Well, like I’m sure a lot of other people have been. I’ve been using a homemade version and thought I was special. But for that price, there will be one in my toolbox. Been using my DIY vacuum pot for woodworking and was keeping it a secret lol by the way, I love your channel so much high-quality information thanks. Please keep it coming.
i use a similar device with a pump and a container that came with my vacuum sealer.. put the shocks in there and vacuum the conainer and have all bubbles out.. this is nice that you can see through it.
Oh yeah! The best tool in my arsenal was one I actually thought of as a one-trick pony. I mean… it is but the tool has more than exceeded my expectations and now, I don’t feel bad at all for investing in one. Granted, if you only have maybe one or two chassis, you may not justify the purchase but I’m currently at four chassis (three drift, one touring car, all 1/10) and the fact that I can quickly rebuild them all with this tool has been amazing. Get a shock bleeding system and it will pay for itself in no time. I have the Tamiya one (which is the same as the Ride) but any will do fine. EDIT: West Coast RC Works has an electric vacuum for the Tamiya/RIDE bleeders but I’ve only ever seen them for sale at TQ RC Racing.
You can get vacuum food boxes for less than ten bucks and fabricate the shock holders yourself. I could see myself using this thing for shocks, and on a diff I’m filling for the first time without a weight spec from the mfg. If I have a weight spec for the diff, I simply fill up to that and close the lid. Any air left inside is supposed to be there and it doesn’t matter if it’s mixed with the oil or not - it will be.
It’s basically just a Tupperware box with a one-way valve on the lid. You put food inside (or in my case, shocks) and suck out the air with a pump. Yes, there’s a weight spec for the diffs in various AE manuals (e.g. the B74.2j and it says how much a diff should weigh with the fluid. No need to eyeball the level or chase out bubbles, just put enough fluid inside to meet the weight spec and close the lid.
Since there is no ifp in rc shocks, it's pointless to degass the fluid. It will mix the air left in the shock back into the oil. RC shocks are not complex enough (nor sealed enough) to need this tool.
That is a fair point - not all shock have "IFP"s or Internal Floating Pistons, but all the shocks I run have an internal bladder, which is a type of flexible IFP. Many shocks are "emulsion" style and they DO have air deliberately mixed in.
@WRIGHT-GARAGE The first time you smack a square hit i guarantee you air is pulled into the shock at the lower seal head. You need a pressurized shock to maintain consistency.
How can you guarantee that? Unless you have a clear shock body and a high speed camera. If you are just taking off the top and looking inside you’d have no way of knowing where the air came from. It was probably already there because you didn’t vacuum pump it 😂 Or a bad bleed. Plus bladder shocks gain pressure as the shock compresses so it is pressurized. Hopefully your seals work better than that. You could be right but I’m going to need a little more evidence.
Pointless on an emulsion shock and not convinced it has a noticeable effect on bladder shocks - at least not from personal experience. Even bladder shocks are going to have air, even if you do use the pump. Besides, I dont think 99%of people will notice a difference. Definitely a time saver though 👍
Man I have no idea how drav-tech got so popular they are inconvenient in almost every way possible. Zip tie to fit anything. Not very smooth, have to disassemble to change springs. Why are they popular again?
They are very versatile for custom builds. Lots of options. Ultralight springs. They work awesome if you follow normal assembly techniques. Fairly priced and tons of colors. Great company and great customer service. Not sure what there is to dislike. Plus you can take off the spring if you are clever. ua-cam.com/users/shortsLFdbIvrj3OM?feature=share
Super cool. Thanks! Except now I have a bunch of shocks to unmount and rebleed. 😂
Only if you want to win 😂
Never knew or thought of doing this. Great idea. I might have to make one now.
It's super useful to do it this way.
😂 was using these forever with 1\10 scale onroad racing. Those things are awesome
I think it’s been around a long time!
Never knew there was such a thing. Cool stuff! Thanks!
You bet! Thanks for checking out the channel.
@BoomslangSuss Loving the content! I'd like to see you do one on shock length and how to determine the ideal setup, if there is one. 😜👍
Thank you! This video might help for at least one aspect on shock length.
Can you have TOO much Articulation?
ua-cam.com/video/BvoXOOFaMdQ/v-deo.html
Subbed to your channel 🤘🏻 thanx for the info
Glad you're here!
