet. Provides 28 degree max advance. (saving on rod bearings and saving on Bendix problems). So easy.

When I'm sitting in the nursing home smiling my ass off it's not going to be from thinking about working on cars.... Cupcakes ho-hos and hookers...

That looks like more than. 020 😇🙏

Very smart design

so is it ok to back up? or should you go around again

😂😂

Dónde se consigue esa erramienta?

The idiot here keeps calling a nut a bolt? No thanks stupid I don't want to see if channel.. 🇺🇸

Can you buy just the advance parts without timing tool? Because I just ordered the timing tool and won't need two.

I've used this tool works very well, but not perfect like using a timing light. Actual base timing for Model A engine is 5 degrees retarded. It's hard to get all the slack out of the cam/disturbor drive system.

Looks like the NuRex stuff is good stuff.

I bought one and plan to install in my model B engine, I will update you when I do.

So how many have you sold in the last seven years? Do they perform as expected? I don't hear of many who use this.

Quick question: I bought one of your wrenches and am wondering if it sets the timing as Ford recommends in the service bulletins so that the ignition is set how it would be with the retard lever down 1-3 clicks?? Resulting in a ignition curve of 10-12 degrees ATDC @ full retard/28-30 degrees BTDC @ full advance?? Or, should we be setting the timing with the spark lever down 1-3 notches while using the directions on your wrench??

Enjoyed this video. I have always timed my model a with the lever all the way up. Does it make a difference if you have a5.5 or 6.0 head?

What do you do with the other wire that attached to the generator that goes to the light switch housing?

Almost need a ammeter with a higher reading

Thank you, I needed that.

Every Model A owner should get one of the Nu-Rex timing wrenches. They're inexpensive and they make timing your car simple.

This was great. Just what I needed. Love the new modern points! Thanks again.

Muchas gracias por subir este video traducido. Es una gran ayuda. Un saludo

My model A its a negative ground version. is it possble to install this alternator?

good night, my name is Ricardo, I have a ford A year 29 I live in Campinas S.P Brazil I'm in doubt, can you help me? I need to check the point of the car's engine, remove the screw from the command cover and place the end of the screw in the hole in the command gear, which is the top dead center (I only know so far, and the rest) you can help me ? I watched your video but as I don't speak English, I didn't understand, you can explain here, then I use google translator, thank you very much

This is an interesting video on adding an automatic mechanical advance to a Ford Model A distributor so that you no longer need to use the spark advance lever.

Sure wish someone made a modern dual output generator or alternator for my 1927 Buick that would look stock but give me a dual output 6v and 12v!!

Thanks for sharing. Very good video. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Great Video! Looks like a very, very handy tool for A drivers of which i happen to be one of (daily driver). Just bought one from Mac's. Thanks!

If you don't use the original style condensers with the lower plate, the ignition cable with bend the connection tab and cause it to short to the distributor case. There was a reason Ford made the condenser fit the way he did. Easily fixed with this setup, just use a stock condenser and remove the cheap modern condenser on the upper plate. Works fine even with the "modern" points used on your upper plate.

Are there plans to make units to fit other antique vehicles ? It would be a nice upgrade for lots of other 6 volt negative ground units

Just ordered the tool. And I installed the new points and bottom plate upgrade from you yesterday. Cant wait to get my 31 fired up for the first time in a few years!

Will this work with a 32 model b 4 cylinder?

Would this work on the 32 model b or is it a different set up?

I've been there & done that with these old cars & although & bought all the gear for the old points /coil ignition system, the only thing I used was the timing gauge on the front cover. I ditched everything & put an FSI electronic distributor on my Model A & never looked back. It looks the same, gets rid of all this rubbish, including the advance & retard lever & makes my 1931 Briggs absolutely hum. Get into the 21st. century with some modern improvements to an 88 year old car.

If the linkage controls ONLY the plate with the points(or pickup,in this case),and the real adjustment is only affecting the lobe(or reluctor,in this case),wasnt making sure the retarding of the points plate a mute point?SINCE ITS NOT AFFECTING THE RELATION OF LOBES-TO-SHAFT,no matter where the plate is with engine off?I could see it making a difference if you were checking for spark at coil wire with key on.

Ok, I installed the Nu-Rex 6v alternator in my Ford Model A "as instructed". When I started the car, the Amp Gauge "pegged' past 20 Amps as expected (excited) BUT, then I heard a "whistle" each time I goosed the throttle. I didn't think that was a good thing so I shut it off. What do you think it is???? Is it normal and does it go away? How often do you answer these questions? I asked one a couple of weeks ago and have since deleted it after I figured it out.

Is this IGNITION ELECTRONIC ? in Ford Model A 1929 ? and a alternator 6V ?

How does one remove the pulley? Is it threaded on the shaft? If so, holding the shaft with an Allen wrench should one be able to remove the pulley with a spanner wrench. Is there lock tite on the threads? Is it a normal right hand thread or left hand threaded shaft?

What's the reason for lining up the cam tool with the rear spark plug contact on the distributor body? As long as the points are open on a raised lobe of the cam with the timing set properly, what difference does it make which lobe you use?

Thanks for the explanation and for this amazing tool. It's a most have tool in a Model A.

Don't talk to me about using those modern style Ford points. I've got lots of experience with them in my Model A and had them lose their gap and close up while on the road. Then the car just quits. What a nightmare that was on the freeway. And those points are hard to gap as well. So never again for me, thanks. I'll stay with the originals as long as I have a source for them, at least.

Outstanding and simple....the best unit ever used!!

How many amps on that alternator? The alternator I installed used both wires from my generator. Someone told me you should change the ammeter as well to a 50 amp ammeter. But I haven't had any problems using the original 20 amp meter. I'd like to retain it for the original look anyhow.

my car starts but will not run with out the choke then die

Very good video, this adjustment decreases and increases the contact between rotor and shaft improves contact, this tool where you can buy.

it looks like you put an alternator on that puppy

great stuff.i ordered your timing wrench.keep these great videos coming.thanks

I set my timing on my Model A and it started and ran great! But after bout 4 to 5 tarts and drives the car gets out of timing. I tighten the cam screw as tight as I can, is there a reason it's getting out f time?

Thanks for the in depth tutorial on your 6 volt Nu-Rex Alternator installation. This seems to be a wise move for a Model A since an alternator typically provides greater amperage at a lower engine rpm than would be the case with the factory installed generator.