Well, like I’m sure a lot of other people have been. I’ve been using a homemade version and thought I was special. But for that price, there will be one in my toolbox.
Been using my DIY vacuum pot for woodworking and was keeping it a secret lol by the way, I love your channel so much high-quality information thanks. Please keep it coming.
Thanks for the kind words!
i use a similar device with a pump and a container that came with my vacuum sealer.. put the shocks in there and vacuum the conainer and have all bubbles out.. this is nice that you can see through it.
Oh nice.
@ keep up the tech videos. You give great info and more people should know this stuff.
Will do! Thank you. I’ve got plenty of ideas in the bank.
Oh yeah! The best tool in my arsenal was one I actually thought of as a one-trick pony. I mean… it is but the tool has more than exceeded my expectations and now, I don’t feel bad at all for investing in one. Granted, if you only have maybe one or two chassis, you may not justify the purchase but I’m currently at four chassis (three drift, one touring car, all 1/10) and the fact that I can quickly rebuild them all with this tool has been amazing.
Get a shock bleeding system and it will pay for itself in no time. I have the Tamiya one (which is the same as the Ride) but any will do fine.
EDIT: West Coast RC Works has an electric vacuum for the Tamiya/RIDE bleeders but I’ve only ever seen them for sale at TQ RC Racing.
I second that.
“This sort of thing ain’t my bag baby”
…one book titled “this sort of this IS my bag, baby” written by one Austin Powers
You can get vacuum food boxes for less than ten bucks and fabricate the shock holders yourself.
I could see myself using this thing for shocks, and on a diff I’m filling for the first time without a weight spec from the mfg. If I have a weight spec for the diff, I simply fill up to that and close the lid. Any air left inside is supposed to be there and it doesn’t matter if it’s mixed with the oil or not - it will be.
What is a vacuum food box? Are you talking about a mass weight spec?
It’s basically just a Tupperware box with a one-way valve on the lid. You put food inside (or in my case, shocks) and suck out the air with a pump.
Yes, there’s a weight spec for the diffs in various AE manuals (e.g. the B74.2j and it says how much a diff should weigh with the fluid. No need to eyeball the level or chase out bubbles, just put enough fluid inside to meet the weight spec and close the lid.
Since there is no ifp in rc shocks, it's pointless to degass the fluid. It will mix the air left in the shock back into the oil. RC shocks are not complex enough (nor sealed enough) to need this tool.
Thats great for an emulsion build. But bladder builds have no air if built right.
Even with an emulsion shock, you want the amount of air inside the shock to be consistent. A vacuum pump could be helpful in achieving that.
That is a fair point - not all shock have "IFP"s or Internal Floating Pistons, but all the shocks I run have an internal bladder, which is a type of flexible IFP. Many shocks are "emulsion" style and they DO have air deliberately mixed in.
@WRIGHT-GARAGE The first time you smack a square hit i guarantee you air is pulled into the shock at the lower seal head. You need a pressurized shock to maintain consistency.
How can you guarantee that? Unless you have a clear shock body and a high speed camera. If you are just taking off the top and looking inside you’d have no way of knowing where the air came from. It was probably already there because you didn’t vacuum pump it 😂 Or a bad bleed. Plus bladder shocks gain pressure as the shock compresses so it is pressurized. Hopefully your seals work better than that.
You could be right but I’m going to need a little more evidence.
Pointless on an emulsion shock and not convinced it has a noticeable effect on bladder shocks - at least not from personal experience. Even bladder shocks are going to have air, even if you do use the pump. Besides, I dont think 99%of people will notice a difference. Definitely a time saver though 👍
Maybe YOU can't feel it Jerry, but...:)
@@BoomslangSuss Bahaha, you might have a point! 😉
😂
Man I have no idea how drav-tech got so popular they are inconvenient in almost every way possible. Zip tie to fit anything. Not very smooth, have to disassemble to change springs. Why are they popular again?
They are very versatile for custom builds. Lots of options. Ultralight springs. They work awesome if you follow normal assembly techniques. Fairly priced and tons of colors. Great company and great customer service. Not sure what there is to dislike. Plus you can take off the spring if you are clever.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsLFdbIvrj3OM?feature=share